From the Sector

The Biden administration’s Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel counteract China’s unfair trade advantages and give U.S. manufactures a chance to compete, two key American textile manufacturing groups told the Biden administration. Removing tariffs, the associations said, would reward China, put U.S. manufacturers at a competitive disadvantage and do nothing to reduce inflation.

In a formal submission to the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) office, which is conducting a four-year statutory review of the tariffs, the associations, representing the entirety of the U.S. textile production chain, expressed strong support for the continuation of current Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel imports from China and outlined the effectiveness of U.S. tariff actions.

“In some cases, such as on finished apparel, the tariffs have worked to partially offset and counteract China’s unfair trade advantages,” the groups said. “The tariffs on finished textile and apparel items are giving U.S. manufacturers the chance to compete, and we are seeing encouraging investment and growth in moving some production and souring from China back to the Western Hemisphere.”

“The CAFTA-DR [Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement] region has seen more than $1 billion in new textile and apparel investment this year, for example, which is historic and due to the textile and apparel rules negotiated under the agreement and sourcing shifts from China,” they added. “This investment and growing U.S. imports from the Western Hemisphere is attributable in part to the 301 tariffs on finished apparel.  The tariffs on finished items in our sector are broadly supported by textile/apparel producers in the hemispheric co-production chain, and it is essential that they remain in place, absent China reforming its practices.”

The submission was filed by the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the U.S. Industrial and Narrow Fabrics Institute (USINFI), a division of the Advanced Textiles Association (AFA).

The groups have long advocated for a fair, transparent process to remove tariffs on textile machinery, certain chemicals and dyes and limited textile inputs that cannot be sourced domestically to help U.S. manufacturers compete against China.

They also stressed that lifting the tariffs on finished textiles and apparel products from China “will solidify their global dominance in this sector for generations to come and reward their abusive behaviors, exacerbate the migration crisis, hurt domestic manufacturers and workers, undermine our ability to recalibrate essential PPE supply chains, and blunt the positive supply chains shifts and investments in the Western Hemisphere that are happening.” They added it would “do nothing to solve the inflation crisis facing U.S. consumers and manufacturers right now.”

See the full submission here.

• adidas unveils its SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection – an apparel range fit for performance
• Inspired by plants and florals, the collection features bold prints, vibrant colorways and a moiré effect textile
• The adidas SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13 2023

adidas launches its new SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection, a range of performance apparel featuring striking colorful prints, inspired by plant life and nature. Select pieces feature a contrast-color mesh layering that when in motion creates a moiré effect and helps to mask the player’s movements and positioning on court.

With the help of innovation, adidas is seeing possibilities in turning towards new resources. For these products adidas turned to a greenhouse gas technology. It uses captured industrial emissions as a new material feedstock. CO₂ is fermented into ethanol which constitutes 30% by weight of a polyester yarn. adidas knitted this yarn into various products and now this carbon-based ethanol makes up a minimum of 15% by weight of these garments.

In addition, the collection also utilizes HEAT.RDY and Aeroready technologies. HEAT.RDY technology is designed to maximize airflow and optimize sweat distribution, while AEROREADY is powered by moisture-wicking fabric that absorbs sweat quickly for a dry feeling, helping players to move freely and comfortably on court.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be premiered on court by adidas athletes, including Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Garbiñe Muguruza, Qiang Wang and Maria Sakkari.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13.

ANDRITZ has organized a customer day fully dedicated to the absorbent hygiene products value chain on November 09, 2022. This event took place at the ANDRITZ Diatec premises in Pescara, Italy, with a variety of key players from the nonwovens industry coming from all over Europe and beyond.

At this event, attendees benefited from live demonstrations of converting lines, market and nonwoven production insights, a panel discussion on sustainability, and networking opportunities, including:

• Recent market situation, trends, and some food for thoughts
• Technology insights for nonwoven roll-good production: Spunjet Soft, Air-Through Bonding, and Spunlace
• Company tour with live demonstration of converting lines
• Panel discussion on sustainability accompanied by important industry players around the value chain

• Potential loss of competitiveness, caused by the EU’s inaction of the energy crisis, and Chinese and US subsidies to domestic industry

Following yesterday’s European Council summit and its conclusions on the measures to tackle the energy crisis, the European textiles industry is extremely concerned about the fast loss of competitiveness of Europe and demands urgent action to save the industry.

