From the Sector

On 21st October the Managing Director of Officina+39 Andrea Venier has joined a panel discussion in the prestigious arena of the Kingpins24 Digital Show. He contributed to the discussion with his and Officina+39’s point of view on “Water Conservation”, together with Emrah Özkorkmaz from Bregla and Taimur Malik from Stylers International, with Edward Hertzman from Sourcing Journal & Rivet as moderator.

Water crisis remains one of the top issues for humanity and 90% of the world's natural disasters are related to water. Officina+39 has been working hard to rethink the way water is used throughout the denim processes: Andrea's contribution emphasized the company’s practical and consolidated experience in this field, as in recent years their main objective has been to drastically reduce water use in line with UN SDG6.

Andrea pointed out how “fashion industry is still currently deeply rooted in a linear approach: make, use, dispose.” Accordingly to Andrea and Officina+39, the fashion world is becoming aware of this reality and is trying to reinvent itself in order to decrease the use of this precious resource and its negative impacts but there is still work to do in order to redesign a better sustainable model, where circularity should represent the new sustainability: circularity not only when it comes to the materials, but also to water.

In the textile industry water is used as the vehicle for colors and chemical auxiliaries but luckily today many technologies aim at significantly reducing water consumption. Officina+39 is really focused on this target: Andrea explained that “Officina+39 has developed the AQUALESS MISSION, a process suitable for conventional machines that leads to a 75% reduction of the water typically used in denim and garment laundry processes, using a waterless technology and saving costs for producers.”

Despite the start-up cost of investing in the development of sustainable technologies may discourage some in the industry, it is about time to realize that these actions cannot be delayed and that we will increasingly hear about water scarcity, water stress and water risk.

Andrea stated: “It is necessary to develop water management strategies and systems in any company: today there is ISO 14000 related to environmental management, but I believe that governments, brands and related organisations should think about an ISO related just to water management. In this way, every company can understand how much value can be generated in the medium-term and how much money could be saved by investing in this kind of technologies. To create new standards related to water management, we must change the approach.”

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

• HIGHER, FASTER, FURTHER ! During the first physical Frankfurt Fashion Week in January 2022, PREMIUM GROUP will show more novelties than ever.

The anticipation is rising! With the actual move to Frankfurt in January 2022, Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the teams will not only present further developed versions of the PREMIUM and SEEK fashion fairs, but will also celebrate a major B2C festival for the first time with THE GROUND.

More than ever, the Berliners‘ passion for people and fashion, but also for business and trading, is at the heart of all their events. And where better to combine all this than in the power metropolis of Frankfurt am Main.

„No city in Germany - no city in Europe - stands for business relevance and trading power as much as Frankfurt am Main,“ explains Tillmann. „We now have a unique opportunity to actively shape the future together. PREMIUM GROUP provides the industry with the platform, the brands with the creative content. In addition, we do what we do best, introduce the right players to each other and connect them. We bring together the movers and shakers who have the same drive as we do. With this new mix of location, entertainment, creative industry and trading focus, we are creating a unique momentum after the pandemic - January is when the big deals are made and the c ourse is set for the future.“

To achieve this goal, the PREMIUM GROUP teams have also given the proven successful formats PREMIUM and SEEK a new coat of paint. More space, new areas and shorter distances provide visitors with a completely new trade event experience. Trends, brands and events can be discovered together with new and well-known partners - for the first time all in one place!

And PREMIUM, which is already entering its 19th year in January, is also showing a new side in Frankfurt. Instead of being spread out like in Station-Berlin, in Frankfurt all brands show their collections in one big hall. „We are so excited to finally unite all exhibitors in one hall. This way we create a universe with many different worlds - colorful and exciting,“ says Wiebus. „We are in close exchange with all the protagonists throughout the year and continue to develop the concepts together. The entire industry is positive about coming together in Frankfurt. Everyone is keen to experience and create something completely new! We offer the framework for this - that is our strength.“

And the Berliners have another surprise in store for the Frankfurt debut: With THE GROUND, they are organizing a large fashion festival for young end consumers for the first time. Responsible for the event concept, in addition to Tillmann, Arntz and the PREMIUM GROUP- team, is B2C expert Kai Zollhöfer, who already made the Bread & Butter by Zalando a crowd puller. “THE GROUND is a B2C festival aimed at a young, purpose-driven generation. This new generation has a strong stance on current social and environmental challenges and expects brands to reflect them. The overriding themes at THE GROUND are therefore sustainability, diversity and equality”, said Zollhöfer.

