From the Sector

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

Masks yes, but with comfort, safety and also style: Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip launch masks with a fashion touch with the premium stretch fiber ROICA™
 
Big companies are updating their productions with high-performance and high technical characteristics masks, result of their historical experience and thanks to an exceptional partner in common: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. And the solidarity race continues to donate them to hospitals and to the Red Cross
 
Forced to keep most of the face covered and often for a long time during the day, solutions that are above all performing and comfortable become increasingly necessary.

And solutions that are also a manifestation of our personality, which remains hidden and entrusted to the mere expression of the eyes. Walking on the streets we sometimes even don’t even recognize each other, since we are so hidden; and the desire to minimize the situation often takes over, together with that desire to make us recognizable, to possess and express an identity anyway. For fans of escaping homologation (now more than ever mandatory and for this reason even more difficult) “rescue comes” - and this is the case to say it - from illuminated companies who have thought about creative solutions for those with masks has to do all day, at home, at work, during sports and in leisure time. To feel more comfortable, there are many proposals: more “street style” for sports addicted and young people - inside and outside -, more elegant and sophisticated for women.

Textiles companies have joined the fight against Covid-19 engaging a strong and decisive personal and productive battle, which has seen many of them transform and convert their production units for the production of masks and gowns intended for medical personnel and the community.

Some of the most established excellences of the textile sector as Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip have made use of the precious collaboration of ROICA™, the premium stretch fiber by Asahi Kasei. ROICA™ is the innovative and smart premium ingredient chosen by these companies to guarantee even more comfort, thanks to an exceptional top-level component that gives elasticity for perfect adherence to the skin. Each of the companies then declined its production according to its specificity. And this is their important contribution.

Cifra presents the eco-sustainable version of the mask, the ECO-MASK™, which combines the high performance of Cifra knitting technology with the sustainability of the materials used. The 100% regenerated yarns create a 100% sustainable mask with 83% ECONYL and 17% ROICA™ V550 elastomer, the stretch fiber certified Cradle to Cradle Gold Health Level which allows excellent and lasting printability, as well as advantages regarding the circular economy as it does not release harmful substances into the test environment according to the Hohenstein Environmental Compatibility certification.

Iluna Group, European leader in the production of lace, has recently donated 400 protective “smart”  made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Multi-use, washable, bacteriostatic, breathable and water-repellent prevention masks gave to San Gerardo Hospital in Monza to answer to the Call to action launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana De Marsanich, with the responsible and innovative materials expert Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, the fashion designer Marina Spadafora of Fashion Revolution Italia and the entrepreneur Simona Roveda of LifeGate. Iluna Group also announces the launch of the website dedicated to the direct sale of the different kind of masks all made with three layers, antibacterial and anti-drip treatment and washable up to 10 times. Iluna Group has also created the “smart” masks made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar.

In addition to the “smart” masks, available for women, men and children, Iluna Group has created two special versions of Lace Masks, covered with refined lace. One embroidered on a cotton base and one with soft microfiber.

Rosti, historic knitwear factory based in Brembate specialized in the design and production of cycling clothing with the best technical fabrics and the most advanced technologies, has put its experience at the service of the production of protective masks washable up to 20 times, made with Sitip fabric and with the anti-drop treatment Ecoacquazero®. Fascinating and protective like a second skin, the masks are sold in a pack of 10 pieces with captivating, colorful, geometric and original graphics, designed for every personality.

Rosti masks contain the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ Resistance, a family of premium stretch yarn with particular performances of resistance and durability.

• Launched by SCOTT Sports Racing Team with Sitip, Rosti and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei

The collection was designed starting from the needs of the athletes with the aim to offer them the best solution in terms of style and ergonomics, high performance, easy maintenance and perfect fit being also sustainable.

Ispo 2020 saw the celebration of the partnership started last year between Scott Racing Team, Rosti, Sitip and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei for the supply of the team riders’ uniforms. Rosti worked on style and packaging, Sitip on technical fabrics ‘BE-HOT - Heat Generating fabrics’, while ROICA™ provided its premium stretch ingredient. The collaboration carries an interesting news: uniforms are not just highly performing but also, and above all, sustainable.

