From the Sector

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

This autumn, following the success of the first collaboration with Swizz Beatz, Bally joins forces on another unique collection with the Grammy Award-winning music producer and global entrepreneur, inviting meticulously talented pioneer of aerosol X-ray art SHOK-1 to conceptualise and direct a new capsule collection which presents a diagnostic look at contemporary culture through cutting edge expression.

A founding member of the street art movement and a scientist with a degree in Applied Chemistry, SHOK-1 selected three key icons from his back catalogue - X-ray paintings of a hand gesture, a fly and ’The Consumer’ - that symbolise subcultures from his youth that also connect to Bally’s past. The artworks are represented across shoes, accessories and ready to wear. Talking about his vision for the project, SHOK-1 explained that he wanted ‘the collection to speak to the longstanding tradition of subcultures co-opting brands that weren’t meant for them.’ ‘I strongly believe that quality and excellence are universal concepts that can transcend class and cultural boundaries. The Bally that I remember as a kid has this fantastic relationship with subculture. It’s also a brand that has the same kind of attention to detail and production values that I aspire to in my own work, so there was a synergy there.’ Familiar with SHOK-1’s work, Swizz Beatz saw the potential and contacted him to discuss the opportunity: ‘SHOK-1 is a master artist and I chose him because our focus for this capsule was on exploring the art of X-ray and he’s a legend at his craft.’

As with all Bally collaborations, the metamorphosis that naturally evolves from creative cooperation is integral to the process.  Part of the ‘Bally Collective, curated by Swizz Beatz’, this collaboration continues the brand’s commitment to creating a platform to playfully empower artistic license across emerging and established talent.

The exclusive collection will launch in Bally stores worldwide and bally.com in October 2018.

• Italian expertise, research and green innovation.
• METALBOTTONI ups the stakes with one-of-a-kind interpretations, to enhance its market presence.

At Première Vision Accessories (Paris, 19-21 September) the company presents the new collection VÀNITA, a mix of leatherwear and sportswear, based on Made in Italy craft, with an increasingly wide and coordinated range.

Based on product experience, combining new trends in accessories. The METALBOTTONI strategy is enriched with product novelties which aim at exploring new existing market segments. A strategy which increasingly leads great artisan production skills to meet constant research and expansion of the range, with the world of sportswear becoming more and more pivotal; without forgetting the important sustainable innovations of the NO IMPACT protocol.

No Impact becomes “Committed Accessories”

The guideline for restyling the METALBOTTONI range over the past two years has been the recent implementation of the NO IMPACT corporate sustainability protocol, which has just acquired a new “dress”, associated with the following pay-off: “Committed Accessories”. It is a way of underscoring the constant green development of the company over the past few years, in terms of process and product: use of recycled raw materials, development of finishing without chemicals, implementation of processes which today have allowed to reduce electricity and water consumption to almost zero.

Moreover the range of NO IMPACT proposals for this season has expanded to include not only new metal finishing but also leather label completely made from processing scrap, thus establishing Metalbottoni as “partner for branding elements” also in terms of sustainability. Pure Made in Italy and constant expansion of collections towards sportswear The great skill in metal processing, which for sixty years now has characterised the top-of-the-range quality of METALBOTTONI products, is now combined with constant research work conducted by our in-house Style Office, resulting in new collections which are more and more in line with the trends emerging from major trade fairs. Maintaining a presence on strong markets (central Europe, Northern Europe and United States), increasing the depth of segments and intercepting new ones. This is the main goal also chosen for the Première Vision Accessories Exhibition where, alongside the autumn-winter 2019/2020 collections, there will be a preview of VÀNITA, the new collection dedicated to leatherwear and more.

METALBOTTONI is proving to be one of the most dynamic companies in the accessory industry.

Over the past two years, in fact, it has introduced numerous product and process innovations, aiming at increasing its range especially as regards sportswear accessories. This trend was driven by a substantial increase in demand by read-to-wear and luxury brands in the past two seasons, and today it means new proposals which account for 35% of the range for METALBOTTONI. New collections have been presented in the past two seasons expressly dedicated to the sportswear world, namely GRAVITA, the first line designed by the company for pressure buttons, and MÀRYA, the new beachwear collection. Also the line called LABORA, the classic collection of accessories for fashion and ready-to-wear has been constantly enhanced with proposals combining style and technical performance. This mix of fashion and sport elements is increasingly evident in the company’s product range, for example in the combination of different materials, using metal with nylon or other resins to create new and unique accessories.

