From the Sector

Buildings are responsible for approximately 40% of all energy consumption and 36% of CO2 emissions in the EU. Improving energy efficiency in buildings therefore has a key role to play in achieving the ambitious goal of carbon neutrality by 2050 set out in the European Green Deal. A new briefing from the European Pultrusion Technology Association (EPTA) discusses how composite materials can help improve the thermal performance of the building envelope to satisfy increasingly stringent energy efficiency regulations. The EPTA report, Opportunities for pultruded composites in energy-efficient buildings, explains how pultruded profiles offer durable,  low maintenance solutions which can help reduce both operational and embodied carbon emissions from buildings in applications including energy-saving windows, thermal break connectors, and solar shading and cladding systems.   

“Economic and population growth mean energy demand is set to rise, making energy efficiency measures even more critical,“ comments Dr Elmar Witten, Secretary of EPTA. “Regulations and standards will continue to push for lower U-values for building elements, driving the increase use of materials and designs which minimise operational carbon emissions. Pultruded profiles offer an attractive combination of properties for designers of energy-efficient buildings – low thermal conductivity to minimise thermal bridging, together with excellent mechanical performance, durability, and design freedom.“  
 
It is estimated that today, roughly 75% of the EU building stock is energy inefficient, meaning that a large part of the energy used goes to waste. This energy loss can be minimised by improving existing buildings and striving for smart solutions and energy efficient materials for new builds. Areas of focus include improving glazing systems, better insulation of envelope components, and reducing unwanted solar heat gains. The low thermal conductivity of composites is being exploited in components and structures that help to minimise energy required for space conditioning. 

• Energy-saving windows and doors
• Thermal break connectors and structural assemblies
• Solar shading systems
• Rainscreen cladding and curtain wall facades
• Building a sustainable future

Suominen has launched a second nonwoven product, HYDRASPUN® Regal, that has received the Fine to Flush Manufacturer’s Generic Certificate from Water UK. HYDRASPUN® Regal was developed to meet the increasing need for flushable wipes that are dispersible according to the Water UK’s flushability standard.

HYDRASPUN® Regal is made of plastic free and biodegradable raw materials, containing only cellulosic fibers. It also has a low-level carbon footprint due to its high pulp content.

Suominen was one of the first nonwoven substrate manufacturers to receive the Fine to Flush Manufacturer’s Generic Certificate from Water UK. The first certification was granted for HYDRASPUN® Royal in Spring 2020.

Notus Composites (UAE), the award-winning producer of epoxy prepreg materials, announces the latest addition to its high-performance epoxy range with the launch of its new NE7 low temperature curing prepreg system. The Notus NE7 formulation allows composite manufacturers to cure components at temperatures as low as 70˚C, reducing energy consumption and enabling more cost-effective tooling options.

Notus Composites has developed the new NE7 prepreg systems for applications across the Marine, Architecture, Industrial and Wind Energy sectors, with the novel low temperature curing chemistry delivery significant cost benefits. Existing prepreg manufacturers can now use more cost-effective composite tooling, with new prepreg users able to switch easily from existing infusion or wet laminating processes without creating expensive new high temperature tooling.

NE7 prepregs can be cured at temperatures as low as 70˚C, with the standard cure cycle being 12 hours at 70˚C, matching the typical cycle time for an infused part with a component Tg of 85˚C. NE7 materials have a good outlife of 30 days at 20˚C and are available in all prepreg and Notus single sided N1-Preg formats with unidirectional, multiaxial, and woven reinforcements. NE7 can also be supplied as a resin film.

Notus has recently supplied NE7 low temperature prepregs to Dubai based Aeolos Composites for the production of their new Aeolos P30 racing yacht. The P30 is a futuristic new craft created by top German sailor and designer, Hans Genthe, with a super light carbon fibre construction and large sail area that promises spectacular on the water performance for a thirty foot yacht. Notus delivered a range NE7 prepregs for the build, including woven, multiaxial, and unidirectional carbon fibre reinforcements as well as adhesive films for core bonding.

A sector alliance that was formed to tackle issues relating to microplastics has completed the next phase of its project to develop a harmonised industry standard for the supply chain. The Cross Industry Agreement (CIA) has revealed the results of a fibre fragmentation trial that has been carried out in advance of establishing a CEN Standard (from the European Committee for Standardization). Once confirmed, the standard will also become an ISO standard under the Vienna Agreement, providing apparel manufacturers and policy makers with a vital tool as part of wider work to reduce microfibre shedding into the environment.

