From the Sector

• BTE-Positionspapier überarbeitet

Zahlreiche Modehändler engagieren sich auf kommunaler und Landes-Ebene gegen die stetige Expansion von Factory Outlet Center (FOC) oder Designer Outlet Center (DOC). Denn obwohl die FOC/DOC ein Einzugsgebiet von oftmals 100 bis 200 km vorsehen, liegen etliche existierende und noch geplante Standorte der Ansiedlungsvorhaben zum Teil nur wenige Autominuten voneinander entfernt. Dazu zählen auch Outlet Center unmittelbar hinter der gemeinsamen Grenze z.B. in Frankreich, den Niederlanden oder Polen.

Vor diesem Hintergrund hat der BTE vor kurzem ein schon seit Jahren existierendes „Positionspapier zu den Auswirkungen von Factory Outlet Center auf den deutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsmarkt“ überarbeitet und aktualisiert. Damit zeigt der BTE die Auswirkungen von FOCs auf den Textil- und Bekleidungsmarkt in Deutschland auf, und zwar sowohl für den stationären Textileinzelhandel als auch für die Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie.

Aus den in dem Positionspapier aufgeführten Gründen spricht sich der BTE gegen die Ansiedlung weiterer Fabrikverkaufszentren in Deutschland aus! Angesichts der bereits bestehenden Flächenüberhänge im Textileinzelhandel, des Warenüberangebotes und des differenzierten Distributionsnetzes, sind weitere FOC abzulehnen. Jeder zusätzliche qm an Verkaufsfläche verschärft die bekannten Probleme einer Branche, in der viele Unternehmen aus Industrie und Handel ums Überleben kämpfen.

Der BTE erkennt dabei durchaus den aktuellen Strukturwandel, der zu der Ausbreitung von FOC geführt hat. Dieser muss sich aber vernünftig entwickeln und darf bewährte Vertriebskonzepte einer Branche nicht irreparabel schädigen. Und der Wandel muss innerhalb der geltenden wettbewerbsrechtlichen, städtebaulichen und baurechtlichen Rahmenbedingungen erfolgen.

Hinweis: Das Positionspapier kann eingesehen und downgeloaded werden unter http://www.bte.de (Rubrik: Fachthemen; Stichwort: Factory Outlet Center).

Auf Veranlassung des BTE hat die Zentrale zur Bekämpfung unlauteren Wettbewerbs am Landgericht München mit Erfolg einen Prozess gegen Amazon wegen der Verwendung des Begriffs „Daunenjacke“ für eine zu 100 Prozent aus Kunstfasern (Polyester) gefüllte Jacke geführt. Auch der Zusatz „Primaloft“ war nicht geeignet, eine Irreführung der Verbraucher auszuschließen.

Für die Richter wurde damit in der Werbung eine zur Täuschung geeignete Angabe über wesentliche Merkmale der Ware gemacht, so dass ein Verstoß gegen § 5 UWG vorlag. Das Landgericht München hat Amazon daher wegen Irreführung der Verbraucher zur Unterlassung verurteilt (Az  17 HK O 2290/17).

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, recently entered in a partnership with Carlin, the world’s very first trend forecasting agency founded in 1947, aiming to promote the use of Archroma’s exclusive color inspiration tools to fashion designers and stylists in France.

Under the terms of the new partnership, Carlin will use the ‘Color Atlas by Archroma®’ color references in the Carlin’s 16 publications per year, including the InMouv trend books. Carlin will also use the Color Atlas during its color workshops, and Carlin and Archroma will organize regular conferences and events for fashion brands in major French cities, including Paris.
The partnership agreement also appoints Carlin as Archroma’s sales agent for its color management products in France, including the Color Atlas by Archroma® color library and related tools. Archroma’s color management services will continue to be sold through the existing channels.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® uses complementary tools to enhance creative possibilities for designers and brands. It incorporates the six-volume ‘Color Atlas’ Library, with over 4,300 colors on cotton poplin; the two-volume ‘Color Atlas Compact’ for improved portability; and the ‘Color Atlas Online’ which enables you to take an image with your smartphone and identify the closest Color Atlas shades.
“Just like designers, brands, retailers, manufacturers and Carlin, we are passionate about color trends,” explains Chris Hipps, Global Director of Archroma Color Management Services. “We redefined the concept of a color library for the textile industry with our Color Atlas, an essential and inspirational reference that gives creatives options that they had never dreamed of. With our new partnership with Carlin we’ll be able to share our Color Atlas and our passion for color with a new audience.”