Sitip created the Native fabric entirely made with recycled yarns and featuring the premium high performing  ROICA™ EF elastomer. The yarn is certified GRS - Global Recycled Standard certification (and also provides special dyeability) with Rosti’s design and high care garment manufacturing.

The main rider of Scott Racing Team Italy, the young and award-winning champion Juri Ragnoli, the “end user” of the uniforms, explaines the requirements that garments should possess in order to meet the sporting challenges that await athletes: breathability, comfort on the skin, performance, durability of the shape and maintenance of the characteristics throughout the course of use of the garment. When asked about the arrival of a new sustainable uniform, the champion said that “it’s right and important to take this direction, which perfectly meets the team’s values, as love for nature and respect for the environment. It will be nice to wear something that follows exactly what you believe in”.

• The PREMIUM GROUP in Berlin is cancelling its PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows for this summer season, as well as the FASHIONTECH conference – in collaboration with the leading global digital B2B marketplace, JOOR, there is still a guaranteed trading option.

Due to the coronavirus crisis, in April the dates of the PREMIUM GROUP’s events were provisionally moved from the original schedule of 31 June-2 July 2020 to 28 -30 July. Now, the Federal and State governments have decided to cancel large-scale events with over 1,000 visitors until 31 August 2020.
     
A statement from Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP: 

“We greatly regret the decision of course, especially after the success of our January events. The ban on large-scale events has been around for some time and has been publicly discussed. It hurts us to do it, but we are also conscious of our responsibility. If cancelling our trade shows, conferences and parties contributes to the safety of our customers and visitors, then we have to take this step.
 
We are in close contact with all our brands and partners and have spent the last four weeks discussing possible approaches, concepts and new focal topics for the summer. The bottom line is that digitalisation is clearly the focus. It’s all about using the time over the next few months sensibly. The timing for brands and retailers is now right – all market participants are aware of the necessity of this.

We have been working closely with JOOR, the leading B2B marketplace globally, for around a year, after successfully integrating our own digital platform, Veee.com. JOOR has digitalised the entire procurement process and ensures a seamless, functioning wholesale process on an international scale – both for brands and retailers.
 
We shall shortly be offering webinars on this and can offer our customers an optimal, digital ordering solution so as to use this time of the pandemic efficiently. We are very happy with this option and our year-long investment in the topic of digitalisation. This has come good for us now.
 
Our trade show formats have been about more than just ordering for a long time now. They are about encounters, emotion, inspiration, communication and, finally, the fashion community getting together. Although lots can take place digitally nowadays, it doesn't replace physically meeting up in person. We have seen this more than ever in the present situation.
 
We are going to work on new concepts for 2021, and we will liaise with the key stakeholders in Berlin and with all others too to ensure we hit the ground running again. We’re taking on the challenge and will come back to the industry when we have news.”

Labels and small accessories stand together for the company’s great passion for leather, featuring a mix of eclectic inspirations, complemented by a variety of solutions and with a new exclusive Green Book, with a very sustainable approach.

A creative selection of proposals enriched with a new line of completely green products defines the SS2021 collection by Vivolo. Sustainability is the running theme, thanks to the development of concepts that focus on the combination of zero-impact processing techniques and state-of-the-art materials, bringing to life RE Vivolo.
This special Green Book gathers a selection of products that provide a sustainable interpretation of the beauty of Vivolos work. The selection of specific raw materials defines five micro-areas in terms of options: leather (recycled, solvent-free and vegetable-tanned), eco-leather (solventfree and jacron), technical solutions (silicon and recycled post-industrial polyurethane), fabrics (organic cotton, recycled cotton, felt obtained from the recycling of post-consumer plastic materials) and the brand new plant-based options (Apple Skin, Piñatex® and Bananatex®). In parallel with this eco-line, the collection presents the evolution of more classical option.
The heritage style results in the selection of new designs, made thanks to an combination heat embossing and hand painting enhancing the quality of leather through the creation of miniature works of art. An additional highlight is the embroidery section.
Technical inspirations remain the most direct expression of the research by the inhouse R&D team. From the use of high-performance materials to the implementation of ideal processing techniques, the mood emphasizes the high-tech character of these options, through mirrored, reflective and  iridescent finishings along with a fluorescent color palette. Silicon and polyurethane make again in this season their appearance.

