From the Sector

From June 24 to 28, a delegation of Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be engaged in Turkmenistan for an institutional mission organized by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency. The delegation will have some institutional and commercial meetings scheduled in Ashgabat.

For the Italian textile machinery industry, the Turkmen market has high growth potential. Cotton is the third largest export product of the Country, and local authorities aim to develop a robust textile industry capable of processing the locally grown raw material. Significant investments in new equipment will be necessary for the success of this development program. To achieve this goal, the demand for textile machinery and technologies is rapidly increasing.

This is testified by the average annual growth rate of Turkmen textile machinery imports between 2009 and 2023 (+7.3%). Furthermore in 2024-2027 period forecasts by ACIMIT predict a further average annual increase of 5.5%.

Meanwhile, in 2023, the demand for Italian textile machinery from Turkmen companies has grown. Italian exports increased from 600,000 euros in 2022 to approximately 13 million euros the following year.

The Italian companies participating in the institutional mission are: Brazzoli, Color Service, Itema, Marzoli, Mcs, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Santoni.

Archroma is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.

From classic blue jeans to fashion-forward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.

Archroma will demonstrate its solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.

Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.

DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.

EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates high-performance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

The consortium of Teijin Limited, Fukui Tateami Co., Ltd., and Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University announced that a novel surgical patch, under the brand name SYNFOLIUM®, will be released for manufacturing and distribution by Teijin Medical Technologies Co., Ltd. on June 12, 2024.

SYNFOLIUM® is a surgical patch with knitted fabric consisting of both bio-absorbable and non-absorbable yarns, which are coated with cross-linked gelatin. After the patch is surgically implanted in the body, the patient’s tissue grows and gradually surrounds the expandable, non-absorbable portion, while the bio-absorbable portion degrades. The regenerated tissue has the potential to reduce the risk of inflammatory reactions, foreign body reactions and cell death, which often cause deterioration of the implants.

This new product is designed to be used in surgical treatment of patients with congenital heart disease (CHD). The prevalence of CHD is 1 in 100 people globally, and in Japan, it is estimated that approximately 10,000 neonates are born with the disease each year. Newborns and infants with CHD generally undergo surgeries to correct hemodynamic problems due to septal defects or narrowed blood vessels (stenosis) by implanting a medical patch, usually made from synthetic or animal-derived materials. However, over a long period after surgery, a considerable number of patients eventually require re-interventions, such as repeat surgery or catheter therapy, due to the deterioration of the implanted patch. This deterioration can be caused by an immune-mediated foreign body reaction or the development of stenosis due to the inability of the patch to stretch in response to the growth of cardiac and vascular tissue.

To address this clinical problem, Shintaro Nemoto, M.D., Ph.D., of Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University, created an idea for a patch that could accommodate the growth of patients’ bodies through restoration by the patient’s own tissues. In 2012, he began research and exploration to make this idea a reality.

Fukui Tateami, a pioneer in warp-knitting technology based in Fukui Prefecture, turned Dr. Nemoto’s idea into the novel concept of an expandable cardiovascular patch. Based on advanced warp knitting technology it developed over the 80 years since its founding, the company created a special knitted fabric structure to accommodate tissue regeneration.

Teijin developed the technology to coat knitted fabric with gelatin, which can prevent blood leakage and can be replaced by the patient’s own tissue. The company has been proceeding with design and development, clinical trials, establishment of a commercial production system, and application for manufacturing and marketing approval in Japan.

The development of SYNFOLIUM® has been supported by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry since 2014, as well as by a program launched in 2017 by the Japan Agency for Medical Research and Development (AMED) to facilitate collaboration between medical academia and industry. Japan’s Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare designated SYNFOLIUM® as a “SAKIGAKE” device in April 2018, providing various incentives to speed up approval for clinical use. In addition, the Japanese Society of Pediatric Cardiology and Cardiac Surgery cooperated by assisting with clinical trials and providing advice on creating guidelines for appropriate use.

Clinical trials that began in 2019 were completed in 2022, and Teijin Medical Technologies applied for manufacturing and sales approval to the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare in January 2023. The company received approval in July of the same year.

