From the Sector

Three strong women, each different from the other, but who have managed to leave their mark on the history and evolution of the female role, and despite living in different eras, have left an indelible mark on society: Madame De Pompadour, nicknamed Reinette, the favourite of King Louis XV, Luisa Amman, called Corè by the great poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, and the iconic Vivienne Westwood, Miss Viv.
The three women are the FOREVER ICONS chosen and celebrated Iluna, where each woman becomes the protagonist of a “traveling exhibition” that will accompany Iluna between events and fairs.

Reinette
The nickname "Reinette" belonged to Madame De Pompadour, the favourite of King Louis XV. She had a significant influence in politics, arts, and fashion, shaping the style of the first half of the 18th century. Beauty and grace are represented in a floral theme, featuring small romantic details that become opulent with the use of lurex and golden cords. The color palette is soft, muted, and powderyry.

Corè
Luisa Amman, born in the late 19th century into a wealthy bourgeois family, married at a young age and became Marchesa Casati. "Corè" is the endearing nickname given to her by her lover Gabriele D'Annunzio, inspired by Kore, the Queen of the Underworld. She was a patron of the arts, an eccentric and transgressive collector. This theme celebrates opulence, from peacock feathers to Liberty-style designs in deep colours and warm metallic glimmers. An innovative proposal for the theme is the pleating technique, achieved directly in the weaving process of the Ultralight jacquardtronic laces.

Miss Viv
Vivienne Westwood, an extraordinary protagonist with an intense and irreverent life. Her insights have forever marked fashion and transformed the general standards of dressing. Rock and rebellious, she drew inspiration from street trends, anticipating avant-garde movements. In the 1990s, she brought back Tartan, mixing it with sensual roses in a maximalism that went against the prevailing trends, featuring vibrant colours. At the beginning of the third millennium, she grasped the importance of preserving the planet and left us with a motto that is more urgent and relevant than ever: "Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last." Within this theme, there is a new GRS-certified print that saves water, applied to ultra-fine Lurex nets, which are also certified.

The PREMIUM and SEEK teams around Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz prove their skills with the success of the new Trend and Event Platform. The format, newly shortened to just two days, showed a total of 450 curated, international brands of the new generation, with 250 brands at PREMIUM and 200 brands at SEEK. The motto was quality over quantity. In addition to the brands, the focus was clearly on the know-how of experts from sustainability, tech, and business. If you didn't discover or learn anything new in the last two days you missed out. Visitors from all over the world came to Station Berlin to see what the Premium Group had come up with for this edition - and it did not disappoint.

PREMIUM reinvents itself
The newly curated brand portfolio with many international and unexposed brands were very well received by the community and invited buyers and visitors to explore a diverse, exciting, and coherent brand landscape. The atmosphere was characterised by lightness, lots of sunshine, and good conversations.

For the first time, PREMIUM and the Fashion Council Germany joined forces to present the showroom "CURATED by Fashion Council Germany" with avant-garde designers from Germany and Ukraine. The tech format Yonnaverse addressed the most important innovations for profitability and sustainable growth through digital progress. The event took place physically, digitally, and in the Metaverse.

Iranian artist and milliner Maryam Keyhani showed what surrealism marketing and tangible art can look like with her oversized hat, which floated happily over the grounds and caused surprised faces. The installation by the Italian designer Innerrraum from Berlin was dedicated to Anita Tillmann in gratitude for her international success. Artists such as Sophie Douala from France, Claudia Gillies from New Zealand, and Grycja Erde from Ukraine were a welcome addition in making the PREMIUM visit an experience.

The diverse portfolio also included a range of beauty brands and the beauty lounge offered much-loved make-up, hair and nail touch ups. There were also many new things to discover in the retail sphere. Vintage & Rags presented a new retail concept for second-hand fashion and SPSR showed how to take retail entertainment to the next level through unique live consumer engagement. On the Content Cube stage, Daniel Steindorf, the former owner of Überfahrt, spoke with Inga Klaassen from J'N'C about hospitality fusion, community, and retail, next to other speakers.

SEEK put a stronger focus on sustainability
As in previous editions, a relaxed and positive mood prevailed at SEEK. The community was happy to finally fall into each other's arms again. SEEK convinced with high-quality and original brands and an even stronger focus on sustainability. For the first time, SEEK's brand portfolio consisted of 50% sustainable brands, further strengthening the Conscious Club and allowing it to flourish. The Conscious Club was supported by the sustainability experts from studio MM04, whose 202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit Denim Pop-up ensured a full Content Cube.

