From the Sector

Progressive material innovations presented digitally: following the cancellation of this year’s fair due to the corona pandemic, Heimtextil is extending its range of digital services and launching a new online materials library entitled ‘Future Materials Library’. 24 future-oriented materials for interior applications can now be found at www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/future.

The curators of the new materials library are London-based futures-research agency, FranklinTill. “We are transitioning to a materials revolution that will help restore the balance in our relationship to our planet. As part of the Heimtextil Trends 21/22, we present a new selection of materials for interior applications with exciting innovations from all over the world”, says Caroline Till of FranklinTill.

A mix of commercially viable products and developments in an early stage

Imaginative designers and environmentally-aware manufacturers: the Future Materials Library 2021 offers materials pioneers a platform and presents a first-class mix of economically proven and revolutionary developments. FranklinTill has organised the materials in four themes: REGENERATIVE CROPS, REMADE FIBRES, HARVESTING WASTE STREAMS and SUSTAINABLE COLOUR.

Resources are running low

Thus, the new Heimtextil materials library tackles one of the main problems of the modern age: the shortage of resources on earth. In particular, textile production creates huge and continuously growing quantities of waste. And, over past decades, the design business has developed a ‘take, make and discard’ model of consumption that is incredibly harmful for our planet. In the climate-emergency era, however, future-oriented designers are learning from nature and working together with it. They endeavour to make use of the power of highly efficient natural circular systems to create textiles and materials that are better for both humans and the planet.

Heimtextil Trends: a guide for the international sector

The ‘Future Materials Library’ is part of the Heimtextil Trends that, for almost three decades, have been offering orientation for the sector by revealing design tendencies for the coming season. Even in the crisis, the Heimtextil Trends remain a vital part of the overall concept of the fair and provide important content for all target groups involved within the worldwide sector. Accordingly, Heimtextil aims to spotlight style-defining design developments taking place within the larger context of lifestyle trends. At the same time, the Heimtextil trend experts scan the exhibitors’ product world and identify unequivocal trends in the sector. In this connection, particular attention is paid to sustainable aspects along the entire value chain – in both the new digital library and live during the fair next January. 

• Create truly unique yarn designs: with up to 6 colors from a large predefined color range and infinite combinations of twisting & air entanglement
• Endlessly recyclable yarn solution - available in both standard PA6 and 75% recycled content EqoCycle PA6 yarn
• Efficient and flexible - all colors in stock to shorten lead-time; customized lot sizes

B.I.G. Yarns brings inspirational design freedom to high-end loop-pile contract and automotive carpets with the unveiling of ColorMind. The innovative yarn technology is B.I.G. Yarns’ first venture into a two steps yarn collection, offering a unique solution for creating multi-color PA6 yarns for any carpet design.

Available from mid-June 2021 in both standard and EqoCycle 75% recycled content yarn, designers are invited to work closely with B.I.G. Yarns experts to realize the designs they have always wanted. Combinations of variable levels of twisting and air entanglement, using up to 6 colors at once, elevate design possibilities beyond current limitations.

The ColorMind color bank features predefined colors, always in stock, meaning short lead times. Manufacturers can also benefit from customized lot sizes and bobbin length, creating even more flexibility and design freedom. To preview a taster of the potential directions opened up for loop-pile carpets, B.I.G. Yarns has used the technology to achieve its own “Optica” dot effect and “Illusion” wave effect as inspiration for customers’ design explorations.

“ColorMind offers never-seen yarn diversity to support a new level of design sophistication in high-end carpet segments. We’re very proud and excited to enter into two steps yarns with a solution offering something truly special, the result of intensive dedication from our design and development teams,” comments Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager, B.I.G. Yarns. “ColorMind combines our strengths in delivering high-performance, more sustainable yarns to fit the evolving demands of these segments, underpinned by our expertise in color sequencing and color mixing. We’re looking forward to exciting collaborations and innovative, eye-catching designs for future loop-pile carpets.”

ColorMind PA6 yarns are based on a unique Solution Dyed Nylon yarn and are suitable for Class 33 certification (heavy commercial use). The EqoCycle yarn version is mainly based on post-industrial waste and supports contract and automotive carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end carpets.