“Carlin is at the forefront of trend forecasting,” explains Edouard Keller, Head of International Sales, Carlin. “And that includes the use of color. Archroma offers a suite of services and tools that are both practical and instantly available for our clients; this is what makes their solution so attractive to us. Our partnership with Archroma will empower us to share the advanced Color Atlas and associated tools with creatives throughout France, helping them to unlock their creativity with color.”

Der  BTE unterstützt den Modehandel bei der Vorbereitung seiner Order mit verschiedenen Publikationen und Hilfsmitteln. Die wichtigsten im Überblick:

• „Saisonplanung – Saisonverlauf: Aktion versus Reaktion“: Behandelt werden u. a. das aktuelle Käuferverhalten, der zielgruppengerechte Sortimentsaufbau, der Modegrad im Saisonverlauf, Limitverteilung und Liefertaktung, das Führen von Lieferantengesprächen sowie die Umsetzung am POS. 68 Seiten, Preis: 45 EUR brutto zzgl. Versand.
• „Limit im Griff – Ertrag in der Kasse": Aufgezeigt werden praxisgerecht die Struktur und Vorgehensweise einer modernen Limitplanung, u.a. auch das Thema „Flächenlimite“. 140 Seiten, Preis: 48,15 EUR brutto zzgl. Versand.
• „Handels-Kalkulator“: Mit der BTE-Kalkulations-App lässt sich der Verkaufspreis (brutto und netto mit unterschiedlichen Mehrwertsteuersätzen), der Netto-Einkaufspreis sowie die Handelsspanne als Aufschlag bzw. Abschlag errechnen. So können beim Einkauf schnell und komfortabel Kalkulationen überprüft oder neu berechnet werden. Erhältlich zum Preis von 5,99 EUR im App- bzw. Play-Store.

Hinweis: Publikationen und Downloads beim ITE-Verlag, E-Mail: itebestellungen@bte.de, BTE-Webshop www.shop.bte.de. Mitglieder im Einzelhandelsverband erhalten – bei vorheriger Registrierung – einen Preisnachlass in Höhe von 20 Prozent.

As society becomes increasingly digital while cyber threats are multiplying, trust is immensely precious to everyone, not only to consumers but also to companies and organizations whose business relies on digitalization. This highlights the importance of a versatile and trusted partner that focuses on cybersecurity.

Reflecting Nixu’s purpose, “we keep the digital society running", Nixu growth strategy focuses particularly on cybersecurity services for digital business transformation. Developing and delivering comprehensive cybersecurity services that enable clients to utilize, in a safe manner, the opportunities provided by the Industrial Internet of Things and Digital Identities is a key priority for Nixu.
Today, Nixu reached an important milestone and transferred to the Official List of Nasdaq Helsinki stock exchange and continues on its journey to become the number one choice as a cybersecurity partner for digitalization and the best workplace for cybersecurity professionals.

“When we first got listed on Nasdaq First North in 2014 we were quite small Finnish consultancy, in less than four years we have succeeded in transforming to an international cybersecurity services company and multiplied our size”, said Petri Kairinen, CEO of Nixu. “This is still only the beginning, as the demand for cybersecurity services raises exponentially. The listing on the Official List will enable us to reach further international growth funding which will help us uphold the fast growth speed. Of course, our global enterprise clients will also appreciate the transparency and quality associated with being a listed company.“

Packaging solution made of 100% plastic recyclate delivers circular economy proof point
Borealis, a leading provider of innovative solutions in the fields of polyolefins, base chemicals and fertilizers, announces the successful launch of a new packaging solution produced entirely with post-consumer recycled (PCR) material. Developed in close collaboration with the German consumer and industrial goods company Henkel and two additional value chain partners, this truly sustainable packaging solution is further evidence of how mtm plastics GmbH, a member of the Borealis Group, is helping increase the circularity of plastics. The launch has significance for the consumer goods industry because the robustness of this new packaging solution provides further evidence that plastic recyclate is indeed suitable for a variety of demanding packaging applications, in this case a popular adhesive brand marketed by Henkel.

