From the Sector

HeiQ takes advantage of its presence at ISPO Munich 2022, 28th-30th of November, to launch HeiQ Mint, the new proprietary odor control technology. It is plant-based and designed to make textiles smell fresh even if we use them repeatedly, avoiding the need for frequent washes, thus enabling to save water and energy.

HeiQ Fresh MNT-01, under the HeiQ Mint product family, jointly developed with Patagonia, addresses body odors on textiles and regenerates at every wash, with superior efficiency and durability that meets most end-use performance requirements, while keeping all the fabric properties such as breathability, hand feel, or wicking. This textile technology is OEKO-TEX® suited, bluesign approved, and ZDHC compliant, with a USDA bio-preferred certification in progress.

The product development tests were highly demanding, with HeiQ Mint standing out in comparison to the other two tested solutions. According to Laura Hoch, Patagonia’s Materials Innovation Engineer, “out of all the anti-odor technologies we tested, HeiQ Mint provided the highest odor control performance, with the added benefit of being plant-based. This innovation enables Patagonia to deliver our customers high-performing products made with the best available chemistry.”

Another advantage of HeiQ Mint is the ability to be applied and marketed worldwide, without the need for biocidal declaration on product labels, since it is based on a blend of essential mint oils and naturally derived deodorizing ingredients. HeiQ Mint is just Fresh by Nature.

It is ideal for next-to-skin products like sports apparel, underwear, linings, casual and business wear but also home textiles such as bed linen, pillow fabrics, or mattress textiles, both on cellulosic and synthetic fibers.

• ESD protection in harsh environments:
• Polymer-coated chemical-resistant fabrics and fireproof special textiles with expanded electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety function have been developed.
• Graphene nanotubes used as an electrostatic dissipative material make it possible to add ESD protection without compromising resistance to aggressive environments.
• Efficient working loadings starting from 0.06% are sufficient for stable anti-static properties fully compliant with safety standards and position graphene nanotubes far ahead of other conductive materials.

Protective clothing, upholstery, and industrial fabrics that experience harsh conditions require advanced performance. Depending on the final application, specialty textiles can be augmented with flame retardancy, durability, chemical protection, and other properties. Additionally, ESD protection is obligatory in the chemical, rescue, mining, oil & gas, automotive manufacturing, and many other industries that are subject to safety regulations.
 
In applications where multifunctionality of textile is required, graphene nanotubes overcome the limitations of other conductive materials such as unstable anti-static properties; degradation of strength, or chemical or fire resistance; complicated manufacturing processes; dusty production; carbon contamination on the material’s surface; or limited color options. Recent developments show that graphene nanotubes provide ESD protection to textiles in full compliance with safety standards and without degrading the textile’s resistance to harsh environments, greatly enhancing the value of textiles.
 
One such example is textiles coated with fluoroelastomer (a polymer that is highly resistant to chemicals) augmented with graphene nanotubes from OCSiAl. Nanotubes provide the material with surface resistivity of 10^6–10^8 Ω/sq compliant with EN, ISO, and ATEX standards for personal protective equipment. This new technology opens the door for the fabric to be used in high-level protective suits, combining exceptional protection from chemicals with electrostatic discharge protection.
 
Another example is how graphene nanotube technology is being acknowledged as a replacement for metal yarns in fireproof and anti-static textiles, protecting against sparks, splashes of molten metal, high temperatures, and the risk of sudden electrostatic discharge. While metal yarns require a specific knitting process and storage conditions, incorporating nanotubes in a fabric does not require any changes in the manufacturing process as the water-based dispersion is introduced into the fabric at the fluoro-organic treatment stage. The fabric with OCSiAl’s graphene nanotubes has been proven to maintain the pre-set level of ESD protection (surface resistance of 10^7 Ω) after numerous washes.
 
Permanent and stable electrical conductivity, facilitated by graphene nanotubes, is not only a matter of safety but brings additional value in augmenting dust-repellent properties and touchscreen compatibility for comfort and time savings. At the same time, the ultralow nanotube concentrations result in maintained manufacturing processes and mechanical properties, and improve product aesthetics by making it possible to use a wide range of colors. Altogether, these benefits allow textile manufacturers to create next-generation special textiles with expanded functionality.