The 3-day event offers brands the opportunity to interactively exhibit purpose-driven stories and products. In addition to the thematic focus on fashion, brands from the fields of wellbeing, beauty, mobility and technology will also present innovative products and solutions.

• A paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces details effectiveness, describes protocol for future testing

An international team of scientists and engineers from the University of Cambridge, the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, ResInnova Labs and Ascend Performance Materials has found that a nylon fabric embedded with zinc ions successfully inactivated 99% of the viruses that cause COVID-19 and the common flu.

Face masks, protective clothing and filters are used to slow the spread of viruses. But poor-quality masks can harbor active viruses from infected wearers, posing a transmission risk.

“A major challenge is absorption and inactivation,” said Vikram Gopal, Ph.D., co-senior author and chief technology officer at Ascend Performance Materials. “Respiratory viral illnesses, such as COVID-19, and the flu, are transmitted through droplets and aerosols. Polypropylene, the material in commonly used disposable masks, is a hydrophobic plastic and does not absorb moisture. Instead, the viruses can sit on the surface of the mask, posing a transmission risk when the mask is handled.”

Cotton also has problems, Dr. Gopal said. “Cotton effectively absorbs moisture, but it doesn’t inactivate the virus – again, posing a transmission risk,” he said. In the paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces, the researchers described how a fabric made of nylon 6,6 embedded with active zinc ions absorbed virus-containing moisture droplets and effectively inactivated the particles. The fabric produced a 2-log, or 99%, reduction of virus particles in one hour.

The research team also was able to demonstrate that nylon with active zinc ions remains stable over time, keeping its virus-inactivating properties after 50 washes. “The study shows how nylon textile fabric with zinc outperforms the widely used cotton and polypropylene materials at virus absorption and inactivation,” Dr. Gopal said. The findings have significant implications for future development of PPE, Dr. Gopal said. “Pathogen-free PPE does more than just cut down the risk of transmitting the virus,” Gopal said. “By making PPE washable and reusable, you reduce the need for single-use products, keeping hundreds of millions of masks out of landfills.”

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind this collection is the superhero Tadao – Ana Duarte’s dog – which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated.

With the support of WHITE and its WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano), Duarte’s creations will be featured online on the digital space of WSM-WHITE website, as well as being shown in a dedicated physical booth on September during Milan Fashion Week. The collection will also be presented on its new brand page on Renoon, an online platform devoted to Responsible Shopping. In addition, Duarte will be supported by IDEE Brand Platform in the development of commercial activities for the SS22 collection.

• Kornit Digital and threeASFOUR Give Shape to the Future of Fashion and Technology with the KUNDALINI Collection at New York Fashion Week
• Event will showcase how fashion technology transforms creativity and expression, and eliminates wasteful overproduction prominent in the fashion industry

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile production technologies, announced today a collaboration with fashion designers threeASFOUR. The new collection, KUNDALINI, premiered today during New York Fashion Week, demonstrating exceptional capabilities for designers in the fashion industry to express brilliance, creativity, and extraordinary quality by using Kornit’s sustainable, on-demand fashion production technologies.

Founded in 2005, threeASFOUR has built a legacy of fusing cutting-edge technology with traditional craftsmanship to create pieces that are both fashion and art. The intricate designs in the KUNDALINI collection unlock the full value of Kornit’s innovative and cutting-edge technology and showcase the power of the digital-first approach for fashion. The entire collection was produced using Kornit’s revolutionary MAX technology, which offers never-before-seen digital decoration and design capabilities.

Working closely with Kornit, threeASFOUR was able to maintain complete design freedom in accordance with their vision, while producing quickly and significantly eliminating waste. Using Kornit technologies enabled their designers to shrink design cycles to mere days—or even hours in some cases—which is inconceivable in the traditional ways of producing fashion.

