From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, will be presenting its innovative and sustainable denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans Vietnam 2018, on June 27 and 28.
From fiber to finish, Archroma offers a scope of possibilities for effects and colors, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions. Archroma is a recognized leader in integrated solutions, offering best-in-class auxiliaries for bespoke process packages.
Visitors will be able to discover solutions designed to make denim in a more sustainable and responsible way, in particular:
DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan.

• Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.
• Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process! Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.
The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  Colors other than blue have been tricky to achieve in the past. With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can expand their color horizons with this range of six dyes especially designed to produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors. They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles. At the booth, Archroma will display an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a universe of greys and deep black and navies.
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
As consumers increasingly aspire to functional, beautiful and meaningful clothing, brands and manufacturers are increasingly interested in the environmental impact of the denim industry. Archroma has placed sustainability at the heart of its innovation process to create products and processes that improve the industry’s sustainability.
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Brand owners and retailers around the world are taking action to evaluate the environmental impact of textile treatment, dyeing and finishing processes in response to consumer concerns.

Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“Innovation and sustainability go hand in hand,” says Paul O’Prey, Head of Sales, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma, Vietnam. “While developing new products and services, we always consider the environmental impact so they are as sustainable as possible. This can be seen in our innovative and eco-advance products, such as the water-saving ADVANCED DENIM and the aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.”

Huntsman Corporation (NYSE: HUN) is pleased to announce that the Patent Re-examination Board of the State Intellectual Property Office, China (PRB) upheld Huntsman’s Chinese Patents Nos. ZL00106403.7 and ZL200480003051.4.  These patents were contested by Shaoxing Bangyi Chemical Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. By its ruling, the PRB rejected the positions of the petitioners and confirmed that Huntsman’s patented technology, which is used in Huntsman’s NOVACRON® Super Black G and NOVACRON® Super Black R dyes, is Huntsman’s valuable innovation for producing deep black shades.

Huntsman sued Jiangsu Jinji Industrial Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. for infringing the above mentioned Chinese Patents at the Beijing Intellectual Property Court by using Huntsman’s patented technology in six black dyestuff products. Huntsman is seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement.  Huntsman is also seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement in a separate lawsuit against Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Keyong Chemical Co., Ltd., and Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. This matter is currently being heard before the High People's Court, Shanghai.  In earlier decisions, both the Shanghai Intermediate People’s Court and the Shanghai High People’s Court ruled that Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. had infringed Huntsman’s Chinese Patent No. ZL00106403.7 by manufacturing and selling Colvazol Super Black LC-G and Colvazol Super Black LC-R dyes.

Rohit Aggarwal, President of Huntsman Textile Effects said: “We are very pleased with the PRB’s decision which demonstrates the State Intellectual Property Office’s commitment to steadfastly uphold intellectual property rights in China which protect valuable and advanced technology. This encourages companies like Huntsman to continue to invest in research and development in our aim to bring cutting-edge innovation to the textile industry. Huntsman will vigorously pursue those who are infringing our intellectual property rights to stop the unlawful infringement and pursue full compensation for our losses”.

Asahi Kasei ROICA™ premium stretch fibre has received the prestigious Senken Shimbun Synthetic Fiber Prize with the sustainable GRS certified yarn.
ROICA™ specialties captured the attention of Senken Shimbun, a daily Japanese fashion newspaper, based in Tokyo, Japan.  Founded in 1956, today provides news, research data and new business ideas, and has a great influence over the fashion business in Japan. It helps fashion products throughout Japan to be distributed in Japan's domestic market, and serves as a platform targeting overseas markets.
The award is limited to Japanese companies. This year ROICA™ GRS certified yarn was selected in the Sustainable category thanks to its unique sustainable characteristics.

On March 14th, 2018 Senken Shimbun organized an event to conferee the awards and in this occasion ROICA™ displayed unique fabrics and garments created with this awarded ROICA™ yarn by premium producers as Iluna Group S.p.A (IT), M.I.T.I. (IT), Tessitura Colombo Antonio(IT), Tintex Textiles(PT)  and international top level brands as Cosabella (US), Maloja (DE) and Triumph (CH.
 
MORE DETAILS ABOUT THIS AWARD WINNING PRODUCT
The Senken Award winning ROICA™ yarn is part of the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, a world-first range of unique innovative and responsible made premium stretch fibers, that today can offer 2 real sustainable solutions. For time, one of the two types was awarded! The ROICA™ yarn certified GRS (Global Recycled Standard by TEXTILE EXCHANGE) version 3 certified yarn with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content.