Vànita: beyond leatherwear, a world of accessories

The meeting between fashion, luxury and sportswear has produced VÀNITA, the brand new collection which presents a new approach to accessories dedicated to leatherwear, from an allround perspective from luxury to sportswear. Developed starting from solid product research by the company’s in-house Style Office, VÀNITA is a true meeting of styles and elements, a combination of high product standards with unique elegance. This line introduces one-of-a-kind visions for accessories, exploring highly original pathways dedicated to the world of leather. The VÀNITA proposal ranges from accessories for leatherwear and small leatherwear, to those for shoes, bags and the sportswear worlds. There are two main lines within this collection: one is expressly designed for the world of luxury, the other has a more technical and sporty approach. A true mix between artisan metal processing, based on the great METALBOTTONI expertise in this sector, and “ingredients” such as nylon, rubber finishes or innovative 3D processing, which are often combined together.

“Our goal is to offer an increasingly comprehensive range which allows us to explore new segments on the markets where we are present” - says Gregorio Valli, CEO and President of METALBOTTONI S.P.A – “a ‘recipe’ which should be able to integrate our unmatched product expertise with a constant expansion of our range and continuous implementation of our pathway towards corporate responsibility and sustainability”.

• September 19, 20, and 21, 2018
• This September visit Première Vision’s Smart Square for a great opportunity to meet and greet ROICA™ experts to discuss responsible innovation and well-being.

ROICA™ experts showcase the world-first ROICA™ Eco Smart family that offers 2 responsible made yarns: a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 3 certified yarn and the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification.

On display in the Smart Square, a 800-sq. m. area dedicated to shed light on a new generation of values combining creativity, innovation and sustainability, is a  unique  range of ROICA™ Eco-Smart family based fabrics, the world's first responsibly made premium stretch fibers creating ROICA™ smart yarns that offer sustainable solutions with impressive certifications:

• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified by Textile Exchange - ROICA™ constructed with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content.
• Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients - ROICA™ yarn evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

ROICA™ experts empower attendees with knowledge, and inspire creativity as they demonstrate ROICA™ Eco-Smart family functionality. Engage the experts in the Smart Square, ask questions and learn about the company’s ongoing commitment to responsible innovation. At the corporate level, ROICA™ has achieved the following certifications: Oeko Tex 100, ISO 14001:2004, ISO 9001:2008. Moreover, ROICA™ mills in Germay achieved the certification of ISO 50001:2001.

ROICA™ partners exhibiting at Première Vision Paris presenting ROICA™ Eco-Smart family:

• Fukui Warp Knitting CO.,LTD  (JP) Hall 6 booth H15
• Iluna Group S.p.A (IT) Hall 5 booth N14 P13
• Jackytex (IT) Hall 5 booth M24 N23
• Lanificio Europa (IT) Hall 6 stand D12, F49
• Maglificio Ripa S.p.A. (IT) Hall 5 booth 5P29
• M.I.T.I. Spa (IT) Hall 6 booth G19
• Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia (DE/IT) booth 6G17
• Sofileta (FR) Hall 6 booth H18 6J13
• TINTEX Textiles (PT) Hall 5 booth N56

Additional ROICA™ partners at Première Vision also exhibiting a wide-range of other ROICA™ specialties:

• Eusebio (IT) Hall 5 booth 5P34 5R15
• Kurabo Industries LTD (JP) Hall 6 booth C20 D21

Lastly, on Friday 21st September 2018, at 1.30 pm, you are invited to join Dr. Stephan Hütte at Première Vision Smart Square as he facilitates an open discussion with exhibitors and introduces the audience to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family. Dr. Hütte will discuss ROICA™ textile innovations for contemporary consumer within the fashion, lingerie and activewear markets.

