From the Sector

Mountains of waste, plastic-infested oceans, negative CO2 footprints – the need for more sustainable ways of living has never been more urgent. Consequently, it is logical that recycling solutions are becoming increasingly important within the textile industry. This was also tapped into at the first virtual Global Fiber Congress in Dornbirn with a session that focused specifically on the topic. In front of around 400 participants, Markus Reichwein, Head of Product Management at Oerlikon Barmag, also spoke about solutions currently on the market.

As one of only manufactureres, the Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment offers the entire mechanical recycling chain –from preparing the recycled materials, producing the melt all the way through to the textured package. Here, the company utilizes the VacuFil solution supplied by its subsidiary Barmag Brückner Engineering (BBE) –which, in addition to mastering bottle-to-bottle and bottle-to-textile processes, is also able to process textile waste into chips. This permits the running of textile production operations very much in line with the zero-waste philosophy.

VacuFil ensures a stable process in the case of recycled quality yarns
The reliable removal of contaminants is vital for a stable and efficient spinning process and outstanding yarn quality. At the same time, stable operating conditions with minimal fluctuations are essential. The greatest challenge here is the differing qualities of the bottle flakes fed into the system, as the extrusion process is barely able to balance these fluctuations. Here, the VacuFil concept counters with blending silos, which reduce the differences in the viscosity of the polymers considerably and guarantee high yarn and fabric quality.

The VacuFil concept is installed upstream to an Oerlikon Barmag POY system, which transforms the recycled melt into filament yarn of the accustomed high quality. As texturing solutions, Oerlikon Barmag offers its state-of-the-art automatic eAFK-series systems, including the latest generation of the eAFK Evo, which was unveiled at the ITMA Barcelona last year. Yarn manufacturers wishing to continue texturing manually can use the eFK series.

With the VarioFil R+, producers of smaller batches now also have a compact system with an integrated recycled materials preparation unit at their disposal. The system offers a special extrusion system for bottle flake materials, the very latest metering and mixing technology for spin-dying and expanded 2-stage melt filtration. The four spinning positions are each equipped with an Oerlikon Barmag 10-end WINGS POY winder.

While mechanical recycling has already been extensively developed, chemical recycling for mixed fabrics is still presenting the textile industry with huge challenges. The Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment is currently working on solutions and concepts for transforming these fabrics into new textiles.

Sappi Europe received a platinum score in the latest EcoVadis rating. On of the leading global providers of sustainable woodfibre products and solutions retained its top position from the previous year among the leading one per cent of all companies assessed which exhibit high activity and responsibility with regard to corporate social responsibility (CSR).

• Sappi Europe receives top rating for sustainability
• Unlocking the power of renewable resources to benefit people, communities and the planet

As part of its clear strategic goals in relation to sustainability and environmental protection, Sappi reached a new milestone. A market leader in environmentally friendly packaging and graphic papers received a platinum score in this year’s sustainability rating from EcoVadis, establishing itself as one of the top performers, with a score well above the overall average. The EcoVadis rating covers a total of 21 criteria, which in turn are divided into four general areas: environment, labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.

Encouraging sustainable operations across the entire value chain have been a key part of Sappi’s corporate strategy for many years. Sappi’s entire business model and investments in research and development are based on the use of renewable materials. The environment management approach of the global company includes a variety of strategies designed to improve its ecological footprint. For 2025, Sappi has linked its sustainability targets to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals. Sappi has long held principles based around People, Planet and Prosperity and with  a heightened focus on seven of the SDG’s they believe they can deliver  real impact and contribute to the global sustainable development agenda.

The platinum rating from EcoVadis demonstrates that Sappi not only talks about sustainability, but actively works towards ensuring it in a very practical way. The whole world is talking about sustainable solutions and looking for alternatives to fossil fuels. Sappi is focused on providing product solutions to the market. A few weeks ago, the market leader presented a number of solutions relating to functional paper packaging as part of its ‘Pro Planet Paper Packaging’ campaign to enable sustainable, high-quality packaging for food and non-food products.