The collection comes to a close with the accessories – patches as well as  drawstrings, puller, buttons and cord stoppers, along with many others – conceived to become the added detail to embellish and enhance outerwear and knitwear. Once again, Vivolo proves its ability in  interpreting a style that transcends time, representative of the Made in Italy tradition along with an unparalleled approach to production.

A BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY FOR DYEING POLYESTER AND ITS BLENDS

Huntsman Textile Effects introduces TERASIL® BLUE W, the latest addition to our TERASIL® W/WW range of wash fast disperse dyes. TERASIL® Blue W is designed to meet all major requirements for high-performance sportswear and athleisure wear. TERASIL® BLUE W stands out as the leading disperse wash fast blue dye in the market which is not sensitive to reduction, leading to higher reproducibility, right-first-time results and operational excellence.

Polyester fiber has become the fiber of choice in the textile industry, the demand for polyester and man-made fibers is expected to rise over the long term, as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand around the world. At the same time, leading brands, retailers and mills are increasingly focused on achieving brilliant and deep shades, consistent shade reproducibility, as well as water, energy and cost savings.

With cutting-edge disperse dye technology at its heart, TERASIL® BLUE W is developed by Huntsman Textile Effects to provide the leading solution for meeting industry’s wash fastness requirements. TERASIL® BLUE W offers an attractive shade and high build-up for deep blues which stays vibrant. TERASIL® BLUE W also provides quality assurance as products are bluesign® approved and suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products(1).

In keeping with the brand’s internationalization strategy, Pinko is glad to announce an ambitious retail expansion plan in the Korean market.
The first phase of this retail project, developed in collaboration with Mitsui & Co. Italia and La Pace as local partner, saw the opening of two stores located inside two of the most important and prestigious Korean duty free shopping destinations.

The first Pinko shop in Korea opened its doors at the end of January at Seoul’s Shilla Duty Free Downtown Store, which houses the boutiques of the most prestigious global luxury brands. The inauguration of the second Pinko store in Korea was celebrated with an opening party on Feb. 20. This store is located in Seoul at the Hyundai Department Store Duty Free Dongdaemun, one of the most important Korean touristic attractions at day and night, thanks to its wide offering of merchan-dising categories, spanning from international luxury and fashion items to the highly popular Made in Korea beauty products.

Pinko’s retail expansion plan in the Korean market also includes the opening of two new stores by the end of 2020, while the company aims to operate a total of 14 boutiques, 6 inside department stores and 8 at Duty Free destinations, within three years.

Featuring the innovative ISKO’s R-TWO™ program, the collection has a new take on sustainability: it relies on fabrics made of reused and recycled materials as well as an advanced design research for the development of a new, conscious style.

Sustainability through the use of highly responsible materials and the experimentation of fits: this is Reloved, the new collection developed by haikure in partnership with leading denim ingredient brand ISKO. Presented with an exclusive preview during Milan Fashion Week, it is an act of love for the planet, the environment and the people.

The project perfectly embodies all the values that made the longstanding partnership between the two brands possible – a responsible approach to innovation and the development of cutting-edge concepts.

Taking into account both materials and design, Reloved features the pioneering ISKO’s R-TWO™ program, which relies on a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester.

During the processing of raw cotton into yarn, for every 100 kilos of cotton approximately 10% is lost. ISKO collects it and prevents it from becoming waste, adding it back into the spinning process obtaining cotton that is fully traced, documented and audited. This verification process has been invented by ISKO in partnership with its yarn supplier Sanko, offering full clarity into the traceability of reused cotton from field to fabric. It is also certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – of the Textile Exchange.

Recycled polyester comes from clear plastic bottles or, alternatively, it can come from other certified waste: in either case the source material is collected, sorted, stripped of labels and caps, and cleaned to be ground into plastic pellets. These can then be re-spun into new fiber filaments.

Depending on the content percentages, for the recycled polyester ISKO can provide either the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certifications, both of which track the recycled raw material through the supply chain from input to final product to verify its integrity.

