From the Sector

The ecological and social conditions in the production of textiles are coming to the fore and into the consciousness of industry and end customers. With the new LAB102 brand, the "Jeans & Garment" team of the CHT Group to offer its global denim customers sustainable chemical solutions and technologies in the future.

Where does the name "LAB102 - Blue veins of CHT" come from?
LAB was chosen not only because the English word for laboratory fits perfectly with a chemical company, but also because it stands for innovation, development, and discovery. The digits 102 in the name refer to the house number of CHT's corporate headquarters in Tübingen.
The slogan "Blue veins of CHT" maintains the connection to the name CHT which is well-known in the industry. Moreover, the denim or jeans industry is traditionally and historically indigo - thus blue.

Focus on sustainability
LAB102 focuses not only on chemistry, but also on technology. Fogging, laser, and ozone technologies are innovations that currently enable new approaches in jeans and garment treatment and are at a high ecological level. Their use can lead to savings in water and energy. The use of chemicals can also be reduced if processes are optimized and adapted to the new requirements. To this end, the CHT Group's "Jeans & Garment" team works with the leading machine manufacturers on new developments.

Am 22. Oktober 2022 öffnet das Streetwear Label Live Fast Die Young – kurz LFDY – die Türen seines ersten Stores in Hamburg. Im neuen Standort auf der Einkaufsstraße Hohe Bleichen trifft Premium-Lage auf ein innovatives Store-Konzept, ausgewählte Design-Möblierung und urbane Fotografie.

Nach München, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Köln und Amsterdam ist das Streetwear Label Live Fast Die Young nun auch in Hamburg vertreten. Der neue LFDY-Store erstreckt sich über zwei Etagen und umfasst insgesamt 265 m². Während im Erdgeschoss des modernen Gebäudes Verkaufsflächen, Showroom und ein Umkleidebereich liegen, erwartet die Kunden im Obergeschoss eine großzügige Lounge sowie ein offenes Lager. Erweiternd kann die Etage als Private Shopping Area genutzt werden.

Für den neuen Store arbeitete die Streetwear Brand erneut mit den Architekten von Schwitzke & Partner zusammen, die das bewährte LFDY-Showroom-Konzept auf die Hamburger Fläche übertrugen.
Eine weitere Besonderheit: Neben Laden- und Eventfläche bietet der LFDY-Store Raum für Kunst. Zu den Ausstellungsstücken zählen urbane Fotografien des Künstlers Paul Hutchinson und Spiegelkunst von Victor Bonato.

RHEON LABS, a fast-growing materials technology company based in Battersea, London, has completed an extensive 6 month trial with FET, a world leader in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment. Backed by a £173,000 grant from Innovate UK for feasibility studies, RHEON LABS has further developed its RHEON™ technology, a reactive polymer that dynamically stiffens when subjected to force. The technology can control energy of any amplitude or frequency, from small vibrations to forces at ballistic-speeds and therefore has a wide range of applications.
 
This Innovate UK Smart Grant-backed project aims to develop a hyper viscoelastic fibre from RHEON™ which displays high strain-rate sensitive properties. Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive properties will be a world first. It will enable the creation of a 'breakthrough-generation' of stretch textiles that can actively absorb, dampen and control energy during movement, rather than simply acting as a spring.

For close-fitting activewear and sports bras, the ability to actively control muscle mass or soft tissue movement during exercise will be a game-changing advancement. It will allow brands to engineer garments that relax during everyday use but actively stiffen during exercise for improved support and performance.
The Innovate UK grant was awarded under the category of Hyper-Viscoelastic Fibre Extrusion for Textile Manufacture. Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) enabled the customer trials at its bespoke Fibre Development Centre in Leeds, England using its in-house FET-103 Monofilament meltspinning facilities, in harness with RHEON and FET technical operatives. The next phase will be to upscale the trials of preferred materials on RHEON’s own new FET-103 meltspinning line, with FET’s continued support and expertise on hand.
 
Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive characteristics could be as radical a change in the market as the initial introduction of stretch fibre with the launch of Lycra™. The textiles would have a multitude of beneficial properties and would provide significantly less compression in the garment than conventional materials, substantially improving user comfort, support and performance.

