From the Sector

Reinach, Switzerland, and Westlake, Ohio, 2 February 2021 - Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a strategic partnership with technology innovator CleanKore, aiming to advance sustainable dyeing processes throughout the denim supply chain.

The agreement will allow Archroma and CleanKore to promote the benefits of each other’s technologies. This includes Archroma’s robust catalog of dyes and specialty chemicals along with CleanKore’s patented process of dyeing yarns at the denim mill that completely eliminates the need for potassium permanganate (PP) spray and laser booster to achieve the bright white abrasion effect in the garment finishing process. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye. The technology does not just eliminate the chemicals associated in the PP spray and laser process, which is much safer for denim workers, it also allows to save significant amounts of water and energy throughout the manufacturing process from fabric to garmenting.

CleanKore initially looked at eliminating potassium permanganate due to its being classified as hazardous if inhaled or ingested, or in case of contact with the skin or the eye. It is also considered very toxic to aquatic life. No new equipment or capital expenses are needed to implement the CleanKore technology, which works on all denim fabric, including dark indigo, sulfur top/bottom and sulfur black.

This is where Archroma comes into the picture. Its global technical team of denim coloration specialists will provide support to denim mills seeking to implement the CleanKore technology and develop the desired looks and effects - with the right colors and chemical systems for their production set-up.

CleanKore estimates that the technology allows to save up to 15 liters of water per garment, or the equivalent to the drinking needs of 5 people per day, and up to 0.51 kWh of energy per garment, or the equivalent of five 100-watt light bulbs on for 1 hour. The CleanKore technology also leads to a 10% to 20% increase in production throughput, as a result of a faster garment wash-down and the elimination of PP spray.

For CleanKore CEO Darryl Costin Jr., the announcement comes at an ideal time for CleanKore: "We have successfully proven the technology with mill partners such as Arvind and other denim mills in Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. The response from the industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a partner in Archroma, one that is highly respected for their innovation and emphasis on sustainability throughout the industry, will allow us to take CleanKore to the next level.”

Umberto Devita, Global Indigo Manager at the Archroma Global Competence Center for Denim & Casualwear, adds: "CleanKore is perfectly aligned with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced'. 'Safe' through the elimination of a potentially harmful substance and the protection of the denim workers, 'Efficient' through the reduction of resource consumption, improved productivity and cost-effective profile. And 'Enhanced' through the gorgeous colors and effects allowed with Archroma's innovations and systems, in particular our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo and Diresul® sulfur dyes. We look forward to help promoting an innovation that will help with many of the challenges facing our denim customers throughout the world. Because it’s our nature."

Flax has accompanied people for thousands of years, in linen fabrics, in ropes, as insulation material. And until the present day. With woven tapes made of flax, vombaur makes the functional and ecological advantages of natural fibres available for lightweight design.

Lightweight and firm
Flax fibres are particularly rigid and tear-proof. Textiles made of the natural material therefore give natural fibre reinforced plastic (NFP) special stability. Additionally, flax has a low density. The components thus combine high rigidity and strength with low weight. Another functional plus: natural fibre reinforced plastics are less prone to splintering than glass fibre reinforced plastics.

Sustainable material
The cultivation of flax binds CO2 and the production of NFP generates 33 percent lower CO2 emissions than conventional fibre reinforced plastics. The energy consumption is 40 percent lower. This reduces production costs and improves the material's CO2 footprint. Punch-packing arguments for natural fibre tapes – like flax tape by vombaur – in lightweight design applications.

Circular Economy
Circular Economy – this also works in lightweight design. The number of recycling cycles without loss of quality is higher for natural fibre reinforced plastics than for glass or carbon fibre reinforced plastics: the thermoplastic matrix of the composite can be melted and recycled after a product life cycle. The natural fibres can "live on" in other products – injection moulded products for example.

Versatile applications
"Composites from our flax tapes are used to reinforce high-tech skis as well as for extruding state-of-the-art window sections – the applications are countless," explains Tomislav Josipovic, Sales Manager with vombaur. "As a development partner, we support applications for the automotive, wind energy, construction, sports and many other industries with our composite textiles."

• Carbon fibers combined with injection molding replace conventional steel construction
• SGL Carbon supplies innovative carbon fiber profiles
• Serial use in a future high-volume model of BMW Group
• Construction method offers great potential for use in other automotive projects

Already in August, SGL Carbon received a multi-year order from Koller Kunststofftechnik GmbH for the production of novel carbon fiber profiles for serial use in windshields for a future high-volume model of BMW Group.

The profiles are particularly flexible fiber tows, pre-impregnated with thermoplastic resin in various dimensions. They will be compiled by SGL Carbon on the basis of its own 50k carbon fiber at its site in Innkreis, Austria, and subsequently processed by the injection molding experts at Koller to form a skeletal plastic component. The composite component will replace the previous steel-based windshield. Production of the carbon fiber profiles will start in the remainder of 2020 and will then be ramped up gradually over the next few years for the BMW Group model launch.

