From the Sector

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

PREMIUM and SEEK are focusing on a more rigorous curation of promising brands and collections as well as various opportunities to connect. An extensive content programme of keynotes, round tables, live interviews, study presentations and panels on the most important trends will offer two diverse and time-efficient days. The areas of concentration encompass sustainability, technology, fashion, business, lifestyle, and beauty. The repertoire of topics include marketing themes such as LinkedIn and Tik Tok, new tech tools such as ChatGPT or Virtual Dressing as well as news from the metaverse. Sustainability topics such as denim, circularity, re-commerce, vintage and the new Green Deal laws will be discussed as well as cross-industry topics such as female empowerment, Gen Z and modern leadership.
     
PREMIUM marks the first event of the season for womenswear. New silhouettes, design trends, provocation and the current zeitgeist are brought to the forefront with a carefully curated selection of brands. The fashion scene and visitors can look forward to the best of denim, hyper-femininity, beauty, well-being, future Berlin icons and innovations from the tech and lifestyle sphere. New talents will also have the opportunity to pitch their labels to a professional audience. SEEK focuses on heritage, Y2K, modern sportswear, outdoor and sustainable brands, which will be shown in the CONSCIOUS CLUB. Other highlights will include talks and inspiring activations from the community.

"We listen, research and curate the most important trends for the industry. To do this, our team of experts travels across Europe and exchange ideas with representatives from the entire industry. The results of months of work can be discovered in two days," says Maren Wiebus, Creative Director of the Premium Group.

Today, attention is the most important currency for the fashion industry. This is also why, for the very first time ever, the Premium Group events will take place over only two days instead of three. At the same time, generally accepted norms and rules are questioned, taken apart, and put back together again. The organisers of Premium Group invite fashion professionals to discuss the rules and redefine them together.
 
The summer editions of PREMIUM and SEEK will take place on 11 and 12 July at the new old location Station-Berlin in the heart of Berlin.

KT®, a kinesiology tape brand, launched KT Tape PRO Oxygen – the first kinesiology tape to feature CELLIANT® Infrared Technology from Hologenix. KT Tape PRO Oxygen is designed to increase cellular oxygenation and promote muscle support during physical activity.

The CELLIANT fine mineral powder is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals. Printed on the tape’s surface, it converts body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy. This delivers improved cellular oxygenation where tape is applied, bringing more oxygen to the cells and increasing local circulation. Thus, KT Tape PRO Oxygen premium kinesiology tape is super-charged to support muscles and joints through physical activity.

KT Tape PRO Oxygen was designed to allow athletes pushing their physical limits to optimize athletic performance while staying healthy. KT Tape PRO Oxygen’s elasticity allows for a full range of motion that rigid tapes do not and helps to lift the skin for a temporary increase in local blood flow. PRO Oxygen incorporates high strength water-resistant adhesive and ultrabreathable PRO synthetic fibers making it one of the most durable kinesiology tape products on the market.

Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş., Türkiye, has successfully started up a complete line to produce nonwoven roll goods for biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes. This line has been delivered, installed, and commissioned by international technology group ANDRITZ.

The neXline wetlace CP line combines the benefits of two technologies: wetlaid and spunlace. Natural fibers are processed gently to create a high-performance and sustainable wipe. This next-generation wipe, called Newipe®, combines the benefits of spunlace fabric, in particular remarkable strength in all directions, with the biodegradability and softness of a WetlaceTM fabric. It is produced with a lower carbon footprint, has a low lint rate, and does not generate dust during production.

Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş. is a leading nonwoven roll good producer and a member of a group company. The group company consists of 4 companies that operate end-to-end manufacturing including nonwovens, cardboard packings, plastics, and finished wet wipe products. Headquartered in Istanbul, Sapro is the leader in Türkiye and one of the four leaders in the manufacturing of wet wipes in Europe. The company produces, converts, and supplies 161 million sheets of wipes per day for personal, household, and industrial use, exporting 70% of its production to 65 countries all over the world. Sustainability plays a prominent role in Sapro’s business strategy.

In recognition of his extraordinary engineering achievements in the fields of textile mechanical engineering, textile technology as well as textile chemistry and surface modification of textile semi-finished products, Prof. Paul Kiekens was awarded the title of Doctor honoris causa (Dr.-Ing. h.c.) on April 5, 2023.
 
Prof. Kiekens was a university professor at Ghent University, Belgium, for almost 35 years and thus responsible for textile-oriented education and research. Intensive interaction with European business and science was always particularly important to him.
 