Going forward, Teijin and Teijin Medical Technologies, Fukui Tateami, and Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University will provide clinical information about this product to medical institutions to facilitate its use in patients with CHD. Teijin and Teijin Medical Technologies will continue to collect and analyze cases using SYNFOLIUM® to establish its long-term safety and efficacy.

Furthermore, to help improve the quality of life of patients with CHD around the world, the consortium plans to market SYNFOLIUM® overseas by working to gain manufacturing and marketing approval in the United States, the European Union and other countries.

KM.ON launches its new Quality Monitoring System (QMS) for the retrofit market at ITM from June 4 to 8 in Istanbul, presenting a solution for quality management on warp knitting machines.
For its performance in defect detection, the QMS uses the advances of our time: a camera system that captures images of the production process, and a specialized artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the images. Particularly in terms of handling, reliability and precision of defect detection, the QMS from KM.ON offers advantages over conventional systems that do not rely on AI analysis.

The QMS is designed for easy setup and can be operated without prior expertise. If a defect causes the machine to come to a standstill, the operator is informed immediately via a user-friendly interface. The immediate warning enables rapid intervention and therefore less downtime and more productivity.

Thanks to its conceptual design, the QMS only stops production when actual defects are detected. Unnecessary interruptions caused by external disruptive factors, such as changing light conditions, are avoided. This precision prevents productivity losses and helps to ensure continuous operation. Costs due to unnecessary machine downtime are avoided.

Unlike conventional camera systems, the QMS detects even the most complex defects and triggers an immediate machine stop. This minimizes material waste. During operation, the AI-controlled system learns from the data to enhance its detection accuracy, thereby reducing the reject rate and costs. The QMS also adapts to evolving production environments to ensure consistently high efficiency.

Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) hat die Initiative von Bundeskanzler Olaf Scholz und Präsident Emmanuel Macron begrüßt, den EU-Haushalt neu auszurichten und „mehr für die Wettbewerbsfähigkeit ihrer Industrie“ zu tun. Dafür soll Bürokratie ab- und Schlüsseltechnologien ausgebaut werden. „Die MedTech-Branche ist in Europa eine Schlüsseltechnologie der Zukunft, die auch noch entscheidend für die Gesundheit und Lebensqualität der Menschen ist. Wir können gerade hier die Chancen noch besser nutzen, bessere Anreize für Innovationen setzen und unnötige Bürokratie abbauen. Wir müssen mit einem ‚Industrial Deal‘ einen besseren Interessensausgleich mit wirtschaftspolitischen Belangen erreichen und Europa wieder wettbewerbsfähiger machen“, kommentiert BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll.

• Der europäische Markt für Medizintechnik beträgt insgesamt rund 160 Milliarden Euro. Das sind über ein Viertel des Weltmarkts. Europa ist damit nach den USA der zweitgrößte MedTech-Markt der Welt.
• Die 35.000 europäischen MedTech-Unternehmen investieren viel in die Verbesserung und Entwicklung bahnbrechender Technologien zum Wohle der Patienten und beschäftigen 865.000 Menschen in Europa.
• 92 Prozent der Unternehmen sind kleine und mittelständische Betriebe (KMU).

Insbesondere hilft die Medizintechnik den Patient:innen und unterstützt die Angehörigen der Gesundheitsberufe mit innovativen Lösungen. Sie sorgt dafür, dass immer mehr Menschen besser und gesünder länger leben.

„Aber: Europa verliert bei dieser wichtigen Schlüsselindustrie durch die überbürokratische und nicht praxistaugliche europäische Medizinprodukte-Verordnung, kurz MDR, den Anschluss“, warnt Möll. Unternehmen bevorzugen mittlerweile die Markteinführung von Innovationen in den USA.

