From the Sector

Archroma has launched at the recent ITMA exhibition its new Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq, a water-based ultra-low VOC polyurethane (PU) polymer coating technology.

The innovation was developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

Coatings are used in the textile industry to achieve features such as waterproofness, flexibility, durability and UV resistance. With the growing demand for safer and more ecological products, water-based PU coatings are progressively prevailing as the preferred coating technology.

Reinach, Switzerland  - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes are especially suited for the coloration of polyester fibers and microfibers, and polyester/elastane blends, in exhaustion application.
The Foron® SP-WF dyes were developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product is at the core of Archroma's Fast Sport, a coloration system for polyester knitted sportswear, providing the best fastness in the shortest possible time with a reduced environmental footprint.
The Foron® SP-WF range which includes primary and ternary color grades has been developed to fulfil the high color wet fastness and performance requirements of sportswear manufacturers and brands.
Moreover, the core ternary color grades enable deep shades at lower dyeing temperatures on sensitive polyester/elastane fabrics without causing excessive fiber damage, saving energy resources and meeting the high fastness demand of leading brand companies.

When using Foron® SP-WF dyes as part of the Fast Sport system, manufacturers can in many cases have the potential to significantly reduce their consumption of time, energy, chemical, and water, as well as their CO2 emissions.

“We see a growing demand for apparel in the sportswear and active wear segment, reinforced with the now installed athleisure trend,” says Mark Dohmen, Head of Archroma’s Competence Center Automotive and Synthetic Dyes. “Consumers want deep color that stays put on the fiber and brands are defining their requirements accordingly. With our Foron® SP-WF, we can offer to manufacturers of sportswear textiles a solution that combines high levels of wet fastness with high productivity and low resource consumption. Because it’s our nature!”

Archroma has recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Diresul® Smartdenim Blue, a liquid sulfur blue dye designed to mimic indigo.

Diresul® Smartdenim Blue liquid was developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product will be the core of Archroma's Indigo Reflection, a coloration system that behaves like indigo, with an even more sustainable and efficient application process compared to indigo.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at ITMA to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets.

Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.

Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of ground-breaking innovations, such as the EarthColors®, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, Inkpresso®, a digital printing system that enables ink mixing on site and on demand, Smartrepel® Hydro, a nature-friendlier protection that keeps cotton, polyester and polyamide textiles dry, the Color Atlas, a revolutionary color system comprising of a physical and online library of 4,320 new colors developed on cotton poplin.

More recently, Archroma introduced the purest indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018, Appretan® NTR, a new nature-based binder for nonwovens, and Fadex® AS New, a new “super UV protector” for automotive & transportation textiles, both introduced in May 2019.

At ITMA, Archroma will present 24 solution systems and 5 innovations, and will hold “Innovation & Solutions Sessions” at its booth to present them.

The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have all been selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.

• China Interdye, booth A100, from 10 to 12 April 2019, Shanghai World Expo & Convection Center, Shanghai, China

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at China Interdye to present its system solutions for optimized productivity and/or value creation in textile coloring and manufacturing.

Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.
At China Interdye, visitors will be able to experience how Archroma can help them create value in their textile applications and markets.

The systems and innovations presented have been developed and selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.

For the third consecutive year, the Italian brand Zerobarracento was selected to embody the excellence of Italy at the Budapest Fashion Week. On November 14th, Zerobarracento will show on runway S/S 2019. The concept of connection to a fashion garment, and the idea of creating pieces to last is fundamental to this brand. 0 means: zero waste, reduced pollution, and reduced emissions. 100 means: 100% quality, Made in Italy, sustainability and transparency of the production. Patterns are developed with zero-waste techniques, that eliminates textile waste at the design stage, adopting a zero-waste design approach reduces textile waste and the demand on natural resources. The pieces are 100% made in Italy, created with premium sustainable and traceable materials.

Camilla Carrara, CEO and designer of Zerobarracento, describes the collection as follows: "garments are created with the GOTS certified Bacx™ by Centro Seta organic silks sourced from C.L.A.S.S. e.commerce and the Newlife™ transformed polyester. Shapes and colours were inspired by a Malaysian trip: simplicity and nature are blended giving life to saturated colours".
We are pleased that the collaboration with the Budapest Fashion Week lasts over time and is positive to see the growing interest for the issue of sustainability by consumers of this country.

• @ Premiere Vision, Paris, 19-21st September, Booth 6G62 - 6H63

The story of a Bemberg™ heritage that has shaped a new future for smart innovation through research, knowledge and expertise to deliver the new face of Bemberg™, the one true original material for modern living. The presentation of the Bemberg™ new campaign represents a high benchmark in value for smart textile fiber innovations, and one that is built on a long heritage of innovations since 1931. Bemberg™ is the ONE new material definition for responsible luxury. The ONE for cool exquisite comfort, and the ONE whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel. The new campaign will amplify this uniqueness and innate smartness, redefining the brand voice as Bemberg™ at an international level with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

It is not just another brand name, but about enhancing core values through a now even better, more refined product and process that supports our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and open, honest communication. This is the key reason to launch the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines a new future of contemporary luxury this unique fiber represents.

