From the Sector

• Lenzing sets net-zero CO2 emissions target by 2050
• Reduction of specific CO2 emissions by 50 percent until 2030
• Investment of more than EUR 100 mn to combat 1.3 Mt of CO2 emissions
• Commitment to follow the Science Based Targets concept

Lenzing, member of the CEO Climate Leaders Group of the World Economic Forum and a signatory to the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, will drastically reduce its CO2 footprint. The Lenzing Group will invest EUR 100 mn over the coming years to reduce carbon emissions both inside its operational boundaries (scope 1+2) and in its supply chain (scope 3). Due to its ambitious CO2 emission reduction strategy, the Lenzing Group will further contribute towards helping customers to transition their business to a lower CO2 base.

A first milestone is set for 2030, when Lenzing plans to reduce CO2 emissions per ton of product by almost 50 percent (scope 1+2 and 3) compared to a 2017 baseline. The total CO2 reduction of all the planned initiatives will yield 1.3 Mt.

Kornit Digital market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced Kornit Konnect, its new cloud-based, mobile workflow software platform that enables businesses to maximize productivity of their digital printing solutions. This is the first phase in Kornit’s implementation of its industry vision of textile design, decoration and production being fueled by data-driven insights and performance metrics.

The italian Company Filidea s.r.l., specialized in technical and performing products made out of natural, synthetic and artificial fibers, announces the acquisition of Hoftex CoreTech GmbH from the German group Hoftex. The agreement was signed on May 18th, the closing time for this acquisition is fixed on September 1st. Through this acquisition, Filidea confirms its international dimension, consolidates its leadership within the sector of technical yarns and expands its presence in the European territory.

At ITMA 2019, Rieter showcases innovations for all four spinning processes that are established on the market. These innovations are designed to reduce raw material, energy and labor costs, while also increasing productivity during production of the yarn quality required in each case. Solutions to increase the flexibility of the spinning mill are also presented. In addition, Rieter presents two solutions for the production of innovative yarns.

A new generation of ecological PU coatings with water vapour permeability

Today, nearly all “breathable“ PU direct coatings are applied from solvent systems. These products partly contain very harmful and environmentally hazardous solvents.
To solve the “solvent“ problem, RUDOLF GROUP developed ECO-VENT®:

A water-based coating solution that opens up new perspectives for numerous coated fabrics, which are permeable to water vapour and, thus, breathable.
The optimum PFC-free, waterproof and breathable protective clothing can be finished with RUDOLF’s cluster of supreme technologies:

• Outer fabric finished with BIONIC-FINISH®ECO
• Direct coating made from ECO-VENT®
• Lining with moisture control due to hydrophilic HYDROCOOL®

DIVERSITY AND UNIQUENESS
In einer Gegenwart, die immer mehr von Widersprüchen und steigender Komplexität bestimmt wird, verlieren starre Regeln und gelerntes Systemdenken zunehmend an Bedeutung. Die Zukunft lässt sich kaum noch linear aus der Vergangenheit ableiten, vielmehr entwickelt sich Zeitgeist im Spannungsfeld von überlieferten Traditionen und neuen Denkansätzen weiter. Visionen, neue Konzepte und ein nachhaltiger Lebensstil müssen künftig genauso in Einklang gebracht werden wie Digitalisierung auf der einen und Sehnsucht nach Authentizität auf der anderen Seite. Die Präsenz sozialer Medien verändert visuelle Wahrnehmungen und beschleunigt die Entstehung neuer ästhetischer Codes. Damit verliert die Idee einer ausschließlich auf Minimalismus und Reduktion basierenden Moderne an Bedeutung, während gleichzeitig die Toleranz gegenüber neuen Gestaltungsansätzen, die auch das Laute, optisch Intensive mit einbeziehen, steigt. Die Erweiterung der Perspektive zwingt zum kuratorischen Prinzip, um aus der Fülle an Möglichkeiten das Relevante herauszufiltern. Sich bewusst zu entscheiden und eine Haltung einzunehmen, ist eine Notwendigkeit, die nicht nur ästhetische Fragen, sondern auch die großen gesellschaftlichen Themen der Zukunft berührt.