The chain of factors determining this sharp decline in competitiveness is twofold. First, the energy cost in Europe is more than 6 times higher than in the US, China, and neighbouring countries. This factor alone has almost erased the business case for producing in the EU. At present, many textiles and clothing companies are producing at net loss or have shut down production. The industrial conditions have worsened in such a way that there is no business case to invest in Europe or buy products produced or processed in the EU. It is only the sense of responsibility of the entrepreneurs towards the European society that is keeping the plants and production running.

Secondly, while the EU is passive and extremely slow in articulating a credible and effective response to the energy crisis, the main international competitors and trade partners (China, India and the US respectively) have developed comprehensive state-aid frameworks for their domestic industry despite not being affected by this crisis at all. The latest example is the 369-billion-dollar scheme of the Inflation Reduction Act rolled out by the Biden administration.

Recent trade data  already indicate a loss of global competitiveness: imports to the EU have grown tremendously in 2022 (+35% year-to-date). It is also evident that the surge in imports goes in parallel with the surge of natural gas price. It is expected that energy prices will remain high and volatile, opening the door for imports to gain substantial market shares in the EU.

The chart indicates the development of the Title Transfer Facility (TTF) until September 2022 since Eurostat data for Q4 2022 has not been published yet. Euratex is aware that the market situation has eased somewhat since in the past months, but the crisis remains because gas prices are still extremely high in comparison to last year. This suggests that the current loss of competitiveness of the EU manufacturing will not be recovered even with lower energy prices, unless measures are taken to correct the unlevel playing field on which the EU industry has to operate in the international markets. Only with an ambitious and comprehensive relaunch plan at EU level, Europe will be able to restore its credibility as a global manufacturing powerhouse and investments.

If the status quo is maintained, not only the EU will not be able to recover its competitive position on the global business stage, but it will also fail its plans to reach zero-net emissions and achieve circularity. It is evident that these ambitions - that the industry is passionately supporting - need massive capital investments. However, in the current scenario an investments diversion can only be expected to markets where governments are actively supporting those investments and energy costs are much lower – regardless of their fossil- or non-fossil origin.

The European textiles industry – the whole value chain, from fibres, nonwoven, to fabrics, clothing manufacturers - are facing unprecedented pressure deriving from the current geopolitical situation, the new macroeconomic conditions and unfair competition from third states. The situation is going to worsen if no emergency action is taken, especially because a recession is expected in the coming months.

The main structural component of the EU manufacturing are SMEs: these are economic actors that are particularly exposed to the current crisis as they do not have the financial leverage to absorb the impact of energy prices for much longer. Urgent EU action is needed to ensure their survival.

EURATEX calls on the EU political leaders in the Commission, in the European Council and in the national capitals to:

1. Raise the ambition and adopt a comprehensive approach at EU level: energy, state-aid and trade policy must be brought together in a single strategy with concrete emergency solutions and with a clear SME dimension;
    
2. Let all hesitations aside and adopt a meaningful price cap on natural gas wholesales, that should be ideally no higher than 80 euro/MWh. In parallel, it should also be ensured that electricity prices are brought to a sustainable price level;
    
3. Change the European posture on state-aid, even temporarily. An ambitious plan of investments and state-aid in green technologies to support the industrial transition should be rolled out.

Such a plan, however, should not be conceived as a retaliation against our most necessary and like-minded trade partners. Access to finance and markets must be safeguarded for all those actors who are capable and willing to invest in Europe, on the basis of reciprocity. In   these challenging times for geopolitical stability, ensuring strong trade ties with our traditional allies and partners is of utmost importance. The roll-out of an investment and state aid plan should not interfere, but rather support, the dialogue with the US (and other partners) and the deepening of our trade and investment partnership. Such a dialogue should be accelerated in the context of the TTC as well as at WTO level.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry convened 500 absorbent hygiene and personal care professionals from 30 countries and throughout the supply chain to participate in the eighth edition of Hygienix™ – the premier event for absorbent hygiene & personal care markets – held in New Orleans, Louisiana, Nov. 14-17.