“Collaborating with top global designers like threeASFOUR demonstrates that fashion production can be cleaner and more sustainable, while also being efficient and more responsive to inspiration and creativity,” said Ronen Samuel, Kornit Digital Chief Executive Officer. “Following the massive success of Tel Aviv Fashion Week, we are now creating exhibits and partnerships in New York, Los Angeles, London—and other global fashion hubs that need to adopt eco-conscious digital means of production. This collaboration with threeASFOUR is another step on our journey to become the operating system for on-demand sustainable, proximity fashion.”

“We’ve built our brand on pushing boundaries, advancing social progress, and uniting fashion with nature and with self, while experimenting with technological innovations,” said Adi Gil, Creative Director at threeASFOUR. “Our vision for more sustainable and meaningful fashion unites us with Kornit Digital, whose technologies seem to have been designed from the ground up to help us achieve our goals. We’re excited about the infinite design freedom that Kornit on-demand production solutions offer the fashion industry, and how it could help grow our brand and raise our profile and accessibility in the marketplace.”
Kornit Digital’s on-demand production ecosystem uses considerably less water and energy and generates far less greenhouse gas emissions relative to traditional analog production processes. As the cornerstone of an efficient micro-factory production model, Kornit’s technology uses safe and sustainable consumables to enable proximity production, eliminating the logistical waste, vulnerability, and time to market associated with multinational supply chains.

• ecorepel® Dry Cleaning Resistant – ecological water repellency that is PFC-free and dry cleaning resistant

In recent years, the textile industry has developed significantly in terms of environmentally-friendly water repellency. Many manufacturers have already successfully replaced textile finishes containing fluorocarbons with fluorocarbon-free (PFC-free) finishes.

Nevertheless, many textiles equipped with alternative finishes are reaching their limits in performance. Especially when it comes to materials that are subject to heavy wear or require a special type of care.

The PFC-free, water-repellent ecorepel® technology launched by schoeller® in 2012 has now been further developed to allow for successful application on textiles and apparel that are “dry clean only.”
ecorepel® DCR achieves impressive water-repellency results, even after several home launderings and professional dry cleaning cycles. The resistance to professional dry cleaning refers to the F-cleaning symbol, which stands for a recommended cleaning process for sensitive fabrics using hydrocarbon solvents. In addition, tests show that materials finished with ecorepel® DCR are highly resistant to abrasion and scuffing.

ecorepel® DCR technology is now available for licensing and can be used in a variety of applications, such as outdoor, sport and fashion apparel, as well as upholstery fabrics.

Exploring the relationship between fashion, dreams and escapism
Curated by Ya'ara Keydar
July 13th, 2021 – December 11th, 2021

The Design Museum Holon unveils its newest and most ambitious fashion exhibition “The Ball” spanning the entire museum. Taking an innovative approach from Design Museum Holon’s previous fashion exhibitions, “The Ball” is a multi-sensory theatrical experience that combines fashion, sound, music, scenery, and lighting to showcase how dresses from the past resonate in today’s eveningwear design. The exhibition offers a dreamy experience full of fantasy, forging connections between the history of balls, Western fashion, and the current creations of Israel’s leading designers.

“The Ball” looks at past and present-day fashion, exploring the complexities woven into the longing for opulence and escapism. Throughout history, while balls were often reserved for the elite, fairytales provided a gateway into a world of imagination, overcoming social divides and barriers. Through a creative dialogue between the fantastic and the real, the exhibition invites visitors to explore the role of fashion and escapism in everyday life.

The exhibition displays approximately 120 ball gowns representing both historical and contemporary designs, which feature luxurious materials alongside surprisingly recognizable ones. In addition to the gowns, the exhibition showcases approximately 50 accessories created especially for the exhibition by Israel’s leading designers, including a display of glass Cinderella slippers printed in 3D, and a collection of hats inspired by desserts.

