From the Sector

As part of Sappi Europe's full scale decarbonisation roadmap, Gratkorn mill is expanding the share of biomass to be used as an energy source, further driving the move away from fossil fuels as part of the mill’s contribution to the European roadmap. The project follows the recent modernisation of the power plant boiler which enabled the shift from coal to a combined approach of biomass and natural gas.

The mill is now embarking on a next step, enhancing its infrastructure and therefore capacity in order to handle the delivery, sorting and processing of increased biomass levels. This increased utilisation requires an improved biomass handling system at the mill as well as decentralised intermediate storage terminals within the surrounding regions.

"With our long-standing competent wood sourcing partner Papierholz Austria, we will continue our journey to move away from fossil fuels at Gratkorn mill and work towards a climate-neutral future”, says Peter Putz, Managing Director of Sappi Austria GmbH.

For the near term, Sappi’s decarbonisation roadmap includes close to 80 projects being carried out across its European mills by 2025.

“Our 2025 roadmap identifies the path we have embarked on towards a carbon-neutral future,” explains Sarah Price, Director Sustainability of Sappi Europe. The objective is to reduce emissions of specific greenhouse gases (Scope 1 and 2) by 25 per cent and to increase the share of renewable energy in Europe to 50 per cent by 2025 (compared to 2019). Additionally, Sappi’s 2030 science-based target is to reduce carbon emissions by 41.5% per ton of product. “We’re already making good progress towards these targets, with a large number of projects already well-underway or completed”.

How does a future-proof, circular and sustainable plastics economy look like? The answer is a balance ranging from plastics reduction to a sustainable use of recyclable plastics. After all, the increasing demand for plastics in high-value applications such as food packaging, car parts or synthetic textiles requires a holistic change. With four strategic approaches, researchers from the German institute Fraunhofer UMSICHT and the Dutch institute TNO now provide insights into how this future scenario could look like in their recently published white paper "From #plasticfree to future-proof plastics". Both organizations also start a hands-on platform for plastics in a circular economy: European Circular Plastics Platform – CPP aimed at removing existing barriers and sharing of promising solutions.

Versatile and inexpensive materials with low weight and very good barrier properties: That's what plastics are. In addition to their practical benefits, however, the materials are also associated with a significant share of mankind's greenhouse gas emissions. The production and use of plastics cause environmental pollution and microplastics, deplete fossil resources and lead to import dependencies. At the same time, alternatives - such as glass packaging - could cause even more environmental burden or have poorer product properties.

Researchers from TNO and Fraunhofer UMSICHT have elaborated a white paper that provides a basis for the transformation of plastics production and use. They consider the integration of the perspectives of all stakeholders and their values and the potential of current and future technologies. In addition, the functional properties of the target product, the comparison with alternative products without plastics, and their impact in a variety of environmental, social and economic categories over the entire life cycle are crucial. In this way, a systematic assessment and ultimately a systematic decision as to where we can use, reject or replace plastics can be realized.

Strategies for the Circular Economy
As a result, the researchers describe four strategic approaches for transforming today's largely linear plastics economy into a fully circular future: Narrowing the Loop, Operating the Loop, Slowing the Loop, and Closing the Loop. By Narrowing the Loop, the researchers recommend, as a first step, to reduce the amount of materials mobilized in a circular economy. Operating the Loop refers to using renewable energy, minimizing material losses, and sourcing raw materials sustainably. For Slowing the Loop, measures are needed to extend the useful lifetime of materials and products. Finally, for Closing the Loop, plastics must be collected, sorted and recycled to high standards.

Individual strategies fall under each of the four approaches. While the ones under Operating the Loop (O strategies) should be applied in parallel and as completely as possible. According to the researchers, the decision for the strategies in the other fields (R strategies) requires a complex process: “Usually, more than one R-strategy can be considered for a given product or service. These must be carefully compared in terms of their feasibility and impact in the context of the status quo and expected changes”, explains Jürgen Bertling from Fraunhofer UMSICHT. The project partners have therefore developed a guiding principle for prioritization based on the idea of the waste hierarchy.

A holistic change, as we envision it, can only succeed if science, industry, politics and citizens work together across sectors. “This implies several, partly quite drastic changes at 4 levels: legislation and policy, circular chain collaboration, design and development, and education and information. For instance, innovations in design and development include redesign of polymers to more oxygen rich ones based on biomass and CO2 utilisation. Current recycling technologies have to be improved for high quantity and quality recycling,” explains Jan Harm Urbanus from TNO.