In 2018, five industry organisations agreed to join forces to proactively tackle the issue of microplastics, and signed the Cross Industry Agreement. The initial signatories were European industry associations that represent the European and global value chains of garments and their associated maintenance – the International Association for Soaps, Detergents and Maintenance Products (A.I.S.E.), European Man-Made Fibres Association (CIRFS), European Outdoor Group (EOG), EURATEX the European apparel and textile industry confederation, and the Federation of the European Sporting goods Industry (FESI). Together, the five organisations understood that the very first step to enable global action around the topic, was to agree a harmonised test method which would allow the collection and comparison of globally generated data, to aid the identification of solutions.

The microfibre shedding test method was developed thanks to the joint efforts and cooperation of experts from 28 European, American and Asian organisations; the result was handed over to CEN in 2020. Since then, representatives from the CIA have been working with CEN to fine tune details in order to meet the requirements for a CEN Standard. To verify the reproducibility of the method, the partners have carried out a round robin trial (RRT) to determine if the method could be replicated in different laboratories and produce similar results. 10 organisations participated in the RRT, which was co-ordinated by the CIA, sending fabric samples to all of the laboratories involved and then collecting and analysing the data.

The results from the RRT show statistically significant consistency, both within and between participating laboratories, which demonstrates that the method is both repeatable in the same setting and reproducible in other laboratories.

The CIA has submitted the results of the RRT to CEN, with the intention that the CEN Standard is confirmed in the near future. Once that has happened, it will be promoted throughout the apparel industry and will become a key tool for researchers, businesses and governments as they accelerate efforts to reduce microfibre shedding associated with garment production.

The Swiss group presents three creative inspirations to explore new shapes, colors, materials and define a new offer featuring a variety of solutions and ideas.
A tribute to health and to balance with nature, to the advanced goldsmith craftsmanship and to the effortless sophistication of industrial luxury: the FW 2022-23 collection by Riri Group is a true kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and materials, where three different creative inspirations meet – Biophilic, Stones&Gold and Industrial Luxe – for a high-end line of accessories.

All three paths are the result of state-of-the-art techniques, of an R&D effort and of the renowned expertise of the Swiss group. Part of the offer is also a selection of pieces by Cobrax Metal Hub, among which stand out buckles and locks with peculiar shapes and finishing.

Looking to the new season with a positive and enthusiastic attitude, the Group continues to work towards an increasing sustainability when it comes to products and processes. The collection, in fact, is a further step toward Riri’s path of green responsibility that the company has taken to bring actual improvement in its sustainable performance. This year, Riri Group published its first Sustainability Report, calculated in compliance with Global Reporting Initiative Standard (GRI), and adopted recycled polyester as production standard for zips’ tapes.

Biophilic
A way to honor love for life, this line emphasizes the importance of physical and mental wellbeing, answering the questions raised during the challenges faced in the last year. Balance with nature becomes a concrete product circularity operation resorting to manufacturing processes with a low environmental impact and to organic and biodegradable materials. Among them stands out recycled polyester for zips which is Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and other alternative fibers, such as nettle, a natural resource that is a great alternative to synthetic fibers. Rivets, zips, buttons and metal components are made of stainless steel, which guarantees durability and resistance, 100% recycled copper and aluminum – light, ductile and resistant to oxidation. Among the most interesting solutions are rice peel powder – used on buttons’ overseals – and eco-sustainable thermoplastic polyurethane, obtained from renewable raw sources.

Stones & Gold
Sophistication and advanced craftsmanship mark the pieces of this creative path which, inspired by goldsmith and glyptic craft tradition, reveals a delicate sense of positivity and richness. Gems, lapis lazuli, marble, and mother-of-pearl are protagonists of a refined selection of accessories designed to amaze and catch the eye, resembling actual jewels. Essential the use of gold, especially in its liquid form: dominating zips and buttons’ finishes, this precious and versatile metal becomes a decorative feature on printed tape.

Industrial luxe
The third proposal embodies the unique style and timeless elegance that have always defined Riri’s products, embellishing them with new engineering details which makes them very relevant. The accessories come with golden and black finishes, both glossy and matt, and explore shapes developed to bring life to a range of luxury accessories with a sophisticated industrial aesthetics. A dominating role goes to stainless steel, along with a selection of impactful and elegant tapes which includes jacquard options, for a retro-futuristic look that is revealed also through the use of mechanical elements, such as screws and etched metal sheets, and in the clean and boxy shapes of pullers and buttons.