Designed to tackle over-sourcing, the platform improves the environmental performance impact of yarn-to-fabric production. As ISKO’s latest responsible evolution, ISKO’s latest responsible evolution has resulted also in the perfect solution to enhance the responsible character of the Reloved collection.

The collection’s fresh and innovative take on style combines unisex concepts and oversized fits, is available in one shade of color featuring a variety of prints and is crafted with the planet and its inhabitants in mind. To provide full clarity and traceability from field to shelf, materials and processes are kept under the control of Made By, an independent agency that controls the social and environmental conditions of all elements of the production process.

“haikure and ISKO have always shared the same values and approach to innovation,” explained Elena Faleschini, ISKO Global Field Marketing Manager. “When we have the opportunity to work together, we know that the result is going to be astounding. Reloved is a testament to how fashion can be both innovative and responsible, without compromising on style.” A preview of Reloved was presented on Febuary 22nd, during a special happening that took place at Clan Upstairs (Vicolo Fiori 2, Milan), gathering friends, partners and denim lovers.

A true New Eco High-Tech Force of Nature

At ISPO, AKA – Asahi Kasei Advance keept the planet fit and healthy at the same time. The cutting edge department of global material innovator Asahi Kasei, unveils ECOSENSOR™, the cutting-edge fabric collection boosting responsible innovation with a “New Eco High-tech Force of Nature” new generation of performance.

Harnessing AKA expertise in yarning a smarter future, the new range focuses on sportwear, urban and athleisure fabrics. “At ISPO we launch the energetic protein fitting perfectly in textiles for clothes with an active imprint, comfort touch and smooth style. From-yarn-to-dyeing and along the whole supply chain, the collection is 100% traceable.” Says Nishizawa Akira, President & Representative Director Asahi Kasei Advance corporation.

With ECOSENSOR™, Asahi Kasei Advance truly innovates at ISPO as the very first producers choosing the high-performance path with sustainable values.

Indeed, the flexible and multitasking range is the high-tech solution for sportwear, outerwear and beyond. The collection embraces the casual and sporty mood of active urban surfers as well as that easy-to-wear attitude for a relaxing free-time at home.

THE S/S 2021 SMART COLLECTION AND STRATEGY: “TEAMING UP IS THE RESPONSIBLE WAY FORWARD”
At Première Vision in Paris, February 11th – 13th Jersey manufacturer TINTEX presents its S/S 2021 collection and a new strategic approach to make the world a better place, a garment at a time in  Hall 5 Booth R50/S43, and Hall 3 Smart Creation Booth S7. “That’s why we decided to update our statement-motto in Naturally Advanced Evolution: a promise and an invitation to work together to develop further collections combining an environment-driven approach with cutting-edge technology.” Says Ricardo Silva, Head of Operations of TINTEX.

“Textile producers and fashion brands should develop their partnership in a much more collaborative way.” Say Says Ricardo Silva, Head of Operations of TINTEX. In a move towards his partners, the company has re-organised its products collection into 4 distinct categories and further evolved its production process in order to guarantee the highest quality and performance of its fabrics and, at the same time, to become more competitive and to allow its clients to orientate better and easily find the most suitable and practical solution. COLLECTION focuses on seasonal proposals while EXPRESSIONS includes a range for all-year-round collections.

THE SS 2021 COLLECTION is imbued with sustainability, innovation and a collaborative attitude. The new range comprises 24 new references built focusing on responsible materials – including recycled or recyclable (100% same raw material), tactile finishes and active performances with smart and cutting-edge technical background. “The main area we developed for the S/S 2021 collection was carefully selected starting from the inputs we had from our partners during some of the most successful collaborations in the past 2 years,” adds Ana Eusebio, designer.

And just to keep the conversation about sharing innovation at best, TINTEX is officially shading the light on its Coating Unit that, thanks to continuous investments, will be able to deliver Naturally Advance Solutions in terms of finishings, not just for TINTEX but also for woven producers that are aligned with the corporate commitment. Come to discover TINTEX portfolio of smartly developed coatings at its booth at Smart Creation, hall 3.