Recognizing Asahi Kasei for spearheading the premium stretch market, the Dorbinbirn-GFC Global Fiber Congress has invited Dr. Stephan Hütte, Development Manager ROICA™ Fibers at Asahi Kasei to present ROICA™ Eco-Smart family at this year’s congress. The Europe-centered innovation platform for the fiber industry is a distinguished idea and network generator hosting top-ranking international experts in fiber innovations. The event includes 700 participants from 30 nations and will take place September 12th through the 14th in Austria.

Last but not least, at Première Vision ROICA™ is proud to welcome Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager - ROICA™ Division. The company also announces an internal appointment: Mr. Hiroaki Shinohe elected as Chief Marketing Officer for European market.

Die Polo- und Lifestyle-Brand La Martina empfängt Einkäufer künftig in einem modernen und neu ausgerichteten Showroom auf der Speditionsstraße 13 im Düsseldorfer Medienhafen. Damit verfolgt die argentinisch-italienische Marke konsequent die inspirierende Evolution, die die Marke für eine jüngere Zielgruppe öffnen wird.

Düsseldorf - Im Auftrag von La Martina entwickelte und realisierte die Agentur Universal Projekt aus Hardheim das neue und innovative Designkonzept des Showrooms. Moderne Materialien und geradliniges Interieur verpassen dem Auftritt der Marke einen ganz neuen Look, entsprechend der 360-Grad-Neuausrichtung, die das Label derzeit durchläuft. Das reduzierte Design ist in Anlehnung an die neuen Storedesigns und Messeauftritte entstanden, die auf der Pitti Immagine in Florenz sowie der Premium in Berlin zu sehen waren. Auch der neue Mono-Store, der im September 2018 in Paris eröffnen wird, entspricht dieser Optik. Die Fair Play Capsule Collection treibt ebenfalls die jüngere und lässigere Ausrichtung der Marke voran.

Auch der praktische Aspekt bleibt in den neuen Räumlichkeiten nicht außen vor: die reduzierten Warenträger sind variabel und sehr flexibel einsetzbar. Während der CPD Ordertage in Düsseldorf (21. bis 23. Juli 2018) können Einkäufer erstmals das neue Look&Feel mit Kollektions-Highlights von La Martina im 250qm großen Showroom auf der achten Etage des Gebäudes entdecken – beeindruckender Blick auf den Hafen inklusive.

La Martina Deutschlandchef Bastian Ammelounx freut sich bereits auf die besondere Atmosphäre der neuen Umgebung: „Wir befinden uns mit La Martina derzeit in einem sehr spannenden Entwicklungsprozess und verfolgen eine strategische Neuausrichtung in den Bereichen Design und Retail. Die neue Location und das modeaffine Umfeld unseres Showrooms sind ideal für die Einkäufer. Viele Agenturen und etablierte Premium Labels sind hier ansässig. Hinzu kommt der moderne Vibe und die unverwechselbare Architektur des Hafens.“

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

"The atmosphere at all four shows and also the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN Conference was more successful than last summer. The exhibitors repeatedly praised the range of visitors – international buyers, well-founded fashion experts, people that love experiencing new trends and with a high level of awareness for our beautiful world. All of them took the chance to exchange and get inspired by the shows and events. Our strength is the concept of creating content, commerce and community – we connect the right people at the right time and at the right touchpoints. The entire network benefits from that. Furthermore the new digital b2b platform veee.com was featured on the PREMIUM and SEEK and received a very positive feedback."
– Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner PREMIUM GROUP

On three days the PREMIUM GROUP once again showed and linked the most important international brands with buyers, influencers and other media representatives. Outcome: The real face-to-face exchange 2.0 is and remains important.
 
A total of 1,038 brands exhibited on the four formats. On top the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN offered the group's extensive and varied program as a conference. In addition to networking and trend scouting, the main focus was also on points of experience – an important aspect for the fashion industry, to which the PREMIUM GROUP increasingly relies. The halls of STATION Berlin, the Kühlhaus and the Arena Berlin were filled accordingly throughout the three days. The terrific summer weather contributed to the constantly positive atmosphere and invited all guests to enjoy all outdoor offers.

