From the Sector

• DOMOs neue NYLEO®-Marke vereint DOMOs Erfahrung mit Nylon 66-basierten Fasern und legt mit drei neuen Produkten den Schwerpunkt auf Innovation
• NYLEO® PROTECT steht für verbesserten Flammschutz, NYLEO® 4EARTH® ist der Name für verbesserte biologische Abbaubarkeit und NYLEO® SAFE zeichnet sich durch bakteriostatische Eigenschaften aus
• NYLEO® repräsentiert einen neuen Meilenstein in DOMOs wachsendem Angebot an nachhaltigen Lösungen

NYLEO® ist DOMOs neue Produktlinie und kombiniert bewährte Hochleistungsfasern mit bahnbrechenden neuen Lösungen. NYLEO® auf Nylon 66-Basis wird in zahlreichen Anwendungen eingesetzt, darunter Textilien, Bodenbeläge sowie Flock- und Schleifmittel. Aufgrund seiner Eigenschaften bietet NYLEO® ein breites Spektrum an Möglichkeiten für die Verbesserung der Produktleistung.

DOMOs NYLEO® setzt auf unsere Erfahrungen mit Nylon 66-basierten Fasern und legt mit drei Produkten den Schwerpunkt auf Innovation: NYLEO® PROTECT mit verbessertem Flammschutz, NYLEO® 4EARTH® mit verbesserter biologischer Abbaubarkeit und NYLEO® SAFE mit bakteriostatischen Eigenschaften.

DOMOs Erbe an innovativen Nylon 66-Fasern
DOMOs Team für Hochleistungsfasern hat seinen Sitz im französischen Valence. DOMO produziert seit 1955 PA66-Fasern für Anwendungsbereiche wie Schleifmittelvliese, Luftfahrt, Teppichböden, Hochleistungstextilien, Flock für Polstermöbel, Innenausstattung und -böden von Autos sowie viele weitere Verbraucherprodukte. Die NYLEO® Marke wird nun auf das gesamte Portfolio an Polyamid 66 (PA 66)-Faserprodukten, einschließlich gekräuseltem TOW oder TOW für die Flockherstellung, angewendet. Fasern auf Basis von PA66 sind für hohe Widerstandsfähigkeit, hervorragende Verschleiß- und Abriebfestigkeit, hohe Zähigkeit, ausgezeichnete Färbbarkeit und Farbechtheit sowie einheitliche Qualität und weiche Haptik bekannt. Dazu gehören:

• NYLEO® PROTECT – um das Sicherheitsniveau in den Bereichen persönliche Schutzausrüstung, Bekleidung, Möbel und Transport zu erhöhen, hat DOMO eine neue flammhemmende PA 66-Faser entwickelt. NYLEO® PROTECT vereint alle Vorteile von PA 66, wie z. B. mechanische Eigenschaften, Komfort, geringes spezifisches Gewicht und hervorragende Abriebfestigkeit, mit verbessertem Flammschutz. Der Sauerstoffindex (LOI) von NYLEO® PROTECT wurde auf 28 % verbessert, was dem Niveau typischer flammhemmender Fasern entspricht.
• NYLEO® 4EARTH® – immer mehr Hersteller befassen sich mit den Themen Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft und versuchen ihren Einfluss auf die Umwelt weitmöglichst zu verringern, z. B. durch ein besseres Abfallmanagement. Die textile Wertschöpfungskette hat starken Anteil an den Mülldeponien, auf denen die meisten Kleidungsstücke enden. Aus diesem Grund entwickelte DOMO mit NYLEO® 4EARTH® eine Faser, die auf Deponien besser biologisch abgebaut wird. Während traditionelle Nylon 66-Fasern 50 – 100 Jahre für den Zerfall benötigten, braucht NYLEO® 4EARTH aufgrund seiner verbesserten biologischen Abbaubarkeit nur fünf Jahre, um abgebaut zu werde.
• NYLEO® SAFE – die Verbreitung von Bakterien hat sich zu einem immer dringlicheren Gesundheitsproblem entwickelt. Bei NYLEO® SAFE wird ein bakteriostatisches Mittel in die Polymermatrix eingebracht, wo es die Fasern langfristig schützt und das Wachstum von Bakterien verhindert.

Albini Group, historic manufacturer of high-end shirting fabrics, meets C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, international platform for the promotion and development of innovative and sustainable textiles. Two groundbreaking companies joining forces in the name of ethical and technological development through the C.L.A.S.S. Material Hub, the section dedicated to fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics that are changing the fashion and textile industry.  The values in which Albini Group believes and the strong sensitivity to environmental issues have led the company to also address the issue of the risk of toxic and harmful chemicals in a systemic way, integrating into the production cycles activities and controls aimed at gradually eliminating their presence, with the clear objective of protecting man and the environment.