Immediately after the fall of the Berlin Wall, he opened the way for international cooperation in teaching and research in the field of textile mechanical engineering, textile technologies, and textile chemistry for the only Eastern European university research institution with a textile orientation, the ITM (formerly ITB) at the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering of TU Dresden, and provided great and uncomplicated support. A close, lasting and intensive relationship developed, which had a trend-setting influence on the scientific career of Professor Paul Kiekens. This was reflected above all in the expert advice given for major projects.
 
These include, for example, the funded junior research group "Holistic approach to the development and modelling of a new generation of multiaxial fabrics for fibre composites to strengthen Saxon, French and Flemish industry in the high-performance sector" (SAXOMAX) and jointly acquiring the EU project "Large scale manufacturing technology for high performance lightweight 3D multifunctional composites" (3D-LightTrans). Especially in these large-scale projects, intensive cooperation with industrial partners was essential for success.
 
As early as the 1990s, Professor Paul Kiekens had the vision of creating a European network for universities in textile teaching and research. In 1994, the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX) was founded with the aim of establishing teaching and research in the field of textile technology at an internationally respected level through joint concepts. Due to the prevailing cooperation at that time between Professor Dr. Paul Kiekens and Professor Dr. Peter Offermann, the TU Dresden, represented by the ITM (formerly ITB), has been a full member and decisively integrated in the network since its foundation on July 1, 1994. Thus Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Paul Kiekens has significantly promoted the international cooperation of the TU Dresden, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering with international university textile research institutions.
 
Professor Paul Kiekens was executive coordinator of AUTEX until his retirement. The internationally renowned symposium takes place annually as a part of AUTEX.

The diabetic community has always been a priority for Hologenix, creators of CELLIANT® infrared technology, so the company embarked on an initial study to test the hypothesis that the technology can positively impact diabetic patients with vascular impairment, now published in Journal of Textile Science & Engineering. Another study is underway as well with more research on the horizon.

According to statistics cited in the International Diabetes Federation Diabetes Atlas, 9th edition, globally, close to a half billion people are living with diabetes and that number is expected to increase by more than 50 percent in the next 25 years.
 
The introduction of the study in the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering also reports that diabetic patients frequently suffer from a combination of peripheral neuropathy and peripheral artery disease, which particularly affects their feet. It further states that it has been estimated that the lifetime risk for the development of foot ulcers in diabetic patients can be as high as 25 percent and that the risk of amputation is 10 to 20 times higher than in non-diabetic subjects.
 
The study was performed by Lawrence A. Lavery, D.P.M., M.P.H., a Professor in the Department of Plastic Surgery at UT Southwestern Medical Center. His clinic and research interests involve diabetic foot complications, infections and wound healing, and he participated in the conception, design, implementation and authorship of the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering study.  

CELLIANT technology is a patented process for adding micron-sized thermo-responsive mineral particles to fibers, in this case polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers. The resulting CELLIANT yarns were woven into stockings and gloves containing either 82% CELLIANT polyester, 13% nylon and 5% spandex or for the placebo, 82% polyester with no CELLIANT, 13% nylon and 5% spandex. CELLIANT products absorb body heat and re-emit the energy back to the body as infrared energy, which is non-invasive and increases temporary blood flow and cell oxygenation levels in the body.

The objective of the study was to “evaluate changes in transcutaneous oxygen (TcPO2) and peripheral blood flow (laser Doppler, LD) in the hands and feet of diabetic patients with vascular impairment when CELLIANT gloves and stockings are worn.” While there was not a statistically significant result across all subjects, the study did show that some patients wearing CELLIANT stockings for 60 minutes had an increase of as much as 20% in tissue oxygenation and 30% in localized blood flow. According to the study’s conclusion, “the trends that were observed in favor of CELLIANT stockings suggest that a larger well-designed clinical trial should be undertaken and may provide evidence of clinical efficacy in treatment of the diabetic foot.”
 
The study also notes that “There have been no documented or observed side effects of wearing CELLIANT stockings, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to conventional pharmaceutical interventions.”

Hologenix has embarked on a more comprehensive trial, “Study to Evaluate CELLIANT Diabetic Medical Socks to Increase Tissue Oxygenation and Incidence of Complete Wound Closure in Diabetic Foot Wounds” – NCT04709419, which focuses on the impact of CELLIANT technology to potentially improve tissue oxygenation and wound healing outcomes.
 
“We are excited to explore whether future studies of infrared, with its most common biological effects of increased localized blood flow and cellular oxygenation, could result in a breakthrough in diabetic patients with vascular impairment,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-founder and CEO. “We see a huge potential opportunity with this research for helping to fulfill our core mission of improving people’s health and well-being by potentially reducing the impact of diabetes, and we are actively seeking partners to expand our research efforts.”

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will participate in the 40th Session of SPINEXPO in Shanghai, China from 12th - 14th April 2023.