• Achievement Ahead of Schedule

All of Sateri’s five viscose mills in China are now fully compliant with the emission limits set out in the European Union Best Available Techniques Reference Document (EU-BAT BREF) on Polymers, following recent verification of Sateri Jiangsu and Sateri China mills.

Verified by independent consultant Sustainable Textile Solutions (STS), a division of BluWin Limited (UK), the parameters assessed included resource utility efficiency, wastewater discharge and air emission.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri said, “Sateri Jiangsu was established in 2019 following an acquisition while Sateri China was built in the same year. We had aimed to have both mills meet EU-BAT’s recommended emission levels by 2023. To achieve this two years ahead of schedule underscores our continuous efforts in process improvement and control of pollutant emissions, and resource utilization efficiency. We will continue to pursue manufacturing excellence and invest in best-in-class technologies for all our mills – existing, acquired, and newly constructed ones – as part of our Vision 2030 commitment towards closed-loop and cleaner production.”

Chen Xinwei, Chairman of China Chemical Fiber Industry Association, said, "China's regenerated cellulose fibre industry has been progressing steadily in recent years. As a major viscose manufacturer, Sateri has demonstrated leadership in benchmarking itself against advanced domestic and international standards, focusing on low-carbon development, energy-saving and emission-reduction technology, and cleaner production to advance sustainable development, as well as enhance the company’s competitiveness. All other players in the industry should be encouraged to follow suit."

Sateri is a member of the RGE group of companies; Sateri’s other three mills - Sateri Fujian, Sateri Jiujiang and Sateri China (Jiangxi) - had attained EU-BAT compliance in 2020.

• Textile Exchange report shows growth of preferred fiber and materials market needs to be accelerated
• With post-pandemic fiber production increasing, the transition to preferred fibers and materials must be a non-negotiable decision, notes Textile Exchange.

According to a new Textile Exchange report, the market share for preferred fiber and materials grew significantly in 2020. The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021 outlines the market for plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and linen; animal fibers and materials such as wool, mohair, cashmere, alpaca, down, silk, and leather; manmade cellulosics (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro; as well as synthetics such as polyester, polyamide, and more.

The report is a unique annual publication about global fiber and materials production, availability, and trends, including those associated with improved social and environmental impacts, referred to as ”preferred.” The comprehensive report includes quantitative data, industry updates, trend analysis and inspiring insights into the work of leading companies and organizations as they create material change.

The results show that between 2019 and 2020 the market share of preferred cotton increased from 24 to 30 percent and recycled polyester from 13.7 to 14.7 percent. Preferred cashmere increased from 0.8 to 7 percent of all cashmere produced while Responsible Mohair Standard certified fiber expanded from 0 to 27 percent of all mohair produced worldwide in its first year of existence in 2020. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCFs increased to approximately 55-60 percent. While the market share of recycled MMCFs is only 0.4 percent, it is expected to increase significantly in the following years.

Brands’ increased interest in the use of preferred fibers and materials was also demonstrated by 75 percent increase in the total number of facilities (to 30,000) around the world becoming certified to the organization’s portfolio of standards in 2020. However, the report also notes that despite the increase, preferred fibers only represent less than one-fifth of the global fiber market. Less than 0.5 percent of the global fiber market was from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

Indeed, global fiber production has almost doubled in the last 20 years from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020. While it is not yet clear how the pandemic and other factors will impact future development, global fiber production is expected to increase by another 34 percent to 146 million tonnes in 2030 if the industry builds back business as usual. If this growth continues, it will be increasingly difficult for the industry to meet science-based targets for climate and nature.

Textile Exchange aims to be the driving force for urgent climate action, and its Climate+ strategy calling for the textile industry to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 45 percent by 2030 compared to a 2019 baseline in the pre-spinning phase of textile fiber and materials production, while also addressing other impact areas interconnected with climate such as water, biodiversity, and soil health.

• Full utilization of production capacity possible at the site
• New EU environmental requirements will be fully and promptly satisfied starting in 2024

The Lenzing Group, a global provider of wood-based specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, is investing GBP 20 mn (equal to EUR 23.3 mn) to build a new, state-of-the-art wastewater treatment plant at its site in Grimsby, United Kingdom. The investment is part of the company’s plans to reduce wastewater emissions by 2022.

Once it has implemented this project, Lenzing will have biological wastewater treatment plants that meet the best available techniques (BAT) quality standard at all its production sites. The plant design, which will employ a new technology developed as part of a research project, is fully aligned with the UK regulator and supported by the local authorities.