Two of the companies above: M.I.T.I. and TINTEX already garnered a huge recognition at ISPO last February also thanks to the uniqueness of this smart ROICA™ yarn:
M.I.T.I. Spa presented at ISPO Green Soul, a new fabric line made with fully recycled fibers. Ten different fabrics belong to this products line whose composition is both polyamide/ROICA™ Eco-Smart family and Polyester/ROICA™ Eco-Smart family offering a 100% recycled fiber warp knitted stretch fabrics. The winning Bluesign certified fabric is called Thermal Green and is a high-end brush back warpknit fabric, made with recycled Polyamide and ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.Tintex Textiles Garnered Its Second ‘ISPO Best Product Award’ In TexTrends in the SOFT EQUIPMENT category with a circular economy centric material, branded B.Cork™, a unique technology that sources certified pre-consumer cork waste.  Following a patent pending hi-tech lamination of a water based, formaldehyde and solvent free coating, a breathable, natural and waterproof supersoft touch is achieved. And last but not least is using ROICA™ Eco-Smart family premium stretch qualities  to fulfil fit and comfort needs.
 
 AWARD WINNING ROICA YARN IN BRANDS COLLECTIONS

• Maloja, an outdoor speciality brand with its roots in nature and  wellbeing, Maloja is presenting  many lines using ROICA™, and  here we present a new mid layer  technical x-country ski set with  fabrics from MITI, using the GRS  certified yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco- Smart family of responsible Stretch.
   
• COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use the Eco-Lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio fabrics made with ROICA™ Eco Smart family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.
   
• TRIUMPH LINGERIE: whose latest designs use the new stretch lace from ILUNA Group and the GRS certified yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco Smart family, slips and lingerie sets for the Essence by Triumph collection.

CHOMARAT, the composite reinforcement specialist group, is launching its multiaxial glass NCF for thermoplastic composites. The unique patented stitching yarn used can withstand processing temperatures to 400°C, making it an innovative industrial solution for thermoplastic composites and an alternative to the woven reinforcements used especially in the automotive sector. For the first time, CHOMARAT is also exhibiting a unidirectional carbon NCF reinforcement that is adapted to the productivity and performance requirements in the wind energy sector.

AN INNOVATIVE INDUSTRIAL SOLUTION TO REINFORCE AUTOMOTIVE THERMOPLASTICS
Thanks to a unique patented stitching yarn, the glass NCF reinforcement (G-PLY™) developed by CHOMARAT offers new possibilities in thermoplastic RTM and organosheet processes. “This is an especially innovative solution, utilizing stitching yarns that are compatible with processing temperatures to 400°C. These multiaxials improve the performance and provide a lot of construction freedom in terms of fibre orientation. These new design possibilities contribute to structural optimization. The quest for more lightweight vehicles, shorter cycle times and lower cost is a major issue for all builders,” explains CHOMARAT Automotive Market Manager Francisco De Oliveira.
This new heat-stable G-PLY™ reinforcement can withstand very high processing temperatures without deformation and provides optimal mechanical performance.

A CARBON UD TO REINFORCE EXTRA-THICK WIND TURBINE STRUCTURES
For the first time, CHOMARAT is exhibiting an infusion-moulded laminate made with 150 plies of its new unidirectional carbon C-PLY™. This 600g/m², high-permeability NCF can be used to create extra-thick structures, in particular the wind-turbine blade stiffeners, or spar caps. “Cost reduction is the challenge in the wind energy industry. Increasing the blade length by incorporating carbon stiffeners increases power, and so it also lowers the cost of the energy,” says CHOMARAT Wind Energy Market Manager Raphaël PLEYNET. The carbon UD developed by CHOMARAT provides a solution to achieve the goal to optimize the weight/power ratio. The UD’s high permeability reduces cycle times and lowers the blade production costs.

Professor Sung Ha from the University of Hanyang will give a conference on composite challenges in the wind energy sector at 11:30 am on Wednesday, 7 March 2018 at JEC World.
Established in 1898, CHOMARAT is an international industrial textile group, involved in three businesses: Composites Reinforcements, Construction Reinforcements, Coatings & Films–Textiles. The privately held company operates in France, Tunisia, the United States and China to service its global customers.
CHOMARAT leads a strong innovation strategy, rising to challenges, developing materials for the future. Hence, the Group invests in new technologies and enters into collaborative research programs with universities and technical centers worldwide.
CHOMARAT offers strong technical know-how and mastery of complex technologies in fields ranging from automotive, aerospace, sports, energy, marine, construction, and also in markets requiring creativity and expertise, like luxury goods.

Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 with patented, dual-action technology

SANITIZED AG presents a new unique dimension to odor-management for functional polyester textiles. The newly developed wash-resistant Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a dual-action effect: on the one hand it prevents the bacteria from docking on the textile, and on the other, it adsorbs odors whilst the garment is being worn. The underlying technology that has been further developed was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. Goodbye permastink!