At SPINEXPO, SHIMA SEIKI will offer visitors a choice between its "SDS®-ONE APEX4" apparel design system and its "APEXFiz®" subscription-based design software. Whereas SDS®-ONE APEX4 is offered as an all-in-one proprietary hardware + software package, APEXFiz® is subscription-based design software that can be installed on customers' individual computers. Both SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® software support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. When a design is approved for production, knitting data is automatically generated for converting to machine data, allowing smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

Also on display at SPINEXPO will be SHIMA SEIKI's "yarnbank®," an online web service for searching and viewing the latest yarns, developed with cooperation from yarn companies from around the world. Registered users can download yarn data for free, for use in fabric simulation and virtual sampling on APEXFiz®, avoiding the need to scan yarn on their own. By using yarn that is used in actual production, designers and apparel companies can furthermore rest assured that the simulations created using yarn from yarnbank® are not merely realistic images but accurate representations using yarn that can actually be purchased and used in production. With yarnbank®, the entire supply chain from yarn companies and apparel companies to knit manufacturers can be connected digitally.

SHIMA SEIKI will also display the latest collection of its knit samples, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that is knit in its entirety on the machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward. Together with virtual sampling performed on APEXFiz®, WHOLEGARMENT® offers smart production for realizing a sustainable fashion supply chain.

With a current booking level of almost 90% for the international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START, KEYHOUSE, THE SOURCE and BLUEZONE, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is starting the new season for Autumn.Winter 24/25 on a strong footing. From the organisers' point of view, the main reason for the high level of acceptance is the rebalancing of the July dates.

The international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START (18 to 20 July), the innovation hub KEYHOUSE, theb one-stop sourcing platform THE SOURCE and the international denim trade show BLUEZONE (18 and 19 July) will move ahead and at the same time increase their relevance in the international trade show scene. For a large part of the visitors, the earlier date is closer to the collection rhythms and offers more time for further developments.

What's new?
Due to the early date of MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE, the Munich trade show duo with KEYHOUSE and THE SOURCE formats will function even more strongly as an impulse generator and leading international event. The Munich location will also be strengthened by the relocation of the DMI Fashion Day from Düsseldorf to the Bavarian capital. The first DMI FASHION DAY LIVE will take place the day before the next MUNICH FABRIC START at the MOC.

The course will also be set anew in September: The date, which remains important for the industry, will in future be occupied by reVIEW - the new format of the VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION for follow-ups and trends as well as new market developments. On an area of around 2,500 square metres, the first reVIEW Autumn.Winter 24/25 will be held on 13 and 14 September 2023 on the Zenith grounds in Motorworld.

On 30 March 2022, the European Commission presented its vision for the future of the textile industry. The strategy mainly focuses on reducing the environmental footprint and promote sustainability and transparency in the value chain.

EURATEX has welcomed the publication of the strategy, as it recognises the strategic importance of the European textile industry, and its core competitive values of quality and creativity. At the same time, the association has warned that translating that vision into reality is a delicate process, as the industry needs to reconcile sustainability with competitiveness. Making the green (and digital) transition should make companies stronger; the benefits should outweigh the costs.

This premise had a serious blow by the Russian war in Ukraine, which erupted at almost the same time when the strategy was launched, and has dramatically changed the economic context. Energy prices increased by a factor of 10 (!), putting the European industry at a significant disadvantage with its global competitors, leading to company shutdowns or relocations. Extended lock downs in China and defensive trade policies in the US and elsewhere have further generated uncertainty on the market and disrupted supply chains.

Today, one year after its publication, EURATEX remains carefully optimistic about the implementation of the strategy, but needs to warn against some important pitfalls on the road ahead.

1. Despite these turbulent times, the Commission is moving ahead “swiftly” in translating their EU Textile Strategy into (draft) legislation. At present, at least 16 pieces of legislation are on the table, which will turn the textile industry into a strictly regulated sector. The quality of this new regulatory framework is critical to the success of the strategy: upcoming rules need to be coherent, technically feasible and enforceable, and have a minimal cost for SMEs. EURATEX calls for a realistic timetable and “competitiveness test” for each piece of legislation before it is adopted.
2. Textile companies need to be informed and supported to comply with this new framework. This requires substantial funding which should be earmarked exclusively to the sector, covering areas of innovation and digitalisation, skills development, support to start ups and internationalisation, as well as access to affordable energy. In this regard, EURATEX calls on the Commission to translate the current “good intentions” into concrete decisions.
3. The EU strategy will not work if there is no demand for sustainable textiles, both from individual consumers and public authorities (procurement). Concrete measures need to be taken to offer a competitive advantage to sustainable and high quality textile products, e.g. through a different VAT rate, strict procurement rules, closer cooperation between the brands/retailers, producers and consumers.
4. The EU strategy could also fail, if the global dimension of the textile industry is ignored. Up to 80% of clothing products are produced outside the EU; these products need to comply with the new framework, but it remains unclear how to ensure that level playing field. Market surveillance needs to be stepped up massively – also targeting on line sales – but this would require significant efforts from member states, which are not available as of today.

