From the Sector

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympic Games are just around the corner and a global sports frenzy is underway. However, intense summer workouts often lead to sportswear absorbing excessive sweat, becoming clingy and cumbersome, causing discomfort and potentially impacting performance. A research team from the School of Fashion and Textiles at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) has developed the iActive™ sportswear range which features a root-like liquid transport system and a skin-like active perspiration dissipater and utilises nature-inspired, anti-heat textile fabrics to expedite sweat removal, effectively reducing the weight and stickiness of activewear caused by sweat accumulation during exercise.

The human body has millions of sweat glands that are vital for regulating body temperature by dissipating sweat for evaporation to cool the skin’s surface. With unabating greenhouse gas emissions, the number of very hot days annually is expected to increase significantly. This will lead to elevated energy consumption and increased sweating during physical activity and outdoor labour. Even when wearing highly breathable clothes with good sweat-wicking properties, individuals may still experience discomfort due to excessive sweat accumulation.

A research team led by Dr SHOU Dahua, Limin Endowed Young Scholar in Advanced Textiles Technologies and Associate Professor of the School of Fashion and Textiles at PolyU, has invented the iActive™, intelligent, electrically activated sportswear with a nature-inspired active perspiration function.

Its nature-inspired technologies, including low-voltage-driven artificial “sweat glands” created by skin-like anti-heat textile fabrics and a root-like branching liquid transport system that aligns with the body’s sweat map, can actively and programmably remove sweat to a perspiration dissipater at the lower region of the sportswear. The all-textile sweat dissipater is compact and operates at a safe output voltage of approximately 5-9V, and its battery is easy to detach from the clothing, making it convenient for users to repeatedly wash the clothing by hand or in a washing machine to maintain hygiene. When the human body’s sweat rate is low, iActive™ can still be used independently without the battery.

Based on the optimised wettability pattern and gradient, the research team utilises a skin-like textile fabric to transport sweat one-way quickly and dissipate it from the inside to the outside. This feature reduces the stickiness and weight of clothing, improves breathability and ensures the garments remain dry and comfortable to wear. Experimental findings indicate that iActive™ creates a breathable and dry skin microclimate by dissipating sweat at a rate that is three times faster than the maximum human sweating rate. This innovation can also prevent discomfort from coldness and moisture after a workout. In comparison to traditional fabrics, the textile materials in iActive™ are 60% lighter and 50% less clingy when soaked, providing the wearer with all-round comfort and enabling sports enthusiasts and athletes to perform at their best.

Furthermore, a mobile app further aids personalised sweat management by wirelessly adjusting the sweat level of iActive™. This innovation is versatile and can be seamlessly integrated into a variety of textile materials to facilitate sustainable mass production. Beyond sportswear, iActive™ is also well-suited to protective clothing and workwear for individuals engaged in prolonged, high-intensity physical labour and outdoor occupations, including healthcare professionals, construction workers, firefighters, law enforcement officers and others, thereby significantly enhancing their work performance.

Dr Shou Dahua stated, “The extreme weather and high temperatures resulting from global warming have elevated the importance of heatstroke prevention and cooling measures on a global scale. Drawing on the vivid phenomena of thermal insulation and directed liquid flow in nature, we aim to foster innovation and sustainable advancement in garment manufacturing by inventing intelligent clothing and materials to address global challenges. We seek to harness the power of technology to infuse fresh perspectives into the traditional clothing industry, thereby enhancing its competitiveness.”

His research team has also developed a premium fabric named Omni-Cool-Dry™, drawing inspiration from volcano dwelling beetles. This fabric not only provides ultra-fast sweat dissipation and ensures all-day comfort with its dry and breathable features under dynamic thermal conditions, but also reflects solar radiation and emits body heat into the cold universe, enabling passive cooling. The team is working hard to leverage the benefits of both inventions to further enhance the sweat-dissipating and cooling capability of iActive™ sportswear.