• Nach einer Analyse der Boston Consulting Group (BCG) priorisieren mittlerweile 89 Prozent der Unternehmen eine FDA-Zulassung.
• Auch die BVMed-Herbstumfrage 2023 zeigt: Die Zeiten, in denen das europäische Regulierungssystem für Medizinprodukte dem US-amerikanischen FDA-System überlegen war, sind lange vorbei. 53 Prozent der BVMed-Mitgliedsunternehmen präferieren das FDA-System, nur 12 Prozent das MDR-System der EU. 35 Prozent haben keine Präferenz.

In seinem MDR-Whitepaper fordert der BVMed daher unter anderem die Abschaffung der fünfjährigen Re-Zertifizierungs-Pflicht, die Einführung eines Fast-Track-Verfahrens für innovative Produkte, Orphan Devices und Nischenprodukte, die Steigerung der Effizienz, der Transparenz und der Berechenbarkeit des MDR-Systems sowie die Zusammenführung der Verantwortung im System über eine zu schaffende Governance-Struktur.

Der BVMed fordert in seinem Positionspapier zur Europawahl am 9. Juni 2024 zudem einen eigenen Gesundheitsausschuss im Europäischen Parlament, um den gestiegenen Stellenwert der Gesundheitsthemen abzubilden. Unter dem Titel „Medizintechnik-Standort Europa stärken“ ist es für den deutschen Medizintechnik-Verband besonders wichtig, die Resilienz des Gesundheitssystems zu stärken und damit die medizinische Versorgung krisenfest zu gestalten.

Fashion for Good launches the Sorting for Circularity USA report unveiling significant findings from the project. A first of its kind in the US, the report delves into consumer disposal behaviour, textile waste composition, and the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling within the country. It provides insights for making informed decisions for further investments, infrastructure development and the next steps towards circularity.

The U.S. Textile Waste Landscape
The United States is a global leader in textile consumption and waste generation, positioning itself as one of the largest sources of secondary raw materials for post-consumer textile feedstock. Despite this, only 15% of the textile waste generated in the US is currently recovered, with 85% ending up in landfills or incinerators.

With the impending policies in the European Union and certain American states, alongside commitments from both public and private sectors to promote fibre-to-fibre recycling, there is a growing demand for infrastructure related to post-consumer textile collection, sorting, and recycling.

Addressing Data GPS
In the pursuit of establishing a functional reverse supply chain and the necessary infrastructure, two critical areas lack data  – consumer disposal behaviour, and material characteristics of post-consumer textiles. The Sorting for Circularity USA project addressed these gaps through a comprehensive national consumer survey and waste composition analysis.

The survey revealed that 60% of respondents divert textiles, while 4% discard them, driven primarily by factors such as condition and fit. On the other hand, the waste composition analysis unveiled that over 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, with cotton and polyester being the most prevalent fibre types, indicating a substantial potential for these textiles to be used as feedstock for mechanical and chemical recycling processes.

The project revealed a $1.5 billion opportunity for fibre-to-fibre recycling by redirecting non-rewearable textiles from landfills and incinerators to recycling streams. The report outlines growth strategies for the US textile recycling industry, emphasising enhanced financial value through efficiency improvements, increased commodity valuation, and policy mechanisms like extended producer responsibility schemes. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial, including brands, government, retailers, consumers, collectors, sorters, recyclers, and financial institutions, to promote circularity, invest in research and development, and advocate for supportive policies and incentives to drive technological innovation. This redirection of textiles towards recycling underscores the substantial economic potential of embracing circularity in the textile industry.
 
There is an opportunity to build on these insights and assess the feasibility of different sorting business models and (semi) automated sorting technologies to create a demo facility suitable for closed-loop textile recycling. Ultimately, evaluating the commercial and technical feasibility of a semi-automated sorting process and identifying investment opportunities to scale solutions nationwide.

The new M line Allergen Spray, powered by patented HeiQ Synbio technology, eliminates allergens that are commonly found in our homes, and which affect a large percentage of people. These allergens include dust mite matters and allergens on pet hair which are found on our beds, sofas, carpets, curtains, and other household items. By applying the Allergen Spray, you can harness the powers of active probiotics, which break down common allergens, making bedroom and living spaces more comfortable and fresher.

