From the Sector

• C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 winner DUARTE returns to Milan Fashion Week launching its SEASON 2 “Eco-Street Dance” collection as a special feature at White Sustainable Milano inside the “Unveiling the fashion backstage” event

By mixing C.L.A.S.S. responsible materials, colorful prints, urban feels and artistic inspiration, the Portuguese streetwear brand creates a new style and a clear yet cool message for conscious fashion consumers
The rewarded 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub during Milan Fashion Week. With the support of WHITE, Duarte’s creations will be featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption).

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style that we can name “Eco-Street Dance”. The color palette explores the dark shades of grey, cream, blue and black, with artistic pops of color of a hopeful urban culture that tears apart posters from the past and turns them into a new brighter story. 

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Entirely made in Japan, it comes with Compostability and Ecotoxicity Certifications verified by Innovhub-SSI, RCS, OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 and the Eco Mark certifications. The factory is ISO 14001 certified, too.

The collection will mark the return of Duarte’s cool and responsible style to Milan Fashion week and White Sustainable Milano. “We are proud to support Duarte as her style, her creations, visual communication and message are so beautiful, innovative and responsible. On top of that, her message to the consumer is so clear and easy for everybody to understand. With Duarte it is very easy to make a “conscious choice” without any sacrifice, and completely in line with the C.L.A.S.S. manifesto” says Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO & founder.

• Unveil UK’s first-ever sustainable Fashtech Innovation Centre, displaying mass customization capabilities empowering designers, apparel brands, and other creatives

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashionx and textile production technologies and Fashion-Enter - a social enteprise, which strives to be a centre of excellence for sampling, grading, production, and for learning and development of skills within the fashion and textiles industry – today announced a first-of-its-kind Fashtech Innovation Centre in London. Aimed at bringing on-demand fashion and textile mass customization back to the UK, and unveiled on March 3rd and 4th, 2022 at Fashion-Enter's state-of-the-art training and manufacturing site, the Centre is fully supported by Kornit Digital's revolutionary, direct-to-fabric and direct-to-garment digital production solutions.

According to Kornit Digital’s Impact and Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) report, 30 percent of textile production is overproduction, while 95 percent of water waste is created as companies globally look towards more sustainable futures with customized, creative, and real-time offerings. Using proprietary streamlined, eco-friendly digital production technologies, Kornit Digital is transforming the fashion industry with more efficient and sustainable processes. According to the same report, by 2026, the Company’s systems will use up to 95 percent less water, 94 percent less energy and produce 83 percent less greenhouse gas emissions.

In addition to highlighting production capabilities that minimize carbon footprint, the Fashtech Innovation Centre serves as a prototype for brands and fulfillers seeking to mitigate logistical complexities, time-to-market, and supply chain risks by bringing production nearer to the end consumer. Eliminating overproduction and producing on demand, this nearshoring model drives profitability even in highly regulated and high-cost markets while contributing to local economies and removing transport-related waste.

Serving as a fulfilment site and academy for training production, the Centre includes both Kornit Presto direct-to-fabric and Kornit Atlas MAX direct-to-garment systems, as well as numerous graphic design and workflow tools and systems to enable cut-and-sew operations for a comprehensive “pixel to parcel to doorstep” cycle. Consolidating the process into a single location helps maintain full visibility and control of operations and products. Taking this one step further for creators and brands, visitors can experience the KornitX Global Fulfilment Network, enabling customers to create both new sales channels and accessibility to enable production on demand. Attendees can see how Kornit’s single-step digital production technology empowers unlimited graphic expression using less floor space, resources, waste, and time—all at higher margins.

“This Innovation Centre makes it possible to capture the full, end-to-end production process in one, single location,” said Jenny Holloway, Chief Executive Officer, Fashion-Enter. “The beauty of having print on demand means there are no minimums, so we can make one garment, or we can make up to 30,000 garments a week from all locations at the same fixed cost. Here, we can also train future generations on the right way of producing garments for today, responsive to demand, with minimal waste—ethical and sustainable. This is the future of fashion and textiles.”