And for this, European manufacture is playing its key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills featured at the booth include: Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, O’Jersey, SMI Tessuti, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, TINTEX Textiles, Brunello, G.I. Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami, Manifattura Pezzetti, Marco Pastorelli and more. The new Bemberg™ booth at Premiere Vision is a contemporary and clean vision of the brand with a glowing, whitened atmosphere of modern architecture and luminous lighting that perfectly frames the new and dynamic identity image to reveal the ‘preciousness’ essence of the brand, its amazing textiles and leading fashion innovations.

Come and review the 3 fabric galleries, each showing the latest and unique fabric designs for Fashion Forward looks, refined Jersey Dressing and Luxury Athleisure Loungewear. Fashions by Maison Margiela confirm the new status of Bemberg™ as the ONE fiber that moves the luxury of Touch to a new contemporary fashion Feel: the ONE for a cool, liquid drape and movement: the ONE for fresh, exquisite comfort, and the ONE smart material born in the circular economy.

The Bemberg™ new campaign

We show a vision from the past in a true classic vintage sheath dress from the 1991 Martin Margiela winter collection using a peach skin finish on a refined, parachute-light fabric in a signature gunmetal grey colour courtesy of Zohra Alami. And also a contemporary representation of fashion from the MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SS2018 collection with a lingerie inspired dressy style in Bemberg™ popeline. This is a multifunctional style to be used as a top or as a dress

A new technical advance in finishing from Asahi Kasei is presented at the booth. Called Velutine Evo, the finish is comparable to premium peach skin finishes today, but now with a better environmental profile by using less water and energy to produce a durable and refined finish that sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury, demonstrating the company’s ongoing commitment to R&D in smarter, market relevant innovations. The results are supported by a preliminary study carried out by ICEA according to the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) 3rd party testing from ICEA, on datas provided by TIFAS and focusing on environmental benefits that will accrue to partners efforts to offer value with values.

Moreover, you will be able to enjoy the circularity of the Bemberg™ story: its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, as well as checking the LCA study, also signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, a step that confirms a new quality profile and standard for Bemberg™ with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark.
Also Bemberg™ can add to its premium position on responsible issues, starting from its raw material choice that clearly demonstrates its circular economy approach. Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility waste, a natural derived and abundant source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete food or forestry resources.

Bemberg™ has new Compostability Certification. Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value within the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in the composting process. Also related is a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed the absence of any ecotoxicity effect respect higher plants. The Bemberg™ filaments tested for the presence of heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances comply with the requirements specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

Asahi Kasei is proud to present the Bemberg™ heritage that delivers a true precious uniqueness through responsible smart innovation and transparency. To make contemporary luxury materials that provoke emotive responses through its rarity, sensuality, research and creativity. The ingrained knowledge and know-how behind the brand adds value to the supply chain, working only with the best, amplifying our partner’s knowledge and dynamic commitment too.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be presenting its innovative denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans India 2018, on August 1 & 2, in Bangalore, India.

Just two months after the DenimsandJeans Vietnam show, Archroma will again showcase its unique combination of technologies for denim effects and colors, from fiber to finish, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions.

At the India show, Archroma’s expert team will also present its coatings and washing solutions aiming at bringing denim creativity to a whole new dimension.
Visitors at the booth will be able to see an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.

DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan. Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.

Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process!
Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.

The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors.
  They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a cosmos of greys and deep black and navies
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

COATING, A WHOLE UNIVERSE OF COLORS AND EFFECTS
Archroma’s dye and chemical specialties portfolio allows to create exciting colors and effects using coating applications, from exclusive sulfur dyes and pigment specialties that help highlighting the indigo look, to functional finishes that give performance to denim garments - using water-based, formaldehyde-free or ultra-low formaldehyde polymers.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“It is time to make denim in a whole different way; denim that brings together innovation, sustainability and creativity,” says Anjani Prasad, Head of Sales India, Archroma. “Brands around the globe are exploring how to make fashion in a cleaner and safer way, and Archroma has the solutions to do just that, to create denim with a soul.”
Visit Archroma at DenimsandJeans India 2018 at t at Hotel Lalit, Bangalore, India, on August 1 & 2, 2018.
* Below limits of detection

(1) Arjen Y. Hoekstra, The Water Footprint of Modern Consumer Society
(2) American Chemical Society, www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/06/120619123753.htm.
Denisol®, Optisul®, Diresul® are trademarks of Archroma registered in many countries.
© 2018 Archroma

EUROBIKE, the world’s leading trade fair for the cycling industry, will include ROICA™ smart innovations into the race. Cycle retailers, brands and manufacturers will discover ROICA™ premium stretch that provides comfort and movement as it energizes.

