From the Sector

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), global experts in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, will be supplying their high performance ExpeDRY ultra dry down to Montane for their fall 2025 down apparel line.

ExpeDRY represents the evolution of performance down for use in extreme situations, replacing chemical treatments with gold particles permanently bonded to down clusters. ExpeDRY keeps water vapor from condensing into droplets, providing better real-world performance than all other treatments. The ExpeDRY filled products will also dry significantly faster in-home laundry making care easier and utilizing much less energy through the life of the products.

Montane will offer ExpeDRY in 100% of their down jackets, being the first to adopt the technology over all down jackets.

“ALLIED introduced the world’s first water resistant down back in 2015, and we’ve learned a lot since then,” said Matthew Betcher, Creative Director with ALLIED. “Traditional WR down works great when in direct contact with water, but that is not what’s happening inside down insulation chambers. Water vapor is the biggest issue and ExpeDRY helps keep this vapor from condensing, allowing it to evaporate though the shell more effectively, keeping the down drier for longer, and helping it to dry out faster if it does get wet.

“It is also equally important that even in performance technologies, we continue to strive to reduce our environmental impact,” added Betcher. “So, removing another unnecessary chemical from our supply chain will help significantly with that. It’s only a matter of time before we all realize that the C0 chemicals we are using might not be so great for the planet after all.”

“At Montane, we are really excited to introduce such a new and disruptive technology from our long-term partners Allied Feather & Down,” said Liam Steinbeck, Materials Manager with Montane. “ExpeDRY is fully aligned with our philosophy as a brand to be one of the first to market with the latest most innovative technologies, bringing unparalleled performance and comfort in the most demanding environments.”

Poised to render current, chemical-intensive treatments obsolete, ExpeDRY down insulation is cleaner and better performing than all current water-resistant down technologies. Created in partnership with FUZE Technologies and relying on gold particles permanently bonded to down plumes, ExpeDRY is permanent and since it is completely chemical free, there are no PFAS or other concerns. In all real-world simulations, ExpeDRY is far better at keeping insulated jackets dry and warm in any environment, and at a significantly lower impact than the WR treatment alternatives.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and the premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions, announced that its Power Shield™ Pro fabric, which incorporates Biolon™* plant-based nylon, has won the 2024 R&D 100 Award in the Mechanical/Materials category. This renowned competition, now in its 62nd year, recognizes revolutionary scientific and technicological innovations from 16 countries. Winners are selected by an expert judging panel of 56 industry professionals from across the world.

Building on the performance legacy of Polartec® NeoShell™ – a 2012 R&D 100 Award winner – Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro is a planet conscious weather protection shell fabric technology, made with Biolon™ nylon. The highly durable, extremely breathable non-PFAS monolithic membrane construction provides 20/20 breathable waterproof protection (20k mm water resistance (ISO 811) / 20k g/m2/24hrs breathability (JIS L1099, B1). As a result, it stops rain and snow getting in, while allowing body moisture to escape. Made to withstand wear and tear for resilience you can rely on, its 48% plant-based content also lowers carbon footprint by up to 50 percent and reduces reliance on fossil fuels without impacting human food sources.

Indeed, Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro is a first-of-its-kind weather protection made from renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon and an innovative non-PFAS membrane. In addition to being soft, flexible and highly versatile, it offers exceptional durability while delivering a 50% lower carbon footprint than virgin Nylon 6,6, the gold standard against which other nylons are measured. In addition, its chemical free composition is created in a bluesign® certified facility, ensuring its more responsible and sustainable manufacturing. And by mimicking the strength and pliability of traditional nylon, Power Shield™ Pro ensures long-lasting protection in addition to setting a new benchmark for environmentally-friendly performance fabrics.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the conference program for Hygienix™ 2024, November 18-21, The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, TN. This year’s theme, “Driving Absorbent Hygiene Product Innovation: Consumer Desires, Market Dynamics & Sustainability Solutions,” will provide insights into the latest industry advancements.

Event highlights include:

Pre-conference webinars

• “Non-PFAS Hydrophobic Technology for Polypropylene Nonwovens”
• “Harnessing AI to Enhance Transparency and Trust in Brand Sustainability”

Workshops (Monday, November 18th)

• “Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence”
• “Innovations in Menstrual Care”
• “Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics”

Networking opportunities

• Lunch Arounds with founders of successful hygiene start-ups
• Lightning Talks – supercharged elevator pitches
• Tabletop Exhibits of leading-edge absorbent hygiene suppliers
• Receptions – three extended networking events

