From the Sector

Sustainability is part of SEEK’s internal make-up and has always been part of the team and community experience. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated and Kings of Indigo. Experts will be sharing their experiences on this market-defining topic as well, with a host of live podcasts, talks and panel discussions, and will be shaping SEEK’s programme of content.
 
BIG PLAYER: the new SEEK Culture
 
SEEK is Europe’s most successful trade show for pop, street and sneaker culture. This is where the key players meet, where the looks of tomorrow are showcased, modelled and retold, where classics are celebrated, authenticity rules the roost and where icons take their positions alongside shooting stars. SEEK is essential participation for anyone looking to curate a modern, youthful and relevant range.

The shift from a niche event to a large trade show is now complete with a new logo and campaign design. SEEK has emerged from its transformation to reveal that its content and visual look are as relevant as ever!  

Together with creative agencies Karl Anders and Haebmau, the SEEK team has been working for weeks on the brand’s new branding. The result: a visual concept with a strong message.

“The handshake is the right imagery and commitment to our stance and that of the SEEK community.”

“SEEK stands for strength and business just as much as for communality and good vibes! ‘Get Along’ articulates a feeling of agreement, of moving forward and getting to grips with things. We all want to shape a positive future for our industry – as partners and by joining forces.”, explains Fashion Director Maren Wiebus.

CREATIVE CONNECTION: Karl Anders and Haebmau
 
The Hamburg-based agency Karl Anders, which was established by Claudia Fischer-Appelt and Lars Kreyenhagen, was commissioned to come up with the creative concept and design language for the logo and campaign.

“With the new look we are entering a new era for SEEK as a brand. Lots of brands have chosen a design using Helvetica in recent years,” says Claudia Fischer-Appelt, Creative Director at Karl Anders. “We are now signalling a clear shift in another direction. Confident, bold and independent. With the logo we are inviting the viewer to play with the linear layout in their head; we are breaking viewing habits, making a statement and revving things up a gear. SEEK, there it is.”
 
The artwork is the result of a process of in-depth debate with the SEEK brand that took place over several weeks both within the team and also with the support of lifestyle agency Haebmau. Workshops, research and analyses ultimately led to a new, strong brand identity. SEEK is focussed on both established and new players and stands for the WE.

“I have known SEEK since it was in its infancy, so to me it was always like a little brother of the large, successful PREMIUM. Quirky and different, always interesting but somehow not quite so imposing,” says Markus Bublitz, Executive Creative Director at Haebmau. “SEEK today is more grown-up, confident and sharper. Thanks to its position in the market, which it has conquered over the years, it no longer needs to please everyone but can afford to be controversial. This can offer space for new, creative ideas.”

SEEK is edgy, clean-cut and unpolished.

We are all about statement design, new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show event for the fashion community. SEEK knows who calls the shots; it boosts sales and is the place for the next generation of decision-makers to get together. Unlike all the others, SEEK is unconventional and the antidote to boring.

Fortum, together with the sustainable fibre technology company Spinnova have today introduced the first prototype product born out of their joint development of using wheat straw in the production of highly sustainable textile fibre.

Fortum and Spinnova are showcasing the world’s first clothing made from agricultural waste, namely wheat straw, at the Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference in Vancouver, during 15-17 October. The showpieces include a knitted t-shirt, as well as a jacket and skirt made of a woven fabric on organic cotton warp.

The prototype material is unique also due to its extremely low environmental impact from raw material extraction, processing and manufacture, verified by life-cycle analysis (LCA).

“We are very excited to present this revolutionary textile. Today, wheat straw is mostly discarded or even burned in the fields. As it can now be used in numerous textile applications, this opens up huge possibilities globally. This cooperation is a tangible step towards Fortum’s strategy to build options for significant new businesses that improve resource efficiency and provide smart solutions for a cleaner world. We would like to invite more key industry players to join us in this journey,” says Heli Antila, VP, Biobased solutions at Fortum.

“We are all very proud of this amazing collaborative accomplishment! This was a very fast journey from the first trials to real, appealing fabric materials. This shows that wheat straw-based fibre is well on its way to being a drop-in product of the most sustainable kind,” says Spinnova’s CEO Janne Poranen.

The new advertising campaign for the Fall/Winter 2019 season exalts the most authentic spirit of the Pinko woman, a curious creature who plays with her spontaneous femininity and sensuality to give a rock ‘n roll and metropolitan vibe to the everyday life.

An iconic location, filled with magic and fascination, serves as the background of the images, vibrating with energy and determination, developed by an artistic team including photographers Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini. Hanging between the deep blue of the London sky and the dark waters of the Thames, the Lightship 93, the wonderful fruit of attentive naval recovery and restoration works, with its bold red silhouette becomes the ideal stage for the audacious and strong femininity of the Pinko woman, embodied by the modern, fresh beauty of American model Madison Headrick.

She moves with confidence and a certain frisky attitude among the ship’s red sheets wearing some of the most iconic pieces of the Pinko Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Revealing a seductive silhouette, a suit combines pinstriped Lurex pants with a sartorial blazer showing the waisted shape exalted by a maxi bow, while the utilitarian vibe of a black washed denim ensemble is enriched by the glamorous touch of a logo belt and of the Mini Love bags peppered by metallic accents. Sparkling reflections also steal the spotlight on the tops and skirts embellished with mirror mosaics and reach the climax on the coat where bouclé wool is paired with a metallic coated fabric, which makes the Pinko woman shine bright into the darkest night.