Hands-on platform for cross-sector collaboration
“Therefore, in a next step, TNO and Fraunhofer UMSICHT are building a hands-on platform for plastics in a circular economy: European Circular Plastics Platform – CPP," explains Esther van den Beuken, Principal Consultant from TNO. It will give companies, associations and non-governmental organizations the opportunity to work together on existing barriers and promising solutions for a Circular Plastics Economy. The platform will also offer its members regular hands-on workshops on plastics topics, roundtable discussions on current issues, and participation in multi-client studies on pressing technical challenges. Regular meetings will be held in the cross-border region of Germany and the Netherlands as well as online. The goal is to bring change to the public and industry.

CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, introduced by Hologenix with global textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE®, has been awarded a Top 5 Selection in the Accelerated Eco category of the Spring/Summer ISPO Textrends 2025 Awards.

Last fall CELLIANT with REPREVE was also awarded a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of the ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/2025. In addition, in the spring the fiber was shortlisted in the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2023 Awards in the Sustainable Textile Innovation category.

Twice a year, ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Both companies are excited that this innovation, whereby CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology is embedded into REPREVE, a brand of recycled fiber, has achieved these honors. CELLIANT with REPREVE is a performance fiber made from recycled materials that have been enhanced with IR technology to provide wellness benefits to the consumer.  

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids in muscle recovery, increases endurance, and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.
 
REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

This award marks the third year in a row that Hologenix has had its CELLIANT technology recognized in the ISPO Textrends Awards. CELLIANT in pure white was a Top Ten Winner in 2022. The prior year, CELLIANT Viscose was a Selection Winner as well. 

Carbios has been selected among the 22,000 start-ups in the French Tech ecosystem to represent French innovation at the 6th “Choose France” Summit.  “Choose France” is an international business summit dedicated to the attractiveness of France launched at the initiative of Emmanuel Macron, the President of the Republic. Only ten companies, including Carbios, have been chosen to exhibit their technologies at the Château de Versailles.  On this occasion, Carbios announces that it has joined the Coq Vert community launched by Bpifrance in partnership with ADEME^[1] and the Ministry of Ecological Transition, to connect with other environmentally committed business leaders and advance its international deployment.

“With INRAE^[2], we chose to highlight Carbios at the Choose France summit as a symbol of French economic dynamism,” comments Philippe Gassmann, Secretary General Choose France 2023 (French Treasury). ” With its innovative “Made in France” biotechnologies that bring plastic into the circular economy, Carbios illustrates the wealth of  innovation within the French cleantech ecosystem.  I thank Carbios for its ambassadorship for this ecosystem to the 200 foreign guests attending the 6th Choose France Summit with the theme: Investing for a sustainable future.”

“Carbios is honored to have been selected by the Elysée Palace for Choose France.  This international summit provides an opportunity for meetings between the President of the Republic, members of the Government and the leaders of major foreign and French companies to discuss France’s economic ambitions and attractiveness,” commented Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of Carbios. “Carbios is in the midst of a major industrial rollout, with a first plant planned in the Grand Est region, and the international commercial deployment of our processes.  We are very grateful for the French Government’s support at this strategic time for the company.”
(Emmanuel Ladent, CEO, and Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer, representing Carbios at Choose France)

The Coq Vert community
Launched by Bpifrance, in partnership with ADEME and the Ministry of Ecological Transition, this community brings together 2,000 members who are players in sustainable development and are convinced of the need to act for energy and ecological transition.

^[1] ADEME = The French Agency for Ecological Transition
^[2] INRAE = France’s National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and Environment

Sustainable solutions provider Perstorp has turned its ambitious sustainability targets for 2030 into actionable roadmaps on the corporate level as well as for each of its production plants, outlining hands-on activities to lower greenhouse gas emissions, reduce waste, save fresh water and enable sustainable transformation throughout the value chain.

Over the last year, Perstorp has presented ambitious sustainability targets for greenhouse gas emissions (Scope 1, 2 and 3), as well as for water and waste, to be reached by 2030. The company has now supplemented those targets with roadmaps outlining the steps and actions needed to fulfil them and support customers in reducing their carbon footprint as well as lead Perstorp toward its long-term ambition of becoming Finite Material Neutral.

The largest greenhouse gas emissions are found in Scope 3, which includes raw materials and end-of-life treatment of Perstorp’s products. The Scope 3 roadmap includes the steps necessary to drive the transition of the product portfolio from fossil-based to more sustainable, lower carbon footprint alternatives. This, in turn, will help enable Perstorp’s customers to achieve their own sustainable transition. One key project in this roadmap is Project Air, an initiative aiming to replace all the fossil methanol that Perstorp uses in Europe with methanol produced from residue streams such as carbon capture and utilization (CCU) and renewable sources like biogas. This alone is expected to reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 500,000 tons per year.

The corporate Scope 1 & 2 targets (direct greenhouse gas emissions from Perstorp´s production plants and purchased energy), as well as the targets for water and waste, have been broken down into local targets and roadmaps, firmly anchored in the specific prerequisites for each production plant.