Dr Shou Dahua, a core member of the PolyU Research Institute for Intelligent Wearable Systems and the Research Centre of Textiles for Future Fashion, has recently been bestowed with the 2023 Distinguished Achievement Award by The Fiber Society for his outstanding contributions to the fields of personal thermal and moisture management, intelligent wearables and soft robotics. The accolade is presented annually to an individual researcher worldwide. He has also received international innovation awards, including consecutive TechConnect Global Innovation Awards in 2021 and 2022. Moreover, his research papers have been published in various internationally renowned academic journals including Science Advances, PNAS, Advanced Functional Materials, and Advanced Energy Materials. Dr Shou will be chairing The Fiber Society Spring 2025 Conference at PolyU.

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.

TrusTrace, a global SaaS company with a market-leading platform for supply chain traceability and compliance in fashion and retail, announced the launch of its third playbook entitled, “Unlocking DPP: The Why, What and How of Digital Product Passports.”

Unveiled at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, the playbook offers a guide for fashion industry professionals grappling with the data collection and implementation of the widely anticipated Digital Product Passport, which will come into force in the European Union between 2026-2030. The book busts some common myths and misconceptions about the DPP, and offers a data protocol for brands to follow to start collecting DPP data and setting up their digital systems for DPP implementation.

The guide, which has been authored by journalist Brooke Roberts-Islam, opens with ‘The Why’ of the DPP, breaking down the complex set of incoming EU legislation, and explaining why DPP is an essential tool for achieving the EU’s legally-binding commitment to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. The guide highlights the significant data gaps and how the DPP will address these by collecting and sharing circularity data.

‘The What’ section explains the three core components of the DPP: product data, unique identifiers and the required interoperable IT system (for decentralized data sharing). This section also offers a breakdown of who and what is in scope, along with the required data systems. ‘The When’ offers all brands an essential overview of the DPP timeline and requirements for textile products under the ESPR.

‘The How’ provides brands with the essential steps to successfully collect data and implement a DPP scheme. The insights in this chapter are derived from the Trace4Value project, a live DPP pilot led by TrusTrace to test an end-to-end DPP data and system infrastructure for textile products entering the EU market. The pilot cohort embedded DPP carriers with live data into selected Kappahl and Marimekko products, which launched on the market in early 2024.

The appetite for responsible sourcing shows no sign of slowing with Europe's fastest-growing platform, Source Fashion expanding again for its next edition with a 50% increase in exhibitors to over 320 from around the world.

The gateway to the UK fashion industry, Source Fashion takes place on 18th - 20th February at Kensington Olympia London putting international manufacturers and suppliers at the fingertips of UK brands.

Source Fashion offers a unique experience for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The next show unites manufacturers from the UK, India, Portugal, Turkey Madagascar, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Peru, Philippines, Ethiopia and many more. The show will also see the debut of manufacturers from Mongolia, Lithuania, and Tunisia.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion says; "Visitors will love the quality, diversity and variety of producers, makers and manufacturers from around the world with the best of the best in terms of high-quality knitted apparel, luxury wool knits, leather, denim, and more across our sectors including Fabrics, Accessories, Sportswear, Garment Manufacturers, Packaging, Yarns, Trims and Fixtures, plus Design & Technology."

Connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to buyers who want the security in knowing every conversation is one that could lead to a new range creation, Source Fashion is the gateway to retail for manufacturers and suppliers from across the world. From raw materials, fabrics, trims, and packaging, all the way through to contract manufacturers offering in house design services, the show brings the inspiration and tools together in one exciting destination to bring new ranges to life.

The July 2023 show welcomed some of retail's biggest names. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists, and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, Mountain Warehouse, Fila, Selfridges, H&M, Lipsy, Lyle & Scott, Joules, FILA, Perry Ellis, JoJo Mamman Bebe, Monsoon, Fatface, Lulu Guinness, Next, Sainsburys, Vivienne Westwood, Stitch Fix, ASOS, Bella Freud, Burberry, Fat Face, Hackett, Harrods, NBrown, Monsoon and many more came to explore and source from Source Fashion's diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

With a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends, innovations, and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals, as well the inspirational Source Catwalk shows, Source Fashion is the must-attend event for the fashion community.