Presentation Preview

• Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, “Exploring the Performance of Polyaspartic Acid Superabsorbents in Hygiene Products”
• China National Household Paper Industry Association (CNHPIA), “Latest Development of Disposable Hygiene Products Industry in China”
• Glatfelter Industries (France) SAS, “Capitalizing on Capabilities to Support the Shifting Hygiene Industry”
• Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG, “Synergy of Components - Upstream Advancements Offering Downstream Sustainability Opportunities”
• Handas Consulting, “The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability and the Environment: An African Perspective”
• INDA, “UN Plastics Treaty Update”
• INDA, “Business Not as Usual – The Impact of Reusables on the Absorbent Hygiene Market”
• Curt G. Joa, Inc., “Efficient Material Utilization in Hygienic Incontinence Articles”
• Joii Ltd., “Using Nonwoven Period Care Products and an AI-backed Mobile Application to Diagnose Heavy Menstrual Bleeding”
• Kuraray Europe GmbH, “Connecting Consumer Insights with AHPs: Designing Elastics & Naturality”
• The LYCRA Company, “From Farm to Fiber: Developing Elastane with 70% Renewable Content”
• MyMicrobiome GmbH, “The Menopausal Skin Microbiome – What Do You Need to Know?”
• Price Hanna Consultants LLC, “Shifting Sands in the Global Economy for Absorbent Hygiene Products”
• Principle Business Enterprises, “The High Cost of Adult Incontinence”
• RPK Consulting, “Shifting to Sustainability: Natural Fibers in Diapers and the Rise of Eco Brands”
• Texol S.R.L., “Functional Substrates to Preserve Skin Microbiome”
• SK Leaveo, “Comprehensive Sustainability in Hygiene Products: Exploring Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Economy”
• SPARK Solutions For Growth, “There’s an App for That! The New World of Incontinence Tech”
• University of Pennsylvania, Division of Urology, “Latest Medical & Surgical Treatment for Incontinence”
• ZymoChem, “The Final Frontier: A Bio-Based Source for Super Absorbents”

Hygienix Innovation Award™
A highlight of the event, the Hygienix Innovation Award™ will feature presentations from three finalists on Tuesday, November 19th. The winner, to be announced on Thursday, November 21st, will be recognized for their innovative contributions to absorbent hygiene products. Nominations are open until September 16th, 2024. Last year’s winner, Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, received FDA clearance in August 2023 and is expected to be widely available in 2024.

A new research project links some of Denmark's leading researchers in PFAS remediation with artificial intelligence. The goal is to develop and optimise a new form of wastewater and drinking water treatment technology using artificial intelligence for zero-pollution goals.

In a new research and development project, researchers from Aarhus University aim to develop a new technology that can collect and break down perpetual chemicals (PFAS) in one step in a purification process that can be connected directly to drinking water wells and treatment plants.

The project has received funding from the Villum Foundation of DKK 3 million, and it will combine newly developed treatment technology from some of Denmark's leading PFAS remediation researchers with artificial intelligence that can ensure optimal remediation.

"In the project, we will design, construct and test a new, automated degradation technology for continuous PFAS degradation. We’re also going to set up an open database to identify significant and limiting factors for degradation reactions with PFAS molecules in the reactor," says Associate Professor Xuping Zhang from the Department of Mechanical and Production Engineering at Aarhus University, who is co-heading the project in collaboration with Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering.

Ever since the 1940s, PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) have been used in a myriad of products, ranging from raincoats and building materials to furniture, fire extinguishers, solar panels, saucepans, packaging and paints.

However, PFAS have proven to have a number of harmful effects on humans and the environment, and unfortunately the substances are very difficult to break down in nature. As a result, the substances continuously accumulate in humans, animals, and elsewhere in nature.

In Denmark, PFAS have been found in drinking water wells, in surface foam on the sea, in the soil at sites for fire-fighting drills, and in many places elsewhere, for example in organic eggs. It is not possible to remove PFAS from everything, but work is underway to remove PFAS from the groundwater in drinking water wells that have been contaminated with the substances.

Currently, the most common method to filter drinking water for PFAS is via an active carbon filter, an ion-exchange filter, or by using a specially designed membrane. All of these possibilities filter PFAS from the water, but they do not destroy the PFAS. The filters are therefore all temporary, as they have to be sent for incineration to destroy the accumulated PFAS, or they end in landfills.

The project is called 'Machine Learning to Enhance PFAS Degradation in Flow Reactor', and it aims to design and develop an optimal and permanent solution for drinking water wells and treatment plants in Denmark that constantly captures and breaks down PFAS, while also monitoring itself.

"We need to be creative and think outside the box. I see many advantages in linking artificial intelligence with several different water treatment technologies, but integrating intelligence-based optimisation is no easy task. It requires strong synergy between machine learning and chemical engineering, but the perspectives are huge," says Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering at Aarhus University.