Die Mitglieder des Hutverbandes GDH e.V. nominieren jedes Jahr seit 2013 eine prominente Persönlichkeit zum "Hutträger des Jahres". Wer wird es 2022 werden? Bisher haben die Mitglieder und Partner des Hutverband GDH e.V. neun prominente Persönlichkeiten für ihre Hutleidenschaft mit einem individuell designten, goldenen Hut-Award zum "Hutträger des Jahres" prämiert:

• Prof. Dr. Harald Lech Hutträger 2021, Wissenschaftler, Fernsehmoderator
• Horst Lichter Hutträger 2020, Koch, Fernsehmoderator
• Johannes Oerding Hutträger 2019, Singer-/Songwriter
• Massimo Sinató Hutträger 2018, Profi-Tänzer und Entertainer
• Gregor Meyle Hutträger 2017, Singer-/Songwriter
• Jan Josef Liefers Hutträger 2016, Schauspieler (u.a. Tatort Münster), Musiker
• Roger Cicero Hutträger 2015, Musiker, leider 2016 verstorben
• Andreas Hoppe Hutträger 2014, Schauspieler (u.a. Tatort Ludwigshafen)
• Nadine Angerer Hutträgerin 2013, Frauenfußball-Nationalmannschaft

Im Rahmen des "Internationalen Tag des Hutes" am 25. November wird vom Hutverband der "Hutträger des Jahres 2022" bekannt gegeben. Vorher wird mit Plakaten und Pressearbeit bei den GDH-Mitgliedern neugierig gemacht – alles inhabergeführte Hutfachgeschäfte mit langer Tradition – das älteste Geschäft wurde vor 488 Jahren in Haag gegründet. In ganz Deutschland wird in rund 90 Geschäften ein Event mit Kunden gefeiert. Dann stehen Hut und Mütze im Mittelpunkt.

Confirming its commitment as a global sustainability player.

The Sharm el-Sheikh Climate Change Conference (COP 27) has turned out to be one of the most closely watched events in recent years, an opportunity to bring together leaders from around the world in the face of a pressing and undeniable need

ISKO had the honor to be the only manufacturer representative of the fashion industry at the United Nations event by taking part on 12 November at the focus talk “Circular Systems for a Net Positive Fashion Industry” organized by the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and the UNEP (United Nations Environment Programme).

Elena Faleschini, Senior Manager Brand Partnerships ISKO, and the other speakers (Federica Marchionni, Lily Cole, Miranda Schnitger, Samata Pattinson, Holly Syrett and Tarek Alkhoury) have agreed that:

• Harmonization and transparency in goals are critical.
• Vertical and horizontal partnerships are key.
• Investment in innovation is vital to a circular business model in fashion.
• Fashion must be part of the discussions around climate change and net positive.

The Japanese textile brand ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance continues its eco-high tech path and joins ISPO, the influential fashion and textile fair dedicated to sportwear and athleisure-wear, as part of an Asahi Kasei space within the ISPO Brandnew area, presenting its AW 2024/2025 & SS2024 collections, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

2022 is a special time for Asahi Kasei as it celebrates its 100th anniversary. This year at ISPO Munich (28-30^th November), Asahi Kasei Group present its innovation world featuring three of its brands: ECOSENSOR™, ROICA™ and RespiGard™.
 
ECOSENSOR™ presents 47 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 3 items for INNERWEAR, 1 for OUTERWEAR, 13 for SPORT KNIT and 30 for SPORT WOVENS.

New this season is the application of the RespiGard™ by Polypore unique membrane designed for outdoor apparel. Its innovative pore structure is too small for water droplets to penetrate but features high porosity that allows for airflow and moisture evaporation.

In order to show at best the performances and possible applications of the fabrics made with RespiGard™, ECOSENSOR™ will feature at its ISPO space an ad hoc created outfit by the outerwear brand.

Furthermore, the majority of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable ingredients which are certified by international certifications such as GRS and RCS through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.  100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials. Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for performancewear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) as a leading specialist in woven, knitted and non-woven interlinings and thermal insulation, presents sustainable solutions for sportswear and related product segments of all kinds in Munich.

Trade show visitors will experience a wide range of innovative and sustainable interlinings for active sports outfits, stretch interlinings for yoga wear, Pilates & Co, and thermal insulations that combine perfect outdoor wearing comfort with high warmth retention. With comfortemp® brand thermal insulations and the Active Range, Freudenberg presents a complete package for outdoor and sportswear for winter sports: thermal insulations, interlinings, tapes, lining fabrics and adhesive solutions.

The independent jury has nominated the 100 percent biodegradable thermal insulation comfortemp® nature Lyocell HO 60x, made from Lyocell regenerated fibers, for the Textrends Award fall/winter 2024/25 season. The award is given exclusively to innovative products that are groundbreaking for the development of the textile industry. comfortemp® nature Lyocell HO 60x has a variety of extraordinary performance characteristics as a high warmth retention, bacteria inhibiting and fast drying, furthermore water repellent. High wearing comfort and the assurance of a perfect moisture balance characterize the volume fleece as ideal for the application in sportswear.