On 5th September 2023, the Amsterdam: Best of Bangladesh Europe’ started in the venue of Wastergas in Amsterdam. The 2-day nation branding event was organized by Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE), with support from the Embassy of Bangladesh, Ministry of Commerce, Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) of Bangladesh and in association with PDS.

Tipu Munshi, MP, Commerce Minister, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh; Michiel Sweers, Vice Minister of Foreign Economic Relations, Kingdom of the Netherlands; Shahriar Alam, MP, State Minister for Foreign Affairs, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh; Md Siddiqur Rahman,  Former president of BGMEA; M Riaz Hamidullah, Ambassador of Bangladesh to the Netherlands; Leslie Johnston, Chief Executive Officer, Laudes Foundation; Pallak Seth, Founder & Vice Chairman, PDS Limited; and Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange; attended the inaugural ceremony of the ‘Best of Bangladesh’.

Three MoU were signed in the inaugural for the development of the industries of Bangladesh.
The 1st MoU was signed between Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Eindhoven International Project Office (EIPO). The 2nd MoU was signed between Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Apparel Impact Institution. The 3rd MoU was signed between Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Oxfam.
More than 35 companies from various fields, including apparel, textiles, agriculture, handicrafts, and other sectors, participated in the initiative.

The event held six interactive panel sessions on the topics "Bangladesh – Perspectives from an Emerging Economy", "Sustainable Sourcing Realities: Challenges, Achievements & Next Steps”, “Empowering the Future: Advancing Safety & Well-being for Garments Workforce in Bangladesh", "Bangladesh Agro-Food: A Next Opportunity for Collaboration", "Impact Investing - The Next Frontier", and “Sustainable Synergy: Circular Economy, Climate Action & Bangladesh’s Future".

A Bangladesh Innovation Runway was presented by Pacific Jeans at the event. The Bangladesh Innovation Runway showcased the ability of the country in producing high end, sustainable and innovative apparel products.

Bangladesh will stage the world’s first climate conference for the fashion industry this autumn, on 12 October. The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum will convene policy makers, garment manufacturers, fashion retailers and other industry stakeholders to look at solutions for decarbonising global textile supply chains.

The event will focus on technological and financial challenges around reducing emissions. Most of the world’s leading fashion brands have now set ambitious targets for reducing supply chain emissions. These targets relate to 2030 by which time many brands aim to reduce emissions by 50 per cent, and 2050 where most fashion brands aim to be carbon neutral.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will examine causes of climate crisis, its urgency, impacts we have already seen, and what we can expect under both businesses as usual and rapid decarbonisation scenarios.

Also presenting at the event will be the Government of Bangladesh, which will address Bangladesh’s actions to mitigate the impacts of the climate crisis. Bangladesh is particularly vulnerable to climate change and is ranked the seventh extreme disaster risk-prone country in the world according to a report from the Global Climate Risk Index 2021. Tropical cyclones, tornadoes, floods, coastal and riverbank erosion, droughts and landslides are the major climate-induced hazards in Bangladesh.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will also look at approaches towards decarbonization, including NetZero goals and timelines. Speakers will discuss globally recognised pathways for electricity/transportation/industry decarbonisation.

Renewable energy will also be under discussion. If fashion brands are to hit climate targets, it is imperative that supply chains switch to renewable energy and away from gas and fossil fuels. The event will look at challenges around the de-carbonisation of the electricity grid in Bangladesh, as well as the rate of transition toward renewable resources by garment factories, including solar power.

A key element of the event will be evaluation of practical solutions for Bangladesh’s RMG industry. It will profile specific solutions such as energy efficiency, machine upgrades, the electrification of thermal loads, direct power purchase agreements and biomass fed thermal systems. It will also discuss the challenges faced in the industry including business climate (and cycles), pricing, financing challenges, target setting and execution, policy opportunities, knowledge gaps and availability/scaling of solutions.