Die Belastung der Umwelt mit Schadstoffen ist ein großes Problem, die sich in Luft, Böden oder Gewässern anreichern und nur mühsam zu beseitigen sind. Dazu gehören PFAS (Perfluoralkylchemikalien), schwer abbaubare Chemikalien, die in sehr unterschiedlichen Produkten vorkommen. So werden damit beispielsweise Textilien beschichtet, die für Outdoor-Kleidung Verwendung finden, um sie vor Feuchtigkeit zu imprägnieren. PFAS sind aber auch in Backpapier, Skiwachs sowie Kosmetika wie Wimperntusche, Make-up und Lippenstiften vorhanden.

Auch in Feuerlöschern kamen PFAS bis vor Kurzem zum Einsatz. Mittlerweile sind sie EU-weit verboten, sodass die vorher damit ausgerüsteten Anlagen rückstandsfrei gereinigt werden müssen. Betriebe, die Schaummittel-Löschanlagen haben, müssen für den Brandfall gerüstet sein, andererseits besteht aber die Pflicht, Geräte und Anlagen rückstandslos von PFAS zu befreien.

Die NT Service GmbH mit Sitz in Steinhöfel bietet die Dekontamination von Schaummittel-Löschanlagen, insbesondere hinsichtlich PFC/PFAS-Rückständen und übernimmt für Kunden die Umwelthaftung.

Aufgrund ihrer besonderen physikalisch-chemischen Eigenschaften – wasser-, fett- und schmutzabweisend sowie chemisch und thermisch stabil – sind Per- und Polyfluoralkylsubstanzen (PFAS) in vielen zukunftsrelevanten Technologien, aber auch Alltagsprodukten essenziell. Die hohe Stabilität der Verbindungen und ihre allgegenwärtige Verbreitung können auch Gefahren für Mensch und Umwelt, insbesondere in wässriger Umgebung und in Böden. PFAS sind teilweise toxisch, z. B. fortpflanzendgefährdend oder krebserregend. Die EU plant ein pauschales Herstellungs- und Einsatzverbot. Im Rahmen eines Informationsaustauschs besuchte NRW-Umweltminister Oliver Krischer die Cornelsen Umwelttechnologie GmbH, um gemeinsam mit Verantwortlichen der IHK, der ZENIT GmbH und der Business Metropole Ruhr GmbH über die künftigen Herausforderungen bei der Beseitigung von PFAS und im Speziellen über die Aufbereitungstechnologie PerfluorAd® zu sprechen. Ebenfalls dabei war das Fraunhofer UMSICHT als (Mit-)Erfinder der Technologie und Forschungspartner von Cornelsen.

Zukunftsrelevante Technologien wie Brennstoffzellen oder Li-Ionen-Batterien, Alltagsprodukte wie Outdoor-Textilien oder Kosmetika, diverse Funktionsbeschichtungen und Feuerlöschmittel enthalten PFAS. Für zahlreiche der genannten Anwendungen gibt es noch keine fluorfreien Alternativen. Der nationale Wasserstoffrat empfiehlt aus diesem Grund eine vertiefende Forschung und Ausnahmeregelungen, bis umweltfreundliche Lösungen verfügbar sind.

Aufbereitungskosten minimieren und Umwelt schonen
Das Fraunhofer UMSICHT und Cornelsen waren mit Beginn ihrer Forschungsaktivitäten zu PFAS im Jahr 2008 die Ersten in Deutschland, die sich mit deren anspruchsvoller Beseitigung aus kontaminiertem Grundwasser, Sickerwasser und Industrieabwasser beschäftigten. Gemeinsam wurde das patentgeschützte PerfluorAd®-Verfahren entwickelt, mit dem sich PFAS effektiv und kostengünstig aus Löschwasser entfernen lassen. Die am Brandort verbleibenden PFAS-haltigen Reste an Schaum bzw. Wasser werden direkt aufgefangen – z. B. in speziellen Löschwasser-Auffangbecken von Industrieanlagen. Die anschließende Aufbereitung und Dekontaminierung kann, je nach Begebenheit, vor Ort oder extern erfolgen.

Mittlerweile hat Cornelsen viele unterschiedliche Wasseraufbereitungsprojekte und Dekontaminierungen von PFAS-belasteten Systemen durchgeführt. Das PerfluorAd®-Verfahren ist auf weitere Anwendungsfälle übertragbar und lässt sich mit verschiedenen PFAS-Aufbereitungstechnologien wie Ionenaustausch, Membranverfahren oder Aktivkohleadsorption kombinieren.

Während Cornelsen die verfahrenstechnische Umsetzung verantwortet, hat das Fraunhofer UMSICHT in den Bereichen Analytik, Chemie und IP zum Gelingen des PerfluorAd®-Verfahrens beigetragen.

