From the Sector

HANRO chooses Iluna lace containing the sustainable premium stretch fiber ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei for its Zula lingerie set

HANRO, the Swiss brand that produces high quality daywear, nightwear and loungewear for both men and women and world’s leading premium brand in its segment, chooses Iluna Group for its advanced design and sustainability, innovation, aesthetics and quality made of “ethical” laces and an attentive look at fashion.

Iluna uses responsible premium ingredients such as GRS certified Q-NOVA®, more than half of which are made from pre-consumer waste and GRS certified ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn produced by more than 58% from transformed pre-consumer content. The yarn belongs to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family produced by Asahi Kasei and it’s the world’s first responsibly made premium fiber range, which includes smart ROICA™ yarns and their exceptional certifications.

Seductive and luxurious lingerie defines the SS 20 Zula collection in which we find Iluna lace. This lingerie set is smooth and soft satin viscose made, with an elegant Jacquardtronic lace detail along the cup, straps and band of the bra. It is paired to the matching briefs in the collection with generous elegant Jacquardtronic lace on the front and the backside. The particular lace used is a delicate and modern reinterpretation of the Duchesse lace, a particular type of Brussels lace from the mid-19th century. The set is available in light viola, purple night and marzipan range of colours.

• Schleswig-Holstein Minister President visits Neumünster, Germany

Since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, the worldwide demand for protective masks and apparel has resulted in a record number of new orders in the high double-digit millions of euros at the Oerlikon Nonwoven business unit of the Swiss Oerlikon Group. From the manufacturing site in Neumünster, Germany, the high-tech meltblown systems – with their patented ecuTE+ nonwovens electro-charging technology – are meanwhile be exported all over the world. For the very first time, a contract has now been signed with a business in Australia. Today, Schleswig-Holstein’s Minister President Daniel Günther was won over on site by the technology of a ‘global player’. Rainer Straub, Head of Oerlikon Nonwoven, was thrilled, stating: “The machines and systems for manufacturing manmade fiber and nonwovens solutions from Neumünster enjoy an outstanding reputation throughout the world. It is especially in this crisis that the technology from Schleswig-Holstein has proven itself to be absolutely world-class.”

In addition to a tour of the meltblown system and its assembly and production facilities, the visit by Minister President Daniel Günther had one purpose above all: the dialog between politicians and business. Rainer Straub, Head of Oerlikon Nonwoven, and Matthias Pilz, Head of Oerlikon Neumag, jointly expressed their thanks for the support that Oerlikon has repeatedly had the fortune to experience over the past months and years in Schleswig-Holstein and looked to the future full of hope. “As a result of our additional investment at the site here in Neumünster – be this in our new technology center that will be completed by the end of this year or in our new logistics center that is already operating – we, as one of the region’s largest employers, are continuing to move forward, supported by a State Government that is also focusing on both promoting industry and business and on advancing an efficient training and educational system, as innovation is only possible with outstanding engineers”, stated Matthias Pilz. And Rainer Straub directed his appeal specifically at the Minister President: “Treat education and training as a priority. Ultimately, they will secure the future of Schleswig-Holstein as a center of excellence and manufacturing!”

Five-million-euro digitalization program

Daniel Günther, the incumbent Minister President of Schleswig-Holstein since 2017, immediately responded, making reference to one of the Federal State’s current training initiatives: “The State Government is supporting higher education institutions and students in the present coronavirus crisis. With a five-million-euro digitalization program, we are investing on the long-term digitalization of our higher education institutions. With this, we are overall creating a future for young people, particularly also for those who could very well go on to invent the next generation of manmade fiber systems.” And the Minister President was just as impressed by the willingness and readiness with which Oerlikon has been providing high-level support since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic to master the present challenges as he was with the company’s meltblown technology itself. Rainer Straub explained: “When, at the beginning of the pandemic in February, demand for protective face masks increased rapidly, we at Oerlikon Nonwoven responded immediately. We ramped up all the available production capacities here in Neumünster in order to quickly manufacture nonwovens for producing face masks using our laboratory systems. As a result, we have been able to make a small, regional contribution to covering demand. In parallel, we have pulled out all the stops in order to systematically further expand our skills as machine and system builders so as to cater to the initially expected, and now also continuing, global demand for meltblown systems as quickly as possible.”

Leading meltblown technology

The Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown technology – with which nonwovens for protective masks can also be manufactured, among other things – is recognized by the market as being the technically most efficient method for producing highly-separating filter media made from plastic fibers. The capacities for respiratory masks available in Europe to date are predominantly manufactured on Oerlikon Nonwoven systems. “Ever more manufacturers in the most diverse countries are hoping to become independent of imports. Therefore, what we are experiencing in Germany is also happening in both industrialized and emerging countries throughout the world”, commented Rainer Straub. In addition to China, Turkey, the United Kingdom, South Korea, Austria and numerous countries in both North and South America, Australia and not least Germany will for the first time also be among the countries to which Oerlikon Nonwoven will be delivering machines and equipment before the end of 2021.