Sappi Europe is extremely proud to have obtained the EcoVadis Platinum rating and while certification and recognition go a long way to helping our work we also acknowledge at Sappi Europe that we are part of a global community that need to continue to strive in all our business areas to create the change needed to help our customers become truly sustainable. The recyclable nature of products derived from woodfibre are essential to creating a more circular economy, where the world’s resources are kept in use longer and more creatively. By responsibly sourcing materials, reducing material waste and emissions , carefully considering product end-of-life, and aiming to use the full potential of trees, we actively promote more sustainable systems explains Sarah Price, Sappi Europe’s Sustainability Manager

Technologies with an excellent environmental performance throughout the entire product life cycle – that is what “Autoneum Pure.” stands for. In future, components that meet the highest standards in terms of sustainability and eco-friendliness can be identified at a glance under this label. This also includes the innovation “Mono-Liner” for wheelhouse outer liners.

As innovation leader in acoustic and thermal management, Autoneum continuously invests in the development and production of resource-saving components that make cars lighter and thus more climate-friendly. In view of an increasing sustainability awareness and the correspondingly greater information needs on environmentally-friendly vehicle components, the Company has now launched Autoneum Pure. The label determines particularly sustainable technologies, thereby guiding car manufacturers in product selection for future models.

Autoneum Pure is based on a comprehensive set of criteria assessing the sustainability performance of a product in all four phases of its life cycle: material procurement, production, use and end of life. For example, components with a high content of recyclable materials or those that achieve significant weight savings compared to comparable standard components qualify for the “Autoneum Pure.” label. Autoneum already offers various multifunctional technologies that meet the high standards for Autoneum Pure products: Ultra-Silent for underbody systems or battery undercovers, Di-Light for carpet systems, Prime-Light and IFP-R2 for inner dashes and floor insulators as well as Hybrid-Acoustics PET for e-motor encapsulations and engine-mounted parts, which was launched in fall 2019.

With Mono-Liner, the latest innovation for wheelhouse outer liners is also included in the Autoneum Pure portfolio. Among other things, the Mono-Liner-based components convince thanks to their lightweight construction, thereby contributing to lower vehicle weight with correspondingly less fuel consumption and emissions. The excellent life cycle assessment is also based on their particularly resource-saving manufacturing: Production cut offs of the components, which consist to a large extent of recycled PET fibers, can be processed into pellets and completely returned to the manufacturing process as fibers. An SUV and a crossover model from a US vehicle manufacturer already benefit from Mono-Liner wheelhouse outer liners.

Anahid Rickmann, Head of Corporate Communications & Responsibility, explains: “With Autoneum Pure we are the first automotive supplier to establish a sustainability label in the field of acoustic and thermal management. Autoneum Pure is part of the Company's Advance Sustainability  Strategy 2025 and sets industry standards in product communication.”

Non-contact precision spray technology enhances productivity, sustainability and process control

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has announced that it will showcase the TexCoat G4 non-contact precision spray fabric finishing system at the Techtextil North America tradeshow, held from May 12 to 14, 2020, in Atlanta (booth #3048).

With extensive sustainability benefits, unprecedented tracking and process control, and industry 4.0 integration, the TexCoat G4 provides consistently high-quality fabric finishing, with no chemistry waste, as well as minimal water and energy consumption. 

Baldwin’s innovative non-contact spray technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes. The TexCoat G4 consistently and uniformly sprays chemistry across the fabric surface and applies it only where needed, on one or both sides of the fabric. Customers can expect no bath contamination during the finishing process, as well as minimal downtime during changeovers, which are made easy with recipe management that includes automated chemistry and coverage selection.

The TexCoat G4 also enhances sustainability by wasting no chemistry during color, fabric or chemistry changeovers, and because only the required chemistry volume is applied to the fabric, wet pick-up levels can be reduced by up to 50 percent—leading to 50 percent less water and energy consumption. Furthermore, in single-side applications, drying steps can be eliminated for various textiles, including those that are back-coated and laminated, thereby streamlining and simplifying the production process.

Focus on Sustainability and Climate Change

Passion for Cotton: The 35th International Cotton Conference Bremen starts on 25 March in the Hanseatic city’s historic Town Hall. But before subject-specific questions are discussed in depth in the individual sessions, the concise and inspiring keynotes by leading business experts from science and industry will draw attention to the current trends and challenges in the industry at the start of the conference. A large part of the presentations is shaped by the current discussion on environmental and sustainability issues and the resulting consequences for the global economy.

Climate Change and Sustainability

“Climate change - a storm in a teacup?” asks Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee, Washington D.C., USA, in a provocative speech. The aim of his presentation is to work out the challenges of climate change especially for agriculture and cotton production. This should form the basis for later discussion on concrete approaches and solutions within the cotton community.