Value chain collaboration yields plastic bottle and nozzle composed of 100% PCR material
In 2016, Borealis acquired leading German recycler mtm plastics GmbH, which is now a member of the Borealis Group. By leveraging their respective areas of expertise and decades of experience as a virgin polyolefins producer and “upcycler”, respectively, Borealis and mtm plastics are exploring new growth opportunities with joint forces.

A success story originating from this exploration is a recently completed pilot project with Henkel, the global leader for adhesives, sealants and functional coatings. The companies have worked to develop a new packaging solution based on recycled material for the Made-at-Home all-purpose glue bottle and cap, which Henkel is marketing under its well-known Pattex brand.  The aim was to replace the virgin plastic material traditionally used for this packaging with a recyclate-based resin. The resin, however, had to fulfil the diverse material demands for packaging of an adhesive product.

After extensive and joint application development, a new bottle was developed with the proprietary mtm product Purpolen® PE, a high-quality polyethylene regranulate produced by mtm at its facilities in Niedergebra, Germany. Value chain partner KKT Kaller Kunststoff Technik GmbH, a plastics processor also based in Germany, manufactured the bottles. For the three separate components of the adjustable applicator nozzle, which is used for both filigree and wide-area gluing, high-quality Purpolen® PP polypropylene regranulate produced by mtm was identified as the ideal solution. German plastic components manufacturer bomo trendline Technik GmbH produced the applicator nozzles.

The new Pattex Made-at-Home packaging solution successfully passed extensive application tests, including a three-month storage test and other tests of mechanical properties. It was launched on the European market in 2018.

“Our commitment to leadership in sustainability is deeply embedded in our companies´ values,” explained Matthias Schaefer, Project Manager for Global Packaging Engineering at Henkel Adhesive Technologies. “We are at the forefront of the industry when it comes to new sustainability strategies in packaging.  Thus, we identified Pattex Made-at-Home as a candidate for exploring the use of recyclate instead of virgin plastics. This constructive collaboration with our partners proves the viability of 100% PCR material for an adhesive product like Made-at Home. It also underscores our efforts at Henkel to drive leadership in sustainability in the consumer goods sector.”

“As a virgin polyolefins producer, Borealis is thrilled to be among the pioneers in using plastic recyclate in new applications,” says Günter Stephan, Head of Borealis Circular Economy Solutions. “Even though momentum is gaining in the drive to increase the circularity of plastics, we still need to prove without a doubt within the industry that using recyclates – and even 100% PCR – is a suitable and effective option, even for demanding applications. Thanks to this successful value chain cooperation with our partners Henkel, KKT and bomo, we are giving plastics a second life and are thus one step closer to the goal of a more circular economy of plastics.”
 

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, will be presenting its innovative and sustainable denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans Vietnam 2018, on June 27 and 28.
From fiber to finish, Archroma offers a scope of possibilities for effects and colors, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions. Archroma is a recognized leader in integrated solutions, offering best-in-class auxiliaries for bespoke process packages.
Visitors will be able to discover solutions designed to make denim in a more sustainable and responsible way, in particular:
DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan.

• Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.
• Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process! Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.
The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  Colors other than blue have been tricky to achieve in the past. With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can expand their color horizons with this range of six dyes especially designed to produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors. They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles. At the booth, Archroma will display an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a universe of greys and deep black and navies.
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
As consumers increasingly aspire to functional, beautiful and meaningful clothing, brands and manufacturers are increasingly interested in the environmental impact of the denim industry. Archroma has placed sustainability at the heart of its innovation process to create products and processes that improve the industry’s sustainability.
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Brand owners and retailers around the world are taking action to evaluate the environmental impact of textile treatment, dyeing and finishing processes in response to consumer concerns.

Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“Innovation and sustainability go hand in hand,” says Paul O’Prey, Head of Sales, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma, Vietnam. “While developing new products and services, we always consider the environmental impact so they are as sustainable as possible. This can be seen in our innovative and eco-advance products, such as the water-saving ADVANCED DENIM and the aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.”