Die Master-Studentin Joline Kaumanns am Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein hat den Materialica Award 2022 in der Kategorie „Student“ gewonnen. Ihre Arbeit „S-Polarskin - Abundance of Light – Impulses of Sustainable Lightning“ wurde für das herausragende Design und die hohe Technologiekompetenz auf der eMove 360°-Messe in Berlin ausgezeichnet. Begleitet wurde die Arbeit von Professorin Marina-Elena Wachs.

Abundance of Light bedeutet Lichtfülle und impliziert damit differenzierte, sich ergänzende Materialeigenschaften. Materialien, wie Wolle, Papiergarn und recyceltes Zellophan werden unter dem Aspekt der Nachhaltigkeit verwendet. Diese Komponenten sind in einem Gewebe- und Gestrick-Gefüge als Sandwich-Material miteinander auf innovative Art verbunden. Die einzelnen Teile der Fläche greifen visuell ineinander.

Die locker gestrickte Ab-Seite verleiht dem Material eine voluminöse Haptik und sorgt für Lufteinschlüsse. Durch Lanolin ist es besonders wasserabweisend und erhält mit Dill, dem schwedischen Nationalgewürz, weitere multisinnliche Eigenschaften. Vorausgegangen war eine Forschungsstudie zu interkulturellen Design-Einflüssen aus Schweden.

Das Material lässt sich multifunktional und nachhaltigkeitsorientiert dem natürlichen Kreislauf zurückführen. Das Design – und die Designerin – hat den Anspruch an eine holistisch nachhaltige Lösung und wird sowohl für die Anwendung im Fashion als auch im Automotive Interior Design weitergedacht.

Der Materialica-Award wird im Rahmen der Messe eMove360° Europe vergeben. Sie ist die weltweit größte Fachmesse für die Mobilität 4.0. Die eMove360° Europe präsentiert die komplette Bandbreite zukunftsorientierter und nachhaltiger Mobilitätslösungen, von urbanem & mobilem Design, Material und Prozesslösungen, über automatisiertes Fahren und Elektronik bis hin zu Infotainment.

Das Unternehmen Finzelberg GmbH & Co. KG. ist mit über 150 verschiedene pflanzliche Rohstoffen ein weltweit agierender Hersteller pflanzlicher Wirkstoffe für Arzneimittel und Nahrungsergänzungsmittel. Dabei spielt neben professionellen Abläufen und Hygiene bei der Produktion auch das Management der Berufskleidung der Mitarbeiter:innen eine wichtige Rolle.

Mit über 230 Mitarbeiter:innen, die täglich Arbeitskleidung tragen – auch bei sensiblen Herstellungsprozessen, ist diese nicht nur für geregelte Abläufe, sondern auch für die Einhaltung der hohen Hygienestandards, ein wichtiger Eckpfeiler. Bereits seit über 10 Jahren arbeitet Finzelberg daher mit CWS Workwear, einem Serviceanbieter für Arbeitskleidung zusammen. Eine strenge Trennung von privaten Textilien und Arbeitskleidung sowie ein schneller Zugang zur Kleidung für die Mitarbeiter:innen sind wichtige Voraussetzungen für die Einhaltung aller professionellen Abläufe.

Schranksysteme und professionelle Reinigung
CWS Workwear übernimmt als Dienstleister die Ausstattung der Mitarbeiter:innen sowie sämtliche Services rund um die Arbeitskleidung im Unternehmen. Damit alle Finzelberg-Beschäftigten morgens einen geregelten Zugang zu ihrer Arbeitskleidung haben, installierte CWS Workwear in der unternehmenseigenen Kleiderkammer Schranksysteme. Jeder Mitarbeitende hat sein persönliches Schrankfach, in dem immer frische Berufskleidung verfügbar ist. Die getragene Kleidung wird regelmäßig von CWS hygienisch gewaschen und wieder bis in die einzelnen Schrankfächer angeliefert. Dafür hat CWS ein zertifiziertes Hygienemanagement nach RABC DIN EN 14065 sowie Qualitätsmanagement nach DIN ISO 9001, wodurch die Hygienesicherheit in der Wäscheversorgung sichergestellt wird. Defekte Kleidung wird zudem repariert oder ersetzt, Finzelberg entlastet dadurch insgesamt seine Mitarbeiter:innen und optimiert eigene interne Prozesse.

Mehr Sicherheit
Das Pharmaunternehmen hat seine Teams jeweils mit unterschiedlicher Arbeitskleidung ausgestattet, denn jedes hat andere Hygieneanforderungen. Anhand der verschiedenen Farben können die Mitarbeiter:innen einfach ihren Abteilungen zugeordnet werden, was das Finzelberg Qualitäts- und Sicherheitskonzept unterstützt.

Der Großteil der Beschäftigten in der Produktion trägt eine grüne Fairtrade-Workwear bestehend aus Hose, Arbeitsjacke und Poloshirt. Die Techniker hingegen tragen eine blaue Berufskleidung und wechseln in rote HACCP-Berufskleidung, wenn sie den sensiblen Reinraum betreten. Für den professionellen Team-Auftritt wurden auf den Oberteilen Unternehmenslogo sowie jeweils der Mitarbeitername angebracht. Damit jedes Teil passt, wurde die Kleidung vorab individuell auf jeden Beschäftigten angepasst, zu lange Hosenbeine oder Ärmel gekürzt.

Coisne et Lambert, the group composed of the two companies TDV Industries and Klopman International, a leader in the production and marketing of technical fabrics for the professional clothing and PPE sector, announced the acquisition of TAD Teintures et Apprêts Danjoux.

TAD is specialized in the dyeing and finishing of knitted fabrics and has been in the market for over 30 years. Based in Le Coteau (France), the company has a production site of 9,000 m² and is a major player in the civil and administrative markets for technical textiles for professional clothing, medical, sport and apparel.

With a well equipped R&D laboratory, responsive and innovative sampling and production processes, TAD is ISO 14001 certified to manage its environmental performance.

TAD will extend the group's textile know-how adding expertise in knitwear finishing (dyeing, finishing and functionalities). The complimentary nature of their skillsets will allow the three companies to develop synergies for the benefit of their common and specific markets.

This integration will enable TAD to strengthen its specific business model and its services as a French finishing company over the long term, for the benefit of its historical and future customers.

The group, which is made up of the two companies TDV Industries and Klopman International, achieved a turnover of 185 million euros for the 2021-2022 financial year and employs more than 600 people. It also intends to expand its presence in new markets and geographical areas. Klopman International and TDV Industries want to offer markets more complete, flexible and competitive solutions for professional, civil and military clothing.

Exhibition: Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
May 5 – July 16, 2023

The Costume Institute’s spring 2023 exhibition will examine the work of Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019). Focusing on the designer’s stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019, the show will spotlight the German-born designer’s unique working methodology.

Most of the approximately 150 pieces on display will be accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, which underscore his complex creative process and the collaborative relationships with his premières, or head seamstresses. Lagerfeld’s fluid lines united his designs for Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion.

Launched this September, the new Horizon Europe project CISUTAC will support the transition to a circular and sustainable textile sector. As part of a consortium of 27 partners working on the project, TEXAID will among others support the project with sorting, disassembly and repair trials.

The production and consumption of textile products continue to grow, together with their impact on the environment, due to a lack of reuse, repair and recycling of materials. Quality, durability, and recyclability are often not being set as priorities in the design and manufacturing of clothing (EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, March 2022).  

CISUTAC aims to remove current bottlenecks in order to increase textile circularity in Europe. The objective is to minimise the sector’s total environmental impact by developing sustainable, novel, and inclusive large-scale European value chains.  

The project will cover most parts of the textile sector by working on two material groups representing almost 90% of all textile fibre materials (polyester, and cotton/cellulosic fibres), and focusing on products from three sub-sectors experiencing varying circularity bottlenecks (fashion garments, sports and outdoor goods, and workwear).  

CISUTAC will follow a holistic approach covering the technical, sectoral and socio-economic aspects, and will perform three pilots to demonstrate the feasibility and value of:

• Repair and disassembly
• Sorting (for reuse and recycling)
• Circular garments through fibre-to-fibre recycling and design for circularity

To realise these pilots, the consortium partners will:

• Develop semi-automated workstations
• Analyse the infrastructure and material flows
• Digitally enhance sorting operations (for reuse and recycling)
• Raise awareness among the consumers and the textile industry

As part of the CISUTAC consortium, TEXAID, will conduct different trials of sorting, repair, and disassembly, and be active in the LCA and Standardisation work packages.

Pincroft, UK’s largest textile dyer, printer and finisher, developed a new camouflage pattern for the Dutch Ministry of Defence as part of their Defensie Materieel Organisatie’s (DMO) ‘STRONG’ programme that aims to supply combat clothing and equipment to all military personnel part of the Royal Netherlands Navy, Army, Air Force and Marechaussee.

The new fabric and camouflage pattern boast the new Netherlands Fractal Pattern and will be used in at least 480,000 sets of uniforms for soldiers worldwide. The camouflage pattern is being manufactured in a green or woodland style for the Army, Air Force, Marechaussee and Marines, while the Navy receives a blue or marine style design. Pincroft followed the guidelines of the new Netherlands Fractal Pattern (NFP) to create an eight-colour camouflage design that provides high levels of disruption to give soldiers better concealment when needed.

The fabric was created by global workwear textile manufacturer, Carrington Textiles, specifically following the Dutch MoD’s requirements on comfort and protection. The result is a lightweight yet durable textile of 210gsm with a composition of 50% cotton, 50% high tenacity nylon and Ripstop for added strength.

The high cotton content of the fabric creates a uniform that’s comfortable to wear due to its softness to the touch, and breathability, as well as providing moisture wicking properties, key elements for the tough conditions soldiers work in. The addition of high tenacity nylon to the fabric, provides added strength and durability, with the Ripstop properties of the fabric offering tear resistance.

Around 480,000 trousers and jackets will be delivered to officers from the Royal Netherlands Navy, Army, Air Force and Marechaussee, during a uniform roll out part of the Dutch MoD’s ‘STRONG’ programme that aims to equip the armed forces in the next 18 months with versatile uniforms and equipment that are adjustable according to the assignment. The pack also includes a raincoat, combat shirt and baseball cap.

SHIMA SEIKI announces a sales promotion package for the apparel industry together with KDDI, Linking 3D fashion design with cross-reality― realizing digital catalogs, VR showrooms and new customer experience allowing 360-degree viewing without actual samples

Leading fashion technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan together with telecommunications company KDDI Corporation of Tokyo, Japan launched "XR Mannequin for APEXFiz," a sales promotion package that links SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz design software for the apparel industry with KDDI's XR (cross-reality) technology.

XR Mannequin for APEXFiz will be offered to the apparel industry. Using an XR Mannequin that enables viewers to check product images from any angle in 360 degrees on various devices, XR Mannequin for APEXFiz enables digital catalogues with 3D virtual sample image data of garments designed on APEXFiz design software, 360-degree VR showrooms, as well as digitally extended stores. It also realizes virtual proposals at exhibitions, showroom-style stores with no inventory, and user-friendly purchase experience on e-commerce sites, and more. It also allows users to reduce excess stock at stores and create new sales opportunities.

Eventually, by adding movement to models wearing Virtual Samples and rendering them on a cloud server, customers will be able to view high-resolution virtual fashion shows on their smartphones and other devices.

 Until now, the apparel industry has been making actual product samples in each of the planning and design stages of production. This process not only takes an enormous amount of time and cost, but generates waste of raw materials including fabric that require disposal. At the retail stage, stores also needed to have various sizes and colors in stock to address a wide range of customer preferences, resulting in excess inventory.

With SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz, designs can be evaluated without making actual samples, minimizing resources spent on sample production as well as lead time, enabling environmentally-friendly manufacturing.

In May 2022, KDDI developed a high-resolution XR mannequin for apparel sales, with support from Google Cloud. It enables various devices such as store signages and smartphones to check products from any angle in 360 degrees, enabling stores to sell products without maintaining inventory.

SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI combines APEXFiz and XR Mannequin to start providing XR Mannequin for APEXFiz. This brings DX solutions to all stages in the supply chain for the apparel industry, from planning and design to sample making, production, distribution, and retail sales. SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI will continue to create services together that link each other's products, to bring about a sustainable society by reducing excess stock, and providing a customer experience that gives peace of mind when purchasing products.