From the Sector

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025. Abstract submission is now open.

In 2024, 214 participants enjoyed two conference days in Cologne or online. The highlights were 40 presentations with lively panel discussions afterwards, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year”, an exhibition, the poster session and plenty of networking possibilities. All of this will be repeated in 2025, including new topics, new speakers and new inputs. The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025” will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications, e.g. textiles from renewable fibres, nonwovens such as wet wipes and composites, hygiene and packaging. The conference will further address topics like circular economy, fibre-to-fibre recycling and sustainable carbon cycles, biosynthetics, new technologies and feedstocks.

Call for Abstracts
Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Innovations
The conference will conclude with the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation 2025” whose winner can join the ranks of amazing innovations. The deadline for innovation submissions is 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.
cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for posters
The poster exhibition is highly anticipated event at the conference. Poster submissions are open until 31 January 2025.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

Trützschler’s next-generation carding machine entered the market in January 2024. The machines have achieved great results during tests with customers in Türkiye and in other countries. It achieved up to 40 % higher productivity while reducing energy consumption by up to -18 %.

Higher productivity, less energy consumption
Mayfil Tekstil is a leading company in the Turkish textile industry for the production of textured yarn. It is headquartered in Nilüfer/Bursa. Founded in 2005, it has grown rapidly by prioritizing customer satisfaction. In 2022, Mayfil invested in a modern vortex airjet spinning facility that can produce up to 35 tons per day. And the company was keen to take a close look at the TC 30i for man-made fibers to explore its potential to drive progress toward Mayfil’s ambitious growth plans. In February 2024, Mayfil Tekstil conducted tests with the TC 30i. The next-generation carding machine produced 140 kg/h viscose, which is more than 40 % higher than the 95 kg/h Mayfil produces with the current benchmark. The new carding machine also decreased electricity consumption by 18 %. Based on these results, Mayfil is purchasing further TC 30i cards.

Results confirmed
Göl Iplik Şeremet Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S., located in Inegöl Bursa, operates three factories that deliver a variety of high-quality products, with a specialization in blended yarns. Investment in modern equipment and pioneering new products that expand its portfolio are at the heart of Göl Iplik’s success across almost four decades. Göl Iplik also tested the TC 30i for man-made fibers in early 2024. This Trützschler customer took a close look at the TC 30i during rigorous viscose trials. The TC 30i achieved a 40 % higher productivity rate with the same level of quality, while consuming 15 % less power. Göl Iplik now intends to include the TC 30i in its future investment strategy.

Benefits of the TC 30i

1. Best quality from any raw material: High levels of productivity and yarn quality thanks to 35 % more active flats, the longest carding length in market and the T-GO automatic carding gap optimizer.
2. Operator-independent performance: Consistent results without relying on manual operators thanks to automatic, real-time optimization of the carding gap with T-GO.
3. Value-adding waste handling: Innovative waste suction system collects and separates different types of waste. More than 50 % of card waste can be reused or sold to third parties for an attractive price.

Proparco has announced a €70 million senior loan to RE&UP Recycling Technologies, the circulartech textile recycling venture of SANKO Group. This investment will enhance RE&UP's capacity to scale Next-Gen recycled fiber production while reducing both carbon and water footprints driving RE&UP to set a new standard for circularity in the textile industry.

SANKO Group, with over 120 years of industry experience, remains a key partner for Proparco. The loan will support the construction of a new textile-to-textile recycling facility in Gaziantep, featuring 8.4MW rooftop solar panels for self-consumption.

With the MAX GLASS ECO, the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles Business Unit offers a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard reinforcement textiles made from glass fibers, in particular non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry. The newcomer can be adapted to the requirements of different application areas thanks to various optional functions and combines short amortization times. At a maximum speed of 1,800 min-1, it produces up to 410 m/h at a working width of 101". This performance is very well received on the composite market. Since the launch of the MAX GLASS ECO at JEC World in March this year, several purchase agreements have already been signed.

Some machines are going to India, and a larger number has been ordered by Chinese customers. Even the demonstration models in the KARL MAYER GROUP customer centers in Changzhou and Chemnitz have already been sold. However, the MAX GLASS ECO at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Saxony can still be used for processing trials and performance tests until September.

There is also great interest in Eastern Europe. At Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt, for example, the new composite machine was a topic of numerous meetings with Ralf Schramm, Sales Manager at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien for this region. "I held many orientation discussions about the machine's performance. But there were also customers with specific purchase requests, including the Polish manufacturer of high-quality, professional solutions for the composites industry, Rymatex," says the sales professional.