• Global online fashion retailer and UK supplier - Asos and Fashion-Enter Ltd. - teaming with Kornit for adoption of efficient, low-impact direct-to-fabric digital textile printing with zero water waste and accelerated production speeds

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced that global online fashion retailer ASOS and its supplier Fashion-Enter Ltd. are implementing Kornit Presto to explore the future opportunities presented by on-demand manufacturing.

Kornit Presto is the most advanced single-step solution for direct-to-fabric printing, enabling Fashion-Enter Ltd. to rapidly deliver test-and-repeat small product runs on behalf of ASOS. These production capabilities will enable ASOS and Fashion-Enter Ltd. to imprint designs on multiple fabrics at the push of a button, through a lower-impact production process that has zero water waste and accelerates production speeds by cutting out typical dyeing processes.

In Kornit’s pigment-based digital textile production capabilities and efficient workflow solutions, Fashion-Enter Ltd. sees an answer for brands serving the needs of today’s consumers, while reducing inventory waste and improving supply chain management and garment quality.

• Successful measures to fight against the COVID-19 pandemic with a focus on the safety and health of employees, customers and partners and securing sustainable business development
• Implementation of strategic investment projects and climate targets progressing on schedule – launch of first TENCEL™ branded carbon-zero fibers
• New level of transparency in the textile industry: introduction of blockchain technology
• Target setting: Lenzing raises the bar even higher and sets new sustainability goals

The Lenzing Group presented its Sustainability Report 2020 on April 22, 2021, World Earth Day. Featuring the title “Stand up for future generations”, Lenzing once again emphasized its commitment to taking responsibility beyond the products it makes. The non-financial report, prepared in accordance with the reporting standards of the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) and the Austrian Sustainability and Diversity Improvement Act (NaDiVeG) and reviewed by KPMG Austria GmbH Wirtschaftsprüfungs- und Steuerberatungsgesellschaft, illustrates how the company is responding to the global challenges of our time.

The 2020 financial year of the Lenzing Group was largely dominated by the COVID-19 pandemic. Lenzing took short-term measures to safeguard its business operations and mitigate the effects of fiber prices and fiber demand which came under increasing pressure. The priority was to protect employees and strengthen long-term partnerships with suppliers and customers. Following the current fight against the coronavirus and its consequences, the company continues to move ahead determinedly to achieve its sustainability targets, also against the backdrop of such a difficult market environment.

With the implementation of its science-based targets, the Lenzing Group actively contributes to mastering the problems caused by climate change. In 2019, Lenzing made a strategic commitment to reducing its greenhouse gas emissions by 50 percent per ton of product by 2030. The overriding target is to be climate-neutral by 2050.*

The launch of the first carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers certified as CarbonNeutral® products in accordance with The CarbonNeutral Protocol – the leading global framework for carbon neutrality – represents another important milestone from the reporting year. As of June 2021, Lenzing will also market the first VEOCEL™ branded lyocell fibers as certified CarbonNeutral® products.

Promoting the circular economy
Lenzing also sets standards for the entire fiber, textile and clothing industry with respect to the circular economy which is of such crucial importance in climate and resource protection. In order to enhance resource efficiency and offer a solution for the global problem of textile waste, the company developed the REFIBRA™ recycling technology. REFIBRA™ is the only technology in the world enabling the production of new lyocell fibers on a commercial scale from cotton scraps derived from manufacturing cotton clothing as well as from used garments. In this way, an important contribution is made to promoting circularity in the textile industry.*

New level of transparency in the textile industry
In addition to environmental protection, the issue of transparency along the supply chain poses a major challenge to the textile industry. Working in cooperation with TextileGenesis™, Lenzing offers an innovative solution to ensure greater transparency on the basis of blockchain technology. Following several successful pilot projects with renowned fashion brands, this digital platform was ultimately launched in 2020 to enable the traceability of textiles, from the fiber to all stages of production and distribution. Thanks to the innovative Fibercoin™ technology of the TextileGenesis™ platform, Lenzing and its partners are able to issue so-called “blockchain assets” in direct proportion to the physical fiber deliveries of the brands TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™. These digital assets function like a “fingerprint” and thus prevent adulteration.*

Target setting: Lenzing raises the bar even higher
The Lenzing Group operates in line with three strategic principles within the context of its “Naturally positive” sustainability strategy: partnering for change, advancing circularity and greening the value chain.*

*See attached document for more information..