In the vehicle, the windshield is a connecting element between the roof frames and thus has an important stabilizing function. The carbon fiber profiles add the required stiffness and crash safety to the component. At the same time, they help to significantly reduce the weight of the roof and thus also support the driving dynamics. The injection molding process also enables particularly complex and material-efficient structures. In the BMW Group model, this innovative component concept will cut weight by 40 percent compared to conventional steel designs of the component while creating important space for cable ducts and sensors.

The production of the carbon fiber profiles themselves is also particularly geared to material and process efficiency in large-scale production. The profiles consist of several smaller fiber strands, the so-called rods, and are manufactured using the modern continuous pultrusion process. During product and process development it was one key objective to ensure that material loss during production is almost completely avoided.

"At SGL Carbon, we have been working on the development of thermoplastic carbon fiber profiles for use in injection molding for some time already. This development work is now beginning to pay off. Due to the many advantages and competitive costs, we see a great potential for the technology to be used in other automotive projects too," explains Sebastian Grasser, Head of the Automotive Segment in the Business Unit Composites - Fibers & Materials at SGL Carbon.

"Innovative lightweight construction with hybrid designs has developed into a strategically conclusive concept for Koller Group's OEM customers," confirms Max Koller, CEO of Koller Group. "SGL Carbon's high level of material expertise, combined with the process know-how of KOLLER Kunststofftechnik and KOLLER Formenbau, create the basis for a promising future in innovative lightweight construction technologies. With this order, the BMW Group has confirmed its confidence in the successful cooperation between SGL and Koller; we are particularly pleased about this", said Max Koller.
 
The Koller Group is a globally operating technology company with plants in Europe and China, as well as NAFTA. The Koller Group develops and manufactures lightweight construction, tools and serial components, primarily for the automotive industry.

The textile machinery industry is eagerly awaiting the start of the virtual trade show "Innovate Textile & Apparel". What and how will the more than 160 exhibitors present themselves virtually? How will the approximately 10,000 registered visitors accept the digital offer? WTIN is breaking new ground as organizer with this platform. But one thing is already certain: From 15 to 30 October 2020, they will bring the textile machinery industry a little closer together again in the Corona Pandemic. Oerlikon invites all visitors to take a look into the future of manmade fibers production and get to know the comprehensive range of products and services.

"Reconnecting innovation in the textile & apparel value chain" is the motto of WTIN's virtual trade show. And Oerlikon intends to more than live up to this motto. With more than 50 active experts from sales, customer service and technology as well as partners from its international network of representatives, the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group will try to be represented around the clock. "It is an interesting experiment for all of us and we would like to see it succeed," explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. "Our aim is to meet our existing customers again, make new contacts and see 'old friends' from the industry. We have prepared an attractive digital offer for them all. Those of you who missed our roller coaster ride in Barcelona last year can now enjoy the journey through time in peace and quiet from your home office on your digital tour of the fair. And, there are no more waiting times either," promises Wissenberg.

Factory know-how from a single source
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens. From the polycondensation and the processing of PTA and MEG as well as the extrusion of, for example, recycled polyester chips all the way through to hundreds of thousands of packaged and stored or directly-delivered textured bobbins for a market within the textile industry worth billions. From the planning and construction of highly complex production plants to the engineering of large-scale plant projects and competent customer services. This business model runs like a red thread through the self-conception of the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group. The right partner, especially – but not exclusively – for newcomers to the textile industry. "With us they get everything they need for a successful business: Factory know-how from a single source. And that's what we would like to show our visitors at our virtual trade fair booth," says Wissenberg.

• The CHT Group is constantly expanding its sustainable product range for a circular economy according to the Cradle to Cradle principles

Progress in itself does not necessarily have to be sustainable but in the CHT Group it certainly does. For this reason the company has defined progress more precisely. The developers and chemists from Tübingen show true inventive talent with sustainable innovations.

According to the CHT Group's self-perception, sustainable innovation always includes a responsibility component for the future. With decades of experience along the textile value chain, the globally active CHT Group offers an incomparably wide range of services focusing on sustainable, resource-saving and forward-looking speciality chemicals and the efficient shaping of textile processes.

The circular economy takes over a decisive role: In the CHT Group we are convinced that recyclable textile products are the right means to protect resources and reduce the environmental impact. Therefore, our team works closely with textile manufacturers and brands to achieve the common goal of avoiding waste and harmful substances along the textile production process and thus producing more ecological textiles.

The Cradle to Cradle approach provides a trend-setting concept in the textile world that perfectly fits the company's sustainable strategy: Right from the start products shall be created which are suited for the biological (compostable) or technical (recyclable) circulation.