The German companies Brückner, Groz-Beckert, the Karl Mayer Group and Thies invite representatives of the Brazilian textile industry to a symposium with presentations and discussion panels in Blumenau, Brazil, on August 21, 2024. The event will be held at NS Armazém, Fortaleza, Blumenau and will focus on the current demand trend for warp knitted elastic fabrics.

The aim of the symposium is to provide a platform where knowledge can be exchanged and cooperation intensified. The symposium offers a wide variety of technical presentations as well as best practice examples and showcases cutting-edge technologies and innovations in warp knitting technology.

Interactive sessions and discussion rounds promote exchange among participants and provide networking opportunities. The event language is Portuguese.

Those interested in attending the symposium may contact the sales representatives: Frank Bernhard or Fabricio Rampani (Brückner, Thies & Karl Mayer), or Diomar Gomes Vieira (Groz-Beckert) to register.

Everyday clothing may soon be able to capture and record body movements, according to new research published by the Universities of Bath and Bristol.

Harmless low voltages are passed through conductive threads which are stitched into garment seams to create electrical circuits. Their resistance changes with the movement of the wearer's body.
This work opens up new possibilities to make digital clothing which senses and captures movements much more accurately than is possible using current phones and smart watches.

The paper describing the new clothing concept, presented this week at the Designing Interactive Systems (DIS) conference in Copenhagen, lays the foundations for e-textile designers and clothing manufacturers to create cutting-edge garments that could enhance exercise, physiotherapy and rehabilitation.

Paper co-author Dr Adwait Sharma from the Department of Computer Science at the University of Bath said: "Our research focuses on integrating technology into everyday clothing to track the effectiveness of physiotherapy exercises done at home. Doing these exercises correctly to recover from injuries is crucial, but it's difficult to know if you're doing them properly alone.
“SeamSleeve helps address this challenge by enabling physiotherapists to monitor your progress remotely. This technology could be particularly beneficial for conditions like Multiple Sclerosis, where monitoring movement is essential.”

According to Dr Sharma, current fitness trackers often don’t provide enough detail for physiotherapy. SeamSleeve is unique in that it covers the entire arm, allowing it to capture important movement data.

“We’ve successfully developed a working system based on machine learning to track 12 different arm exercises using SeamSleeve,” said Dr Sharma. “This paves the way for exciting future remote physiotherapy and exercise monitoring applications."

Professor Mike Fraser from the University of Bristol’s School of Computer Science added: "We're excited by the opportunity for clothing manufacturers to implement our designs in sleeves and other garment seams.
“We've shown that common overlocked seams in standard garment constructions can do a good job of sensing movement. The design avoids the need for a separate power source by pairing the seam with a charging coil, drawing the energy wirelessly from a mobile phone placed in the pocket.

“This means advanced motion sensing garments could be made without altering existing manufacturing processes.

"We have also shown that smartphone apps using advanced Artificial Intelligence (AI) techniques can use this movement data to match body movement to specific postures or gestures such as physiotherapeutic exercises."

Achieving Borealis’ vision of leading a sustainable transformation through innovative plastics and base chemicals solutions to create a fully circular future requires fresh thinking. Through the Borealis Scientific Innovation Awards (BSIA), Borealis provides a platform for ideas that accelerate the circular transformation and encourages the dedication and diligence needed to drive sustainable progress.
 
This year, the BSIA will recognize peer-reviewed publications or theses (publication paper, Bachelor, Master, PHD, Postdoc) that describe an innovative idea within the focus area of new solutions for the sustainable production and use of plastics. This includes e.g. new catalysts, energy efficient polymerization processes, recycling of polymers and polymeric materials for energy transformation.  
 
The call for submissions is open thinkers from the professional and academic scientific communities, from entrepreneurs, engineers, chemical engineers and start-ups to university researchers. Applicants can submit their peer-reviewed publication or theses (publication paper, Bachelor, Master, PHD, Postdoc) until September 15, 2024 via the Borealis website.  
 
Upon submission, a panel of Borealis research representatives will review the applications and select three winners. The awardees will be invited to present their work in person at an award ceremony at the Borealis Innovation Headquarters in Linz, Austria.  
 
The awards consist of a certificate, a cash prize (EUR 5,000 for first place, EUR 2,000 for second place, and EUR 1,000 for third place), a Borealis-funded trip to Linz, Austria and, of course, the invaluable opportunity for exposure and networking.