With his lecture “The HUGO BOSS sustainability programme ... and what our customer has to do with it” Andreas Streubig, Director of Global Sustainability at Hugo Boss AG, Metzingen, Germany, rolls up the textile value chain from a different angle, starting at the consumer level. As a representative of a premium brand for women's and men's clothing, Streubig discusses sustainability as a strategic element of the corporate strategy and provides information on how elements of the strategy are being implemented at Hugo Boss.

Rüdiger Senft, Head of Sustainability at Commerzbank, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, looks at the changing role of banks in financing the cotton market. In addition to a general introduction to the topic of sustainability and banking regulation, Senft's presentation deals with the financing of the cotton trade from a social and ecological point of view.
The opening session on 25 March is hosted by Bill Ballenden, founder and owner of Dragontree, Swindon, UK, an online auction platform for the cotton trade. As a former cotton manager for Louis Dreyfus in Europe and Asia, Bill Ballenden has many years of experience in the industry.

Cross-Cutting Issues: Digitalisation, Gender, Value Chains

The subsequent session in the conference programme with the headline “A Wider View” is devoted to currently defining trends and important cross-cutting issues in the industry. This goes far beyond classic cotton themes.

A lecture by Mark Messura, Senior Vice President, Global Supply Chain Marketing for Cotton Incorporated, Cary, North Carolina, deals with the role of cotton in an increasingly digitally controlled supply chain. Significant keywords here are faster delivery times, vertical integration, transparency and traceability.

The presentation by Roger Gilmartin, Managing Director of Tri-Blend Consulting, Charlotte, USA, entitled “The secret recipe for timely, cost-optimised and high-quality cotton clothing” promises exciting and enlightening insights. Tri-Blend Consulting conducts studies on the performance of different cotton varieties during the entire consumption process to the finished yarn and evaluates them from an economic point of view.

Amy Jackson, from the Better Cotton Initiative, London, UK, presents ICA Liverpool's “Women in Cotton” initiative. With this commitment, the initiative aims to increase the influence of women in the cotton industry and give them a stronger voice, for example by building networks in cooperation.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi, International Strategic Management Consultant at the Gherzi Textile Organisation, Switzerland, gives an insight into the current development of the value chain for cotton, textiles and clothing in Africa. Looking ahead to the coming decades, also in view of population growth, Africa is seen as having a high potential for building economic structures to improve income and prosperity.

Thomas Schneider, Professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Berlin and active in the field of production planning and control, textile materials and materials testing will host the session. A leading light in his field, Thomas Schneider has more than 30 years of experience in scientific and application-oriented research in the textile and fibre sector, including at the Fibre Institute Bremen e.V.

Sateri has scored ‘A-‘ in CDP (formerly Carbon Disclosure Project) for Climate Change in 2019, placing it at Leadership band and the top 27% of companies in its sector, for implementing current best practices. And making Sateri World’s First Viscose Producer to Reach Leadership Band

This is the first time Sateri has participated in this annual voluntary reporting. It is also the first time that a viscose producer has reached Leadership band. Sateri attained an ‘A’ for more than half of the 11 categories that it was assessed for, including value chain engagement, Scope 1,2,3 emissions, and governance. Its ‘A-‘ overall score is higher than the ‘C’ average globally, in Asia, and in the Textiles and Fabric Goods sector; no companies in the same sector scored ‘A’.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “We are very pleased to achieve such a commendable score on our first attempt at CDP reporting. It is a validation of our efforts and actions to combat climate change and our contribution towards decarbonising the textile industry. The CDP platform not only helps us measure and benchmark our sustainability performance against more than 8,400 companies globally, but also serves as a management tool for continuous improvement.”

Sateri has made great strides in the last year on emission reduction work. In June 2019, Sateri and the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) jointly launched the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Programme. The programme invites Sateri’s value chain partners to participate in the Climate Stewardship 2030 Initiative to set a decarbonisation pathway for the fashion industry to reduce the industry’s GHG emissions by 30% by 2030. Results of the first phase of the programme were published in the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Whitepaper 2020, which was shared at COP25 in Madrid last year.

Filo d’Oro has been selected by Première Vision to exhibit within the SMART CREATION area, the key research and sourcing space for those looking for new generation of sustainable solutions. An informative, educational, visionary and multimedia space where exhibitors, designers, buyers and fashion brands can experience and truly visualize the progress the industry is making in terms of responsibility. At the show in Paris above all they will present a consolidated system of collaborations and a virtuous network that works side by side to make the difference with certified superior quality products for the international market.

