From the Sector

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

March 2019: For decades, Schoeller Textil has been meticulous in observing its responsibility to humans and the environment. Developed and produced in Switzerland under the most stringent conditions, the high-tech textiles and textile technologies encompass a spirit of innovative and outstanding quality. With a focus on sustainability, the groundbreaking, ecological portfolio includes, among other things, genuine upcycled products with ECONYL®-Garn, 100 % recycled, recyclable wear2wear woven and knitted fabrics or bio technologies based on sustainable raw materials.

High-quality textiles have a long service life and can remain in use for longer. The fabric properties are further improved by smart textile technologies such as water- and dirt-repelling functions. This helps preserve the environment and cuts down on the use of resources. In its manufacturing, Schoeller Textil AG always considers the ecological compatibility of its products. Therefore, since 2001, production at the Swiss site has always complied with the stringent guidelines of the bluesign® system. By conviction, Schoeller devotes itself to sustainable climate protection and takes part in the Energy Agency of the Swiss Private Sector programme to actively reduce carbon emissions and optimise energy efficiency.

The DyStar® Group recently launched a new concept of their resource saving module – Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous.

Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous is a modified pad-dry-thermosol-pad-steam dyeing process for open width PES/CO fabrics. In contrast to the standard PDTPS process, Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous does not require a separate reduction clearing process and thus saves more than 40% chemicals, water and energy. This effect is obtained by using a special dye choice of Dianix® XF/XF2 and SF disperse dyes in combination with selected Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes and a modified steaming and wash-off process with Sera® auxiliaries.

The Cadira concepts considerably reduce process costs, water, waste and energy consumption and machine utilization. Cadira supports Brands & Retailers and their production partners in their effort to save valuable resources and to reduce the carbon footprint of their textile goods.

The first Cadira module was developed in 2016. Since then DyStar has launched Cadira concepts for various substrates and applications. So far, the following Cadira concepts are available.

Cadira Polyester
Cadira Recycled Polyester
Cadira Vat
Cadira Reactive
Cadira Procion PX
Cadira Wool
Cadira Denim

DyStar will continue their effort to support the textile industry to reduce the environmental footprint.

About DyStar
DyStar® Group is a solution provider, offering customers across the globe a complete range of colorants, auxiliaries and services. The DyStar Group has offices, competence centers, agencies and production plants in over 50 countries to ensure the availability of expertise in all important markets. With a heritage of more than a century of product development and innovation for the textile and leather industry, DyStar has developed into new markets and now in addition serves the paper, plastic and many other specialty chemical industries.

DyStar’s service division assist brands & retailers and their industry partners from their first inspiration throughout the entire supply chain to ensure that they meet stringent quality and ecological specifications, reduce costs and shorten lead times. The service division offers state of the art color communication through CSI, textile and ecology testing through Texanlab, ecology and environmental advice, supply chain auditing and consulting for RSL compliant sustainable processes through Sustainable Textile Solutions programs.

The DyStar econfidence® program provides assurance that provided products comply with legal, voluntary and brand & retailer RSL (Restricted Substance List) requirements. It is an assurance that our products are in compliance with chemical and environmental legislation in each market in which they are sold.
Visit www.DyStar.com for more information.

• Huntsman continues to inject its leading edge innovation in bangladesh to support textile industry with sustainable practices

Singapore - In a signing ceremony, Huntsman Textile Effects announced that it has extended the partnership and collaboration agreement with Viyellatex Group for another two years. The agreement will see the Viyellatex Group continuing to use Huntsman as its preferred and sole supplier for industry leading dyes, chemicals and dying auxiliaries. This partnership, now in its 17th year reinforces the recognition of Huntsman as a trusted and preferred supplier for the Viyellatex Group. Under this agreement, Huntsman will support Viyellatex’s Group of mills to streamline operations and optimize processes, train technical staff, and make recommendations to help improve yield and productivity. This strategic cooperation will enable Viyellatex Group to continue to achieve operational excellence.

“We are extremely pleased and proud of this continuing partnership with the Viyellatex Group. As a global leader in the transition to a more sustainable textiles sector, we are pleased to join hands with one of the country’s leading exporter of ready-made garments (RMG) and a supplier to leading international brands, commented Chuck Hirsch, Vice President, Sales and Technical Resources, Huntsman Textile Effects. “This cooperation agreement will also help Viyellatex Group to maintain its leading edge in the textile industry by leveraging on Huntsman’s R&D capabilities, innovation and focus on sustainability, while continuing to comply with the stringent requirements of its export customers around the world,” continued Mr Hirsh.

Speaking on the occasion Mr. David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group said, “Viyellatex Group is the leading company in the area of sustainable apparel in Bangladesh. This continuing support and technical expertise from Huntsman will help us be more competitive in this increasingly challenging market. It will help us to comply with the stringent product demands from our global customers and better equip us to face challenges from the operational and environmental aspects.” He continues, “Viyellatex Group places strong emphasis on sustainability by minimizing energy usage, adopting waste and water recycling, and using only organic materials and environmentally compliant chemicals and dyes and Huntsman is the perfect partner in this regard as they share this vision.” “We are pleased to be conferred Preferred Supplier Status from Viyellatex Group, partnering with one of the leading apparel groups in Bangladesh” , said Mr. Dheeraj Talreja, Commercial Director - South Asia, Middle East & Africa of Huntsman Textile Effects. “This partnership is a great testament of our customers’ trust and confidence in Huntsman’s quality, proven expertise, products and service delivery,” he continued.

In conjunction with this signing ceremony and as an active supporter of Bangladesh’s textile industry, today Mr Hirsch also hosted a customer seminar for more than 500 customers and prospects in the country’s capital, to provide them with leading edge technologies to help them be more sustainable with competitive value-add to customers.

Huntsman Textile Effects holds regular seminars and workshops and also collaborates with textile mills and apparel manufacturers to adopt new technologies and processes that conserve resources, reduce waste and improve productivity.

Bangladesh’s textile industry is the nation’s largest export sector. The ready-made garment (RMG) sector is worth US$28.14* billion in 2016-2017, with more than 4,300 garment factories employing about 4 million people and accounting for 80.7% of the country’s total exports. To remain internationally competitive, local textile mills and RMG factories increasingly have to demonstrate that they operate in a socially and environmentally sustainable way.

  The new cutting room will expand the German car parts maker’s airbag cutting capacity in Europe. This latest collaboration between Lectra and its longtime customer builds on a mutual relationship of trust reaching back to previous ZF TRW projects in Portugal, Poland, Mexico and China. Having recently devised a worldwide airbag growth strategy, the company turned once more to Lectra to help reinforce the capacity of its European manufacturing base.
Early in 2016, Lectra unveiled the revolutionary FocusQuantum range, leading to certification of the integrated airbag cutting solution by the customer’s cutting room managers across the globe. Later that year, ZF TRW also certified Lectra’s FocusQuantum Suite cutting preparation software. The stringent process carried out by ZF TRW bore out the productivity, performance and quality of the state-of-the-art airbag cutting solution and advanced software system.

“By evaluating the solution in accordance with established practices, we were able to confirm that FocusQuantum will help satisfy the projected output of our newest facility,” notes Victor Seoane, head of Global Manufacturing Engineering for Inflatable Restraint Systems, ZF TRW. "We were impressed by the innovation that Lectra’s FocusQuantum offers, enabling us to significantly reduce our cutting cost per bag."
“With this new collaboration, Lectra demonstrates yet again the added value built into the integrated design of FocusQuantum,” states Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. "The acquisition of two FocusQuantum will enable ZF TRW to meet short-term productivity objectives while also laying the foundation for future growth.”