Anlässlich der 5. UNEA (The United Nations Environment Assembly)-Konferenz in Nairobi, die am 2. März 2022 zu Ende ging und auf der eine Resolution zur Aufnahme der Verhandlungen für eine globale Plastikkonvention verabschiedet wurde, fordert der »Runde Tisch Meeresmüll« eine schnelle Reduktion des Eintrags von Mikroplastik in Nord- und Ostsee. In einem aktuellen Themenpapier unter Federführung des Fraunhofer UMSICHT zeigt der Runde Tisch zahlreiche Möglichkeiten auf, wie weniger Mikroplastik ins Meer gelangen kann. Dazu gehört, den Reifenabrieb zu verringern, emissionsärmere Textilien zu entwickeln beziehungsweise diese vorzuwaschen oder schärfere Vorschriften auf Baustellen für Dämmstoffe. Plastik im Meer ist eines der drängendsten Probleme auch für Nord- und Ostsee. Es wird in allen Bereichen der deutschen Meere nachgewiesen und kann die Fortpflanzungsfähigkeit und Fitness von Meereslebewesen insbesondere an der Basis des marinen Nahrungsnetzes beeinträchtigen. Das Gesamtausmaß sowohl von Menge wie Auswirkungen sei allerdings aufgrund unzureichender Untersuchungs- und Analyseverfahren noch nicht absehbar, so der Bericht.

Das neue Themenpapier stellt konkrete Maßnahmen vor, um den Plastikeintrag ins Meer zu verringern.
Mikroplastik stellt ein komplexes Umweltproblem dar. Es kann als direktes Mikroplastik in die Umwelt gelangen oder während der Nutzung durch Abrieb entstehen. Zur ersten Gruppe gehören zum Beispiel Kunstraseninfills oder Pelletverluste. Zur zweiten Gruppe zählen unter anderem Reifen- und Straßenabrieb, die Verwitterung von Farben und Beschichtungen, Verluste aus Dämmstoffen und die Faserfreisetzung aus Textilien. Die Reduktion von Kunststoffemissionen ist daher durch einzelne Maßnahmen nicht zu erreichen, sondern nur durch ein breites Bündel an Aktionen.

Das Papier des »Runden Tischs Meeresmüll« beruht auf den Ergebnissen einer dreiteiligen Workshopreihe, die vom Umweltbundesamt und Fraunhofer UMSICHT gemeinsam mit den Mitgliedern der Unterarbeitsgruppe zu Mikroplastik des Runden Tisches Meeresmüll organisiert wurde. Es zeigt, dass bei den Quellen und den freigesetzten Mengen noch immer auch auf Abschätzungen vertraut werden muss. Der Runde Tisch fordert daher weitere vertiefende empirische Untersuchungen, um zu belastbaren Zahlen zu kommen.

Stefanie Werner, Meeresschutzexpertin im Umweltbundesamt und Geschäftsführerin des Runden Tisch Meeresmüll: »Um das Mikroplastikproblem zu bekämpfen ist insbesondere die Kunststoffindustrie gefragt. Sie sollte Sorge tragen, die notwendigen vertiefenden Untersuchungen hinsichtlich der freigesetzten Mengen von Mikroplastik durchzuführen, um dem Vorsorge- und Verursacherprinzip zu entsprechen und so zur Lösung des zu großen Teilen durch sie verursachtem Umweltproblems beizutragen.«

