From the Sector

Global Fashion Summit, a leading international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries to drive tangible action on social and environmental sustainability. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). GFA is a non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 will take place on 27-28 June in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The theme of Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 is ‘Ambition to Action’. Under this premise, the Summit will present content experiences focused on tangible impact.

The theme will underly all elements of the Summit and Main Stage speakers will showcase inspiring thought leadership for accelerated change by exploring a matrix of interconnected topics. The 2023 Copenhagen Edition will build on more than a decade’s worth of Summit guidance and outcomes by dedicating even more focus towards action-oriented workshops and case studies. Through these formats, the forum will demonstrate tangible learnings and concrete recommendations that can help drive implementation.
 
The forum will also host strategic roundtable meetings with the aim to mobilise industry leaders to build alliances with solution providers, policy makers, investors and other industry stakeholders and implement immediate solutions. Such alliances can set in motion progress towards a net positive industry. With upcoming policy expected to influence the fashion industry even further this year, the Summit will shed light on the ongoing pieces of legislation currently under discussion both within the EU and worldwide.

This year’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition is supported by Principal Sponsor, Maersk. A globally renowned leader in logistics that aims to deliver a more connected, agile and sustainable future for global logistics. Maersk will support the Summit's agenda to accelerate industry transformation by highlighting how logistics can help the fashion and lifestyle industry in reaching their sustainability goals.

Additionally, the Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of other leading sustainable solutions. Summit attendees can meet with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to end-of-use solutions. Innovation Forum Matchmaking will enable small and large fashion businesses to advance their sustainability journey, by providing the unique opportunity to be matched with relevant solution providers. 

The The German Federation of Reinforced Plastics (AVK) is looking for the best innovations in the field of fibre-reinforced plastics (FRP) / composites covering the following categories:

• Innovative products/components or applications
• Innovative procedures/processes
• Research and science

One goal of the AVK Innovation Award is to promote new products/components and applications made from fibre-reinforced plastics (FRP) and to promote new processes and methods for the manufacturing of FRP products. A further award is given to universities, colleges and institutes for outstanding work in science and research. In each of the categories special emphasis will be placed on the issue of sustainability.

Another goal is to give prominence to the innovations and also to the companies/institutions behind them, thus publicising their performance throughout the industry. The submissions will be evaluated by a jury of experts from the composites sector. The award ceremony will be held during the JEC Forum DACH event in Salzburg, Austria (24-25 October 2023).

The submission deadline for the application documents is 14^th April 2023.
Further details and assessment criteria can be found online.

Art meets sustainable fashion in the third edition of the project "CirculART", the initiative that sees companies, artists and fashion designers working together with Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto, showing how new balanced forms of production, design and sharing can be explored through a careful choice of materials and of sustainable supply chains. Three key concepts underpin the circularity of sustainable fashion and therefore this project: Reduce - reducing the consumption of raw materials, Reuse - reuse of raw materials, Recycling - regeneration.

The project CirculART is conceived and developed in collaboration between Fashion B.E.S.T. and UNIDEE Residency Programs, and led by the Foundation's team of curators.

Fashion B.E.S.T. - Better Ethical Sustainable Think-Tank, Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto’ sustainable fashion office, was created by artist Michelangelo Pistoletto and Franca Sozzani. Since 2009, B.E.S.T. has been working on the development of sustainability in the textile sector, to lead to a contamination between art, which assumes social responsibility, and the world of fashion, which is looking to define a new ethical and sustainable model.

CirculART proposes a new link between fashion and art, engaging both in a conscious and innovative combination of sustainability, sensitivity, beauty and union. The project links territory and production factories, bringing together actors from the different sectors making up the textile supply chain that work on the basis of a circular economy with companies that have chosen to embrace the ideal of sustainability and develop an innovative business model.

The protagonists of this year’s edition are two international artists and two international fashion designers, selected through an open call launched by Cittadellarte: Augustina Bottoni, Lucia Chain, Huge Sillytoe and Rebecca Sforzani, young talents called upon to create a work with fabrics produced by partner companies, focusing on dialogue and on the enhancement of the textile industry production chain.

