From the Sector

With four months until the show opens doors, key exhibitors have already confirmed participation for the Cinte Techtextil China 2024. In conjunction with a positive global outlook, key players are eager to congregate again at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre from 19 – 21 September, to showcase innovations and connect with buyers from various sectors.
 
The fair will closely align with Messe Frankfurt’s ‘Texpertise Econogy’ – the umbrella for the group’s sustainability activities at its more than 50 textile trade shows worldwide. New energy elements, such as battery and hydrogen, will appear at the Innovation Showcase Area, on top of other interactive fringe events which centre around sustainability.

With environmental protection as one of the top sourcing categories at the previous edition, products with medical, home, protection, and building applications rounded out the top five. By product group, in-demand sourcing categories included nonwovens; technology and accessories; woven fabrics, laid webs, knitted fabrics, braidings; composites; as well as coated textiles and bondtec. The show saw 15,542 visits from 52 countries and regions last year.

Catering to various key players in 2023, the well-known Groz-Beckert East Asia brought their latest innovative needling tools for the nonwovens sector. Speaking at the show, Mr Kabilen Sornum, Vice President Asia Pacific of Marketing & E-Commerce, commented: “While we are focusing on the China market, we have also seen buyers from the Middle East, Europe, Korea, and North Asia. Cinte Techtextil China is a more international fair – we can see that everyone is here, and the quality and innovation of buyers has improved greatly in the past three to four years. E-mobility and sustainability are two very clear trends.”
 
The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Under adidas’ ambition to help athletes overcome high pressure moments in sport, it has teamed up with leading sport neuroscientists, neuro11, to understand the impact it has within a game of football, basketball, and golf during penalty shootouts, high-stake putts and must-make free-throws.

Working with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, as well as amateurs in the game, adidas and neuro11 delved into their minds to identify and analyse where pressure peaks, to help athletes across the globe to better understand it.

Understanding from this study that grassroots athletes and their elite counterparts experience similarly intense levels of pressure in the biggest sporting moments - but elite athletes were up to 40% more effective at managing pressure during these moments¹ - a toolbox of techniques has been developed, built from the specific findings, to assist next-gen athletes in managing and overcoming the feeling within their game.

Covering in-depth detail on what pressure looks like within each sport, how it has been proven to impact specific in-game moments, the brain zones that neuro11’s state-of-the-art brain technology measures and the main insights from each athlete’s training session, each report sets out to support all athletes in accessing the optimal zone - the brain state in which they perform at their best.

Rounded off with science-backed tips that reveal the optimal area of a goal to strike a penalty, how to use time to regain focus before netting a free throw, as well as the impact of dwell time on putting in golf – the guides are shaped around enhancing mental focus during some of the most pressured moments across sport.

1 Findings captured during athlete training sessions, as part of adidas SS24 Brand Campaign, in collaboration with neuro11 (November ’23- January ’24). Study carried out with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, in addition to 5 grassroot athletes.

Happy New Year 2024! Here's to a year full of innovation and success in the textile and apparel industry.

The Textination team sincerely wishes you a great start: may 2024 be full of health, joy and energy for you.

There are undoubtedly 365 days of exciting encounters, developments, innovations and new trends ahead in our shared world of the textile and apparel industry. We would like to join you on this journey and document the many facets of our industry.

We are convinced that the new year will be just as fascinating and inspiring for our users as the best textile products and designs that our industry has to offer. We look forward to accompanying you through the coming 12 months with the latest news, in-depth analyses and exclusive insights.

Thank you for your continued support and interest in Textination.

Together we will tell textile tomorrow!

Ines Chucholowius
- Managing Director -

Suedwolle Group introduces ACTIVEYARN®, the company’s first seasonless corporate collection: ACTIVEYARN® is composed of a selection of weaving, flat and circular knitting, hosiery and technical yarns, with advanced spinning technologies, wool blends and other natural and traceable fibres. It is a seasonless collection of yarns suitable for different occasions, to support everyone’s attitude and style.

This idea is expressed by the concept of “Get active”, which is not just about using Suedwolle Group’s products in sports applications, but about a new mindset, a changing perspective. By taking a fresh look at the company’s wide offer, ACTIVEYARN® provides new opportunities and inspiration to explore Suedwolle Group’s full potential in terms of technology, sustainability and innovations. It considers with a new point of view on the collections for knitting, weaving and technical uses, creating new connections among them and offering a mosaic of new possibilities and versatile combinations.