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympic Games are just around the corner and a global sports frenzy is underway. However, intense summer workouts often lead to sportswear absorbing excessive sweat, becoming clingy and cumbersome, causing discomfort and potentially impacting performance. A research team from the School of Fashion and Textiles at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) has developed the iActive™ sportswear range which features a root-like liquid transport system and a skin-like active perspiration dissipater and utilises nature-inspired, anti-heat textile fabrics to expedite sweat removal, effectively reducing the weight and stickiness of activewear caused by sweat accumulation during exercise.

The human body has millions of sweat glands that are vital for regulating body temperature by dissipating sweat for evaporation to cool the skin’s surface. With unabating greenhouse gas emissions, the number of very hot days annually is expected to increase significantly. This will lead to elevated energy consumption and increased sweating during physical activity and outdoor labour. Even when wearing highly breathable clothes with good sweat-wicking properties, individuals may still experience discomfort due to excessive sweat accumulation.

A research team led by Dr SHOU Dahua, Limin Endowed Young Scholar in Advanced Textiles Technologies and Associate Professor of the School of Fashion and Textiles at PolyU, has invented the iActive™, intelligent, electrically activated sportswear with a nature-inspired active perspiration function.

Its nature-inspired technologies, including low-voltage-driven artificial “sweat glands” created by skin-like anti-heat textile fabrics and a root-like branching liquid transport system that aligns with the body’s sweat map, can actively and programmably remove sweat to a perspiration dissipater at the lower region of the sportswear. The all-textile sweat dissipater is compact and operates at a safe output voltage of approximately 5-9V, and its battery is easy to detach from the clothing, making it convenient for users to repeatedly wash the clothing by hand or in a washing machine to maintain hygiene. When the human body’s sweat rate is low, iActive™ can still be used independently without the battery.

Based on the optimised wettability pattern and gradient, the research team utilises a skin-like textile fabric to transport sweat one-way quickly and dissipate it from the inside to the outside. This feature reduces the stickiness and weight of clothing, improves breathability and ensures the garments remain dry and comfortable to wear. Experimental findings indicate that iActive™ creates a breathable and dry skin microclimate by dissipating sweat at a rate that is three times faster than the maximum human sweating rate. This innovation can also prevent discomfort from coldness and moisture after a workout. In comparison to traditional fabrics, the textile materials in iActive™ are 60% lighter and 50% less clingy when soaked, providing the wearer with all-round comfort and enabling sports enthusiasts and athletes to perform at their best.

Furthermore, a mobile app further aids personalised sweat management by wirelessly adjusting the sweat level of iActive™. This innovation is versatile and can be seamlessly integrated into a variety of textile materials to facilitate sustainable mass production. Beyond sportswear, iActive™ is also well-suited to protective clothing and workwear for individuals engaged in prolonged, high-intensity physical labour and outdoor occupations, including healthcare professionals, construction workers, firefighters, law enforcement officers and others, thereby significantly enhancing their work performance.

Dr Shou Dahua stated, “The extreme weather and high temperatures resulting from global warming have elevated the importance of heatstroke prevention and cooling measures on a global scale. Drawing on the vivid phenomena of thermal insulation and directed liquid flow in nature, we aim to foster innovation and sustainable advancement in garment manufacturing by inventing intelligent clothing and materials to address global challenges. We seek to harness the power of technology to infuse fresh perspectives into the traditional clothing industry, thereby enhancing its competitiveness.”

His research team has also developed a premium fabric named Omni-Cool-Dry™, drawing inspiration from volcano dwelling beetles. This fabric not only provides ultra-fast sweat dissipation and ensures all-day comfort with its dry and breathable features under dynamic thermal conditions, but also reflects solar radiation and emits body heat into the cold universe, enabling passive cooling. The team is working hard to leverage the benefits of both inventions to further enhance the sweat-dissipating and cooling capability of iActive™ sportswear.

Dr Shou Dahua, a core member of the PolyU Research Institute for Intelligent Wearable Systems and the Research Centre of Textiles for Future Fashion, has recently been bestowed with the 2023 Distinguished Achievement Award by The Fiber Society for his outstanding contributions to the fields of personal thermal and moisture management, intelligent wearables and soft robotics. The accolade is presented annually to an individual researcher worldwide. He has also received international innovation awards, including consecutive TechConnect Global Innovation Awards in 2021 and 2022. Moreover, his research papers have been published in various internationally renowned academic journals including Science Advances, PNAS, Advanced Functional Materials, and Advanced Energy Materials. Dr Shou will be chairing The Fiber Society Spring 2025 Conference at PolyU.

The summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris welcomed nearly 1,200 exhibitors from 26 countries. This season event was characterised by a number of new features and the dynamics remained satisfactory. Next event: February 10, 2025, in a partially renovated Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre for a session rich in initiatives.