Immer noch zahlen viele Textileinzelhändler Kreditkarten-Disagios von mehr als zwei Prozent. Gemäß einer aktuellen EHI-Umfrage werden kleinen und mittleren Fachgeschäften aktuell durchschnittliche Sätze bei VISA und Mastercard von rund 2,1 Prozent in Rechnung gestellt, selbst Disagios bis zu drei Prozent kommen noch vor.

Dabei lassen sich über die beim BTE angesiedelte European Fashion Group (EFG) in diesem Bereich leicht Kosten sparen. Über deren Kooperationspartner können Kreditkarten-Disagiosätze ab ca. 0,82 Prozent für private Kreditkarten von Mastercard und VISA realisiert werden. Reduzierte Transaktionsgebühren und Terminalmieten sowie Informationen, wie solche Vereinbarungen am vorteilhaftesten zu gestalten sind, sind weitere geldwerte Vorteile. Gegenüber den o. g. „Normalwerten“ ist da schnell ein Prozentpunkt gespart, was bei einem Kreditkartenumsatz von z. B. 80.000 EUR einer Summe von 800 EUR entspricht.

Aktuelle Informationen über das gesamte EFG-Angebots-Spektrum, das zahlreiche Sonderkonditionen von EDV-Warenwirtschaft über Visual Merchandising bis hin zum Warenbezug (günstiger, gewichtsunabhängiger Paketbezug und –versand sowie Hängeversand) enthält, sind bei der EFG-Geschäftsstelle erhältlich. Alle Sonderkonditionen können gegen eine geringe Jahresgebühr genutzt werden. Weitere Informationen bei der EFG, Frau Fonrobert/Frau Bausch, Tel. 0221/921509-12, Fax –10, E-Mail: efg@bte.de oder im Internet unter www.efg-info.de.

FILPUCCI GROUP proceeds along the path of commitment towards an ever more responsible innovation. The group takes part in the 83rd edition of Pitti Filati (June 27-29, 2018) with unique products, high-end knitwear and creative yarns, all resulting from the authentic Smart Innovation the company has been long committed to.
 
Research, style and fashion are key words for the world-renown Tuscan company, which unveils an always more responsible approach both at a corporate level and in terms of offer.
Here are some key elements to prove Filpucci’s relentless commitment:

• The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and OCS (Organic Content Standard) certifications obtained by the Filpucci dyeing plant add to the Clear to Wear (CTW) standard developed by Inditex Group and achieved in 2014 and to the Detox commitment, which was signed in February, 2016.
• Not only the best raw materials, but also an established knowhow in the fields of dyeing and finishing, always under the key concept of Responsible Innovation. This concept extends to each and every FILPUCCI collection and their ever-increasing offer, the roughly twenty innovative new items, the Woolen line of carded yarns and the real spearhead of premium fashion, the Collection. Among this season’s new offer: Baby Camel Re.Verso™, RWS- certified merino organic wool, Re.Verso™ cashmere, organic silks and FSC-certified viscose.
• The achievement of further certifications such as the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) for viscose shows the care and respect towards the ecosystem as a whole, guaranteeing a product derived from a forest or a plantation forest in the respect of strict environmental, social and economic standards. The RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) finally guarantees the use of wool coming from livestock managed under rigorous criteria oriented towards the wellbeing of animals and the reduction of environmental impact.
• Filpucci Group is all about a constant vocation towards new generation values and a reliable, traceable and transparent manufacturing process, as shown by the Re.Verso™ circular economy supply chain, of which the group is a unique ambassador in the field of high-end/low-impact knitwear yarns.

With absolute quality always in mind, FILPUCCI GROUP represents a corporate model that has made of sustainability a real mission, embarking on complex paths that have brought great results with fashionable textile solutions lead by ethnical and sustainable values. Thanks to this, Filpucci’s products have become part of Patagonia Collections, an important acknowledging from the brand’s part, whose managers stated: “We are always on the hunt for the highest performing, lowest impact materials. We were thrilled to find Re.Verso ™ (95/5 transformed) Cashmere yarn from Filpucci. It allowed us to create a range of products with the insulative and soft properties of cashmere while adhering to our mission statement; build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm.”
FILPUCCI GROUP’s commitment is evident and it moves forward thanks to the passion towards responsible and innovative paths that contribute to turning the group into a reliable partner, symbol of quality and excellence.

Filpucci is also a C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) partner.