Diese Zeitgeist-Aspekte spiegeln sich in drei Stilmentalitäten wider, die dem Kollektionsaufbau zugrunde liegen. Sie reichen von sartorialem Anspruch über den gekonnten Mix aus zeitgemäßer Klassik und ungezwungenen Elementen bis hin zu einem urbanen, kosmopolitischen Habit. Das Ergebnis ist eine Kollektion, die sich trotz ihrer Vielschichtigkeit zu einem klaren Gesamtbild fügt und in allen Aspekten – unabhängig von Lieferterminen und thematischen Schwerpunkten – optimal miteinander kompatibel ist.

Archroma today announced that Vietnam-based Tuong Long Co. Ltd (“Tuong Long”) is the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.

Tuong Long Co. Ltd is a textile manufacturer based in Vietnam, whose plant is located near Ho Chi Minh City and employs 600 people producing up to 18,000,000 meters of fabric per year. Tuong Long manufactures and trades woven fabrics, particularly denim and khaki, stretch and non-stretch, for apparel brands in the USA, Japan, Europe, Korea, Taiwan, and Vietnam.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

STAMFORD, Conn. – At this year's Paris Airshow [Le Bourget, June 17-23] Hexcel will promote a range of carbon fibers and composite materials used to manufacture high-performance weight-saving structures in civil aircraft, engines, helicopters, and space applications.

Visitors to the Hexcel stand will see an Integrated Wing Panel demonstrator and an I-beam, both made with HiTape® carbon fiber reinforcements. HiTape® dry carbon reinforcements were developed for the automated lay-up of preforms and to complement a new generation of HiFlow™ resin systems, producing high-quality aerospace structures using the resin infusion process. The reinforcements incorporate a toughening veil to enhance mechanical properties and meet the structural requirements for aerospace parts. The I-Beam was manufactured using C-RTM (Compression Resin Transfer Molding) and was injected with Hexcel’s RTM6 resin in a process taking less than five minutes.

Hexcel honeycomb saves weight and enhances stiffness in composite structures, and the company provides a range of engineered core solutions that enable highly contoured parts with precision profiling to be produced to exact customer specifications. A sample part made from aluminum FlexCore® that is CNC machined on both sides and formed and stabilized with both peel ply and flyaway layers of stabilization will be on display.

Another honeycomb innovation is Hexcel’s Acousti-Cap® broadband noise-reducing honeycomb that significantly improves acoustic absorption in aircraft engine nacelles. The acoustic treatment may be positioned at a consistent depth and resistance within the core or can be placed in a pattern of varying depths and/or resistances (Multi-Degrees of Freedom and 3 Degrees Of Freedom), offering an acoustic liner that is precisely tuned to the engine operating conditions. These technologies have been tested at NASA on a full engine test rig and meet all 16 design conditions without trade-offs.
Another Hexcel technology to benefit aircraft engines is HexShield™ honeycomb which provides high-temperature resistance in nacelles. By inserting a thermally resistant material into honeycomb cells, Hexcel provides a core product with unique heat-shielding capabilities that allows for the potential reuse of material after a fire.

With 50 years of experience behind its comprehensive range of high-strength, high-strain PAN-based carbon fibers, Hexcel continues to innovate and is introducing two new fibers to its portfolio. HexTow® HM50 combines high modulus and high tensile strength, making it ideal for commercial and defense aircraft and engines. HexTow® 85 was developed specifically to replace rayon-based carbon fiber for ablative applications.

Another area of expertise that uses HexTow® carbon fiber is additive manufacturing, where Hexcel uses PEKK ultrahigh performance polymers and HexAM™ technology to manufacture carbon reinforced 3D printed parts. This innovative process provides a weight-saving solution for intricate parts in highly demanding aerospace, satellite and defense applications. HexPEKK™ structures offer significant weight, cost and time-to-market reductions, replacing traditional cast or machined metallic parts with a new technology.

Later this year Hexcel will open a joint research and development laboratory in Les Avenières (Isère), France with Arkema to develop carbon fiber-reinforced thermoplastic prepreg tapes for aerospace, space and defense applications. A spool of thermoplastic prepreg tape will be on display on Hexcel’s stand to showcase this cost-effective technology that enables lightweight parts to be produced in faster production cycles for future generations of aircraft.