Initiatives on reducing energy consumption and shifting to energy from non-fossil or recovered sources can, for example, be found in the local roadmaps, while the steps to reach those targets are tailored specifically to each location. Among the planned local activities are also initiatives to replace fresh water used in the production with purified wastewater and to find different ways to reuse and recycle waste from production.

At ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14 this year, Monforts is organising two free-to-attend seminars and discussions on the potential of green hydrogen as a new energy source for textile finishing, drying and related processes.

Monforts is currently leading a consortium of industrial partners and universities in the three-year WasserSTOFF project, launched in November 2022, that is exploring all aspects of this exciting and fast-rising new industrial energy option.
The target of the government-funded project is to establish to what extent hydrogen can be used in the future as an alternative heating source for textile finishing processes. This will first involve tests on laboratory equipment together with associated partners and the results will then be transferred to a stenter frame at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center (ATC).

To be considered “green”, hydrogen must be produced using a zero-carbon process that is powered by renewable energy sources such as wind or solar. Currently, the cleanest method of hydrogen production is electrolysis, using an electrically-powered electrolyzer to separate water molecules into hydrogen and oxygen. The purity of the hydrogen is also important, and impurities must be removed via a separation process.

“Despite all its advantages, there are obstacles to overcome on the way to widespread, economically-feasible green hydrogen use,” explains Monforts Textile Technologies Engineer Jonas Beisel. “Until there are widely available, reliable and economical sources of this clean power, the cost of producing it will remain prohibitive. The infrastructure is not yet there, and hydrogen also has a tendency to make steel brittle and subject to fracture, which is something that requires further investigation in both its transportation and use in industrial processing.
“Green energy’s potential as a clean fuel source is tremendous, but there is much we need to explore when considering its use in the textile finishing processes carried out globally on our industry-leading Montex stenter dryers and other machines.”

At its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Monforts will be carrying out intensive tests and trials to assess the reliability of both processes and final products when different natural gas and hydrogen mixtures – up to 100% green hydrogen – are employed. The results will be closely analysed by the consortium partners because there are many parameters that at this stage remain unknown.

The aim, Beisel adds, is to both reduce CO₂ emissions and – following the rising prices and industry turbulence experienced by manufacturers over the past year or so – to further reduce a dependency on natural gas.

The three-year WasserSTOFF project is sponsored by Germany’s Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action, and with Monforts at the helm brings together industrial partners Pleva and NTB Nova Textil, with academic input from the Hochschule Niederrhein and the Technical University of Freiberg.

adidas has announced a new milestone in its journey towards replacing virgin polyester with recycled polyester . 96% of all polyester used in adidas products is now recycled polyester. The achievement of the ambition that adidas first set in 2017 – to replace all virgin polyester with recycled wherever possible by the end of 2024 – is on track to be achieved earlier than expected.

Since the first adidas high-performance shoe was made with recycled materials in 2015, the brand has been working towards reducing its dependency on virgin polyester. Last year it announced that in 2021, more than 90% of the polyester used in adidas products was recycled, which – if it had been virgin polyester - would have accounted for 390 thousand metric tons of CO₂e – the equivalent to the greenhouse gas emissions generated to provide power to 50 thousand homes in the US^[1].

According to Textile Exchange^[2], global recycled polyester fiber production volume increased in 2021, but still accounts for just 14.8% of all global polyester production.

Sport is about meeting challenges head-on and finding ways to overcome those – material innovation is no different. For the team at adidas, the road to 96% has been long and full of challenges. The confirmation of its polyester commitment in 2017 was a crucial step in helping to initiate a transformation across adidas and its entire supply chain. This transformation has been made possible through creating technical solutions and imagining new possibilities that previously didn’t exist.

To accompany the announcement, adidas has created a short film about its new ‘PB’, featuring star athlete Jazmin Sawyers. The film highlights the sports brand’s pride in making progress, and its determination to push further.

As the brand looks ahead to 2024 and beyond, it will continue to expand its focus beyond recycled polyester. It will be doing this through three main areas of focus: changing materials by testing and scaling new raw materials, rethinking entire processes to design products that have a circular end-of-life solution, and reducing its carbon footprint.

^[1] adidas Footprint Analytics team
^[2] Textile Exchange Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report, October 2021, https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2022/10/Textile-Exchange_PFMR_2022.pdf

Sustainable solutions provider Perstorp has added new corporate sustainability targets, for water and waste, to its sustainability strategy. Its long-term sustainability ambition is to become Finite Material Neutral, which involves water and waste, along with raw materials, energy and catalysts. In 2021 the company set its first 2030 targets, for greenhouse gas emissions (using approved science-based targets) and (eco) toxic impact. Now Perstorp has added new sustainability targets that will address its long-term ambition.