Manufacturers of functional polyester textiles from all over the world face the same challenge: freshly washed garments develop an unpleasant odor even after a short wearing period. The cause of this undesirable effect is not the human perspiration itself, but the bacteria that break down the perspiration. This process of decomposition generates the characteristic sweet, pungent smell. Once the bacteria, or the odor molecules, have penetrated into the surface of the polyester textile, they remain there permanently. Machine wash cycles and special detergents will never completely eliminate them. The bacterial colonization produces a biofilm on the polyester, which not only causes unpleasant odors, but also has a negative impact on the properties of the material.

Surface modulation with anti-adhesive properties
This is exactly where the new, dual-action technology from SANITZED AG comes into play: the surface of the textile is "coated" with Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 in the padding process. This creates a protective film on the surface of the textile. The bacteria use this anti-adhesive protective film as the basis for latching onto the garment. The bacteria can therefore be completely washed out in a normal wash cycle, consequently preventing any biofilm from forming. An anti-adhesion test method was developed in cooperation with EMPA to prove this Wash Effect.

The second advantage: Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a high adsorbing effect. Odors are "trapped" and removed during a normal wash cycle. The new product is the result of a technology that has been further developed and was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. The odor adsorption is identified using GC-MS.

As the Product Manager at SANITIZED AG, Urs Zihlmann, succinctly puts it: "Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 marks the end of permastink in polyester textiles." Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 can be combined with other Sanitized®products, in particular with products based on zinc pyrithione. The treatment does not influence the feel of the final treated textile.

Wash-resistant, sustainable and still "no nano"
The odor-reducing function is clearly still going strong even after 50 wash cycles. This is even the case if garments are washed at 30°C, either by hand or in the machine, meaning consumers save on water and energy, not to mention that the piece of clothing will look great for longer.

As with all its other products, SANITZED AG does not use any nano technology. The Hohenstein Institute has awarded the company the rating Skin Friendly, the bluesign®registration is underway. The product also bears the label Eco Passport by OEKO-TEX®.

"The unique, dual Odor Control Function of Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 enjoys a unique position in the market and it furthermore fulfills two market requirements: the prevention of permastink and the minimization of odor intensity during wear. Almost all manufacturers of functional polyester textiles are confronted with this problem," commented Urs Zihlmann. "The new technology creates tangible added value for consumers. This is a competitive differentiating
advantage for global marketing."

As with all other products, the service provided by SANITIZED AG includes technological advice before and during production, in the definition of the verified efficacy and in the use of the Sanitized®Ingredient Brand for promotional purposes.

The Industry of the Future Alliance (AIF) has awarded Lectra with their ‘Showcase for the Industry of the Future’ label for demonstrating the criteria exemplarity, innovation and commitment. This certification is given to companies who have concretely developed a ground-breaking project to organize their production by leveraging the potential of digital.

The AIF bestowed Lectra with this distinction for its competitiveness concerning cost, quality and delivery times, all obtained thanks to a lean approach and reflection around the design of its products. Further, Lectra received the certification for its competitiveness regarding value, achieved thanks to mastering customer use from which new associated services have flowed. Since 2013, Lectra has invested €86 million in R&D, representing 9.4% of its revenues. This Investment has enabled Lectra to undergo a metamorphosis—based on methodological advances and fundamental technologies—increasing recruitment and growing competitiveness in all of its markets and geographical sectors.

With ten years’ experience in the industrial internet of things for cutting and expertise in software Solutions to automate and optimize design and product development, Lectra is in an unrivalled position to Support customers as they enter the ‘industry of the future’ era.

Pressure from certain shareholders to relocate manufacturing to China in 2005, triggered Lectra’s industrial project. Following risk analyses—the cost of transport for the European market, the turnover in qualified labor, uncertainty over patent rights and quality—Lectra decided to keep manufacturing in France. This choice was conditional on: disruptive innovation; upgrading; increased value to customers; and a rise in productivity.

The project was accompanied by a well-structured lean approach and organizational changes, which enabled Lectra to achieve the desired level of excellence in terms of productivity and competitiveness.

Some of the changes that took place thanks to this project are as follows: Growth in industrial performance due to an improvement in working conditions, with teams involved in the lean approach; Production engineers involved in creating awareness around factory constraints for a new offer as early as the design process. This co-design product/process optimizes global costs; Emphasis on product, process and logistics’ modularity with the latest possible integration of options (delayed differentiation). This enables logistics’ constraints to be taken into account as early as the engineering phase. Product modularity allows, for example, machines to be put in containers when they might otherwise require special heavy-goods transport.

Lectra’s factory improved its productivity rate by 18 points in three years, and has since maintained it at 89%. Costs have already reduced by 25% and the quality and level of service has improved. In terms of positioning, Lectra has confirmed its leadership in the high-end segment. Lectra has enriched its offer with end-to-end services and innovative, connected products whose embedded intelligence offers Smart Services, notably for predictive maintenance.