• Harmful PFAS chemicals, used in thousands of consumer products, are shaping up to be the big environmental and health threat of our time. The EU is now the first in the world to propose a broad ban on these chemicals.
• Consumer brands worth more than €130 billion support the ban on PFAS.  
• Investors with assets in PFAS-producing companies are calling for an end to production.

Many companies are taking a stand against PFAS chemicals as the EU invites the public to give its opinions on the proposed ban on these harmful chemicals.

108 companies dedicated to phasing out PFAS chemicals from products and processes have joined the PFAS Movement, an advocacy campaign initiated by environmental NGO ChemSec that calls for comprehensive regulation of PFAS in the EU. The members comprise many well-known brands, such as Inditex, Urbanears and the Cookware Company, representing various industries— fashion, home goods, food, and personal care. The members are worth more than €130 billion in total revenue.

“A European ban on PFAS chemicals will have huge repercussions for all manufacturing industries and require much work for companies in the global supply chain. However, some parts of the industry oppose this ban, claiming that the change is too big to be justified. That’s why the support for a ban from such influential consumer brands as those in the PFAS Movement is so important. It’s a strong sign that businesses want to eliminate PFAS chemicals in products and processes”, says Anne-Sofie Bäckar, Executive Director at ChemSec.

A Hollywood Helping Hand
ChemSec’s PFAS Movement is not only supported by the brands but also by Hollywood actor Mark Ruffalo who became a PFAS activist after his involvement in the film Dark Waters. The film depicts the real-life events following the massive uncovering of PFAS contamination in the USA. As a result, several PFAS producers in the USA are now involved in multimillion-dollar lawsuits.

The health and environmental threats of PFAS, along with all the lawsuits, have also created attention among another influential group: institutional investors. Last year, 47 institutional investors with US$8 trillion in assets sent a letter to 54 chemical companies named by ChemSec, calling for them to halt the production of persistent “forever chemicals”.

The EU ban on PFAS
The proposed EU ban on PFAS is extensive and the first of its kind worldwide. The idea was initially initiated by Sweden, Denmark, the Netherlands, Germany and Norway, who have spent almost three years mapping the implications of a ban on PFAS chemicals in a dossier that expands over nearly 2000 pages. The proposal shows, among other things, that the emissions of PFAS were 75 000 tonnes in 2020. If this continues, the emissions are expected to sit at 4.4 million tonnes in 30 years. The emissions originate from the production and use of the many products that contain PFAS; furniture, cosmetics, electronics and many more.

Milliken’s Textile Business plans to eliminate all PFAS-containing materials from its portfolio by December 31, 2022.
The company announced a commitment to eliminate all per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, commonly referred to as PFAS, from the company’s textile finishes and fibers portfolio.

“Sustainability is a core value of our company, and we are and have always been on a quest for continuous improvement,” shares Halsey Cook, president and CEO for Milliken & Company. “As part of our sustainability journey, we are committed to finding innovative and meaningful solutions to reduce our environmental impact. While we do not always begin our journey with perfect information, we strive to make adjustments as new information comes to light.”

“As a values-driven company, we’re always evaluating the needs and demands of the markets we serve. Our promise to our customers is to engineer the highest-quality protective and performance textiles, and our purpose is to positively impact the world for generations,” said Chad McAllister, executive vice president, Milliken & Company, and president, Milliken’s Textile Business.

Fashion giant H&M Group and Danish retailer Coop are joining chemical expert NGO ChemSec’s call to action to end the use of harmful PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains.
This commitment comes on the same day as award-winning actor Mark Ruffalo and director Todd Haynes address the EU Parliament to speak about the true story that inspired the duo’s latest film Dark Waters, in which an environmental attorney takes on chemical giant DuPont and exposes decades of PFAS pollution.
ChemSec’s corporate PFAS initiative includes:

• A call on policy makers to regulate PFAS efficiently, without the possibility for manufacturers to simply swap one PFAS chemical for an unregulated “cousin”.
• A call on the chemical industry to put money into innovation and develop safer alternatives to PFAS for all kinds of products.
• A recognition that PFAS are a major health and environmental problem.
• A serious commitment to end all non-essential PFAS uses in products and supply chains.
• A call on all other brands to join this commitment and work towards a phase-out of PFAS in all kinds of consumer products.

The single biggest problem with PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop it from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing.  

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favoured for their durability and well-functioning properties; they provide properties such as non-stick, water repellence and anti-grease to many types of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans, outdoor gear and firefighting foam.
The industrial use of PFAS has been so prevalent in the last decades that today 99% of every human, including foetuses, have measurable levels of PFAS in their bloodstreams.   
What is worrying is that human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders, including various cancers, lowered birth weights and negative effects on the immune system.