In early 2023, the programme will give the four selected artists the opportunity to visit and work actively with the partner companies that have joined the initiative.
These are: Achille Pinto S.p.a, manufacturer of textiles and textile accessories for the main international fashion brands; Albini Group, Europe's largest manufacturer of cotton fabrics for shirts; Erica Industria Tessile, a leading company in the creation of textile prints, original and customised designs; Filatura Astro, eco-sustainable regenerated yarns; G2B S.r.l., a chemical and environmental analysis laboratory working with vertical cultivation from which indigo is obtained; Lampo by Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi S.p.A., leader in the creation and production of zips for fashion; Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, a Biella-based weaver for haute couture; Lenzing, world leader in the production of fabrics made from fibres derived from renewable wood raw material; Milior, a producer of high quality fabrics; Officina +39 – Chemistry plus creativity, a chemical company with thirty years' experience dedicated to research and chemical application in textiles; Tessuti di Sondrio, a factory inspired by the century-old local textile tradition of processing cotton, linen, hemp and wool; Tintoria Emiliana, garment-dyed production and sustainable practices; Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, a manufacturer of 100% Made in Italy fine combed and carded yarns.

Within its TEXTILE SOLUTIONS, the CHT Group has developed solution approaches for manufacturing companies in the textile value chain that have to use a lot of energy for their production. This is intended to compensate high energy costs and make a positive contribution to climate protection.Application specialists work with customers to develop individual savings potentials that are specifically tailored to the production facilities and requirements. Thus, depending on the process, fabric and machine, energy savings of up to 30% can be achieved with the use of innovative CHT textile auxiliaries, dyes/pigments and the corresponding process optimisations. In addition, the numerous concepts and optimally matched products can minimise water consumption or shorten the process time.

Energy-efficient cold bleaching instead of pad-steam bleaching processes in continuous pretreatment and the 4SUCCESS process for energy-efficient and resource-saving pretreatment and dyeing of cotton help to save energy. Likewise, the use of polymer binders, which do not require energy-intensive fixation, saves energy.

Efficient pretreatment with the new polymer technology CPT (Comb Polymer Technology) achieves good cleaning effects even with low liquor ratios and thus less water to heat up. To save costs for energy-consuming heating, there is also the gentle low-temperature fixation in the easy care finishing. The OrganIQ EMS Jeans system enables jeans finishing with a reduced application temperature compared to standard processes.

With TIME BOOST, a process for fast polyester dyeing processes, not only significant energy but also time savings are achieved by omitting pre-washing and by shortening heating and migration times. SHORT CUT also leads to shorter process times when dyeing polyamide.

To avoid cost-intensive intermediate drying, the CHT Group offers the SCREEN-2-SCREEN with PRINTPERFEKT S2S which facilitates printing in a wet-on-wet technology.

In addition to numerous other products, the CHT Group also offers its customers digital tools to optimally support process optimizations. The "BEZAKTIV Soaping Advisor" calculation program within the CHT Textile Dyes app can be used to evaluate and improve dyeing and soaping processes in a simple and target-oriented way.

In occasion of the next edition of Pitti Uomo, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei – the unique fiber with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process ensuring certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach- reveals a very special Bemberg™ fabrics smart range dedicated to premium denimwear.

This has been made possible thanks to the partnership with PureDenim, a leading Italian company whose strategy since 10 years is based on an entire re-design of the production system, inspired by circular economy principles that combines technology and innovative materials in order to offer the highest levels of design, innovation and real responsible values derived from an holistic approach to sustainability.
The “Blue di Cupro” collection is made with seven fabrics made with Bemberg™, either 100% Bemberg™ or in blend with cotton, wool, and it applies the most advanced Pure Denim Technologies. The Blue di cupro fabrics made with Bemberg™ will also be dyed with “Smart Indigo” an indigo dye technology internally produced by PureDenim, through a chemical-free production. The only elements involved are: water, indigo pigments, and electricity. In terms of finishing, fabrics’ looks and performances are enhanced by the “Eco Sonic” ultrasounds finishing technology which brings significant reduction of water used, increased aesthetic features and controlled discoloration. And last but not least every yarn used at PureDenim is protected by NaturalReco® a 100% natural product that completely SUBSTITUTE the use of plastic films that are one of the key causes of microplastic emission for denim application.