28 konkrete Maßnahmen für den Meeresschutz
Jürgen Bertling von Fraunhofer UMSICHT, Korrespondenzautor des Themenpapiers: »Die Reduktion von Kunststoffemissionen ist durch singuläre Maßnahmen kaum zu erreichen, sondern erfordert zahlreiche inter- und transdisziplinäre Zugänge. Ähnlich wie bei den Erkenntnisgewinnen zum Klimawandel über die letzten Jahrzehnte werden auch bei den Kunststoffemissionen, die mit ihnen zusammenhängenden Wirkungen erst langsam verstanden. In beiden Fällen spricht die schiere Menge der Emissionen, aber für einen vorsorgenden Umweltschutz.«

Der Bericht des Runden Tisches Meeresmüll schlägt zu diesem Zweck 28 konkrete Maßnahmen vor. Besonders hohe Relevanz für den Meeresschutz haben dabei:

• Verringerung der Freisetzung von Mikroplastik aus Reifenabrieb durch Anpassung von Verkehrskonzepten und neue Reifenmaterialien;
   
• Entwicklung emissionsärmerer Textilien und besserer Verarbeitungstechnologien sowie Vorwaschen von Textilien;
   
• Verminderung der Einträge der besonders leichten und damit mobilen Polystyrolschaumstoffe aus der Bauwirtschaft durch Schärfung der Vorgaben zur Verwendung und Verarbeitung von Dämmstoffen und Einsatz von temporären Niederschlagsfiltern um Baustellen;
   
• Verbesserung der Regenwasserbehandlung als zentralem Eintragspfad für nicht intendiertes Mikroplastik bspw. durch Bodenretentionsfilter;
   
• Reduzierung des Einsatzes von Kunststoffen in umweltoffenen Anwendungen in der Meeres-/Küstenumwelt (z.B. Geotextilien, Korrosionsschutz von Offshore-Installationen);
   
• Ausstattung des bestehenden freiwilligen Konzepts der Kunststoffindustrie »Operation Clean Sweep« mit einer extern validierten Zertifizierung für Pellets von Kunststoff-Werkstoffen (Granulate, Flakes, Grieß oder Pulver);
   
• Regulierung von bewusst zugesetztem Mikroplastik und Entwicklung und Implementierung von Normen und Standards, um für bestimmte Produkte und Materialien die biologische Abbaubarkeit auch unter marinen Bedingungen sicherzustellen.

Runder Tisch Meeresmüll
Der Runde Tisch Meeresmüll steht unter der Schirmherrschaft des Bundesministeriums für Umwelt, Naturschutz, nukleare Sicherheit und Verbraucherschutz, des Niedersächsischen Ministeriums für Umwelt, Energie, Bauen und Klimaschutz und des Umweltbundesamtes

• IVL commits to being an industry leader in sustainability under ‘Vision 2030’

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, today reported a record FY2021 performance as the economic recovery drove demand across the company’s global footprint. 

Mr Aloke Lohia, Indorama Ventures Group CEO, said: “In 2021 we proved the resilience of our global footprint and our integrated portfolio across the polyester value chain. The past two years were an unprecedented period of disruption in which our business model’s robustness and our teams’ agility were tested. Having reset our business plan for the ‘new normal’ era, I have never been more confident in our model, our strategy, and our teams."

2021 Summary

In 2021, IVL delivered Core EBITDA of US$1,743 million (up 55% YoY) on production volumes of 14.72 MMT (up 7% YoY). Consolidated Revenue increased 38% YoY to US$14,629 million as consumer confidence rebounded and the company’s resilient model benefited from rising inflation, energy price hikes and supply chain shocks.

Macroeconomic tailwinds supported IVL’s performance, including government stimulus packages. In premium western markets, higher freight rates improved the company’s local import parity pricing advantage. In the fourth quarter, the introduction of China’s dual control policy widened polyester margins. 

IVL’s largest Combined PET segment posted a 39% increase in Core EBITDA to US$1,103 million in the context of strong demand and low inventories. The resetting of PET contracts in 2022 is expected to capture higher freight rates and the consequent beneficial impact on import parity. The segment is expected to enjoy improved margins in 2022.