The program kicked off with recycling approaches for disposable absorbent hygiene waste, followed by business impacts of period product legislation and regulation, new menstrual products, consumer trends, and three finalist presentations for the 2022 Hygienix Innovation Award™.

The event also included presentations from 18 other industry experts along with 13 hours of scheduled face-to-face networking, and 50 tabletop display exhibits and banquet receptions on Tuesday and Wednesday nights.

One highlight of the event was the presentation of INDA’s prestigious Hygienix Innovation Award™ to Egal Pads for Pads on a Roll™ a wrapped super-thin absorbent period pad that dispenses like toilet paper in public bathroom stalls. The product aims to prevent the personal embarrassment of not having a menstrual product when needed.

INDA President Tony Fragnito presented the 2022 INDA Lifetime Service Award to Dave Rousse, INDA President Emeritus, for his long-established service to the nonwovens industry and INDA. Rousse led the acquisition of the INSIGHT conference, and combined the INDA Vision Conference to launch the Hygienix™ conference for the absorbent hygiene and personal care market in 2015, and initiated the purchase of INDA Media.

Hygienix™ 2023 will be held Nov 13-16, in New Orleans, Louisiana .

INDA’s 17th annual World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference is accepting abstracts through December 2, 2022, on innovative, inspiring, and informative wipe products, markets and technologies to be presented in Atlanta, GA, July 17-20, 2023.

Experts in the areas of dry and wet wipes, sustainability, end-use markets, substrate formation, raw materials and fibers, liquid ingredients, packaging, machinery, and market trends and data are encouraged to submit a brief abstract of one or two paragraphs detailing the relationship of their presentation to wipes or wipe manufacturing. Along with a brief abstract summary, professionals should also submit a speaker’s photo, and biography. Information may be submitted online via the WOW website before December 2nd.

Over 450 wipes business leaders are expected to convene at the Atlanta Marriott Marquis Hotel July 17-20, 2023 to hear premium content in market research, product innovations, sustainability issues, new materials and substrates for all wiping products and their components.

The last WOW event held in Chicago connected more than 450 participants from 18 countries representing the entire wipes supply chain to explore issues and advancements in the growing multibillion-dollar wipes sector. WOW is targeted exclusively for wipes brand owners, converters, manufacturers, and their entire supply chain.

The WOW Committee is developing content for a timely and relevant program that targets such areas as energy consumption, digitalization, global supply chain challenges, the plastics issue, ingredient transparencies, market intelligence, substrate developments, converting systems, material science, packaging, and circularity advances in personal and industrial wipes.

Training at the WOW 2023 Conference
The WIPES Academy, the industry’s first and only comprehensive wipes training for the entire supply chain, will occur prior to the conference start, July 17-18. Participants will gain a strong foundation of fundamental wipes knowledge, covering the basics of wipes design, manufacturing and applications, market trends, and opportunities in new product areas. At least two years of basic nonwoven fabrics knowledge or completion of the INDA Elementary Nonwovens Course are the recommended prerequisites.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) has launched an elastic variant of its flexible superabsorbers for modern wound dressings. These superabsorbers increase the comfort level for patients as well as enabling longer wear time, thus reducing the frequency of dressing changes. Freudenberg is debuting the elastic superabsorbers at this year’s Compamed in Düsseldorf, from November 14 – 17, 2022. Further highlights at the trade fair include components for more sustainable wound care, PU foams with directly applied silicone adhesives, and an innovative hydrophilic debridement foam.

Freudenberg uses a new technology to manufacture the elastic superabsorbers. Unlike other methods, this technology does not perforate or slit the material, thus achieving a high degree of consistent elasticity. Furthermore, the technology used by Freudenberg bonds the superabsorbent fibers more uniformly with the material, thus enhancing the integrity of this layer in the wound dressing.

“Our new elastic superabsorbers demonstrate yet again how Freudenberg components help increase comfort for patients, reduce the workload for nursing staff and lower healthcare costs. Our extensive technology platform and our innovative strength are the basis for this,” Dr. Henk Randau, SVP and General Manager Global Division Healthcare at Freudenberg Performance Materials, said.