“Blue” seems to be the new colour of Bemberg™, in fact, the company in early November 2022 announced, at the Blue Friday initiative by UNESCO's Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC), the achievement of the OK biodegradable MARINE certification, which guarantees the biodegradability of its products even in the marine environment, as certified by TÜV AUSTRIA, meaning a lot in the context of microplastics in water issue solutions. This Bemberg™ certification’s achievement comes on top of other key ones such as the INNOVHUB report that confirms Bemberg™ biodegradability in soil without releasing hazardous substances, the RCS by Textile Exchange, and the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 14001 corporate certifications.

• Scientific researchers from 10 countries, including North America, UK, Japan and Germany
• Bertrand Piccard, Solar Impulse Foundation, as Keynote Speaker
• Speakers from strategic partnerships: L’Oréal, Salomon, and McKinsey

Carbios hosted the first PET Biorecycling Summit from 7 to 8 December 2022 in Paris. The event attracted over 100 international participants from the scientific, academic, and industrial worlds to exchange on the advances in the field of biological recycling, and how to bring these innovations for a circular economy to market.

The two-day conference gathered scientists from various academic institutions to share their latest research on PET enzymatic depolymerization.  Bertrand Piccard, Initiator and Chairman of the Solar Impulse Foundation^[1], joined as the Keynote Speaker for the last session focused on PET circularity, and praised Carbios’ contribution to reducing plastic pollution. The Summit concluded with a visit of Carbios’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand. The demonstration plant was inaugurated in September 2021 and brings Carbios’ technology one step closer to industrialization. Following the demonstration plant’s success, Carbios is on track to build and operate the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant (with a processing capacity of 50.000 tons of PET waste per year) in France (Longlaville) by 2025^[2], and to start licensing its technology throughout the world.

^[1] To address sustainability challenges while enabling economic growth, Bertrand Piccard and the Solar Impulse Foundation have identified 1000+ clean and profitable solutions. More details available on the official website.

^[2] Cf. Press release dated 23 February 2022.

RecyOuest, France, has successfully started up the world's first recycling line for agricultural plastic waste nets at its mill in Argentan. The innovative recycling line featuring a unique dry-cleaning system was delivered, installed and commissioned by the international technology group ANDRITZ in August 2022.

RecyOuest, based in Argentan, France, is a green economy company that handles the recycling contaminated filamentary thermoplastics such as round bale nets and twines. With its recycling process, RecyOuest is part of a circular economy approach.

The ANDRITZ recycling line can process up to 8,000 tons of waste and produce recycling fibers for nonwoven applications and also for pellets made of waste from agricultural single-use plastic nets and twines. These pellets are then returned to the plastics industry by mixing both recycled and virgin raw materials, thus reducing the amount of virgin plastic used.

This line, inspired by the techniques from textile wastes recycling, is equipped with a unique mechanical dry-cleaning system that allows resource savings by avoiding the use of water and chemicals. This state-of-the-art ANDRITZ equipment allows RecyOuest to produce recycling fibers for nonwoven applications and also pellets for ever new eco-designed nets and twines for the agricultural sector, with the lowest possible environmental impact.

• Lectra extends its software offer to material traceability

Lectra announces the signature of an agreement to acquire 51% of the capital and voting rights of the Dutch company TextileGenesis. As a major player in the fashion, automotive, and furniture markets, Lectra contributes with boldness and passion to the Industry 4.0 revolution by providing software, equipment, data, and services to brands, manufacturers, and retailers.