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

• Esprit selects EarthColors® by Archroma for its newest ‘I AM SUSTAINABLE’ capsule collection

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a new collaboration with Esprit, the global fashion clothing brand, who selected the EarthColors® range for its ‘I AM SUSTAINABLE’ capsule collection.

Esprit creates laid-back, high-quality essentials that reflect its core values of sustainability, equality and freedom of choice. The brand developed its first eco-conscious collection made of 100% organic cotton, back in the early 90’s.

Archroma’s EarthColors® range came to public attention for being the Gold Winner of the OutDoor Industry Award 2017, Sustainable Innovations category.

The range is regularly featured by brands such as Kathmandu, G-Star and Ternua, who are willing to explore truly innovative and authentic color options for more eco-conscious casual wear collections.
Archroma’s EarthColors® is a line of patented plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources.

Archroma developed EarthColors® using non-edible waste products, from agriculture and herbal industries, to replace petroleum derived raw materials; which are the conventional raw materials used to synthesize dyes currently. This gives brands an alternative when looking for more natural ways of dyeing garments.
The collection is available online: www.esprit.eu/earthcolors.

Clean, minimal and responsible, the collection perfectly embodies the combination of high-end looks with a sustainable vision, delivering effortless and stylish garments available in store from January 2020.

It claims to be love at first touch, and rightly so, as it celebrates women’s natural shape enhancing it with haikure’s delicate designs and ISKO™ premium denim. amae – the Italian brand’s latest collection and the latest chapter in the longstanding partnership between haikure and ISKO – is inspired by the idea of “taking care”.

Aiming at promoting the value of Responsible Innovation™, the collection delivers high-end contemporary looks resulting from the shared commitment to provide remarkable innovation while fostering a mindful approach in the fashion and denim industries.

ISKO, pioneer of responsibility and the first denim mill in the world awarded both the prestigious EU Ecolabel and Nordic Swan Ecolabel, supported the project providing amae with responsible ingredients to shape its neat looks. Clean and minimal, the garments feature ISKO Pj Soft™ which, like a gentle embrace, grants the skin a silky touch and a soft feel. Responsibly produced according to ISKO’s holistic vision based on creativity, competence and citizenship, this light and soft fabric molds and moves with the wearer, providing an all-round flattering silhouette and comfortable fit that never feel restrictive.

As part of ISKO’s 25,000+ products, this textile concept also has a certified Environmental Product Declaration (EPD®s) for its Life Cycle Assessment (LCAs), ensuring a full transparency about its environmental impact by providing the water usage and carbon footprint of 1 square meter of fabric. As signatory member of ZDHC Foundation, ISKO also avoids harmful substances and hazardous chemicals in its entire production chain, resulting in safer denim that are good for both people and the planet.

Presenting three different washes – regular and stone wash, as well as dyed –, this fashionable and responsible collection will be available in Italy, Spain and Germany starting from January 2020.

Empowering sportwear and athleisurewear with a sustainable imprint

Bemberg™ products including its now-iconic cupro fiber are made from a cotton linter pre consumer material, a natural derived source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete forestry resources.

In Munich, the company is pleased to announce its ultimate collaborations with　Sidonios Malhas, SA. They have created Jacquard jersey with a very interesting look and graceful touch for the athleisure solutions.

Matias & Araujo which has developed, using ZUE’s Bemberg™/Polyamide intermingle yarn, a unique beautiful touch and physical property that suit the athleisure markets; and leading manufacturer of smart jersey TINTEX Textiles created a delicate and luxurious 100% Bemberg™ interlock with silky touch guaranteed by Plummy Technology®, GOTS certified light, fluid and soft Jersey that combine Bemberg™ with organic cotton enriched by the Naturally Clean® technology.

Bemberg™ also presents unique fabrics made in Japan with a special technology of combined yarn through texturizing process and blended yarn.

Bemberg™ by leading materials manufacturer Asahi Kasei is the sole maker of one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural fibers with a unique touch and feel as well as unique performances such as moisture control and is antistatic.

Atop the exquisite and precious touch, Bemberg™ fabrics are imbued with circular economy - from its source, manufacture and end-of-life. It is all supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, confirming a new quality profile and standard with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark. Bemberg™ also has a new Compostability Certification.

The must-have fabrics platform for activewear and sportswear apparel, developed by ISKO, will be featuring in the Munich arena showcasing its Responsible Innovation™ approach resulting once more in groundbreaking performance properties.

ISKO returns once again to ISPO, Hall C1 – Booth 401, to present its pioneering innovation in the world of sportswear and activewear. The leading denim ingredient brand will be presenting the latest edition of ARQUAS™, the much-loved fabrics platform set to bring about an even more responsible era.

Featuring 35 fabrics, most of which are made with certified recycled materials, ARQUAS™ 6.0 combines high-performance properties with the mill’s Responsible Innovation™ approach – a holistic vision based on creativity, competence and citizenship that constantly defines new standards.