Integrated Oxides & Derivatives (IOD) recorded a Core EBITDA of US$377 million, up 228% from a year earlier. With higher oil prices expected to continue into 2022, the segment will continue to benefit from shale gas economics, improving MEG spreads, and upside from Lake Charles (IVOL) ethylene cracker, which resumed operations in late 2021. The Oxiteno acquisition, expected to close in H1 2022, will bring complementary products, green energy innovation, and geographical diversification to the IOD segment.

Fibers segment delivered a 37% increase in Core EBITDA of US$268 million as volumes rose 11%. Margins widened due to tighter markets and a favorable product mix, with setbacks coming from energy and commodity price increases, while the ongoing semiconductor shortage impacted the Mobility vertical.

Mr D K Agarwal, CEO and CFO at Indorama Ventures, said: “The performance was a result of a number of important macroeconomic factors, such as heightened crude oil prices, supply disruptions, and resurgent consumer confidence as vaccinations were rolled out in the pandemic’s second full year. These factors led to improved margins and benefited us as a preferred regional supplier that can react quickly to fulfill our customer needs. Our transformation programs that we started three years ago are also delivering efficiency gains faster than planned. As the world emerges from the pandemic, our increased confidence in IVL’s resilient model sets a strong foundation for further growth through 2024.”

• Company underlines commitment to helping customers meet 2030 sustainability goals

Avgol® Industries 1953 Ltd, a global leader in the manufacture of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will use this month’s IDEA22 to underline its commitment to helping customers meet their long-term sustainability objectives.

The company will highlight the latest work in biodegradation technology for polyolefin nonwoven fabrics at the Miami Beach event, showcasing its own range of component nonwoven fabric solutions. Together with its sister companies from Indorama Ventures Limited (‘IVL’) – who will be presenting biodegradation capable polyolefin and polyester fibers – Avgol will discuss with visitors how specific products can help businesses achieve their 2030 sustainability goals.

BB Engineering GmbH (Germany) delivers a melt filter for recycling PET flakes to polyester manufacturer Indorama Polyester Industries (Thailand). Indorama will be using the type NSF38 filter in its recently assembled recycling system in order to produce rPET granulate from flake PET bottle waste. The NSF38 filter enables continual filtering – in other words, the system switches from one filter to the other during the process without the need for conversion shut-downs. The filter allows the processing of consumer waste for example, in the form of shredded PET bottles into new, high-quality rPET granulate. This granulate is subsequently processed into manmade fibers in spinning systems.

The NSF38 is a switchable filter with a filter surface area of ap-prox. 16 m2 on each side, with throughputs of between 1,000 and 1,900 kg/h. The filter inserts each contain 19 pleated filter candles (60 x 1,000mm Ø). The filter medium comprises a sin-tered metal fiber nonwoven with a filtration fineness of 25 μm. This ensures that the melt remains free of contaminants and gel particles, which in turn enables the production of high-quality end products.

The annual highlight of the industry is the International Conference on Cellulose Fibres in Cologne, where the latest innovations were showcased: new cellulose fibre technologies for various feedstocks and a wide range of hygiene and textile products as well as alternatives to plastics and carbon fibre for lightweight constructions.

This year, for the first time, there were 230 participants from 27 countries. About 60 were able to attend on site – with strict Corona safety measures – while the others were able to attend online and participate in questions and discussions.

The conference gave deep insights into the promising future of cellulose fibres, which fit perfectly into the current trends of circular economy, recycling and sustainable carbon cycles.

An important focus at the conference was alternative sources of cellulose. The increasing demand for cellulose fibres cannot be met in the long run with wood and used textiles alone. At the conference, a variety of agricultural by-products and biogenic waste were presented in presentations and panel discussions, such as orange and banana peels, grain and hemp straw. Much of this is high-volume and has not been put to high-value use so far. Exciting opportunities for the future cellulose fibre industry.