Freudenberg is presenting its entire European and global product portfolio from its "House of Sustainability" at ISPO. The "House of Sustainability" supports Freudenberg in minimizing its ecological footprint and maximizing its ecological handprint. For this purpose, the company's own manufacturing processes are designed to minimize the impact on the environment. In addition, products are developed to help customers produce more sustainably.

Swenja Speidel hat zum 01.06.2022 einen Sitz in der Geschäftsleitung der Speidel GmbH übernommen. Sie verantwortet die Bereiche Marketing, Produkt Management, Design und eCommerce. Mit ihr übernimmt die dritte Generation der Gründerfamilie Verantwortung für das Unternehmen.

Alexander Beck, seit 15 Jahren Teil des Speidel Teams, übernimmt in der neuen Geschäftsführung die Bereiche Produktion, technische Produktentwicklung und Beschaffung. Günter Speidel, der das Unternehmen über Jahrzehnte erfolgreich geführt hat, wird weiterhin als Geschäftsführer den Vertrieb sowie die Bereiche IT und Finanzen verantworten.

Swenja Speidel kennt das Unternehmen seit sie als Schülerin während der Ferien dort gearbeitet hat. 2011 ist sie fest eingestiegen, zunächst als Teil des Vertriebsteams. Swenja Speidel: „Der Einstieg über den Vertrieb war ideal, um unser Unternehmen, unsere Handelspartner und Kund:innen intensiv kennen zu lernen. In dieser Phase habe ich meine Leidenschaft für das Marketing entdeckt. Ich bin sehr dankbar dafür, wie schnell ich die Gelegenheit bekommen habe, in diesem Bereich Verantwortung zu übernehmen und als Marken- und Produktmanagerin auszubauen. Die Marke und das Unternehmen weiterzuentwickeln sehe ich auch in der neuen Position als meine zentrale Aufgabe.“

Bereits seit 1885 gibt es Deutschlands älteste Fahrrad-Marke Diamant. Täglich werden bis zu 1.500 der Fahrräder und E-Bikes in den Werken nähe Chemnitz produziert. Ob Montage, Logistik oder Qualität – die rund 450 Mitarbeiter:innen werden seit über 10 Jahren von dem Dienstleister CWS Workwear mit Arbeitskleidung versorgt.

Damit jedes Team in der großen Produktionshalle klar erkennbar ist, wurden die Mitarbeiter:innen der einzelnen Bereiche mit Poloshirts oder T-Shirts in einer speziellen Farbe ausgestattet. Auch Führungskräften und Azubis ist einer der insgesamt sieben Farbtöne zugeordnet. „Jedes Shirt trägt unser Diamant-Logo und den Mitarbeiternamen, sodass man jeden Kollegen immer direkt persönlich ansprechen kann“, erklärt Christin Seifert, Teamleiterin Recruiting bei Diamant Fahrradwerke GmbH, die Logik hinter dem Farbcoding.

Die individualisierte Arbeitskleidung unterstützt gleichzeitig den Zusammenhalt im Team und die Identifikation mit dem Arbeitgeber. Gleichzeitig die Mitarbeiter:innen bei ihrer Arbeitskleidung entlastet. Denn um die Bereitstellung und Pflege der Kleidung müssen sie sich nicht kümmern, das übernimmt der Dienstleister CWS.

Damit alle Abläufe so geregelt und einfach wie möglich gehalten werden, wurden von CWS Schranksysteme in den Umkleiden im Unternehmen aufgestellt. Jeder Mitarbeitende hat dort ein eigenes Fach, in dem er frische Arbeitskleidung vorfindet. Diese wird von CWS Workwear gewaschen und durch einen Servicefahrer bis ins Schrankfach angeliefert.

Durch gezielte und ressourcenschonende Waschprozesse in den Wäschereien hält die langlebige CWS Kleidung länger als herkömmliche Arbeitskleidung und muss seltener ausgetauscht werden. Wenn die Kleidung bei Eingang in die CWS Wäscherei verschlissen ist, wird sie durch neue ersetzt. Mit der Repair App können Mitarbeiter:innen zudem per Handy einen Reparaturwunsch an CWS senden kann, z.B. bei losen Knöpfen.

Ob bei neuen Mitarbeiter:innen oder Fluktuation, können die Verantwortlichen bei Diamant benötigte Teile jederzeit hinzubuchen oder abmelden, damit immer alle Beschäftigten optimal ausgestattet sind.

Seit dem 5. November 2022 hat das Streetwearlabel Live Fast Die Young – kurz LFDY – wieder auf der Ehrenstraße in Köln geöffnet. Die Brand ist in insgesamt fünf deutschen Metropolen vertreten: Düsseldorf, Berlin, München, Hamburg und Köln. Dazu kommt ein internationaler Standort in Amsterdam – weitere sollen folgen.