This theme of the collection and the new mindset may be represented in the concept of a “kaleidoscope”, symbol of the active change inspiring Suedwolle Group’s creativity.

The yarns in the ACTIVEYARN® collection embody the company’s six strategic pillars of innovation – sustainability, circularity, traceability, design, performance and technology – drivers of the entire process of design and production.

Jasmin GOTS Nm 2/48 (100% wool 19,5 μ X-CARE) is a natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn with GOTS certification that meets the company’s demand for sustainability. X-CARE, the innovative treatment by Suedwolle Group, uses eco-friendly and chlorine-free substances that make wool environmentally friendly and suitable for easy-care quality.

Tirano Betaspun® RWS FSC (41,5% wool 17,2 μ TEC RWS certified, 41,5% LENZING™Lyocell 1,4 dtex 17% polyamide filament 22 dtex GRS certified) is a fully traceable high performance yarn, suitable for sportswear and activewear.

OTW® Midway GRS Nm 2/60 (60% wool 23,5 μ X-CARE, 40% polyamide 3,3 dtex GRS certified) comes from the recycling of pre-consumer polyamide and thus is a perfect example of circular production. Suitable for weaving, it combines the added performance that comes from our OTW® patented technology applied to a high durability blend, ideal for active garments.

Wallaby Betaspun® Nm 1/60 (87,5% wool 18,4 μ TEC, 12,5% polyamide filament 22 dtex) is the result of application of latest-generation Betaspun® technology to a natural fibre like wool, allowing production of fine yarns with extra strength and abrasion resistance, ideal for seamless and wrap knitting.

Banda TEC X-Compact Nm 2/47 (100% wool 17,2 μ TEC) is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn benefitting from the innovative X-Compact, permitting production of particularly linear yarns ideal for clean design and fabrics appropriate for today’s fashions.

Caprera GRS Nm 1/60 (45% wool 19,3 μ Non mulesed X-CARE 55% COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester 2,2 dtex GRS certified) increases the performance of the wool-based non mulesed fibre through combination with COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester. This is a material coming from recycling of post-consumer PET bottles, dyeable at low temperatures, that aids evaporation of moisture from the skin to maintain stable body temperature, enhancing the comfort of activewear and urban garments.

Textiles are a given in civil engineering: they stabilize water protection dams, prevent runoff containing pollutants from landfills, facilitate the revegetation of slopes at risk of erosion, and even make asphalt layers of roads thinner. Until now, textiles made of highly resistant synthetic fibers have been used for this purpose, which have a very long lifetime. For some applications, however, it would not only be sufficient but even desirable for the auxiliary textile to degrade in the soil when it has done its job. Environmentally friendly natural fibers, on the other hand, often decompose too quickly. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing a bio-based protective coating that extends their service life.

Depending on humidity and temperature, natural fiber materials can degrade in the soil in a matter of months or even a few days. In order to significantly extend the degradation time and make them suitable for geotextiles, the Denkendorf team researches a protective coating. This coating, based on lignin, is itself biodegradable and does not generate microplastics in the soil. Lignin is indeed biodegradable, but this degradation takes a very long time in nature.

Together with cellulose, Lignin forms the building materials for wood and is the "glue" in wood that holds this composite material together. In paper production, usually only the cellulose is used, so lignin is produced in large quantities as a waste material. So-called kraft lignin remains as a fusible material. Textile production can deal well with thermoplastic materials. All in all, this is a good prerequisite for taking a closer look at lignin as a protective coating for geotextiles.

Lignin is brittle by nature. Therefore, it is necessary to blend the kraft lignin with softer biomaterials. These new biopolymer compounds of brittle kraft lignin and softer biopolymers were applied to yarns and textile surfaces in the research project via adapted coating systems. For this purpose, for example, cotton yarns were coated with lignin at different application rates and evaluated. Biodegradation testing was carried out using soil burial tests both in a climatic chamber with temperature and humidity defined precisely according to the standard and outdoors under real environmental conditions. With positive results: the service life of textiles made of natural fibers can be extended by many factors with a lignin coating: The thicker the protective coating, the longer the protection lasts. In the outdoor tests, the lignin coating was still completely intact even after about 160 days of burial.