Financial challenges around decarbonisation of supply chains are significant, and it is far from clear who will pay for the technological upgrades required. While some investment support systems exist – such as lower interest financing – these are not always available, accessible or affordable for the majority of the RMG companies.

The event will explore financial options, changes to business/pricing models, opportunities for de-risking/underwriting investments, direct investment and other tools that need to emerge to address financial challenges and plug the funding gap. The event will also explore opportunities to decouple climate action from business cycles so that the 2030 targets can be met.

Die Hochschule Niederrhein (HSNR) verstärkt ihr internationales Engagement. Dazu plant sie die Einführung eines Double Degree-Bachelorstudiengang zum Thema Smart Textiles/Textile Electronics ab 2025/2026. Neben der University of Borås in Schweden, die das Studienangebot ebenfalls einführen will, möchten die Hasselt-University in Belgien und das industrienahe Politeknik STTT Bandung in Indonesien einzelne Module in ihrem Lehrplan übernehmen.

An den Inhalten arbeiten die Projektpartner im Rahmen des Projektes „Edu4SmartTex“, das mit knapp einer Million Euro vom Deutschen Akademischen Austauschdienst (DAAD) gefördert wird.

Tina Martina, Direktorin der Politeknik, Dr. Ida Nuramdhani und ihr Kollege Dr. Mohamad Widodo sind aktuell in Krefeld und Mönchengladbach, um sich über die Umsetzung der Lehre an der HSNR zu informieren und in einem Workshop das gemeinsame Lehrmodul „Sustainability and Circular Economy“ (Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft von Smart Textiles) zu erarbeiten. Hier werden Lehr-Inhalte und Ziele diskutiert. Das Modul soll eines von insgesamt sieben des geplanten Studiengangs sein.

Involviert sind neben dem Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik auch die Fachbereiche Elektrotechnik und Informatik, Wirtschaftswissenschaften, Sozialwesen sowie Design, um Synergieeffekte zu nutzen und Kompetenzen zu bündeln.

„Austausche an den Partnerhochschulen sind ein wichtiger Punkt für uns. Zudem werden viele Lehrveranstaltungen digital ablaufen, sodass sich die Studierenden flexibel von überall zuschalten können“, so der wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiter Joel Schüßler, der das von Professorin Anne Schwarz-Pfeiffer (Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik) und Professorin Ekaterina Nannen (Elektrotechnik und Informatik) initiierte Projekt begleitet.

Weitere geplante Module beschäftigen sich unter anderem mit Programmierung und App-Entwicklung, Unternehmensgründung sowie Forschung und Industrie. In diesem Fall soll auch mit einem Praxispartner zusammengearbeitet werden.

The international fashion sourcing platform Source Fashion, taking place from 12th – 14th February at Olympia London, has announced a compelling line-up of country pavilions and over 150 audited, quality manufacturers from around the world including Peru, India, China, Pakistan, Italy, Spain, Greece, North Macedonia,  the UAE, Madagascar, Jordan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, the UK and many more who will join the inaugural show, which runs parallel to Pure London.

Bringing a textile pavilion to the UK for the first time, the Peru Pavilion will showcase six manufacturers specialising in high-quality alpaca wool from the raw material right through to garment production, as well as cotton and other natural mixtures.

The main Indian Pavilion at this year’s Source Fashion, in collaboration with the Wool and Woollens Export Promotion Council, will showcase 20 established garment and textile exporters specialising in wool, woollen and acrylic fibres. The exhibitors will be showing full garments including men’s, women’s and kidswear as well as a selection of fabrics and raw materials. These exhibitors are regular export partners to the UK retail industry and already work with some big retailers in white label production.

The China Pavilion will present a selection of high-quality Chinese manufacturers ranging from full garment manufacturing through to raw materials, fabrics, cashmere and components.