Auf 100 m² präsentiert LFDY den Besucher:innen Streetwear, die einen förmlich bis in den hinteren Teil des Stores zieht, wo sich die Umkleiden und der in jedem Store erkennbare „Aktenschrank“ für die Kollektions-Pieces befinden. Wie in den anderen Stores setzt die Brand in Köln auf die Zusammenarbeit mit den Architekten von Schwitzke & Partner, die hier ihr bewährtes Showroom-Konzept umgesetzt haben. Im gesamten Store haben Schwitzke & Partner ein monochromes all-beige Gestaltungskonzept realisiert – selbst die teilweise offengelegten Steinwände sind hell getüncht und kontrastieren zu der glatten, hellen Raumhülle, ohne dabei den einheitlichen Look des Stores aufzubrechen. Die Möblierung ist minimalistisch-pur gehalten und definiert sich durch einen Mix aus neuen Warenträgern, einem neu entwickelten Lichtsystem und ausgesuchten Vintage-Möbeln.

• Currency-neutral sales up 4%, reflecting continued double-digit growth outside Greater China
• Gross margin down 1.0pp to 49.1% as price increases were more than offset by increased supply chain costs, higher discounting, and an unfavorable market mix
• Operating profit of € 564 million reflecting an operating margin of 8.8%
• Net income from continuing operations of € 66 million negatively impacted by several one-off costs totaling almost € 300 million as well as extraordinary tax effects in Q3

“The market environment shifted at the beginning of September as consumer demand in Western markets slowed and traffic trends in Greater China further deteriorated. As a result, we saw a significant inventory buildup across the industry, leading to higher promotional activity during the remainder of the year which will increasingly weigh on our earnings,” said adidas CFO Harm Ohlmeyer. “We are encouraged by the enthusiasm for the upcoming FIFA World Cup which is already noticeable in our Football revenue growth. And in North America we are gearing up for an exciting upcoming basketball launch.”

In the third quarter, adidas’ currency-neutral revenues increased 4%. While the company experienced high-single-digit top-line growth during the first two months of the period, deteriorating traffic trends in Greater China as well as slowing consumer demand in major Western markets weighed on the revenue development in September. In addition, the company’s decision to suspend its own operations in Russia at the end of Q1 significantly reduced revenues by more than € 100 million during the third quarter, particularly impacting the company’s direct-to-consumer (DTC) business. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 11% to € 6.408 billion in the third quarter (2021: € 5.752 billion).

From a category perspective, revenue growth was the highest in adidas’ strategic growth categories Football and Running, both growing at strong double-digit rates. In Football, the jersey launches ahead of the FIFA World Cup 2022 fueled consumer excitement prior to the tournament. Revenues in Running were driven by the latest iterations of adidas’ successful running franchises, including Adizero and Supernova, which both grew more than 50% during the quarter. On the Lifestyle side, the further scaling of the successful Forum and Ozweego franchises led to strong double-digit growth for both product families. At the same time, additional highly limited drops as part of the Gucci and Balenciaga partnerships continued to spark excitement around the adidas brand.   

From a regional perspective, revenue growth was driven by the company’s Western markets and APAC, which combined continued to grow at a double-digit rate (+12%). In EMEA, revenues grew 7% despite the loss of revenue in Russia/CIS of more than € 100 million. Revenues in North America increased 8% during the quarter driven by a double-digit increase in the company’s DTC channel. In APAC and Latin America, revenue growth accelerated compared to Q2, reaching 15% and 51% respectively, year-on-year. In contrast, the company’s top-line development in Greater China continues to be severely impacted by the challenging market environment, mainly related to the ongoing covid-19-related restrictions. While the company’s own retail revenues in Greater China increased 7% in the third quarter reflecting a robust sell-out, the significant product takebacks reduced the company’s sell-in and resulted in a revenue decline of 27% for the market as a whole during the three-month period.  

Strong bottom-line improvement in 2023  
In 2023, the company expects the non-recurrence of the one-off costs of around € 500 million occurred in 2022 to have a positive impact on the net income development in the same magnitude. In addition, in light of the challenging market environment, adidas established a business improvement program to safeguard the company’s profitability in 2023. As part of this program the company has launched several initiatives to mitigate the significant cost increases resulting from the inflationary pressure across the company’s value chain as well as unfavorable currency movements. In total, the program, which will result in one-off costs of around € 50 million in the fourth quarter of 2022, is expected to compensate cost headwinds of up to € 500 million in 2023. In addition, it is expected to deliver a positive profit contribution of around € 200 million next year.