Despite these important challenges, EURATEX remains committed to the successful implementation of the EU Textile Strategy. Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “We want to be a global leader in sustainable textiles, building on the entrepreneurship, quality and creativity of nearly 150,000 European textile companies. Creating this new framework is an incredible challenge, requiring a close dialogue between the industry and the regulator. But if well designed and carefully implemented, it can set a new era for the European textile industry”.

The Swedish textile-to-textile recycling innovator Renewcell has signed a Letter of Intent with China Textile Academy Green Fibre Co. Ltd., an Chinese lyocell fiber producer, concerning a long-term commercial collaboration around man-made cellulosic fiber production.

The LOI provides the framework for an upcoming offtake agreement between the parties. The future legally binding offtake agreement will set out commercial terms for the delivery of 18,000 tonnes of Circulose® dissolving pulp to CTA Green Fibre over five years. CTA Green Fibre intends to use Circulose® as feedstock in the production of lyocell fibers to be supplied to textile manufacturers and fashion brands worldwide.

The agreement affirms the two companies’ intent to work together to supply lyocell textile fibers made using Circulose®, the 100% recycled textile pulp made by Renewcell, to global fashion brands in the coming years. The agreement has been facilitated by Ekman Group, Renewcell’s exclusive global trading partner.

Patrik Lundström, Renewcell’s CEO, commented: ”With this agreement, we take a new step in demonstrating the applicability of Circulose® in commercial-scale production of lyocell fibers. Lyocell is a high quality, low-impact fiber using closed loop production process which is highly sought after among our fashion brand partners that will now soon be available incorporating Circulose® recycled from textile waste. I am impressed by the innovative capacity and leadership of CTA Green Fibre and look forward to working together with them to make fashion circular together.”

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition is set for a renewal. After last year’s brief pause, 283 exhibitors from 5 countries and regions will showcase their latest innovations at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) during this traditional peak sourcing period. The fair will be held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC and PH Value from 28 – 30 March 2023.

Comprehensive range of products zoned for easy sourcing
The 27,000 sqm gross exhibition space in hall 5.2 will host suppliers in multiple product categories, such as bedding, towelling, table and kitchen linen, home textile technologies, and textile designs. Several product pavilions and zones will be formed to encourage efficient sourcing, with areas designated for quality bedding, towelling, feather and down duvet fillings, quilt fillings, intelligent equipment and upholstery fabric products. Buyers looking for sustainable fibres, yarns and fabrics may be interested in sourcing at the Lenzing Group’s brand new centralised Lenzing Home Textile Satellite Pavilion. With Lenzing joined by eight of its Chinese downstream manufacturers, the pavilion will showcase the various home textile applications for the Austrian company’s wood-based TENCEL™ fibres.

Other well-known international and domestic exhibitors include Cotton Council International (CCI), Zhangjiagang Coolist Life Technology, Guangdong Kulida Down, Wujiang City Yunjie Textiles, Yantai Pacific Home Fashion, Sunvim Group, and Jiangsu Goostars Hometextiles. These suppliers, and many more, will present their up-to-date products to meet the sourcing demands of buyers from different channels.

Programme
At every edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textile’s fringe events keep fairgoers informed on a variety of topics, allowing exhibitors and visitors alike to stay up to date with the latest market trends and make informed business decisions.

Aligning with the fair’s general direction on promoting sustainability, and to satisfy the industry’s needs, representatives from Lenzing will be holding an exclusive seminar about the e-commerce opportunities surrounding eco-friendly TENCEL™ products’ sleep enhancing qualities. Other presentations and discussions that touch on sustainability will also be available under the fair’s Textile & Technology event theme.

With consumers globally paying more attention to health issues and increasing their spending on health products, the home and contract textile industry is also a party to this rising trend. To this end, seminars discussing traditional Chinese medicine and how it relates to different health issues will be held on day one. Their crossover topics include how aromatherapy can encourage high-quality sleep, as well as an introduction on the innovation of traditional medicinal textiles.

Moreover, the well-known Chinese retailer JD.com will co-host an event that promotes home textile products made with Chinese cotton. Several talks will focus on different aspects, such as the products’ quality and the overall potential of this industry aided by government policies.

After China’s relaxation of border restrictions and other pandemic control measures, it is now easier for domestic and overseas buyers to visit their Chinese suppliers at the fairground, for the chance to touch and feel their desired products.