RHEON LABS, a fast-growing materials technology company based in Battersea, London, has completed an extensive 6 month trial with FET, a world leader in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment. Backed by a £173,000 grant from Innovate UK for feasibility studies, RHEON LABS has further developed its RHEON™ technology, a reactive polymer that dynamically stiffens when subjected to force. The technology can control energy of any amplitude or frequency, from small vibrations to forces at ballistic-speeds and therefore has a wide range of applications.
 
This Innovate UK Smart Grant-backed project aims to develop a hyper viscoelastic fibre from RHEON™ which displays high strain-rate sensitive properties. Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive properties will be a world first. It will enable the creation of a 'breakthrough-generation' of stretch textiles that can actively absorb, dampen and control energy during movement, rather than simply acting as a spring.

For close-fitting activewear and sports bras, the ability to actively control muscle mass or soft tissue movement during exercise will be a game-changing advancement. It will allow brands to engineer garments that relax during everyday use but actively stiffen during exercise for improved support and performance.
The Innovate UK grant was awarded under the category of Hyper-Viscoelastic Fibre Extrusion for Textile Manufacture. Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) enabled the customer trials at its bespoke Fibre Development Centre in Leeds, England using its in-house FET-103 Monofilament meltspinning facilities, in harness with RHEON and FET technical operatives. The next phase will be to upscale the trials of preferred materials on RHEON’s own new FET-103 meltspinning line, with FET’s continued support and expertise on hand.
 
Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive characteristics could be as radical a change in the market as the initial introduction of stretch fibre with the launch of Lycra™. The textiles would have a multitude of beneficial properties and would provide significantly less compression in the garment than conventional materials, substantially improving user comfort, support and performance.

• New fibre with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process
• September 22-25, 2022, WSM-White Sustainable Milano, Visconti pavilion

For the second time in a row Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei takes part to White Sustainable Milano, the first fashion trade show entirely dedicated to the research and focus on new materials and technologies able to lead to a real ecological transition, developed in collaboration with Giusy Bettoni, CEO and founder C.L.A.S.S., and Marco Poli, Founder of The Style Lift.

After becoming a leader in formalwear lining, in the latest decade this fiber by Asahi Kasei has been able to evolve towards new consumer needs and desires, moving itself towards many different applications such as intimate, fashion, formalwear and activewear. Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei arrives at WSM with a new step into its journey and evolution in contemporary style with a new Staple-fibre that unlocks creative paths towards mew aesthetics, touch and sustainability.

A new yarn range that expands the company’s realm of applications for the fashion and luxury industry, including also knitwear, jersey and casualwear. Indeed, the fibre comes with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process. Bemberg™ also ensures certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach.

At WSM fair, the company proves it by unveiling a collection of t-shirts developed in collaboration with the MagnoLab smart network of Italian companies. Circular economy and environmental responsibility meet aesthetic research with a collaborative imprint.

The new t-shirt collection created in synergy with MagnoLab, a network of Biella-based companies bringing forward initiative and collabs related to sustainability and circular economy. Staple-fibre is the top ingredient of the collection. The cut t-shirts are presented both in sheer and blends with other certified fibers, including GOTS cottons and RWS wools, capable of enhancing both the hand of the final garment and the performance of the brand-new yarn.

• Experienced nonwovens professional with extensive hygiene, food, medical, and packaging background will strengthen INDA’s key member service areas

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the appointment of Matt O’Sickey, Ph.D., as its new Director of Education & Technical Affairs. An accomplished market development, technology and product management executive, O’Sickey has more than 20 years of experience with Tredegar Film Products in the absorbent hygiene, food, and medical sectors.

Most recently, he held Director positions at RKW-North America in the areas of research and development, product design, application engineering, site operations, quality, and technology with a focus on breathable, and lamination films for controlled atmosphere packaging.

At INDA, O’Sickey will direct and expand workforce development programs for all industry members, manage the international harmonized standards activities, and play a leadership role in INDA’s product stewardship working groups and conference content development committees.  

O’Sickey has a Ph.D. in Chemical Engineering and a Master’s degree in Engineering Administration, both from Virginia Tech as well as a Bachelor of Science in Chemical Engineering from Purdue University. He holds three U.S. patents. He will operate out of INDA’s offices in Cary, NC.

O’Sickey succeeds Chris Plotz who left INDA to pursue other interests.