The latest edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, offered in its full version with the Avantex and Leatherworld sectors, ended on July 3 with attendance levels down on the July 2023 session. Over and above a possible "Olympic Games effect" and its consequences on transport and accommodation costs in the capital, the current economic situation is prompting the show's organizers to explore all alternatives to adapt the offer to market demand. However, these results do not seem to have had any impact on the flow of business between visitors and exhibitors, who reported a fairly positive overall climate.

The dynamic on the booths remained steady and the exchanges satisfactory, as shown by several manufacturers particularly well established on the European market. Indian shirt manufacturer Sheraton Apparel, for example, made around thirty solid contacts over 3 days, and reported several serious approaches to African distributors. The same goes for SMIT, a Turkish company specialising in Made in Turkey sourcing, which was able to see its main European customers and open up new contacts with Canadian and Brazilian buyers.

An expanded offering
At the Near Sourcing Hub, the phygital sourcing space connected by QR Code to the B2B digital platform of Messe Frankfurt France partner FourSource, inquiries to exhibiting companies remained much the same as in 2023. The visitor profile, on the other hand, focused on buyers from networks of small multi-specialist boutiques looking for an original mid-to-top-range offering. It was in response to this market demand for differentiation that the show organizers decided to extend Apparel Sourcing's range to include new categories in the fashion accessories sector, such as jewelry and bags.

High-profile initiatives
Other innovations were also on show this summer. The yarn pavilion - a first conceived in collaboration with Yarn Expo, originally a Shanghai show run by Messe Frankfurt - showcased the expertise of Chinese, Indian, Pakistani and Taiwanese companies, while at the same time highlighting upstream products and services. At Avantex, where some twenty suppliers of solutions for more sustainable fashion were grouped together, the new Designer Hub enabled designers and buyers to discover some original initiatives, such as that of stylist Jean-Luc François' association, supported by Messe Frankfurt's Texpertise network, which trains people who are far from employment, or the 3D design studio Scotomalab.

Materra wins 2024 Avantex Fashion Pitch award
The Avantex Fashion Pitch jury has awarded the 2024 prize to Materra. This British start-up, founded in 2019, designs solutions to support the cotton cultivation adapted to climate change. At the other end of the chain, it offers brands a service designed on a Cotton-As-A-Service model that encourages them to source from the producers it supports. Materra will benefit from a €2,800 stand at Avantex Paris 2025 donated by Messe Frankfurt France, plus €2,000 from Texpertise Network, the textile sector network of the Messe Frankfurt Group, and 1 year's incubation at Foundry donated by IFA Paris, official partner of the competition.

A trendy area at Leatherworld
New for 2024, the Leatherworld sector inaugurated its Leather Trend area, developed in collaboration with publisher Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design centre. Designed around the expertise of Italian companies specialising in the manufacture of leather shoes and bags, this inspirational space presented the autumn-winter 25-26 trends through 4 creative axis built around the expression of simplicity, nature, dynamism (sportswear collections) and finally romanticism. Leather Trend was also an opportunity to discover the new leather tanning technology developed by Ecotan, which avoids the use of metals (Chrome) and chemicals in the leather preparation stages thanks to the use of vegetable tannins.

ISKO is taking part in the Kingpins Show in New York City. At the event taking place on 17 and 18 July at Pier 36, Basketball City, ISKO presents a selection from its diverse collections.

Attendees have the opportunity to explore a selection from ISKO’s main collection, alongside some of the company’s most innovative technologies and products. Each piece exemplifies ISKO’s commitment to blending sophisticated designs with sustainable practices.

The Main Collection is organized into five main macro groups:

• Inflexible: a range of rigid fabrics for contemporary needs, true to denim’s original heritage.
• Motion: combining comfort and an authentic look for good old rigid denim with freedom of movement.
• Extended: traditional denim aesthetic and its ultimate stretch expression. Elegance, treatments, and 4-way-stretch technologies.
• Elite: fabrics families where softness, shine, and silky feel reach their full potential.
• Momentum: unique finishes, intricate constructions, colored coatings, and special denim features.

Other highlights are:

• Casual Line: the premium experience showcasing a versatile and innovative woven fabric collection made with FSC® certified viscose and certified postconsumer recycled polyester.
• ISKO™ Luxury by PG: curated by Paolo Gnutti, this collection merges classic tastes with contemporary visions.

Finally, as ISKO’s FW 25-26 collection features RE&UP fibers, visitors can learn more about the circulartech company that recycles cotton, polyester and polycotton textile waste and transforms it into high-quality Next-Gen fibers, becoming the go-to alternative to virgin options.