Participating designers:
Shadi Abed, Chen Adar, Shlomi Anteby, Rivi Avivi, Shahar Avnet, Idit Barak, Victor Vivi Bellaish, Berta, BOOBA MACHO by Karin Vasiluk, Hila Cohen, Luci David, Tatiana Davidov (Studio Tiamanta), Gadi Elimelech, Lia Fattal, Aviram Fima, Aharon Genish, Nimrod Gilo, Lee Grebenau, Brurya, Haritan, Nofar Hatuka, Lihi Hod, Iota Studio, Adi Karni, Ohad Krief, Galia Lahav, Ronen Levin, Rotem Levitan - Retema, Noam Levy, Alon Livne, Shady Francis Majlaton, Chana Marelus, Tal Medina, Moni Mednik, Yaron Minkowsky, Evyatar Myor, Maya Naé, Eliran Nargassi, Nataf Hirshberg and Yanky Golian, Dylan Parienty, Yaniv Persy, Ruth Philosoph, Assaf Reeb, , Katya Romantsov, Eden Saadon, Alon Shabo, Shai Shalom, Orwa Shareef, Sharon Tal, Maskit ,Rotem Shaul, Gal Shenfeld, Nadir Shoshany, Liora Taragan, Ariel Toledano, Michal Yersanesh Mangisto, Maor Zabar, Mira Zwillinger Studio

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A research report released today has revealed the innovative new ways retailers are using RFID technology in-store to improve profitability. Authored by Emeritus Professor Adrian Beck from the University of Leicester and the ECR Retail Loss Group and supported by Checkpoint Systems, Utilising RFID in Retailing: Insights on Innovationhighlights how companies are employing the technology for a broader range of purposes. It demonstrates the value the technology is bringing to their businesses and ultimately, the impact it is delivering to their bottom line. Crucially, it also shows thatmore retailers than ever are recognizing the benefits of RFID and driving uptake within their organisations. The report claims that as businesses are becoming more established in their use of RFID-generated data, they are gradually incorporating more usecases into their business-as-usual practices.

The report claims that as businesses are becoming more established in their use of RFID-generated data, they are gradually incorporating more usecases into their business-as-usual practices.

In particular, more and more retailers reported using RFID to streamline the audit process (as an alternative to infrequent organisational stock takes), which not only delivers considerable cost savings, but also provides more regular insights into the status of inventories. It also found that using RFID was having a significant impact on store processes. While RFID has always been key to inventory accuracy, some companies are now using this data to further improve business activities such as reducing phantom out of stocks, improving rapid stock search and find tasks and developing an efficient ship from store (SFS) capability.

Beyond the more traditional retail model, RFID was seen as a key facilitator in delivering omnichannel retailing by all those questioned. Without the inventory accuracy offered by RFID, few retailers believed they could reliably use their stores as fulfilment centres to output online orders. Indeed, one retailer admitted to only making RFID-enabled store stock available for this purpose. The use of RFID to improve online order accuracy is also becoming more commonplace, to reduce errors in the picking and packing process, therefore improving customer satisfaction. One retailer reported a 90% reduction in incorrect orders and customer complaints since introducing RFID into the process.

Looking to the future, one area where the benefits of RFID are starting to be tested is self-checkouts (SCO). While currently limited due to the need to have a 100% SKU tagging strategy in place, retailers are starting to recognize the benefits the technology could offer including increased speed of checkout, reduced likelihood of double scanning and thereby improved customer service. Another area where retailers also reported reaping the benefits of RFID was loss prevention. While none of those interviewed argued that reducing loss was the primary reason for investing in RFID, many acknowledged they were benefiting from it by using the technology to tackle refund frauds, enable dynamic loss product profiling, manage e-frauds and identify stolen products.

Riri has completed an important acquisition, leading to the consolidation of the Group’s position in the luxury accessory sector, which represents a significant add-on to develop new skills and production with an extended offer now including bijoux.

The journey towards the creation of a single centre of excellence involved in designing, developing and manufacturing high fashion accessories has taken another step forward. With Amom joining the Group, Riri’s growth strategy has achieved another major goal: a comprehensive range of products now embracing zippers, buttons, metal components and bijoux.

Amom, based in Badia al Pino in the province of Arezzo, at the heart of the Tuscan high-fashion district, has manufactured for over 60 years metal trimmings, fashion jewellery and accessories for the shoes, leather and clothes sector. The company can perform most of the machining work inhouse, including die-casting, moulding, cutting, welding, laser cutting, enamelling, painting and electroplating. Another strong point is the wide showroom displaying a collection of over 100,000 items.
The addition of Amom to Riri Group has allowed for a broader offer of new materials: besides zamak, brass, steel and aluminium, our range now includes also silver, bronze, wood, precious and plastic materials.