Although many of the textile concepts included in the collection may have the look and hand feel of knitted fabrics, they are all woven, thus ensuring superior durability and greater recovery. Among the many qualities that come with ARQUAS™ 6.0, moisture management, UV and wind protection, heat retention, water and stain repellency stand out. Nylon, which is used for the first time in this edition, allows for super light woven and cozy outdoor fabrics, reversible and packable styles, as well as patented fabrics, such as 4 waystretch ISKO Blue Skin™ for a 360° elasticity. Finally, the collection offers super compact fabrics that are made suitable also for fully bonded garments with body shaping and high recovery properties.

To provide trailblazing inspiration to its customers, ISKO’s world-class design team have created both a men’s and women’s garment collection based on three lifestyles – active, outdoor and club sports.

ACTIVE: Ideal for a wide range of sports from yoga to fitness to running. Whether participating in highor low-impact activities, these fabrics perfectly fulfill the technical requirements of athleisure and performance-wear apparel.

OUTDOOR:
Fabrics that stand for superior comfort, durability, water repellency and breathability, protecting the wearer from the elements of nature in any kind of setting.

CLUB SPORTS:
From the perfect golf swing to a wild horse ride, essential features such as maximum flexibility, fit and performance make these the ultimate textile concepts for the sportswear market.

#Takelifebythehorns

Overcoming challenges. Thinking outside the box. Positive thinking. A vision of personal creativity. The advertising campaign for the Spring-Summer 2020 season is a manifesto for expressing the PINKO Woman. Determined, empowered, confident, making her own decisions. Always ready to take life by the horns.

A fiery sunset. A wilderness of mesmerising colours is the backdrop to Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott’s shots, which portray a femininity that is glamorous, gritty, rock, and never predictable. This visual symphony was shaped with a creative team that united stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini with the new star, Lily Aldridge – model, mother and businesswoman – who embodies the beauty of the moment. “We chose Lily because she is the epitome of the PINKO woman”, explained Caterina Negra, image director of PINKO. “She is elegant, sophisticated, with a modern approach. She fills many roles without having had to sacrifice anything. She makes an impression living a life filled with different experiences, as demanded by the modern world”.

Fringes  and  a  masculine  jacket.  Bright  sequins  and  dark  leather.  Rodeo-style  boots,  belt  and  hat  are  teamed  with  sensual denim. This is Lily’s look, as she mounts a unique mechanical bull. It was made specially for the campaign, inspired by the shape and detailing of the Love Bag Mix Studs. An ultra-stylish clash of black and metal accompanies the Love Bag Puff, a new shape in soft quilted nappa leather with chevron motif and appliqué suede fringe. The  fastening  is  the  iconic  metal  buckle  with  Love  Birds.  Not  forgetting  micro-chains  and  studs  for  the  Mini  Love  Metal Fringes or rhinestone fringing for the Go-round version.

The looks are a spontaneous expression of femininity, where personality is key, and movement adds a new dimension to the images. It’s the PINKO message. To be in a safe place where you can be creative without being judged and where you are free to choose. #createyourownlife

• Elleti Group takes center stage at Denim PV to present a special project realized in partnership with MYR, and to share a selection of iconic garments belonging to M.O.D.E, the company’s Museum of Denim.
• Collaboration will be the main theme of the two-day event, involving not only the leading company’s expertise in garment-making but also its tradition, starring M.O.D.E in its firstever collaboration with a trade show and in Alessio Berto’s  RE-TRACE workshops series.

London – When it comes to long-established traditions in the denim industry, Elleti Group stands out as one of the main key players: strong in the business since the 80’s, the company is highlyspecialized in laundry and garment-making services while covering the entire denim production cycle in its eleven production hub.

Its heritage and approach define a valuable and renowned legacy that is now taking stage at Denim PV on December 3rd and 4th. For the occasion, Elleti Group joined forces and knowledge with MYR, start-up program conceived to digitalize the creative process and connect users, suppliers and final consumers through a digital platform. Both companies will be in the Garments and Finishings area - booth C3,  howcasing an exclusive project to highlight their creativity and competences.

Starting from a selection of bold designs, entirely envisioned and developed with MYR software, Elleti Group worked to recreate their look and fit on six garments, manufacturing each piece according to its signature innovative and responsible approach. Featuring forefront machinery and cutting-edge processing solutions, this relies on a continuous research effort focused on granting high-quality products while increasingly reducing their knock-on effect on both workers and the environment.

The result turned out to be very impactful and inspiring, with denim solutions which proved the mastery of the leading Italian company in the art of washing, cutting and stitching the iconic blue fabric, as well as the great support that MYR software provided in the development of the collections.

M.O.D.E. x Denim PV: an exclusive exhibition to explore the history of denim

Opened on June 19th, M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti Group – is a precious resource located within the company’s Headquarters in San Bonifacio (Italy). Here are 106 pieces dating between the second half of the XIX century and the 70s, resulting in an invaluable testimony of how denim evolved through the centuries. For the first-ever collaboration of the Museum with a trade show, a selection of 20 historical garments is exploring three research areas. These are meant to focus on:

• The brand identity of jeans through the main evolutions at Lee;
• The influence of WWII on the design, the creation and the wearing of clothing;
• The history of overall.

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.