Hexcel’s stand is located next to Hexcel’s official distributor for aerospace products, Groupe Gazechim Composites. In 2018, Hexcel and Gazechim formed a joint venture, HexCut Services, to provide aerospace and defense customers with customized kitting services that include Hexcel’s innovative carbon fiber prepreg, fabrics and adhesives. Pre-cut kits save customers time and investment, reduce inventory and minimize material losses through scrap reduction.

TINTEX Textiles announced its acceptance as a participant of the United Nations Global Compact initiative - a voluntary leadership platform for the development, implementation and disclosure of responsible business practices. A real demonstration of the “Naturally Advanced” ongoing commitment to responsible business action. Expertly controlled processing, and advanced dyeing and finishing solutions drive material innovation to create responsible supply chains to transform fashion systems.
 
“Being part of the UN GLOBAL COMPACT means to publically commit with all the principles that are the basis of our business” – [ Ana Silva Tavares Head of Sustainability ]

Berlin -  Das Vernetzungsprojekt ZusaNnah für mehr Chancengleichheit von Frauen in MINT-Berufen wird nach zweieinhalbjähriger Förderung unter veränderten Vorzeichen fortgeführt. Das hat die Geschäftsführerin der Zuse-Gemeinschaft, Dr. Annette Treffkorn, anlässlich des Abschlusses des staatlichen Förderprojekts zum 31. Mai 2019 angekündigt. „Zentrale Ergebnisse von ZusaNnah wie Mentoring-Programm und Toolbox haben sich als nützliche Instrumente für Vernetzung und Personalentwicklung bewährt“, betont Dr. Treffkorn.

ZusaNnah wurde als Verbundprojekt der Zuse-Gemeinschaft mit den Deutschen Instituten für Textil- und Faserforschung (DITF) und dem Institut für Diversity Studies in den Ingenieurwissenschaften (IDS) der Universität Stuttgart durchgeführt. Bei der ZusaNnah-Abschluss-Veranstaltung in Stuttgart betonte Prof. Meike Tilebein vom IDS der Universität Stuttgart den Stellenwert von Diversity Management für Personalabteilungen. „Diversity Management ist vom Minderheitenschutz zum Wettbewerbsvorteil mutiert“, sagte Prof. Tilebein. Als aktuelle Entwicklungen identifizierte sie u.a. flexiblere Arbeitszeitkonzepte sowie die Auflösung traditioneller Berufsbilder durch Trends wie Cloudworking und neue Geschäftsmodelle wie Co-Creation von Produkten gemeinsam mit Kunden. „Unter dem Vorzeichen radikaler Innovationen in der Forschung und am Markt stellt sich auch die Frage nach Chancengleichheit immer neu“, so Prof. Tilebein.

Erfolgreiches Mentoring-Programm

Um über solche Trends und deren Einfluss auf Berufsbild und persönliche Karriere zu reflektieren, bietet das Mentoring-Programm von ZusaNnah Gelegenheit zum Austausch. Das Feedback auf dieses Angebot war sehr positiv, wie die Evaluierung am Ende des Förderprojekts zeigte. So konnten die Mentees vom Erfahrungsvorsprung der Kolleginnen anderer Institute ebenso profitieren wie von einem guten Draht zu ihnen. „Der Erfahrungsaustausch im Mentoring-Programm unterstützt Wissenschaftlerinnen im Beruf und jenseits des Arbeitsplatzes“, bilanziert Projektreferentin Melanie Gramlich von der Zuse-Gemeinschaft. Als Herausforderung wurde zuweilen die räumliche Entfernung zwischen Mentorinnen und Mentees in den über das Bundesgebiet verteilten Instituten der Zuse-Gemeinschaft genannt.

100 Maßnahmen in der Toolbox

Neben dem direkten Austausch von Wissenschaftlerinnen sind Online-Tools ein wichtiger Teil des Projekts. Die ZusaNnah-Toolbox ist im Laufe des zweieinhalbjährigen Projekts auf einen Bestand von rund 100 Maßnahmen gewachsen, die in der Praxis an den jeweiligen Forschungsinstituten gut umsetzbar sind. Der Online-Werkzeugkasten fächert sich auf in die Aspekte Personal/Nachwuchs, Vereinbarkeit von Beruf, Familie und Privatleben sowie Organisationskultur. Er wird den mehr als 70 Instituten der Zuse-Gemeinschaft auch weiterhin zur Verfügung stehen.