Within Filo D’oro, on the occasion of the inclusion in the Smart Creation, they present innovations that reflect "a real commitment to cultural sustainability as well as industrial and production". The organic silks are made with natural fibers from organic farming, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification guarantees both the quality of the raw materials and the sustainability of all production processes. The FSC® certified viscose comes from forests with sustainable management that respects the environment and the population, other viscose developments are made with Ecovero™ yarn from certified and controlled sources. The polyesters are GRS certified, they are made with Newlife™, a yarn born from the transformation through mechanical process of post-consumer plastic bottles collected in northern Italy, whose production process is entirely 100% Made in Italy. Some proposals combine Newlife™ with ECOANTEX, a yarn resulting from the transformation of post-industrial waste and the selective collection of Pet packaging.

Gesellschaftliche Verantwortung und nachhaltiges Handeln stehen seit der Verselbständigung von Autoneum im Fokus des Unternehmens. Um bestmögliche Resultate zu erzielen, hat Autoneum vergangenes Jahr einer Vielzahl an quantitativen und qualitativen Zielen in den Bereichen „nachhaltige Produkte und Produktionsprozesse“, „fairer und attraktiver Arbeitsplatz“, „Good Corporate Citizenship“ und „verantwortungsvolle Beschaffung“ für 2025 verabschiedet. 2018 wurden wichtige Erfolge in allen Teilbereichen erzielt.

Durch die konsequente Umsetzung von Ökoeffizienzprojekten – weltweit insgesamt über 80 – hat das Unternehmen 2018 seine Umweltauswirkungen weiter reduziert. So sind nicht nur die Abfallmengen (–5.9%), sondern auch der Wasserverbrauch (–13.4%) stark gesunken. Gleichzeitig haben verschiedene Werke – vor allem in Asien und Nordamerika – ihre Recyclingkapazitäten erweitert, wodurch das Volumen des in der Fertigung wiederverwerteten Produktionsausschusses signifikant anstieg (14.9%).

Um die Arbeitsbedingungen insbesondere in der Produktion weiter zu verbessern, sind 2018 in allen Business Groups Massnahmen zur Arbeitssicherheit und zum Wohlbefinden am Arbeitsplatz ergriffen worden. Eine im Herbst an allen Standorten durchgeführte Umfrage zur Mitarbeiterzufriedenheit hat erste positive Resultate bestätigt.

Eine vollständige Übersicht über alle Ziele und Aktivitäten des vergangenen Jahres ist im Corporate Responsibility-Report 2018 aufgeführt und unter www.autoneum.com/de/corporate-responsibility/ verfügbar.

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

CHOMARAT, the specialist in composite & construction reinforcements and coated fabrics, has demonstrated the Group’s determination to pursue a sustainable process by earning environmental management (ISO 14001) and energy management (ISO 50001) certification for its French sites. “By obtaining both ISO 14001 and ISO 50001 certification, CHOMARAT now has a tested and standardized framework for developing an effective, sustainable environmental and energy management strategy,” says CHOMARAT Environment and Energy Manager Laurent VÉRITÉ.

Minimizing environmental impacts & optimizing energy use
ISO 50001 certification is validation of efficient energy management, with the bonus of lower energy consumption and the tools needed to address a warming climate. ISO 14001 certification is based on standards and requirements, and it constitutes an international benchmark for environmental management systems. “CHOMARAT is committed to a responsible and sustainable process for all of its activities in France. With ISO 14001 certification, the Group is incorporating environmental requirements into its management and production systems,” explains CHOMARAT France CEO Raphaël LAURENT.

Pursuing a long-term strategy
This twofold certification is in keeping with CHOMARAT’s long-term vision. “Our strategy is implemented through new investments and international development. But the Group is also actively involved in sustainable development and a sustainable innovation initiative,” explains Raphaël LAURENT. Measures that have been implemented include reducing the noise level, preventing pollution risks and improving waste management. Fluorescent lighting has been replaced by LEDs; new, more energy-efficient equipment has been installed; and the heating and air-conditioning ductwork has been insulated to reduce fuel-oil consumption.
“It is thanks to the combined efforts of all CHOMARAT’s teams that we were able to obtain these two certifications. For us, this is our first milestone towards a sustainable economy,” concludes Laurent VÉRITÉ.