Allergies are typically triggered by allergenic proteins. The active probiotics (beneficial bacteria) in the spray generate enzymes that break down proteins, removing these allergy triggers. A study by BMA Laboratories (Bochum, Germany), an accredited and independent laboratory, observed a 60% house dust mite allergens reduction, over 75% pet allergen reduction, and a close to 90% pollen allergen reduction, after the initial treatment.

The future of allergen reduction with the M line Allergen Spray, where innovation meets everyday convenience, is now available at Beter Bed stores in The Netherlands and the Belgian Flemish region. The continuous misting spray bottle ensures an even application, making it suitable to apply in home textiles such as mattress toppers, bed linen, pillow covers, comforters, carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture, or any other items in reach of dust mites and pets. In the first week, the spray should be applied every day, and thereafter twice per week. The probiotics keep working for days, helping to maintain a balanced microbiome on treated surfaces

Monforts, which is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, will exhibit a Montex stenter chamber with an integrated overhead heat recovery unit at the forthcoming ITM textile machinery exhibition in Istanbul from June 4-8.

The heat recovery unit on display at the stand of Monforts partner Neotek is just one of a range of energy saving options the company is now providing for both new and existing line installations.

Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

coaTTex
At ITM, Monforts will also introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit, dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coaTTex is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts lines, especially Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and coating, including black-out coating.

Central location
“In Turkey we are very strongly supported by our representative Neotek, our solution partner on the ground for service, installation and commissioning, providing specialised and rapid help to all of our customers,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Paeffgen. “ITM is always one of the most important exhibitions for Monforts, for meeting customers not just from Turkey, but across the Middle East and Central Asia, as well as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“Istanbul’s centralised position makes it accessible to the majority of the major textile manufacturing hubs and as we mark our 140th anniversary in 2024, having been founded back in 1884, the ITM show will provide us with the ideal opportunity to celebrate with colleagues and customers all together in one location.”

On the occasion of the 15-year anniversary of the inaugural Global Fashion Summit, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released a special edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a strategic resource designed to steer fashion organisations towards achieving a net positive industry by 2050. In line with the 2024 theme of Global Fashion Summit, ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, this year’s Fashion CEO Agenda presents five pivotal opportunities for fashion executives and the industry at large to unlock transformative impact for people and planet.

In the 15 years since the inception of Global Fashion Summit in 2009, sustainability has evolved from a peripheral concern to a central focus in the fashion business landscape, prompting significant strides across the industry. Despite this progress, the alarming escalation of global warming and exponential rise in clothing production demand urgent and collective action from fashion industry leaders.

Unlocking the next level of positive impact necessitates a comprehensive understanding of interdependencies and system-wide solutions. The 2024 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda aims to empower fashion leaders and the wider industry to embrace five key opportunities:

• Operationalising Sustainability
• Redefining Growth
• Activating Consumers
• Prioritising People
• Mobilising Based on Materiality

Drawing from the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda — Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems — this special edition highlights five cross-cutting opportunities that will help achieve the next level of progress on these priorities.

Tailored for fashion brands, retailers, and producers, this edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda differs from previous editions as it focuses on challenging norms and amplifying efforts, and serves as a crucial inflection point for the industry to foster positive outcomes for both society and the environment. By upholding the rights of workers, championing diversity and inclusivity, redefining success metrics, and reshaping growth paradigms, profound transformation is possible.
 
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 aims to help leaders to shift their mindset, providing clear unlocks for embracing the challenges for future proofing their businesses and operations. I urgently encourage leaders to work closely with cross-functional teams, use empathy, and a values-based approach that prioritises the planet and the well-being of the people. By doing so, we secure the foundation of our businesses and deliver not only financial returns but also positive impact on the world around us.”