ROICA™ will go the distance as they join this year’s EUROBIKE Academy line-up and host an interactive panel focused on sustainability as an added value for the cycling market. Whether an expert or newcomer, the must attend panel titled; What is Smart Innovation in the Biking Market? will be held on Monday, July 9th from 12:00-12:45 in Conference Center East, Room London. Moderated by Giusy Bettoni, CEO, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy), a Milan based company generating global strategies and identifying new values essential for today’s knowledgeable conscious consumer. The panel will lead the way, as they share their expertise and discuss what they are doing to push the boundaries of innovation. They will highlight responsible dimensions and processes currently available. The all-star lineup includes:

Uwe Schmidt, Asahi Kasei’s ROICA™, Managing Director introduces cycle enthusiasts, brands, retailers and manufacturers to the world’s first premium sustainable stretch yarn: ROICA™ Eco-Smart and the ROICA™ Feel Good family dedicated to well-being.
 
Laura Gambarini, marketing and communication manager at M.I.T.I. S.p.A.: M.I.T.I. Since 1931, M.I.T.I. develops and creates premium and innovative stretch warp knitted fabrics for all the high performance sports. Cycling brands recognize M.I.T.I. as the market leader for the outstanding features of their innovative fabrics. Green soul is their ultimate creation, the first fully sustainable stretch warp knitted range of fabrics in the world, created with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family for the new generation sustainable performance garments.
 
Sven Koehler, Head of production Maloja Clothing GmbH: Maloja, an outdoor specialty brand with its roots in nature and wellbeing have developed new amazing biking sets constructed of M.I.T.I. SpA fabrics using certified yarns belonging to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.
 
Sergio Alibrandi, Executive Marketing Director Sitip S.p.A.: SITIP creates high-tech innovative sports fabrics that are made in Italy and optimize the latest technology. Committed to smart innovation, learn how they developed their ground-breaking multi-panel thermal bib tights able to generate heat for riders that want to conquer cold winter training. Made from BeHOT fabric constructed with ROICA™ StretchEnergy™, the next level of well-being providing a new dimension to active performance.  The audience will learn how leading international cycling brand Santini is using BeHOT with ROICA™ on select products to generate additional heat – up to 2 degrees C as the cyclist moves their body, thanks to ground-breaking heat generating technology as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University.
 
Spearheading the premium stretch market, ROICA™ partners’ materials elevate new standards for high-tech performance that can enhance cycling products to compete responsibly. ROICA™ partners excite you as they show a fantastic range of stretch essentials for cycling clothing, gear, and apparel that offer solid performance perks. Most importantly, visit ROICA™ partners at EUROBIKE to learn about their ongoing commitment to responsible innovation and creativity.

At Kingpins Amsterdam, RUDOLF GROUP launches a selection of chemical auxiliaries for fashion and function as well their new HUB 1922.
The RUDOLF GROUP, not completely new to garment and denim finishing, decides to take the first steps of what will be a long and exciting journey in the field. In order to shorten the distance with both manufacturers and apparel brands and retailers it deploys two synergic initiatives:

• A refined selection of chemicals auxiliaries targeting garment finishing and delivering, in addition to current aesthetics, sophisticated functionalities that take denim to the next level in terms of both performance and enhanced quality.
• The launch of a new project that, combining German engineering and Italian style, provides solutions at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality. The project, called HUB 1922, introduces elements of unorthodox diversity and fosters collaborative environments that can be truly disruptive.

The word HUB is evocative of the main part of something where there is most activity, whereas the number, 1922, is the year of foundation of the RUDOLF GROUP and therefore symbol of heritage, tradition and significant experience. Ultimately, HUB 1922 wants to be the unmatched one-stop shopping for fashion and function, innovation and creativity in garment processing. A hub that enables continuous, synergetic, and powerful collaboration with brands and retailers to deliver disruptive innovations in the global markets.

It introduces functional chemistry in an universe that is almost entirely driven by aesthetics and the extension to other materials and product categories (such as outdoor apparel and performance wear), of knowledge and techniques developed for denim over the past 50 years. Very aware of its status of rookie and yet very determined, the project HUB 1922 begins exploring through concepts and values rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true responsibility, technical innovation and fresh creativity.
At Kingpins Amsterdam, HUB 1922 will present 3 concepts rooted in RUDOLF’s sophisticated and conscious chemistry:

• ODYSSEY: a voyage through textures and innovation, softness, comfort and signature handfeels.
• SHELTER: performance inspired by natural models for urban protection and for much reduced domestic washing.
• MEMOFLEX: A modern-day miracle preventing denim from sagging and bagging. A truly denim Botox that shows improved quality on many stretch fabrics.

Since when it was founded, almost 100 years ago, RUDOLF GROUP’s secret of success is being big enough to matter, small enough to care. Captured in this definition are an obvious desire to play a meaningful role in the textile industry and an equally palpable vocation to customer service.

Alberto de Conti, Head of Rudolf Fashion Division: “Every generation has their time to make a mark on the world. Considering the environmental emergencies in garment production and the lack of real innovation on the retail shelves, for the current generation of companies active in garment finishing that time is now.”

RUDOLF GROUP acknowledges therefore that there is an additional opportunity to responsibly further redefine the future and turns their sizeable R&D power towards refining their approach to what is fashion quintessential staple: garment and denim finishing. Through a renewed, highly responsible involvement in garment finishing and with the introduction of HUB 1922, the RUDOLF GROUP wants to send out a message of true optimism. It is about showing the entire industry that there is a blank canvas ahead and tangible difference can be made.