Innovation Award
Live at the conference, host nova-Institute and award sponsor GIG Karasek GmbH granted the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award to one of six highly interesting products.

• First Winner: Carbon Fibres from Wood – German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (Germany)
• Second Winner: Fibers365, Truly Carbon-Negative Virgin Fibres from Straw - Fibers365 (Germany)
• Third Winner: Sustainable Menstruation Panties: Application-driven Fibre Functionalisation – Kelheim Fibres (Germany)

• Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI) published a strategy paper on the defossilisation of the chemical and material industry with eleven policy recommendations

The Renewable Carbon Initiative, an interest group of more than 30 companies from the wide field of the chemical and material value chains, was founded in 2020 to collaboratively enable the chemical and material industries to tackle the challenges in meeting the climate goals set by the European Union and the sustainability expectations held by societies around the globe.

RCI addresses the core of the climate problem: 72% of anthropogenic climate change is caused directly by extracted fossil carbon from the ground. In order to rapidly mitigate climate change and achieve our global ambition for greenhouse gas emission reductions, the inflow of further fossil carbon from the ground into our system must be reduced as quickly as possible and in large scale.

In the energy and transport sector, this means a vigorous and fast expansion of renewable energies, hydrogen and electromobility, the so-called decarbonisation of these sectors. The EU has already started pushing an ambitious agenda in this space and will continue to do so, for instance with the recently released ‘Fit for 55’ package.

However, these policies have so far largely ignored other industries that extract and use fossil carbon. The chemical and material industries have a high demand for carbon and are essentially only possible with carbon-based feedstocks, as most of their products cannot do without carbon. Unlike energy, these sectors cannot be “decarbonised”, as molecules will always need carbon. The equivalent to decarbonisation via renewable energy in the energy sector is the transition to renewable carbon in the chemical and derived materials industries. Both strategies avoid bringing additional fossil carbon from the ground into the cycle and can be summarised under the term “defossilisation”.

To decouple chemistry from fossil carbon, the key question is which non-fossil carbon sources can be used in the future. Rapid developments in biosciences and chemistry have unlocked novel, renewable and increasingly affordable sources of carbon, which provide us with alternative solutions for a more sustainable chemicals and materials sector. These alternative sources are: biomass, utilisation of CO2 and recycling. They are combined under the term “renewable carbon”. When used as a guiding principle, renewable carbon provides a clear goal to work towards with sufficient room to manoeuvre for the whole sector. It enables the industry to think out of the box of established boundaries and stop the influx of additional fossil carbon from the ground.

The systematic change to renewable carbon will not only require significant efforts from industry, but must be supported by policy measures, technology developments and major investments. In order to implement a rapid and high-volume transition away from fossil carbon, and to demonstrate its impact, a supportive policy framework is essential. The emphasis should be put on sourcing carbon responsibly and in a manner that does not adversely impact the wider planetary boundaries nor undermines societal foundations. An overarching carbon management strategy is required that also takes specific regional and application-related features into account, to identify the most sustainable carbon source from the renewable carbon family. This will allow for a proper organisation of the complex transition from today’s fossil carbon from the ground to renewable energy and to renewable carbon across all industrial sectors.

RCI has developed eleven concrete policy recommendations on renewable carbon, carbon management, support for the transformation of the existing chemical infrastructure and the transformation of biofuel plants into chemical suppliers. The policy paper “Renewable Carbon as a Guiding Principle for Sustainable Carbon Cycles” is freely available for download in both a short version and a long version.

Link for Download: https://renewable-carbon-initiative.com/media/library/

Over 600 delegates from 58 countries subscribed to the latest VDMA textile machinery webinar on sustainable dyeing held on February 3rd, 2022 – a record since the monthly online series started in June 2020. The webinar, entitled ‘Resource-saving in Textile Processing – Continuous Dyeing and Washing’, involved the three companies Monforts, DyStar® and Goller.