Three main research areas - innovative fibers and yarns, sustainable dyes and green chemistry - united by the task of transferring cutting-edge technologies through open innovation. Among the new projects presented is "Off the Grain," born from the collaboration with Riso Gallo, a leading rice producer in Italy. It is a new type of dye derived from the processing of a particular variety of black rice: the boiling water of the rice, which can no longer be used for the food industry, is transformed into a natural dye, resulting in significant water savings during the dyeing process.

"Grounded Indigo" is a natural textile dyestuff, born from the search for dyeing practices that are more responsible to people and the environment. For this project, ALBINI_next chose to collaborate with Stony Creek Colors, an American producer of the world's only 100% plant-based indigo that is USDA BioPreferred certified.

The third project, called "HempFeel," is an innovative hemp oil-based finishing, tipically used for cosmetic products. ALBINI_next was the first company to apply it to fabrics of different weights, compositions and structures. HempFeel replaces silicones usually used in finishing, thus reducing the release of microplastics and giving fabrics a soft and durable hand.

"When discussing values related to creativity, next-generation production and commitment to ethics and traceability, Albini is an extremely important point of reference." says Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S. "This is why we are delighted with its inclusion within our Material Hub, alongside its colleagues of the responsible innovation movement. Follow us on this new common path. Next- generation solutions and nice surprises will not be missed."

• Responsible RF (Residual Free) line from ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals.

In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste.

ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health.

The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

ISKO’s partnership with PAOLO GNUTTI, featuring exclusive creations for the luxury segment, landed at Denim Première Vision in Berlin. Merging sustainable and innovative fashion with new premium aesthetics.

The collection, launched for the first time at Denim Première Vision, embodies ISKO’s most revolutionary technological innovations combined with the long-standing expertise of Paolo Gnutti, who explored aesthetics highly profiled to the unique needs of the luxury segment through 7 main moods:

1. Denim addicted, celebrating total denim looks, offering classic silhouettes mixed up with revised volumes and details;
2. Y2k, bringing back the 2000s typical style featuring exposed skin, low waist pants, micro tops, mini skirts, shrunken garments, butterfly decorations and embellishments;
3. Fanaticism, featuring bright, bold colors, intricate prints and logos combined with details that meet ample volume styles;
4. Bounder glam, all about glammed up leather effects inspired by bikers' unapologetic style and applied to oversize fits, cutouts and lace-ups styles;
5. Moto’roll, where the iconic 60s and 70s biker style is back with a modern twist and a vast range of treatments and fabrics, offering men and women true crowd-pleasers;
6. Gingham mania, an in-depth exploration of the gingham trend which finds expression through various dimensions and techniques that cater to any silhouette;
7. Rugged re-made, which celebrates workwear and historical garments creating a style that combines history with technologies, solutions and treatments to recreate that vintage look dear to the heart of lovers of denim heritage.

EURATEX has just released its Spring report, offering a detailed insight into trade figures for the European textile and apparel industry in 2021. The numbers are encouraging: comparing with the dramatic corona-year 2020, EU exports of textile and clothing articles increased by +10.6%, while imports dipped by -7.5%. As a result, the EU trade deficit improved, even it remains significant (- €48 billion).

Furthermore, import prices went slightly down in clothing and dropped in textiles, following a strong decrease of Chinese import prices of face masks and protective medical supplies.

The boost in exports was mainly due to strong performance on the Swiss, Chinese and US markets. On the other side, EU sales of textile & clothing to the United Kingdom fell sharply (-23%), due to Brexit new requirements, customs’ delays and shortage of truck drivers.  Imports from the EU top supplier, China, plunged by -28%, corresponding to €13 billion. Similarly, textile and clothing imports from the United Kingdom recorded a sharp decrease over the period (-48%, equal to €-3 billion).

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “the 2021 export figures, presented in this Spring report, confirm that EURATEX members have gained momentum; even if energy prices are causing some serious short-term disruptions, our long-term ambition remains to be a world leader on sustainable textiles.”

The international trade dimension is indeed critical for the competitiveness of the European textile ecosystem, and needs to be fully embedded in the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The Commission insists that “all textile products placed on the EU market, are durable, free of hazardous substances, produced respecting social standards…” This is an essential condition to create a level playing field between all textile and apparel companies, regardless of their production base. With €100 billion of imports, and over 20 billion of “foreign” textile items put on the Single Market, this requires a dramatic upscaling of market surveillance, without however disrupting fluid supply chains.

Looking at the impact of war in Ukraine, EURATEX has strongly condemned the Russian aggression, and offered support to the Ukrainian textile industry. Ukraine offers valuable sourcing opportunities for European textile and apparel brands, as part of a broader nearshoring trend, which seems to emerge from the trade figures.