The CHT Group focuses on the development of dyes, pigments and auxiliaries for textile finishing which can be decomposed without leaving any residues and easily returned to the natural circulation.

For textiles which are to be developed and produced strictly according to the Cradle to Cradle principle, CHT offers a comprehensive, constantly growing, compostable range for textile finishing. With 57 textile auxiliaries and 32 dyes/pigments CHT has succeeded in achieving the highest rating, the Platinum Material Health Certificate of the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

These products help textile manufacturers to achieve the Platinum rating in Material Health, one of five categories of the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ product standard on finished textiles. This contributes to giving textiles a positive ecological footprint.

Textiles can be given the decisive distinguishing feature through the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ product standard. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is the world's leading science-based standard for safe, recyclable and sustainable materials and products. CHT offers the possibility of designing tomorrow's sustainable textiles already today and is therefore part of the Circular Economy.

Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a registered trademark of the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

Rester Oy, which is developing the plant in Paimio, recycles companies' end-of-life textiles, and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy (LSJH), which will hire a production area at the same facility, processes households' end-of-life textiles. The plant will process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles every year, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste.

The textile industry’s end-of-life textile problem is intolerable. Natural resources are increasingly used to manufacture products, but these materials are lost at the end of their life cycle. About 100 million kilograms of textile waste are generated annually in Finland alone. Reusing this material could reduce the textile industry’s carbon footprint and significantly reduce the use of natural resources.

Rester Oy and LSJH will drive the textile sector towards a circular economy and begin processing textile waste as an industrial raw material. The Nordic countries’ first industrial end-of-textile refinement plant will open in Paimio in 2021. The 3,000-square-metre plant is being developed by Rester Oy, which recycles companies' end-of-life textiles and industrial waste materials. LSJH, which processes households’ end-of-life textiles on its production line, will hire part of the plant.

Outi Luukko, Rester Oy’s board chair, says, “The processing plant will begin a new era of textile circular economy in Finland. As industry pioneers, we are launching a system change in Scandinavia. The transition of the textile industry from a linear model to a circular economy is essential, as virgin materials cannot sustain the current structure of the textile industry. And why should it, when there is so much recyclable material available?”

From the perspective of Rester Oy’s main owner, work clothing supplier Touchpoint, the circular economy plant not only represents resource efficiency, but is also necessary from the perspective of the entire life cycle of a responsible work clothing collection.

Luukko adds, “Finding a local solution to a global problem is a huge leap in the right direction and raises Finland's profile as a pioneer of circular economy."

The future plant will be able to process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles annually, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste. Both production lines produce recycled fibre, which can be used for various industrial applications, including yarn and fabric, insulating materials for construction and shipping industries, acoustic panels, composites, non-woven and filter materials, and other technical textiles, such as geo-textiles.

LSJH is piloting a full-scale refinement plant

LSJH has launched a pilot production line for processing households' end-of-life textiles. Unfortunately, consumers' end-of-life textiles are heterogeneous, making them a challenging raw material for further processing. Before processing, the textiles are sorted by material into various fibre classes using optical identification technology developed by LSJH and its partners. This ensures the quality of the raw material and the resulting fibre products.

Jukka Heikkilä, managing director for Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, explains: “On the basis of the experiences gathered from the pilot project, Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto is preparing a full-scale refinement plant in the Turku region. As soon as 2023, the plant will process Finnish households' end-of-life textiles. The project involves all waste treatment plants owned by Finnish municipalities.”

Paimio has ambitious goals for circular economy companies

Rester’s initiative aims to create a circular economy cluster in Paimio that combines the processing and reuse of end-of-life textile fibres. Paimion Kehitys Oy, which is owned by the City of Paimio and the local association of enterprises, supports the development of circular economy companies in Paimio.

Mika Ingi, managing director for Paimion Kehitys Oy, says, “We want to step out of our traditional municipal role and create significant added value for everyone taking part. That is why we are involved in the development of a new modern service model based on ecosystem thinking. We are piloting the textile cluster, followed in the coming years by clusters focusing on plastic, construction, and energy. The aim of our service is to support and help develop new profitable business by bringing circular economy companies and their potential customers to innovate together."

The foundation stone of the processing plant was laid today (18 August 2020). The processing plant will begin operations in February 2021.

• "Even closer to our customers"

After more than eight years in the Intercontinental Business Center on Yutong Road in Shanghai, China, the Manmade Fibers segment has now opened a new sales and service office in the metropolis of millions near the international airport in Hongqiao and the National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC).