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

• SGL Carbon receives €42.9 million funding under IPCEI for graphite anode materials (GAM) in lithium-ion batteries
• Funding in the amount of €42.9 million to 2028 for SGL Carbon GmbH from the German Federal Government and the Free State of Bavaria
• SGL Carbon project aims at European production of innovative anode materials as a key value-added step in electromobility

SGL Carbon, a leading supplier of graphite and carbon products, today received a funding notification for the development and industrialization of innovative anode materials made of synthetic graphite for use in lithium-ion batteries. The funding program is part of the second European IPCEI (Important Project of Common European Interest) / EUBatIn (European Battery Innovation) program, which aims at a competitive European value chain for lithium-ion batteries based on innovative and sustainable technologies.

SGL Carbon is one of a few manufacturers of synthetic graphite for anode materials in Europe. The company’s contribution to the IPCEI project ranges from the development of anode materials with increased performance, energy-efficient and sustainable manufacturing processes to novel recycling concepts. It also includes scaling them up to pilot scale and finally mass production. Over the project lifetime until 2028, the goal is to also establish a closed cycle for this cell component. SGL Carbon has already created a solid foundation for the project through previous investments such as the battery application laboratory at its Meitingen site. The German federal government and the Free State of Bavaria provide funding for the SGL Carbon project totaling €42.9 million, which can be drawn down over the duration of the project.

"With our development and industrialization project for new innovative anode materials and processes, we make an essential contribution to establishing a sustainable and competitive European value chain and circular economy for lithium-ion batteries. In turn, this enables us to support our customers with tailored materials and services in their innovation and industrialization process. We are very pleased about the support from the federal and state governments in this important task and would like to express our sincere thanks," explains Burkhard Straube, President Business Unit Graphite Solutions at SGL Carbon.

"In order to produce competitive, high-performance and particularly environmentally friendly batteries in the future, we need innovations. The companies participating in the IPCEIs base their battery materials, cells and systems pursued in the projects on their own research - in cooperation with their partners. This way, we ensure that the battery ecosystem being created in Germany and Europe will also place us among the world leaders in terms of technology," says Elisabeth Winkelmeier-Becker, Parliamentary State Secretary at the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology.

"The funding ensures value creation in a central high-tech segment with great future potential, which is ideally suited to Bavaria as a business location. In the course of the project, 25 jobs will be secured or newly created in Meitingen. SGL Carbon is an important company for the entire region and a major employer," says Hubert Aiwanger, Bavarian Minister of Economic Affairs and Bavarian Deputy Minister-President.
 
Synthetic graphite is utilized as anode material for lithium-ion batteries in many fast-growing applications such as electric vehicles, stationary energy storage systems and mobile consumer devices. Compared to natural graphite, synthetic graphite has a better performance, higher quality consistency and easier production scalability, as well as a better profile in terms of environmental footprint and safety in manufacturing. In the project described, SGL Carbon builds on its core competencies in the development and mass production of synthetic graphite.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced that it has become a The BHive® partner to help foster chemical compliance and management across the textile supply chain.

The BHive® is an innovative digital chemical management platform that provides at-a-glance information about chemical products to its users. It was developed by GoBlu International Ltd. to allow manufacturing facilities to easily create digital inventories of the chemical products used onsite using a smartphone. They can identify in a matter of seconds which products meet sustainability requirements of their brand and retail customers, who they can share this information with as well. This enables brands and retailers to achieve full transparency about the chemical use in their global supply chain. Now, over 30 international fashion brands and 500 factories are partnered with The BHive® to drive sustainable chemistry in the textile and fashion industry.

More than 2000 Archroma chemical products and dyes are now included in The BHive® database.
The company has been very active in the past few years in developing solution systems and innovations in line with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced. It’s our nature'.