Other producers and manufacturers attending Source Fashion from across Europe and the UK include:

• Mivania - an Italian knitwear manufacturer producing garments in 100% cashmere and cashmere blends.
• SATCoL (Salvation Army Trading Company) - a charity-owned textiles collector in the UK, actively working with retailers to reduce their carbon footprints.
• Kusilas - a Spanish company monitoring all the stages of the production process.
• Prime Casual - based in Leicester, UK, they specialise in the design and manufacture of ladies clothing from fast fashion, wholesale to bespoke tailoring.
• Athos Pallas - a fashion and textile agency located in Thessaloniki, Greece.

Hologenix®, creators of CELLIANT®, is pleased to announce CELLIANT® with REPREVE® – introduced with global textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE® – has been awarded a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/25.

Twice a year, ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Both companies are excited that CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, whereby CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology is embedded into REPREVE, a brand of recycled fiber, has achieved the honor. CELLIANT® with REPREVE® is a performance fiber made from recycled materials that have been enhanced with IR technology to provide wellness benefits to the consumer.

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids significantly in muscle recovery, increases endurance, and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.

REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

This award marks the third year in a row that Hologenix has had its CELLIANT technology recognized in the Fall/Winter Textrends Awards. CELLIANT in pure white was a Top Ten Winner in last year’s awards. The prior year, CELLIANT Viscose was a Selection Winner as well.

• ESD protection in harsh environments:
• Polymer-coated chemical-resistant fabrics and fireproof special textiles with expanded electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety function have been developed.
• Graphene nanotubes used as an electrostatic dissipative material make it possible to add ESD protection without compromising resistance to aggressive environments.
• Efficient working loadings starting from 0.06% are sufficient for stable anti-static properties fully compliant with safety standards and position graphene nanotubes far ahead of other conductive materials.

Protective clothing, upholstery, and industrial fabrics that experience harsh conditions require advanced performance. Depending on the final application, specialty textiles can be augmented with flame retardancy, durability, chemical protection, and other properties. Additionally, ESD protection is obligatory in the chemical, rescue, mining, oil & gas, automotive manufacturing, and many other industries that are subject to safety regulations.
 
In applications where multifunctionality of textile is required, graphene nanotubes overcome the limitations of other conductive materials such as unstable anti-static properties; degradation of strength, or chemical or fire resistance; complicated manufacturing processes; dusty production; carbon contamination on the material’s surface; or limited color options. Recent developments show that graphene nanotubes provide ESD protection to textiles in full compliance with safety standards and without degrading the textile’s resistance to harsh environments, greatly enhancing the value of textiles.
 
One such example is textiles coated with fluoroelastomer (a polymer that is highly resistant to chemicals) augmented with graphene nanotubes from OCSiAl. Nanotubes provide the material with surface resistivity of 10^6–10^8 Ω/sq compliant with EN, ISO, and ATEX standards for personal protective equipment. This new technology opens the door for the fabric to be used in high-level protective suits, combining exceptional protection from chemicals with electrostatic discharge protection.
 
Another example is how graphene nanotube technology is being acknowledged as a replacement for metal yarns in fireproof and anti-static textiles, protecting against sparks, splashes of molten metal, high temperatures, and the risk of sudden electrostatic discharge. While metal yarns require a specific knitting process and storage conditions, incorporating nanotubes in a fabric does not require any changes in the manufacturing process as the water-based dispersion is introduced into the fabric at the fluoro-organic treatment stage. The fabric with OCSiAl’s graphene nanotubes has been proven to maintain the pre-set level of ESD protection (surface resistance of 10^7 Ω) after numerous washes.
 
Permanent and stable electrical conductivity, facilitated by graphene nanotubes, is not only a matter of safety but brings additional value in augmenting dust-repellent properties and touchscreen compatibility for comfort and time savings. At the same time, the ultralow nanotube concentrations result in maintained manufacturing processes and mechanical properties, and improve product aesthetics by making it possible to use a wide range of colors. Altogether, these benefits allow textile manufacturers to create next-generation special textiles with expanded functionality.