Textile materials coated with lignin enable sustainable applications. For example, they have an adjustable and sufficiently long service life for certain geotextile applications. In addition, they are still biodegradable and can replace previously used synthetic materials in some applications, such as revegetation of trench and stream banks.

Thus, lignin-coated textiles have the potential to significantly reduce the carbon footprint: They reduce dependence on petroleum-based products and avoid the formation of microplastics in the soil.

Further research is needed to establish lignin, which was previously a waste material, as a new valuable material in industrial manufacturing processes in the textile industry.

The research work was supported by the Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Food, Rural Areas and Consumer Protection as part of the Baden-Württemberg State Strategy for a Sustainable Bioeconomy.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

The AVK Working Group SMC/BMC and the European Alliance for SMC BMC are jointly organising SMCCreate 2023 - a conference on designing with SMC and BMC composites. The event, which offers insights into the entire product design process from idea to part manufacture, is aimed at both experienced designers and those new to the use of these materials.

Around 60 participants from all over Europe attended the first SMCCreate design conference, which took place in Antwerp in June 2022. SMCCREATE 2023 will take place in Prague (Czech Republic) on 7-8 November 2023 at the Vienna House by Wyndham Diplomat Prague; conference language is English. After a successful launch, AVK and the European Alliance for SMC BMC are looking forward to the second edition of the event and invite speakers to apply with their presentation proposals by 27 February. (Mail address: info@avk-tv.de).

The aim of the conference is to help designers and engineers choose the best material solution for their applications. Presentations will focus on best practices and industrial solutions, SMC and BMC component manufacturing, material selection and product development throughout the product life cycle, from design to sustainability.

(Mail address: info@avk-tv.de).

• Focus on the guiding principle of "textile intelligence" and sustainability

Long before sustainability became a trend in the textile industry, Schoeller Textil AG, which has been innovating technical fabrics and smart textile finishing technologies for more than 150 years, made it its mission to develop textile innovations in harmony with nature. Now the company is undergoing an extensive rebranding, whilst unveiling its strong brand foundation in the process. The result embodies the newly defined guiding principle of “Textile Intelligence” - the development and successful implementation of innovative textiles and intelligent textile technologies.

Innovations in the textile industry must meet requirements on several levels – offering both new and optimized solutions to sociological, ecological, and economic challenges of our time. Creating this holistic added value is firmly rooted in the Schoeller brand origin and is still the top priority in textile product development today. The brand essence has thus remained the same, but it has been embodied anew.

“At the beginning of the rebranding process, it was clear to us we had to root ourselves in (Swiss) tradition in order to fully realize Schoeller’s entire brand potential and successfully explore new, digital paths,” said Antonio Gatti Balsarri, Schoeller chief commercial officer.

“The goal of the rebranding is to communicate our traditional brand values in a completely new brand presence. The result was a sharpened brand profile, a clear brand strategy and tonality, as well as a clean, modern corporate design. We will specifically address our sustainability commitment through the expansion of digital touchpoints, their cross-media use, and an increased online presence. Simplified, straightforward, sustainable - in accordance with our greatest source of inspiration: nature.”

Transparency and Sustainability
Paramount to Schoeller’s corporate identity is the full disclosure of brand principles and transparency around all business divisions. A simplified logo design was established by reducing logo elements and colors for a modern look and feel that can be produced in a much more resource-efficient manner. Schoeller’s new brand mantra of “Textile Intelligence” speaks to its company mission of more than 150 years.

Schoeller has been a bluesign system partner from the very beginning and uses the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) to assess sustainable performance. In addition to environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes and careful material selection, the highest quality and sustainability standards in production also mean guaranteeing fair working conditions. Schoeller follows a Code of Conduct that guarantees transparent production chains, environmental protection, and fair working conditions.

“Zero Textile Waste” becomes a targeted brand strategy. While the production of textiles and textile technologies is continuously being optimized to preserve resources, the manufacturing processes are often costly and complex. To this end, Schoeller offers new approaches to efforts around Zero Waste in the industry. Its new online shop, “Schoeller re-Fabric” sells textile remnants from production directly to designers and smaller productions to increase its overall production volume efficiency and avoid textile waste.

ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative nonwovens production solutions at CINTE 2022 in Shanghai, China (September 6–8). ANDRITZ will show its broad product portfolio covering state-of-the-art nonwovens and textile production technologies such as air-through bonding, airlay, needlepunch, spunlace, spunbond, wetlaid/WetlaceTM, converting, textile finishing, recycling, and natural fiber processing.

SUSTAINABILITY IS KEY
ANDRITZ supports nonwovens producers in the move to sustainability with the aim of reducing or eliminating plastic components while maintaining the high quality of the desired product properties. This applies to all types of sustainable wipes, such as flushable, biodegradable, bio-sourced, carded pulp or standard carded wipes. The latest development in this field is the ANDRITZ neXline wetlace CP line, which integrates the carded-pulp (CP) process. This is a fully engineered production line combining the benefits of drylaid and wetlaid technologies to produce a new generation of biodegradable wipes.

NEXLINE WETLAID AXCESS TARGETS SMALLER AND MEDIUM PRODUCTION VOLUMES
The neXline wetlaid aXcess targets smaller and medium production volumes and has been devised for new and existing lines. The compact line provides an entrance to the growing wetlaid market, with a variety of final applications and options.

ANDRITZ AXCESS DEVELOPED FOR MEDIUM CAPACITIES IN WUXI, CHINA
The aXcess range was specially developed at ANDRITZ (China) Ltd. Wuxi Branch to handle medium capacities. The facility in Wuxi has an experienced platform for production and service specially geared to serve the Asian nonwovens industry. It designs and manufactures cutting-edge lines to complement the ANDRITZ aXcess product range, which includes complete lines and individual machines for air-through bonding, needlepunch and spunlace processes. With the aXcess range, ANDRITZ has developed a hybrid line combining European and Chinese machines, which is the ideal combination to obtain the best added value from each component in the line and be very flexible to accommodate different business cases.

The service organization was set up to provide prompt delivery and excellent customer support, even during the COVID-19 pandemic. A team of technicians and process experts can be deployed quickly to customer sites requiring full-range assistance. The ANDRITZ facilities include a roll service center with state of-the-art grinding equipment and a test stand for various types of rolls.

In addition, our aXcess range manufactured in Europe also offers technologies for spunlaid and wetlaid processes. Increasing production speeds and widths, compact and reliable design, and affordable investment costs are what customers look for in a competitive market environment. To meet these requirements ideally, we recently enhanced our nonwoven calender and dryer ranges.

Report Offers INDA Members Key Metrics to Assist in Strategic Planning and Investments

INDA, the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry, announces publication of the ninth edition of the annual North American Nonwovens Supply Report for its members.

Based on extensive research, producer surveys and interviews with industry leaders, the report provides an overall view of North American supply, including the key metrics of capacity, production and operating rates, in addition to regional trade, through the year 2021. The 75-page report contains 36 figures and 11 tables.

Findings from this year’s Supply Report include:

• North American capacity continues to increase with investments being made across all the processes and for a variety of end-uses. Production output exceeded that of new capacity, resulting in the industry’s nameplate capacity utilization increasing year-over-year, for the fourth consecutive year.
   
• In 2021, capacity of nonwovens in North America reached 5.540 million tonnes, an increase from the previous year of 1.8% (net growth of 98,300 tonnes) and an improvement over the previous year’s pandemic-impacted growth rate of 0.5%.
   
• The industry was able to quickly react to the demand for electrostatically charged fine-fiber meltblown used in the manufacture of respirators and pleated face masks. Twenty-two meltblown lines were added in 2020, resulting in 7.2% year-over-year growth rate for meltblown. In 2021, another 12 lines were added, resulting in 8.5% annual growth over 2020.
   
• North American imports, in tonnage, increased 1.6% in 2021 as exports decreased 6.0%. Imports were led by China accounting for 39% of the imports into North America followed by India (14%) and Germany (9%). Even with the significant shifts in North American trade dynamics, nonwovens tend to stay where they are produced, with the net trade balance (imports less exports, 422,100 tonnes) accounting for less than ten percent of the region’s capacity

The report—and the quarterly INDA Market Pulse and monthly Price Trends Summary—are provided to the nearly 400 INDA member companies and associates as part of their membership. The data gathered for this annual report serves as the foundation for the both the biannual Global Nonwoven Market Report published in September of 2021 and the biannual North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, which will be updated and published this fall.