Exhibitors from over 30 countries participating at Kenya's Biggest Int'l. Multi-Sector Trade Exhibition

The largest international trade exhibition in Africa for multi-sector products, equipment and machinery will take place at KICC, Nairobi, Kenya from 04 - 06 September with record breaking numbers. Exhibitors and trade visitors are said to increase by 27% and 24% respectively at the 21st edition of the Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE). The exhibition has grown in stature from its inception 22 years ago, as the key networking and sourcing platform for the industries. As the largest event of its kind, it ensures direct access to over 150 exhibitors from 30 countries and more than 12,000 trade visitors.

With an amazing array of products and services from all over the world, it gives visitors the opportunity to source cutting edge products and services as well as learn about and discuss the latest market trends. There is no other related trade exhibition in East Africa that delivers the same quality, quantity and variety of buyers and distributors.

Concentrating on some of the largest growth categories within the multi sector industry, Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE) 2018 has five distinct sub categories, namely: FOODAGRO, MEDEXPO, PPPEXPO & INDUSMACH which will cover the food, hotel & agricultural sectors, medical & pharmaceuticals, plastic, printing & packaging sector, the industrial and finally the consumer sector. Being centrally located, Kenya emerges as one of the largest importers in Africa. Kenya also has the largest economy in east Africa and is a regional financial and transportation hub.

The conference will focus on areas of high impact and growth potential, for example smart and intelligent textile coatings and laminates, digital printing and coatings, substrates and coated nonwovens.
Now in its 27th year, this will be the 19th in this established conference series which has become one of the most important meeting places for the global textiles coating and laminating industry.  Previously attending companies can be found on the conference website, where other details can also be located.

CALL FOR PAPERS
The core of the conference programme will be presentations by invited experts, but in order to give an opportunity for anyone with exciting and relevant ideas to present to a high-level international audience, a call for papers is being issued for contributions in the following areas, with emphasis on work that will impact the industry, now and in the future.  Suggested topics include the following:

• new developments in machinery and techniques such as bonding systems, developments in polymers, surface modifications, techniques for extreme properties etc.
• smart textile coatings and laminates
• technology for growth, eg nanotechnology, antimicrobial/antibacterial, green technology, developments in self-decontaminating etc.
• growth markets and applications such as solar/thermal, fuel cells, composites, medical/biotechnology, extreme materials etc.
• environmental issues
• disruptive technology - new developments that will potentially change the industry, such as digital printing, graphene and nanotechnology in membranes, and alternatives for PVC etc.

OutDoor2018: Schoeller’s coldblack® technology has been specifically optimized for use on knitted and woven fabrics so brands can now expand their product application uses. Under the blazing sun, textiles with coldblack® heat up less and stay cool to the touch. Südwolle Group, a leading manufacturer of high quality yarns, has also recognized the ideal combination of merino and coldblack®. With this, the wear comfort of wool apparel can be tangibly improved.

Wool is well known for its various property benefits, including insulation, natural antibacterial protection, odor control, light weight and nearly wrinkle free composition. Not only in the winter time, but also in summer particularly merino wool, a special high-quality type of wool, regulates moisture balance and thus the body temperature. The fibers can absorb a great deal of moisture or sweat and transport it away from the body. Warm ambient air quickly dries the material and causes a cooling evaporation, which makes it very comfortable to wear merino apparel in the summer time.

coldblack® technology from Schoeller supports the natural properties of wool because it reliably reduces heat build-up when exposed to the sun. Together with the help of Südwolle Group, the finish has been optimized specifically for the use in merino apparel. The yarn manufacturer chooses coldblack® for a variety of uses, especially for knitting and weaving yarns for sports and outdoor apparel and develops such products individually according to its customers’ requirements.

Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group, summarizes the use of the technology as follows: “coldblack® is part of our product range for the summer time, which we will be presenting at OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. The technology reduces not only heat build-up, but also enhances the natural UV protection of wool without affecting the look and feel of the fabric. Therefore coldblack® perfectly fits into our yarn selection for sports and outdoor apparel, for example in our collection ʻYarn in Motion’. For end consumers garments made of coldblack® yarns can optionally be labeled with hangtags.”

When used in high-quality woolen fabrics, coldblack® has already proven its performance and is being used by renowned brands in various collections of men’s suits. Since 2008, the technology has been licensed by more than 200 brands, in sports particularly in the field of cycling, triathlon and golf. All components of the finish are bluesign® approved.