Decision-makers and fashion professionals discussed the learnings of the denim transformation, the new green claims of the EU textile strategy as well as pragmatic solutions on how to remain and act more sustainable and competitive as an industry and individual brand. As a counterpart to Black Friday, Cold Friday, initiated by Dojo Cares, was presented as the "biggest awareness campaign since sales days have existed". Fair fashion and fair working conditions were the focus of the final conference of the "Good Clothes Fair Pay" press conference by Fashion Revolution, which was also part of the Conscious Club. On top of a lot of sustainability inspiration, for the first time there was a space for D2C brands such as VGB and ADR Atelier Roupa, who were involved both as brands and as speakers in the content programme. For two days, two stages were filled with talks and panels with the most relevant themes from fashion, lifestyle, culture and business. Gen Z, Gen Y and Gen Alpha met for espresso martinis and club culture vibes at "Platte raves the Ground" to discover and stage the coolest styles of the scene.

OETI – Mitglied der international tätigen TESTEX Gruppe – kauft das deutsche Unternehmen ECS, um sein Services-Portfolio im Bereich persönlicher Schutzausrüstungen (PSA) zu erweitern.

Seit rund 40 Jahren bietet das OETI – mit Hauptsitz in Österreich, Prüfungen für textile Arbeitskleidung an. Ab1993, mit der Einführung der CE-Kennzeichnung für persönliche Schutzausrüstung und dem Erlassen der PSA-Richtlinie durch die Europäische Union, prüft das OETI nicht nur textile persönliche Schutzausrüstungen, sondern zertifiziert sie auch EU-konform. Im Jahr 1995 erfolgt OETI‘s Notifizierung in Brüssel als Notified Body (0534) für Baumusterprüfungen und die Überwachung der Qualitätssicherung für das Endprodukt von persönlicher Schutzausrüstung. Geprüft und zertifiziert wird gemäß der aktuellen PSA-Verordnung (EU) 2016/425.

Die ECS GmbH - Prüf- und Zertifizierungsstelle für Augen- und Gesichtsschutz mit Sitz in Aalen wurde vor 15 Jahren gegründet und ist eine weltweit agierende Institution für die Prüfung und Zertifizierung von Augen- und Gesichtsschutzgeräten. Für persönliche Schutzprodukte bei Laseranwendungen und für Schweißarbeiten ist das Unternehmen eine der führenden unabhängigen Prüfeinrichtungen.

Die ECS prüft und bewertet Arbeitsschutzbrillen mit und ohne Filterwirkung, passive und aktiv-schaltende Schweißerschutzfilter und -abschirmungen, Laserschutzfilter, -brillen und -abschirmungen. Ebenso prüft das Unternehmen die optischen Eigenschaften von Sonnen-, Sport-, Ski-, Schwimm- und Motorradbrillen.

Nach der Übernahme durch OETI bleibt der ECS-Standort in Aalen erhalten, alle Mitarbeiter*innen sind weiterhin bei der ECS tätig. Neuer Geschäftsführer der ECS GmbH ist ab 1. Juli 2023 Dipl.-Ing. Rolf Diebolder.

„Wir sind auf dem europäischen, auf dem amerikanischen und über eine Vertretung auf dem chinesischen Markt präsent. Mit Hilfe der neuen Vertriebswege durch OETI und TESTEX wollen wir den Ausbau der ECS stetig vorantreiben und auf allen fünf Kontinenten präsent sein.“, so Geschäftsführer Rolf Diebolder.

Weiteres Potenzial in der Zusammenarbeit sieht Diebolder auch in Bezug auf Laserschutzkleidung. Hier könne das von der ECS beauftragte Laserlabor dazu genutzt werden, um Textilien Laserschutz-sicher zu machen. Es wird in Zukunft immer mehr „hand-held“ Geräte geben, also Laserschweißgeräte, für die man Handschuhe und Schutzjacken benötigt.

Under the motto “People Matter” numerous exhibitors will be presenting innovative solutions and concepts revolving around safe and healthy work at A+A 2023. This year, the overarching theme of the leading international trade fair will be the two megatrends digitalisation and sustainability.    

Furthermore, A+A organisers have changed the hall concept and optimised routing at the exhibition centre: the halls have been clearly segmented according to theme, thereby placing similar products and services in close proximity with each other. This makes it easier for visitors to locate the companies exhibiting ranges of particular interest to them and to find their bearings at the fairgrounds.  

Also new: Halls 16 and 17 will present Corporate Wear and Hall 15 the complete spectrum of components and accessories for manufacturing up-to-date protective wear.      

In addition to a Corporate Fashion Show visitors are in for further exciting forums as well as an extensive congress programme with international appeal: including the 38th International Congress for Occupational Safety and Occupational Medicine as well as the WearRAcon Europe, to be held in Germany for the first time as part of A+A. Likewise, such topics as ergonomics and New Work will be given significantly more visibility owing to new cooperations and expert lectures.  

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

BDG [By Urban Outfitters] and ISKO have come together to develop a 10-piece collection made up of workwear-inspired denim pieces with finishing designs by British Artist, Dwayne Coleman.

Partnering with ISKO, Urban Outfitters has developed more sustainable denim pieces for this collaboration, utilizing recycled cotton yarns made from cutting waste. All pieces are washed using innovative technology to reduce the chemical, water, and energy footprint so that each item has a low environmental impact score. The development of these washes were done with the help of the experts at ISKO’s Creative Room London. The collection even features an innovative style that uses no virgin cotton, and yet the authenticity and durability remains the same.