Lookbook: LINK

• Undergarments, pajamas and bed linens tested for months
• Moisture management of fibers reduce sweating and hence itching
• Soft and smooth fibers lead to fewer skin injuries

The Lenzing Group has been providing both financial support and textiles made of its fibers to DEBRA Austria, the patient organization for “butterfly children”. The TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers which are being used are particularly soft and smooth and therefore very skin-friendly. In turn, they help to improve the quality of life for the “butterfly children”.

In recent months, several patients with the skin disorder Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) have tested leggings, undergarments, pajamas, leggings, quilts and bed linens made of TENCEL™ fibers and have found them to be comfortable and skin-friendly. The skin of EB patients is fragile like the wings of a butterfly. For this reason, coarse fibers, scratching seams, buttons, zippers and fibers which hardly or do not at all absorb sweat frequently lead to additional blisters and sores and increased itching. In contrast, TENCEL™ fibers feature particularly good moisture management and thus support the nature temperature-regulating properties of the body.

• This new version of Modaris speeds up the time to market for collections

Paris – Lectra launches Modaris® V8R2, the latest version of its patternmaking, grading and prototyping 2D/3D solution. This new version of Modaris, the most widely used modeling solution by leading brands in fashion and apparel, offers greater speed, efficiency and precision in product development. With its powerful 3D simulation and collaboration tools, patternmakers are developing patterns faster and speeding up their decision-making procedures. By reducing or eliminating physical prototyping, product development is less expensive and the time to market is as close as possible to trend detection.

To preserve and strengthen its position as a market leader of product development software, Lectra, with this upgrade of Modaris, is giving particular focus to 3D virtual prototyping. Patternmakers can now share with their partners, 360-degree videos, accessible on any device. Designers in response are able to visualize, comment, and approve the style and fit using the new 3D Style module.

New advances have made it possible to reduce the number of physical prototypes by up to 50%. Modaris V8R2 improves the quality of the solution’s 3D simulations and expands its library with new assets (fabrics, 3D top-stitching effects, realistic scenes, lighting studios, Pantone® and Natural Color System®©,…). The solution is now compatible with Vizoo, a high-quality scanner that brings forth a heightened realism to the appearance of fabric swatches, and with other 3D solutions such as Maya, 3DS Max, Iray to make the digital renderings of the prototypes more true-to-life and accurate.

One of the innovative developments of Modaris V8R2 is a special dart feature to help patternmakers add dimension to their garments with ease. Thanks to this new feature, modifying a dart requires half the usual time, resulting in a 50-90% increase in overall patternmaking speed.

Another highlight of this solution, and important nod to the globalized workforce of the fashion industry, is its ability to manage different units of measurement. With Modaris V8R2, Lectra has made it possible for patternmakers and external suppliers the guarantee of size compliance, regardless of the measurement systems used in the countries where production occurs.

Modaris V8R2 is already gaining traction among its pilot customers. Italian womenswear company GGZ was the first to endorse Modaris V8R2. “GGZ is a fast-fashion company and time and quality are of the essence for us. Modaris’s new dart feature helps us save up to 50% of pattern modification time. Additionally, 3D prototyping helps us ensure that pattern volumes and proportions correspond to our designers’ expectations early on, dramatically reducing our lead times,” attests Majla Gottardo, Patternmaker, GGZ.

“We are entering the information age, and we are catering to patternmakers who are dealing with consumers with different tastes, of all body shapes and sizes. Our patternmakers have hundreds of collections to deliver and no time to spare for errors. What we are aiming to do is making their everyday work environment easier for them, by providing the tools to streamline the development process and reduce the number of reworks to achieve the right fit the first-time,” states Céline Choussy, Chief Marketing & Communications Officer, Lectra. “All this is possible with Modaris V8R2.”

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

Exhibitors from over 30 countries participating at Kenya's Biggest Int'l. Multi-Sector Trade Exhibition

The largest international trade exhibition in Africa for multi-sector products, equipment and machinery will take place at KICC, Nairobi, Kenya from 04 - 06 September with record breaking numbers. Exhibitors and trade visitors are said to increase by 27% and 24% respectively at the 21st edition of the Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE). The exhibition has grown in stature from its inception 22 years ago, as the key networking and sourcing platform for the industries. As the largest event of its kind, it ensures direct access to over 150 exhibitors from 30 countries and more than 12,000 trade visitors.

With an amazing array of products and services from all over the world, it gives visitors the opportunity to source cutting edge products and services as well as learn about and discuss the latest market trends. There is no other related trade exhibition in East Africa that delivers the same quality, quantity and variety of buyers and distributors.

Concentrating on some of the largest growth categories within the multi sector industry, Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE) 2018 has five distinct sub categories, namely: FOODAGRO, MEDEXPO, PPPEXPO & INDUSMACH which will cover the food, hotel & agricultural sectors, medical & pharmaceuticals, plastic, printing & packaging sector, the industrial and finally the consumer sector. Being centrally located, Kenya emerges as one of the largest importers in Africa. Kenya also has the largest economy in east Africa and is a regional financial and transportation hub.