Paul Cowell, Head of Archroma’s Competence Centers for Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, explains: "With the pandemic crisis, textile manufacturers are experiencing numerous logistic bottlenecks and challenges. With The BHive®, our partners have now an additional access path to the information about chemical usage and compliance for the Archroma products they keep at their facilities."

Intelligently designed clothes made with the latest manufacturing technology are the results of the partnership between on of the leading denim innovators ISKO and the Italian brand HIGH. A project, part of the SS2021 HIGH collection, is the start of collaboration in the pursuit of sustainable fashion.

Aimed at bringing a positive change both for the planet and its people, the project presents two pieces – jacket and pants – which embody HIGH’s approach to creativity and production: a wellbalanced mix of specialists’ expertise and a tireless investigation on the latest and most responsible fabric technologies. HIGH identified the R-TWO™ program as the right fabric ingredient, ideal to level up sustainability in its looks.

Relying on a blend of reused and recycled materials, this revolutionary platform works by embedding material circularity into the production process, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. With fully traced reused cotton coming from ISKO’s production loss, which is prevented from becoming waste by adding it back into the spinning process, and an efficient use of polyester materials which are spun into newly recycled fibers, the program can provide certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials. According to the percentage of material contained, these can be either the Content Claim Standard, Global Recycled Standard, Organic Content Standard or Recycled Claim Standard, ensuring better use of raw materials and resource efficiency while providing advanced concepts that don’t compromise on their look and performance.

Additionally, to meet HIGH’s performance needs, ISKO has brought to the table one of its most popular technologies, of course in its R-TWO™ version: Jeggings™, super-stretch denim technology. Soft and lightweight as leggings, it provides comfort with the look of authentic denim and provides the perfect, responsible solution to usher the partnership.

A decade long collaboration between Swiss textile innovator HeiQ and Spanish premium synthetic fiber manufacturer Nylstar, has resulted in the innovation of a revolutionary new premium antiviral and antimicrobial textile with zero pollution sustainable benefits, Meryl® Skinlife Force powered by HeiQ Viroblock Permanent, winner of ISPO Textrends Award for the Best Product.

The new technology is used exclusively on Meryl® Skinlife Force, an hi-tech fabric that combines the silver-ion active principle antimicrobial properties developed by HeiQ and Nylstar’s hydrogen-based technology which allows the creation of yarns with a very strong molecular cohesion structure. The Hydrogen molecular structure makes Meryl® Skinlife Force a high-performance fabric in terms of moisture management and breathability, offering a natural stretch without elastane as well as excellent durability thanks to its continuous and high tenacity filaments. The robust durability of HeiQ Viroblock Permanent is achieved thanks to the silver particles being added directly into the raw polymer of the yarn thereby keeping these properties active for the lifetime of garments. Fabric samples successfully demonstrated a very strong antimicrobial efficacy with over 99.99% reduction of both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria after 100 washes. Antiviral test is underway.

Both HeiQ and Nylstar will be “exhibiting” at ISPO Munich Online from February 1st to 5th. Nylstar won the Textrends 2021 Award for the Best Product in the Base Layer Category.

Tata Communications, a global digital ecosystem enabler, has been recognised by global environmental non-profit organisation, Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) with the distinguished ‘A-’ leadership score for implementing current best practices in sustainability for climate change. Tata Communications score is higher than the global average of ‘C’ and higher than the Asia region average of ‘D’. The Company scores the highest global score for playing a leading role in Climate Change governance, value chain management, energy efficiency, risk and opportunity disclosures in CDP 2020 reporting.

Tata Communications is among the top 34% companies globally to have received the leadership score for best practices out of 9,600+ companies that reported environmental disclosures this year. The scores are attributed basis a comprehensive peer benchmarking and sustainability performance.

The company made some strategic shifts in implementing several energy efficiency measures and this recognition reaffirms its focus on sustainability. In fiscal 2020, Tata Communications sourced approximately 15 million units of renewable energy and implemented emission reduction initiatives resulting in energy savings to the tune of 0.8 million units.

Tata Communications Sustainability strategy is based on the three facets of environment, social and governance (ESG) principles. The Company’s objective is to drive value creation for its stakeholders and drive sustainable business growth by managing risks and embracing opportunities, implementing robust governance practices and optimising the economic, environmental and social performance.