The site’s current wastewater situation complies fully with the EU Water Framework Directive as well as all local laws and regulations. The investment has been approved by the Supervisory Board, ensuring that construction can start this year and the plant will be commissioned well before the UK-ratified EU directive1 goes into effect. This will be the largest investment since opening this lyocell site, which manufactures premium products for technical and innovative market segments, among other things.

Responsible water use
After modernizing the wastewater treatment plant at the company’s Purwakarta site in Indonesia, the construction of the new plant in Grimsby marks another big step toward reducing the Group’s wastewater emissions 20 percent by 2022 (against a 2014 baseline). Responsible water use is one of the core elements of Lenzing’s “Naturally positive” sustainability strategy and is largely executed by using water efficiently in manufacturing and employing state-of-the-art water treatment technologies.

Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, confirmed the introduction of the first seamless trail running shoe made with bio-based Dyneema® fiber by norda™, a Canadian shoe brand.

Designed for runners by runners, norda™ was founded under the mission to empower athletes to unlock their peak potential through innovation and cutting-edge technology. The brand’s flagship product, norda™001, utilizes bio-based Dyneema® fiber to enhance performance and sustainability in a lightweight construction.

The shoe upper is seamlessly constructed with Dyneema® fabric, which benefits from the intrinsic properties of Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fiber™. Dyneema® fiber is engineered at the molecular level to provide high strength, low weight, waterproof and breathable properties – fusing the technical performance of ultra-light materials with aesthetic design that does not sacrifice strength or durability.

In addition to the increased foot stability and wearer comfort of the upper, Dyneema® fibers are also used to increase abrasion resistance and stretch in the shoe laces – providing four times the level of strength when compared to standard lace materials like nylon and polyester.

“When we set out to create the norda™ 001, our mission was to design an ultra-strong and durable high performance trail running shoe, and do it as sustainably as possible,” states Willamina and Nick Martire, Co-Founders, norda™. “To achieve our goal, we had to look outside of the standard materials used by the footwear industry. We realized the properties of bio-based Dyneema® beat everything available today.”

In line with DSM’s commitment to protect people and the environment they live in, bio-based Dyneema® boasts the same exact performance as conventional Dyneema® with a carbon footprint that is 90 percent lower than generic HMPE. Sourced from renewable, bio-based feedstock, DSM’s latest advancement in fiber technology uses the mass balance approach to further reduce the reliance on fossil fuel based resources, while still contributing to a more circular economy.

100% sustainability lives in the smallest detail, starting with the label, the only element that can tell the story of responsibility. This is exactly why, to be a truly credible 'ambassador', the label or tag must itself be responsible. This is why Nastrificio di Cassano has created NDC Green, the premium, Made in Italy and fully traceable range that guarantees the highest quality standards while respecting the planet.

NDC Green comprises 4 categories, all with influential international certifications that attest to Nastrificio di Cassano's responsible imprinting. Many new sustainability values are woven into the collection. Particular attention is given to end-of-life, but also to the choice of natural and high-tech materials with a low environmental impact.

A wide choice that speaks of responsible innovation, beauty and functionality: characteristics that have led C.L.A.S.S. (www.classecohub.org) to integrate NDC Green into its Material Hub which "contains a selection of fibres, materials and fabrics that share a DNA linked to research that since 2007 has been raising the bar of standards in order to offer innovations in step with the demands of the contemporary consumer" says Giusy Bettoni CEO of C.L.A.S.S.
NDC Green includes:

• LABìO ECO-SOFT®: made using compostable and biodegradable ingredients (as attested by TUV Austria), this product boasts performances and is resistant up to 10 domestic washings at 30°. The reference is produced with fifteen times less water consumption than cotton production and the resins used are GOTS certified.
• LABìO HANGreen is the smart solution for the creation of hard tags, hangtags, shopping bags and garment covers and, as LABIO ECO-SOFT® range, it made with  compostable and biodegradable ingredients as certified by TUV Austria and the resin is compostable, too. These peculiarities make this product unique.
• ACETATE NAIA™, the 'smart satin' that respects forests and oceans, is the NAIA™ single-ingredient solution produced by Eastman: the 100% traceable, compostable and biodegradable cellulose yarn in both soil and sea respects the natural growth rate of forests.
• RECYCLED POLYESTER: is made from post-consumer yarn recycled from GRS-certified PET bottles. Available in both satin and resinated taffeta versions, it guarantees excellent printability for an elegant and sophisticated look.