• Beschaffungsprobleme, Überregulierung und Inflation belasten die Branche

Die Hersteller der deutschen Maschenindustrie blicken zum zweiten Quartal des Jahres sorgenvoll in die Zukunft.  Die wirtschaftlichen Folgen des Kriegs in der Ukraine und die anhaltenden Störungen in den Lieferketten lassen die Erträge trotz befriedigender Auftragslage einbrechen. „Immer höheren Beschaffungspreise belasten die Margen“, sagt Martina Bandte, Präsidentin des Gesamtverbands der deutschen Maschenindustrie. „Dazu kommt die Kaufzurückhaltung der Konsumenten, die durch die politische Lage und die hohe Inflation verunsichert sind.“

Mit den Umsätzen im In- und Ausland und den aktuellen Auftragseingängen sind gut 95 Prozent der Maschenfirmen zufrieden. Dadurch ist der Geschäftsklimaindex der Maschenindustrie zum 2. Quartal 2022 mit 9,28 zwar noch deutlich positiv, doch verzeichnet er im Vergleich zum 1. Quartal (17,96 Indexpunkte) einen drastischen Rückgang. Die Branche erwartet in den nächsten Monaten Nachfrageeinbrüche und weiter steigende Produktionskosten.  60 Prozent der Hersteller rechnen mit einer weiteren Verschlechterung der Ertragslage.

„Wirtschaft und Verbraucher brauchen jetzt dringend Entlastung. Aber Berlin und Brüssel nehmen allen Alarmsignalen zum Trotz weiter Kurs auf noch mehr Bürokratie und Vorschriften“, kritisiert die Familienunternehmerin Bandte. „Teure und ideologisch motivierte Regulierung in der Umwelt- und Energiepolitik und eine Wohlführpolitik auf Pump ziehen uns den Boden unter den Füßen weg. Die Politik scheint sich nicht mehr für ein innovationsfreundliches und dynamisches Wirtschaftsklima in Europa zu interessieren. Das ist Gift für Wachstum und Innovation.“

The opening of this facility marks the expansion of ISKO’s Creative Room Services (CRS) division and its dedication to the continuation of responsible production.

ISKO has opened its first product development centre, based in London. Creative Room London is a unique and innovative space and the first of its kind in the UK. It is the latest initiative of Creative Room Services (CRS), a division of ISKO devoted to offering streamlined and simplified solutions for all denim requirements – from fabric to finished garment.

With a focus on sustainable washing and finishing techniques, customers at Creative Room London will be able to work in parallel with experts to achieve their desired denim looks. Together with machine technology partner Jeanologia, they have been able to develop innovative washing and finishing techniques that meet the highest quality and sustainability standards with a significantly lower environmental impact.

The Creative Room London will also be the central point for their customer’s full product development, ensuring the whole process is agile and more efficient. As well as a hub for its customers, Creative Room London will also act as a platform of education and support for the wider denim community, working with local talent and universities to share knowledge and to bring ideas and concepts to life.

For the autumn/winter season 2022, FIRE+ICE is further developing both sides of BOGNER's collection: function and performance. Bold colors, modern prints, technical materials and fashionable silhouettes create looks for luxurious fashion metropoles as well as mountain resorts.

The collection presents new versions of the characteristic FIRE+ICE ID jackets made of recycled fibers. The ski touring styles are multifunctional garments for all active outdoor activities: Whether ski touring, skiing, cross-country skiing or hiking, the focus is on the right support, fit and equipment to stay cool on the ascent and warm on the descent. The signature mix of freeride attitude and contemporary urban style creates casual "urban outdoor pieces" with a technical twist.

• ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei for its responsible RF (Residual Free) line

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals. In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.

SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste. ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health. The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

Thanks to the constant synergy with its premium partner in innovative and responsible stretch, Innova continues its path towards a textile and fashion industry that respects the planet, without forgetting profit. And this is just the beginning. Innova Fabrics pieces containing SENSIL® BioCare and ROICA™ V550

• Currency-neutral sales down 3% as supply constraints reduce top-line by € 400 million
• Western markets continue to show strong momentum with combined currency-neutral sales growing 13% across North America (+13%), EMEA (+9%) and Latin America (+38%)  
• Gross margin down 1.9pp to 49.9% driven by significantly higher supply chain costs
• Operating margin of 8.2% reflecting additional investments into brand, DTC, and digital
• Net income from continuing operations reaches € 310 million
• FY 2022 outlook for revenue and net income confirmed at the lower end due to the impact from covid-19-related lockdowns in Greater China

“In the first quarter, consumer demand for our brand and products was strong in all Western markets. Our combined sales in North America, EMEA and Latin America grew at a double-digit rate. Backed by an exceptionally strong wholesale order book and relentless focus on driving growth in our own DTC channels, we expect this positive development to continue for the rest of the year,” said adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted. “In the East, we will return to growth in Asia-Pacific in the second quarter, while we expect the challenging market environment in Greater China to continue. With strong double-digit growth in the vast majority of our markets, representing more than 80% of our business, we are well positioned for success in 2022. “

For the full press release, see attached document.