Through renowned events, impact programmes, and thought leadership publications, GFA consistently convenes industry pioneers, shares tangible case studies, disseminates best practices, and highlights practical tools. While recognising the enduring utility of these resources, stakeholders are now encouraged to build upon existing insights and embrace increasingly sophisticated, holistic, and human-centric opportunities to unlock the next level of industry transformation across the entire value chain.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 is an openly accessible resource and available to download at the GFA’s website

• Sales Volume rose 3% QoQ and 2% YoY to 3.55MT
• Adjusted EBITDA of $366M, a rise of 32% QoQ and a decline of 2% YoY
• Operating cash flows of $184M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.12
• Reported EPS of THB0.17

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported an improved quarterly performance as the prolonged destocking trend showed further signs of easing. During the quarter, the company progressed its IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to enhance earnings quality and transform its business to emerge stronger from the downturn in global chemical markets.

Indorama Ventures’ reported Adjusted EBITDA1  of $366 million in 1Q24, a 32% increase QoQ and a 2% decline YoY. Sales volume grew 3% QoQ as the widespread customer destocking that sapped demand through 2023 shows signs of a gradual recovery across all sectors, partially offset by a winter freeze in the U.S. The result was supported by lower utilities costs in Europe, Red Sea-related supply chain disruptions that benefited the company’s import parity advantages, and favorable shale gas economics that bolstered profitability in the U.S.

Indorama Ventures expects the recovery in volumes to continue through 2024, albeit at a gradual pace as destocking normalizes and the approaching summer supports demand. However, the overall landscape for the global chemical industry remains challenging due to excess capacity builds, as well due to persistent inflation and high interest rates which weigh on industry spreads and continue to impair profitability, especially across the polyester value chain. Our HVA segment ‘Indovinya’ is progressing well into the second quarter post the easing of destocking and anticipating a healthy 2024.

The company’s experienced management remains intensely focused on managing costs, optimizing competitiveness, and maintaining high liquidity. Indorama Ventures’ diverse geographical footprint is a key advantage in the current low-margin environment, allowing its businesses to maintain their strong market premium, supported by protection from trade and non-trade barriers.

In 1Q, the company made headway with its IVL 2.0 three-year plan to leverage its global leadership position and forge a new era of opportunity amid significant structural changes in chemical markets. Under the evolved strategy, which the company outlined at its annual Capital Markets Day in March, Indorama Ventures is optimizing assets, reducing debt, and focusing on generating free cash flow to deliver enhanced shareholder returns. Today, 70% of the company's revenue has deployed the SAPS/4HANA ERP and is using the infrastructure to enhance digital procurement, sales excellence, and integration of supply chains across the business. The company believes these AI tools will improve productivity and costs, as well as release working capital in line with its modernization strategy.

As part of IVL 2.0, the company is optimizing 7 sites, including the ongoing evaluation of its PTA/PET operation in the Netherlands. It has also made significant progress in its program to refinance $1.1 billion of debt within the first half of 2024 to ensure ample liquidity. Recent capital raisings include a $255 million ‘Ninja loan’, a THB 10 billion debenture, a $100M bi-lateral loan, and this week’s successful close of a $500 million syndicated loan – achieved at lower-than-average spreads compared to previous issuances.

To unlock value, Indorama Ventures is preparing its packaging and surfactants businesses for IPOs. From 1Q24, the Indovinya segment (previously named ‘Integrated Oxides and Derivatives’) is focused on developing its attractive downstream surfactants operations as a separate segment. The segment’s Intermediate Chemicals business, consisting of shale base integrated Ethylene MEG, MTBE and merchant Purified EO assets, have been moved under the Combined PET (CPET) segment where they are a natural fit.

Segment Performances
In 1Q24, CPET segment (including Intermediate Chemicals) posted Adjusted EBITDA of $249 million, a 34% gain QoQ and 4% YoY as supply chain disruptions and a consequent spike in global ocean freight rates supported high prices and margins, and as Western markets benefited from lower energy costs. The Indovinya segment reported a stable Adjusted EBITDA of $70 million, impacted by the winter freeze in the U.S and a mini turnaround at a PO/PG plant. The Fibers segment achieved a remarkable 73% increase in Adjusted EBITDA to $39 million QoQ, and 2% YoY, as destocking waned across all three business verticals and drove an 8% QoQ increase in volume.