In outlining the capabilities of Monforts Thermex hotflue lines for the Econtrol® continuous dyeing process, the company’s Textile Technologies Engineer Jonas Beisel observed that the current industry focus is very much on cleaner processes and products in accordance with the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) commitments of the major fashion brands, and with further regulations to be expected.

Cellulosics
Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cellulosic fabrics that has already been well proven on the market, with over 150 Monforts Thermex lines already in operation at mills worldwide.

Reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Benefits
The Econtrol® pad-dry process has a number of immediate benefits. Compared to the common pad-dry-pad-steam process, no salt is used and no steamer is required for a separate fixation step.

Compared to the pad-dry-thermofix process, no urea is used and no smoke or deposits are generated, and unlike with the cold pad batch process, direct feedback of the dyeing results ensures no batching time is necessary and guarantees good reproducibility from the lab to bulk production.

Complementary services and systems
Complementing the Monforts presentation during the webinar, Bertram Seuthe, Global Business Development Manager at DyStar, outlined the importance of specific Levafix® /Remazol® reactive dyes and Dianix® disperse dyes for sustainable dyeing processes such as Econtrol®, Cadira® Continuous and CPB knit. In these processes Sera® auxiliaries are also employed for optimised wash-off results.

Guido Seiler, Area Sales Manager at Fong's Europe, also introduced the latest developments of the Goller brand for the washing process, which can reduce water consumption by between 10 to 20%, as well as reductions in both heating energy and waste generation, depending on the specific fabric construction and required shade.

„Seed to shirt. From us to you. Nothing to hide.“: das klassische T-Shirt wird unter fairen Bedingungen gefertigt und ist zu 100 Prozent rückverfolgbar.

Das neue On-T entstand in Zusammenarbeit von On, dem Performance Laufschuh- und Bekleidungshersteller aus der Schweiz, mit dem Schweizer Garn- und Bekleidungsproduzenten Remei. On und Remei verfolgen die gleichen Ziele: hochqualitative, langlebige Produkte mit dem kleinstmöglichen negativen Impact auf die Umwelt zu erschaffen. On setzt auf Kreislauffähigkeit, ethische und natürliche Materialien und nachhaltige Beziehungen zu Partner*innen in den Produktionsstätten.  
 
Gemeinsam haben sie das On-T entwickelt: es kombiniert weiche Atmungsaktivität von Bio-Baumwolle mit Schweizer Technik und passt sich allen Gegebenheiten an. Es absorbiert auf natürliche Weise Feuchtigkeit, so hinterlässt es beim Schwitzen kein unangenehmes Gefühl. Eine Naht gibt dem Shirt einen einfachen, aber modernen Twist.

Die Reise des On-T beginnt in Tansania. Hier bauen geschulte Bäuerinnen und Bauern zertifizierte Biobaumwolle an aus gentechnikfreiem Anbau. Remei gibt den Landbaubetrieben eine Abnahmegarantie für die Biobaumwolle und kann so langfristige Partnerschaften und die Verfügbarkeit ermöglichen. Die Baumwolle wird bereits beim Einkauf vergütet, hinzu kommt eine Prämie, die über dem Marktpreis liegt. Was für Remei die wesentliche Grundlage fairen Handelns ist, gibt Sicherheit und Kontinuität bei den schwächsten Marktteilnehmer*innen, den Landwirt*innen sowie deren Familien. Diese Verantwortungsübernahme ermöglicht die Rückverfolgbarkeit der Endprodukte bis zum Ursprung.  
 
Nach Tansania geht es für das On-T weiter nach Indien, wo die Baumwolle gesponnen wird. In Litauen wird der Stoff hergestellt und schließlich auch das finale Produkt gefertigt. Wer den Weg des On-T selbst verfolgen möchte, muss nur das Label im Shirt scannen. Mit dem Tool my-trace by Remei ist die gesamte Lieferkette nachverfolgbar – von der Baumwollsaat bis hin zum fertigen Textil.