The collaboration incorporates the principles of circular design, including minimal wash processing, recycled cotton content, minimal metal trims and removable shank buttons. The styles are designed to last, and after many wears they will be readily recyclable for their next life. Urban Outfitters are also members of Better Cotton whose mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment as part of the brand's wider sustainability initiatives.

The collection designs pay homage to workwear trends to deliver an all-encompassing gender free denim capsule. The finishing touch across the range comes from established British Artist, Dwayne Coleman, who has created an artwork made with upcycled denim and paint techniques which has become the inspiration for denim surface treatment. Elements of his mark-making have been applied to the design of the collection, including wildflower embroideries, patching and hanging threads.

2^nd Denim Innovation Night presented by Pacific Jeans was held during the 14^th Bangladesh Denim Expo to showcase the innovation in the country’s denim industry.

The show displayed the very latest in sustainably produced and innovative denim products from Pacific Jeans to apparel brands and retailers, embassy representatives, development partners and to the representatives of the industry supply chain.

About 500 invited guests got the opportunity to witness the denim research, design and production innovation provided by the Bangladeshi denim Group highlighting the breadth and depth of denim innovation available in the country – from fibre, through to fabrics, design, manufacture and finishing.

Pacific Jeans Limited manufactures premium jeans in Bangladesh and exports to over 50 countries. With a continuous focus on quality improvement and value addition, adoption of updated denim processing technology, commitment towards safe and sustainable industry, the group has become one of the preferred suppliers to leading global fashion retailers.

The program was inaugurated by Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi, MP; while the Head of the Delegation of the European Union in Bangladesh H.E. Charles Whiteley was the Guest of Honor; President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Faruque Hassan and Country Representative of the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) in Bangladesh Yuji Ando were special guests at the program.

The 1st Denim Innovation Night was presented by Pacific Jeans during the 7th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo in November 2017.

Performance sportswear brand FIRE+ICE by BOGNER announces an exclusive collaboration with the multi-sport athlete, Ester Ledecka. This 28-year-old made history during the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Games as the first athlete to win Olympic gold medals in two distinct sports in the same year. Ester has followed her career with winning 24 World Cup races in skiing and snowboarding combined and defending her Olympic gold in snowboarding in 2022.

Ester's athletic spirit runs in the family, with her grandfather being an ice hockey world champion and Olympian. The Czech-born athlete took up skiing at the age of two and added snowboarding to her repertoire just three years later. On top of her performance on snow, she embraces her passion for windsurfing during the summer months.

Her personality and drive for success perfectly align with FIRE+ICE's commitment to outstanding performance, innovation, and adventure. This stylish collaboration blends high-performance Olympic sport with trendy urban performance wear.

"FIRE+ICE by BOGNER is my go-to outfitter for every occasion. In winter, I'm well protected from wind, cold and wet, and in warmer seasons, I'm fashionably and functionally geared up for surfing. The brand ideally reflects my lifestyle, and I'm excited about the upcoming joint projects", says Ester.

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

PREMIUM and SEEK are focusing on a more rigorous curation of promising brands and collections as well as various opportunities to connect. An extensive content programme of keynotes, round tables, live interviews, study presentations and panels on the most important trends will offer two diverse and time-efficient days. The areas of concentration encompass sustainability, technology, fashion, business, lifestyle, and beauty. The repertoire of topics include marketing themes such as LinkedIn and Tik Tok, new tech tools such as ChatGPT or Virtual Dressing as well as news from the metaverse. Sustainability topics such as denim, circularity, re-commerce, vintage and the new Green Deal laws will be discussed as well as cross-industry topics such as female empowerment, Gen Z and modern leadership.
     
PREMIUM marks the first event of the season for womenswear. New silhouettes, design trends, provocation and the current zeitgeist are brought to the forefront with a carefully curated selection of brands. The fashion scene and visitors can look forward to the best of denim, hyper-femininity, beauty, well-being, future Berlin icons and innovations from the tech and lifestyle sphere. New talents will also have the opportunity to pitch their labels to a professional audience. SEEK focuses on heritage, Y2K, modern sportswear, outdoor and sustainable brands, which will be shown in the CONSCIOUS CLUB. Other highlights will include talks and inspiring activations from the community.

"We listen, research and curate the most important trends for the industry. To do this, our team of experts travels across Europe and exchange ideas with representatives from the entire industry. The results of months of work can be discovered in two days," says Maren Wiebus, Creative Director of the Premium Group.

Today, attention is the most important currency for the fashion industry. This is also why, for the very first time ever, the Premium Group events will take place over only two days instead of three. At the same time, generally accepted norms and rules are questioned, taken apart, and put back together again. The organisers of Premium Group invite fashion professionals to discuss the rules and redefine them together.
 
The summer editions of PREMIUM and SEEK will take place on 11 and 12 July at the new old location Station-Berlin in the heart of Berlin.