Founded in 2018, TextileGenesis provides a Software as a Service (SaaS) platform that enables fashion brands and sustainable textile manufacturers to ensure a reliable, secure and fully digital mapping of their textiles, from the fiber to the consumer, and thereby guarantee their authenticity and origins. This solution ensures the traceability of TextileGenesis’ customers' entire sustainable textile supply chain in order to meet the demands for transparency, driven by changes in legislation in a growing number of countries and by growing consumer awareness, thereby encouraging sustainable development.  

Its innovative traceability mechanism, which addresses both ends of the textile value chain, as well as its network of partners for material certification, and its technology platform guarantee the exchange and tracking of reliable and secure data throughout a material's life cycle.

Several of the world's most prestigious fashion brands as well as leading sustainable fiber producers are already convinced of the value of TextileGenesis' innovative offer, which enables the connection of multiple actors of the sustainable fashion ecosystem on this platform.

At the beginning of January, Lectra will acquire 51% of TextileGenesis for 15.2 million euros. The acquisition of the remaining share capital and voting rights is expected to take place in two stages, in 2026 and 2028, for an amount that will be calculated based on a multiple of the 2025 and 2027 recurring revenues.

Automotive carpets are typically multi-layered systems that can be challenging to recycle. By introducing a carpet made of 100% polyester, Autoneum now opens up new opportunities for vehicle manufacturers to meet their sustainability targets. The innovative carpet systems are fully recyclable, thus paving the way for an improved and more sustainable end-of-life recycling of electric vehicles. In addition, the high content of recycled PET as well as the zero waste and less energy-intensive production process further improve the carbon footprint of Autoneum’s new monomaterial needlepunch and tufted carpets.

Autoneum’s fully recyclable carpet systems ensure a closed material loop and are thus proof of the Company’s commitment to improving the sustainability performance of its products and manufacturing processes. The 100% polyester carpets build on the existing lightweight and particularly sustainable Autoneum Pure technologies: the carpet surface, for example, is made of Di-Light or Relive-1, while Hybrid-Acoustics PET is used for the decoupler. Thanks to Autoneum’s innovative alternative backcoating (ABC) process, which uses a thermoplastic adhesive instead of latex, the production of the new monomaterial needlepunch and tufted carpets also requires significantly less energy and no water at all.

Autoneum’s sustainable tufted carpet system made of 100% polyester is already in development for an electric model of a German vehicle manufacturer that will be available in Europe and Asia.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) of Leeds, England has installed a FET-200LAB wet spinning system at the University of Manchester which will play a major part in advanced materials research to support sustainable growth and development.

This research programme will be conducted by The Henry Royce Institute, which operates as a hub model at The University of Manchester with spokes at other leading research universities in the UK.

The Henry Royce Institute identifies challenges and stimulates innovation in advanced UK materials research, delivering positive economic and societal impact. In particular, this materials research initiative is focused on supporting and promoting all forms of sustainable growth and development.
These challenges range from biomedical devices through to plastics sustainability and energy-efficient devices; hence supporting key national targets such as the UK’s zero-carbon 2050 target.

FET-200 Series wet spinning systems complement FET’s renowned range of melt spinning equipment. The FET-200LAB is a laboratory scale system, which is especially suitable for the early stages of formulation and process development. It is used for processing new functional textile materials in a variety of solvent and polymer combinations.

In particular, the FET-200LAB will be utilised in trials for a family of fibres made from wood pulp, a sustainable resource rather than the usual fossil fuels. Bio-based polymers are produced from biomass feedstocks such as cellulose and are commonly used in the manufacture of high end apparel. The key to cellulose and other materials like lyocell and viscose is that they can be recycled, treated and fed back into the wet spinning system for repeat manufacture.

Established in 1998, FET is a leading supplier of laboratory and pilot melt spinning systems with installations in over 35 countries and has now successfully processed more than 35 different polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats.