From the Sector

There are only a few days left until the SEEK community comes together at the Station Berlin on 16 and 17 January 2024. The team around SEEK's Show Director Marie-Luise Patzelt is looking forward to welcome around 200 brands, speakers such as Jessica Arnold (Adidas), Sebastian Haufellner (Lodenfrey), Yannik Dietrich (Breuninger), Martyna Zastawna (Vogue), numerous game changers from the sustainability scene and new fashion and lifestyle inspirations.

The new alliance between SEEK and UNION Showroom presents its joint project "THE JUNCTION" for the first time. A selection of high-quality brands with a focus on craftsmanship, origin, and history will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, includes brands such as A New Sweden, Bruné, Freenote Cloth, Fullcount, Godspeed, Good-Alls, Hidden Aces, Nudie Jeans, Oodoo Boots, Paltò, Viberg, White Sand, and Tenue. THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

The SEEK brand portfolio currently encompasses almost 200 brands, including 46 % conscious brands and 45 % newcomers. Buyers and visitors can look forward to brands such as Aer Scents, Bask in the Sun, Chrome, Danner, Dedicated, Givn Berlin, Hestra, Kangaroos, Novesta, Palladium, Pyrenex, Santa Cruz Skateboards, Welter Shelter and Woodbird. Newcomers include Afoam Stories, A Good Company, Dale Of Norway, Good Wool Story, Heimat, Hen's Teeth, Open Era, Pompeii, The Jogg Concept, Wax London and many more.

The SEEK Conscious Club forms the heart of the January edition and is developing into the "place to be" of the sustainability scene. Purpose-driven business practices, systematic sustainability and practical standards will become even more crucial in 2024. With this in mind, the SEEK team introduces the innovative "360 Sustainability Validation" with its partners IVALO.COM and studio MM04. The "360 Sustainability Validation" - powered by IVALO.COM and consulted by studio MM04. Customers can see brand sustainability in 8 different sustainability categories. 360 is a commercial production value chain analysis tool that provides results that are comparable. The aim is to make the complex sub-areas of sustainability in fashion more transparent and comparable. The SEEK team has been working with the sustainability experts at studio MM04 for a long time and is delighted to be part of this important step towards standardising sustainability evaluations. Participating brands in this years Conscious Club are Basic Apparel, Bread & Boxers, Cabaia, Camper, Dawn Denim, Flamingos Life, Isaora, Jan'n June, Kings of Indigo, Rita Row, Secrid, Stapf and Thinking Mu, amongst others.

Together with renowned experts, SEEK is once again presenting a content programme with live interviews, talks, panels and community classes. Speakers such as Carl Tillessen (Deutsches Mode Institut), Steffen Liese (JD Sports), Stephan Huber (Style in Progress), Penny Whitelaw (Good on You), Mimi Sewalski (Avocadostore), Valerie Vogel (Engelhorn), Cheryll Mühlen (J'N'C), Rune Orloff (Pool), Sabine Rogg (Trendbüro), Anthony Lui (A New Sweden), Patrick Bergmann (Famefact), Florian Müller (Müller PR & Consulting) will share their insights exclusively with the SEEK community. The diverse programme includes themes such as pricing and profiling success strategies in times of disruption, a "no-bullshit" guide for brand spaces, the most important LinkedIn and consumer trends for 2024, new chances for recruiting and leadership as well as mental health in fashion.

SEEK is not only presenting the first edition of its new chapter in January 2024 but is also welcoming a new partner on board: UNION Showroom. The new alliance from Berlin combines the strengths of both formats intending to offer buyers from all over the world an even more comprehensive experience in Germany's fashion capital.

With united forces, the two teams led by Marie-Luise Patzelt (SEEK) and Felix Engelmann (UNION Showroom) are showcasing their new project "THE JUNCTION". A selection of brands will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, including Nudie Jeans, Tenue, Viberg, White Sand, Paltò, Freenote Cloth, Ootoo Boots and A New Sweden. At the same time, the lofts are the transition to the UNION Showroom, taking place at the neighbouring Kühlhaus. The collaboration embodies the idea of a cooperative platform that enables buyers to discover the best collections from both platforms.

THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)

adidas launches the iconic three-stripes brand on Roblox, a global, immersive platform for communication and connection. The experience kicks off with pop-up stores, carrying officially licensed digital clothing and bespoke outfits for the platform (UGC). These digital wearables and accessories will begin appearing across a range of Roblox experiences, fusing physical and virtual realms to bring adidas’ famous designs to a new generation of digital trendsetters and innovators. Roblox users can now dress up their avatars with some of adidas most iconic pieces such as the firebird tracksuits. All items will be available on the Roblox Marketplace, ensuring accessibility and convenience for Roblox users.

As part of the diverse range of UGC collections immediately on offer, adidas has joined forces with Roblox creator Rush Bogin (Rush X) to craft a range of limited-edition UGC that will be available on a first-come-first-served basis. Following the initial release, additional designs for both adidas and adidas x Rush X collaboration products will be introduced, with new drops scheduled weekly throughout December. The adidas x Rush X collection will be available alongside a wide range of iconic looks that will be brought to new life from the brand’s existing and upcoming collections.

Self-expression, creativity, and user experience are at the heart of this of adidas entry into Roblox. adidas has created a range of apparel that embodies the playful, imaginative, and visually bold spirit of Roblox, while staying true to adidas’ contemporary and performance-driven character. The brand’s venture into the digital realm will also create connections with new audiences, while offering long-standing adidas fans the chance to collect and style official UGC on Roblox, through new avatar customization options.

Millions of Roblox users now have the chance to discover the first adidas pop-up shops in some of their favorite experiences, with more stores being regularly introduced in the following weeks. Users can explore the first of these pop-up shops in the following experiences: Princess Dress Up Obby, Cotton Obby!, Seaboard City, Theme Park HeideLand, Noob Train, Dream Island, and Ultimate Ragdoll Playground.

Stocking an array of UGC apparel and accessories inspired by the brand’s SS24 physical collection, there is something to fit each users’ tastes and love for the three-stripes brand. Exemplifying the bold, stylish, and creative aesthetic adidas is celebrated for, the product range includes designs that echo adidas’ physical-world apparel, as well as eclectic, offbeat merchandise crafted specifically with Roblox’s exciting virtual environment in mind. The adidas packs will be refreshed and updated on a regular basis, with new UGC added each week.

To meet future demands on the amount of textile waste which needs to be collected and sorted, as well as the demand on recycling feedstock, it is necessary to match the demand and need for sorting of waste in Europe and create cost efficiency sorting capacities with larger scale and automation are necessary.

In an online session “Redefining Textile Waste Sorting: Impulses and findings for the future of next-gen sorting facilities” Texaid and partners talk about the current state of development and the challenges for the future.  Anna Pehrsson (Texaid), Gesine Köppe (ITA Augsburg GmbH) and partners present the results of a Technology Assessment conducted within The Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock Project (initiated by TEXAID within the ReHubs initiative) to assess the best available sorting techniques and process.

Details:  
December 4th 2023
12:30-13:30pm   
Online
For registration follow the link.

HeiQ introduces a 100% biobased and long-lasting cosmetic finishing technology for textiles to the market. The newest addition to the HeiQ portfolio harnesses the power of active probiotics and selected prebiotics to enhance the skin microbiome, turning the human’s largest organ into the best-looking one.

HeiQ Skin Care is a synbiotic textile finish aimed at providing a balanced microbiome for glowing skin, even after repeated use and washing of textiles. Unlike conventional products, HeiQ Skin Care utilizes slow-release prebiotics and probiotics seamlessly integrated into a biobased textile matrix, enriching the skin's microbiome diversity, and offering long-lasting cosmetic benefits.

The synergistic combination of prebiotics and probiotics, known as synbiotics, delivers a soothing cosmetic skin treatment while relaxing, working, or sleeping. Probiotics not only restore and improve the skin's natural balance but also enhance its self-repair capabilities. Synbiotics promote skin renewal, rebalancing, and improved appearance, reducing the signs of aging and establishing a favorable environment for the skin's natural repair mechanisms.

A second skin that takes care of the first
The skin, the largest organ in human body, is home to a diverse community of microorganisms called the skin microbiome. It plays a crucial role in maintaining good skin condition, acting as a protective barrier against harmful agents. However, various factors, such as hormones, diet, smoking, environmental exposures, and excessive UV radiation, can disrupt its balance, leading to skin conditions like rashes, acne, psoriasis, rosacea, skin irritation, redness, eczema, and odor. Maintaining a balanced skin microbiome is essential for preserving skin integrity.

HeiQ Skin Care is suitable for all textile fibers, both natural and synthetic, and can be applied to all textile items that come in direct contact with the skin. This versatility makes it an ideal choice for daily use- at work, during sports, leisure activities, or as bedding items like bed sheets and pillows.

Intensive wear trials conducted during the development stage have proven the consistent release of synbiotics (prebiotics and probiotics) onto the skin, creating conditions to foster a well-balanced microbiome.

PREMIUM Berlin will not take place in January 2024. The critical developments in the industry, and the changed global economic situation are presenting big trade fair formats with a new dimension of challenges.
 
PREMIUM, which started as an underdog in 2003 and established an entire segment in the industry, has developed into an icon. The original concepts and approaches have shaped the fashion world. However, as is so often the case in the fast-moving fashion industry, even outstanding success stories come to an end. The management team led by Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz recognised this change and paved the way for SEEK, which was launched in 2009.
 
The entire industry has changed significantly in recent years and is still undergoing a transformation. It has become clear that large trade fairs are no longer in keeping with the times. Instead, boutique trade fairs and specialised events are trending. Events like SEEK enable a closer connection between exhibitors, visitors and the community, which is of great economic and social importance in today's world.

SEEK, which has focussed on its core segment in recent years and serves the streetwear segment, will continue its mission with its loyal network. The platform has not only established itself for forward-thinking brands, but is also the proud organiser of the "Conscious Club", the largest hub on the topic of sustainability in the industry. Here, visitors and exhibitors will not only find the most important trends and ideas in the field of sustainability, but also the most exciting new collections from the pioneers who are responsible for the positive changes.
 
With a clear focus on product quality, community building and strong values such as honesty, creativity, and resilience, SEEK is able to meet the needs of its target audience. So far, the feedback from the committed brands has been consistently positive. The SEEK team is pleased to be able to continue to rely on this commitment and build on it. Around 200 brands are expected again in January.
Berlin will continue to be a place where new trends are set, creative collaborations are formed, and business is done.
 
Although the decision to close PREMIUM is the end of an era, it does not mean the end for the fashion world, but rather opens new doors and enables new opportunities. SEEK is ready to shape this change with like-minded partners and continue to make a significant contribution to the development of the industry.

Making outdoor sports accessible to as many people as possible since 1976 through quality, innovative gear, powerhouse sporting goods brand Decathlon has launched the first product of its long-term partnership with CELLIANT® infrared technology from Hologenix® – Adult Ski Socks. They are introduced in its Wedze range of ski and snowboarding socks (“wed’ze” means ‘“a small turn on the snow” in the Savoyard dialect in the Alps where this brand is headquartered).  

Decathlon was attracted to CELLIANT’s ability to convert body heat into infrared energy, improving local circulation and cellular oxygenation to support stronger performance and faster recovery. Skiers who often suffer from muscle fatigue in the calf area will appreciate the infrared infusion and light compression attributes that were specifically chosen with this in mind. The sock was also thoughtfully designed for minimum thickness, allowing for a comfortable fit within the ski boot, without sacrificing warmth or durability. Anti-friction thread on the sole and toes helps limit irritation, and seams are intentionally positioned to eliminate discomfort. The socks are offered in a Asphalt Blue color in a variety of sizes, both online and in retail stores worldwide.

The Fashion for Good Museum has opened its doors for the new pop-up exhibition News From The Future. As part of a new Educational Programme and Toolkit - developed by the Fashion for Good Museum team - a selection of up-and-coming talents composed of Dutch fashion students and emerging designers have been asked to respond to the question: “what could the future of fashion look like?” Their answers are revealed in the exhibition in the form of garments, videos, installations and more. This is a future-forward exhibition where you can explore different fashion perspectives beyond the climate crisis, giving hope and, perhaps, a reality check.

Post-consumer waste, overconsumption and the pollution of our waterways are just some of the industry issues we are currently facing. Mirrored against rising temperatures and increasingly unstable weather conditions, the global shift as a result of climate change is inevitable. What does this mean for our future generations? How do we move forward from here? This raises one central question: What does the future of fashion look like?

News From The Future, the new exhibition at the Fashion for Good Museum, invited Dutch students and new creative voices to reflect on these questions. The emphasis on emerging talent is a common thread throughout the exhibition’s and the look and feel is designed by upcoming graphic designer Sara Biatchinyi.

Participating artists and designers include students from art and fashion schools across the Netherlands from the University of the Arts Utrecht, Zadkine MBO, MBO Rijnland and Saxion College. The students’ work was chosen after they participated in the educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton”. This programme was developed by the Fashion for Good Museum’s Curator and Education Coordinator Alyxandra Westwood and Education and Fashion consultant in sustainability Yophi Ignacia founder of The Future Mode, in collaboration with the aforementioned schools.

To further enhance these narratives, and to facilitate and promote a space for connection between emerging talent, the Museum invited Current Obsession Magazine - an interdisciplinary jewellery platform and magazine - to co-curate an installation and reflect on the future of jewellery. Over the course of the exhibition the Fashion for Good Museum will come to life hosting an art auction, panel discussion and a weekly updated installation, showcasing emerging talent. All of these elements together will collectively address the sustainable and regenerative design practices in both the Fashion and Jewellery industries.

Designer Kevin Paraiso (Paris/Benin) showcases a creative workshop in the museum, featuring looks from his Cosmic Summer .Dolkrey collection, which was presented during Spring/Summer ‘23 of Paris Fashion Week. “Cosmic Summer reflects on our desire to bring vibrant colours and a sense of uplift to the fashion of today and tomorrow. A cosmic news from the future.” A hopeful collection, with future-forward elements seamlessly integrated from the use of deadstock, circular materials and an on-demand tailoring business model with inhouse printing - presents a positive outlook.

Launching “Classroom of the Future: The Stories Behind Cotton”
The educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton'' has been developed into an open source toolkit for MBO and HBO education. The toolkit is live and available to download from the Fashion for Good Museum website as of the 30th of November 2023.

It consists of a set of six lessons all exploring the various aspects of cotton with specific emphasis on people and planet. The toolkit brings together different forms of interactive tools for the classroom: videos, podcasts,  lesson plans and workshops. The content shows the perspective of local and international makers and innovators working to create a better and fairer fashion system.
The programme was part of and based on the previous museum exhibition Knowing Cotton Otherwise (2022-’23) and invited students to reflect on the  exhibition themes - water, transparency, agriculture, climate, processing, origin, labour/forced labour and end-of-use - through their own perspective. The educational methodology and goals within the programme were developed to level the field between MBO and HBO students, reflecting a more realistic image of what it's like working in the professional field. During the programme students worked together equally, challenging the segregated Dutch education system and aiming for new results.

News From The Future is open to the public at the Fashion for Good Museum at Rokin 102 in Amsterdam.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”