The Manmade Fibers segment in China now officially operates under the following address:

Oerlikon (China) Technology Co. Ltd.
Shanghai Branch
RM1208-1210, Tower A, The Place,
100 Zunyi Road, Changning District
Shanghai China 200051

The main reason for the change from Yutong Road to the new address on Zunyi Road was the logistical aspects in a city that has had to cope with increasingly heavy traffic in recent years. "Now we are even closer to our customers," explains Wang Jun, Oerlikon China President. The proximity to Hongqiao airport and the Hongqiao railway station with its high-speed trains will provide the sales and service staff with even better infrastructure connections.

Furthermore, the local repositioning also takes into account the changes within the Oerlikon Group. "The divestments made within the Oerlikon Group in recent years have now led to a reorganization here in Shanghai. Today, Oerlikon's business activities in China focus exclusively on the segments Manmade Fibers and Surface Solutions incl. Additive Manufacturing. The time had come to set up the best possible infrastructure for optimum customer service for both business segments," continues Wang Jun. In addition, in the age of digitalization, sales and service employees in China are increasingly able to work from home. All of this has now led to a changed, adapted and, last but not least, cost-optimized reorganization.

Leading fashion and textile industry training centre offers UK professionals hands-on experience with 3D digital design tools
 
EFI™ Optitex®, Electronics For Imaging's global provider of integrated end-to-end 2D & 3D CAD/CAM software solutions for the fashion and apparel industry, today announced its partnership with Fashion Enter Ltd. (FEL), a UK training and technical skills development centre for the fashion and textile industry. FEL has implemented EFI Optitex 3D solutions into its course curriculum.
 
Established in 2006, London-based FEL is a veritable "all-in-one" technology hub for the fashion and textile industry, offering multiple training and technical skills development services encompassing the entire design to production cycle. A not for profit, social enterprise, FEL also provides apprenticeships and adult learning through an Educational Skills and Finding Agency- and Social Enterprise London-approved technical centre supported by Haringey Council, Mayor's Good Growth Fund and online fashion retailer ASOS®.
 
To help lay the foundation for the UK's fashion and textile industry on its imminent journey towards digital transformation, FEL was determined to close the mounting skills gap in both industry and academia and offer UK professionals hands-on experience and exposure to 3D digital design tools. With a keen understanding of the market's growing need for speed, flexibility and shifting demands, in September 2019, FEL selected EFI Optitex as its 3D technology partner. FEL sought advanced 3D solutions that would enable innovative digital design courses, apprenticeships and bespoke training, including collaboration with leading fashion retailers such as Marks & Spencer®, ASOS, Next®, and many others.
 
After a short but highly intensive training period FEL implemented EFI Optitex 3D into its design and production processes, including pattern design and 3D tools for design and fitting. Since the recent implementation, FEL has already reaped the benefits of EFI Optitex 3D fully digital design, from sampling and grading, through to production. During a preliminary implementation phase, EFI Optitex 3D will enable FEL to deliver a wide range of accredited 3D design courses and forge collaborations with new customers, a result of EFI Optitex 3D's intuitive design tools, ease of use, and time and resource savings.

FOR POLYESTER AND “ACTIVE WEAR” COLOR TRENDS FOR WINTER 2021/2022

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is at the Première Vision exhibition to present its 'Color Atlas by Archroma®' for polyester. This very first color library for polyester brings together 1,440 colors for sportswear and athleisure, swimwear, children's clothing, shoes, as well as for fashion and home textiles. In this context of innovation, Carlin, a pioneer in anticipating trends since 1947, will present its selection of trends in active wear and will unveil the 3 hottest colors for winter 2021/2022: “In our societies now ruled by the vital need for ENTERTAINMENT, the DIVERGENT "extroverted Slashers", free-spirited and efficient, stimulate a MAXIMUM SELF-EXPRESSION which combines communicative power and contagious adrenaline.

In terms of shapes, we imagine assertive, shaked, keeled proportions, with volume contrasts: ultra-tight and stretched volumes. Concerning the materials, this refers to compact knits, fine nervous gauges (neo milano stretch pop), embossed ribs, colored furs, knitted materials, city: ultra-matte color drapery, double sides, jeans, over dye, deep dye.”

Selected in collaboration with fashion, sportswear and trend experts, the Color Atlas by Archroma® Polyester Library brings together new colors for in line with current trends, from the most neutral tones to the most vivid hues to fluorescent colors.

• New product finder "Flexible Graphite" finds optimum solutions for the respective customer requirements
• Identification of the best SIGRAFLEX® graphite gasket material for a specific application

With the help of SGL Carbon’s new product finder "Flexible Graphite", users can quickly select exactly the sealing product that best suits their application requirements - from the range of SIGRAFLEX graphite gasket sheets available. The product finder is accessible free of charge on the company's website and guides the user to the optimum sealing material - online, easily and accurately.

The product finder "Flexible Graphite" can be found on the website at www.sigraflex.com/productfinder