These new 2030 corporate targets (all measured using 2019 as the base year) are:

• 30% absolute reduction of freshwater consumption
• 30% absolute reduction of hazardous waste directed to disposal
• 30% absolute reduction of non-hazardous waste directed to disposal

"Fresh water consumption and waste are two areas of big importance in reducing our environmental impact and working toward increased circularity," says Anna Berggren, Vice President Sustainability at Perstorp Group. "Fresh water scarcity is already a fact around the world, and we have a responsibility to reduce our consumption and utilize alternative water sources. We must also minimize waste generation and find new circular solutions of reusing and recycling the waste streams into new products, either ourselves or so that a third party can use them as raw material. We have set ambitious and absolute sustainability targets, that are to be achieved regardless of production growth. To be able to reach these targets we have several large projects planned that will contribute significantly."

All Perstorp production plants use water for multiple purposes, including, for example: for cooling, as a solvent for chemical reactions, as a carrier for products, and as a heat-transfer medium. One way to reduce fresh water consumption is to purify and recycle wastewater. Perstorp sees this as an important core technology and is planning to invest in wastewater recycling projects at several of its production sites.

A key to reducing waste directed to disposal is to develop circular solutions that use waste streams as raw materials for new products. One example is Project Air, in which captured carbon dioxide together with residue streams from Perstorp's production plant in Stenungsund, Sweden, will serve as raw material for production of sustainable methanol that will replace all the virgin fossil methanol used by Perstorp in Europe.

Die Hochschule Niederrhein (HSNR) verstärkt ihr internationales Engagement. Dazu plant sie die Einführung eines Double Degree-Bachelorstudiengang zum Thema Smart Textiles/Textile Electronics ab 2025/2026. Neben der University of Borås in Schweden, die das Studienangebot ebenfalls einführen will, möchten die Hasselt-University in Belgien und das industrienahe Politeknik STTT Bandung in Indonesien einzelne Module in ihrem Lehrplan übernehmen.

An den Inhalten arbeiten die Projektpartner im Rahmen des Projektes „Edu4SmartTex“, das mit knapp einer Million Euro vom Deutschen Akademischen Austauschdienst (DAAD) gefördert wird.

Tina Martina, Direktorin der Politeknik, Dr. Ida Nuramdhani und ihr Kollege Dr. Mohamad Widodo sind aktuell in Krefeld und Mönchengladbach, um sich über die Umsetzung der Lehre an der HSNR zu informieren und in einem Workshop das gemeinsame Lehrmodul „Sustainability and Circular Economy“ (Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft von Smart Textiles) zu erarbeiten. Hier werden Lehr-Inhalte und Ziele diskutiert. Das Modul soll eines von insgesamt sieben des geplanten Studiengangs sein.

Involviert sind neben dem Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik auch die Fachbereiche Elektrotechnik und Informatik, Wirtschaftswissenschaften, Sozialwesen sowie Design, um Synergieeffekte zu nutzen und Kompetenzen zu bündeln.

„Austausche an den Partnerhochschulen sind ein wichtiger Punkt für uns. Zudem werden viele Lehrveranstaltungen digital ablaufen, sodass sich die Studierenden flexibel von überall zuschalten können“, so der wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiter Joel Schüßler, der das von Professorin Anne Schwarz-Pfeiffer (Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik) und Professorin Ekaterina Nannen (Elektrotechnik und Informatik) initiierte Projekt begleitet.

Weitere geplante Module beschäftigen sich unter anderem mit Programmierung und App-Entwicklung, Unternehmensgründung sowie Forschung und Industrie. In diesem Fall soll auch mit einem Praxispartner zusammengearbeitet werden.

Freudenberg recently completed the installation of 13,000m2 of photovoltaic cells on the roof of its new Nantong factory. With a total capacity of 1.6 MW, the new rooftop installation is projected to produce 1.5 million kWh of green electricity each year. In addition to reduced energy consumption from the grid, this new installation will lower CO2 emissions by approximately 1,200 tons/year.

Beyond the photovoltaic installation, Freudenberg has integrated sustainability into the Nantong factory’s design, with advances in energy conservation and emissions and loss reduction.
The factory uses valley voltage to cool water in its reservoir that is applied to A/C and machine temperature management during working hours. The new waste gas treatment technology enables hot water collected by heat exchangers to be directly reused in production, thereby reducing thermal energy waste. Furthermore, the factory applies a new multi-phase waste gas treatment technology to reduce volatile organic compounds (VOC) emissions. The factory has also incorporated new methods to improve the A-grade rates of bi-elastic interlinings and shirt interlinings, further reducing waste while improving garment quality.

As part of the Group’s sustainable development strategy, Freudenberg Apparel has also launched its House of Sustainability to minimize the impact of production processes on the environment and help customers achieve their sustainability goals, with responsible products across the seasons.