From the Sector

• Hohe Beschaffungspreise und rückläufige Nachfrage
• Geschäftsklima bricht ein

Die Hersteller der deutschen Maschenindustrie stellen sich auf schwierige Zeiten ein. Die Geschäftsklimaumfrage von Gesamtmasche für das 3. Quartal ergab einen drastischen Absturz der Geschäftserwartungen: Der Index fällt in den Negativbereich, die Erträge erodieren. „Viele Firmen können ihre rasant steigenden Produktions- und Beschaffungskosten nicht an die Kunden weiterreichen“, sagt Martina Bandte, Präsidentin des Gesamtverbands der deutschen Maschenindustrie. „Hohe Energiepreise, drohende Versorgungslücken und die gefährlich hohe Inflationsrate machen Unternehmen wie Verbrauchern zu schaffen.“

Mit -2,37 Indexpunkten verzeichnet der Geschäftsklimaindex der deutschen Maschenindustrie einen drastischen Absturz. Im vorangegangenen Quartal hatte er noch bei 9,28 Punkten gelegen. Negative Indexwerte wurden zuletzt im Lockdown erreicht.

Die Hersteller fürchten vor allem um ihre Inlandsumsätze. Für die kommenden Monate rechnen ca. 40 Prozent der Hersteller mit einem schlechteren Geschäft. Ein Drittel der befragten Unternehmen beklagt aktuell rückläufige Erträge. Bis zum Herbst erwarten sogar gut 52 Prozent der Firmen weitere Ertragseinbrüche. Während derzeit noch ca. 85 Prozent der Betriebe mit ihrer Kapazitätsauslastung zufrieden sind, rechnet ein Drittel mit einer Verschlechterung im nächsten Vierteljahr.

„In Deutschland ist die Inflation so hoch wie seit über 40 Jahren nicht mehr. Schrumpfende Realeinkommen und Energieknappheit nur mit dem Ukraine-Krieg zu erklären, greift zu kurz. Die Folgen einer ideologisierten Energiepolitik und 15 Jahre ungehemmte Geldmengenexpansion schlagen jetzt bitter zurück“, kritisiert die Familienunternehmerin Bandte. „Statt Ursachenbekämpfung zu betreiben, werden teure Notfallpläne aufgelegt. Tatsächlich wächst die Belastung für Firmen und Verbraucher immer weiter. Wenn unsere Wirtschaft wieder wachsen soll, muss die Politik dringend ihre Prioritätensetzung ändern.“

After three years, VUB a.s again got the chance to actively participate in the European trade fair Techtextil 2022m being present at a joint stand of Czech companies active in production and application of technical textiles, organized by Clutex - Cluster Technical Textiles.

In cooperation with partners from academic and production sphere many products were developed over the past years, sold by VUB under the brand Clevertex. For the presentation at the fair, a wide range of ESD protective clothing for the electrotechnical industry and for each worker dealing with electrostatic discharge sensitive components was on display. As well as another product line of the Clevertex brand representing wearable skincare textile products with antiseptic effects based on purely natural textile materials.

Attention was paid to the advanced solutions for smart textiles and e-textiles products esp. electrically conductive hybrid threads based on ultrafine metallic micro-wires. A significant advantage of these threads lies in their full compatibility with standard textile manufacturing processes, and possibility of customization in terms of fineness, electrical conductivity and temperature resistance of individual thread. As an example of one of the applications of conductive threads, different types of woven elastic conductive ribbons were demonstrated, which could be used as bus bars or as textile conductors wherever a variable length of conductive element is required without the negative influence on their electrical resistance during the change the length.

New ideas were exchanged, brainstormed, and discussed freely at members’ booths at the Swiss Textile Machinery Pavilion during the recent Techtextil in Frankfurt. “Customers and researchers met Swiss textile machinery companies to explore the possibility of the not-yet-invented. “We regard our Pavilion as the place where future innovations catch a spark,” says Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association. Further developments in the field of hybrid yarns were a hot topic. One example of this involves producing a yarn which has all the typical characteristics and advantages of carbon – but which also prioritizes careful use of resources, combining carbon fibres with thermoplastics.

Technical textiles cover a vast range of applications, and it’s still growing thanks to intensive research by specialist institutes and universities. Many members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association maintain long-standing partnership with such bodies. Innovations are often joint efforts.

Feel-good technical fabrics
Some technical textiles feel like a second skin. A well-known example is activewear from the ‘sport tech’ field. Activewear includes breathable clothing, usually consisting of a three-layer-laminate: an inner lining, a breathable membrane in the center, and an outer fabric. The challenge is to bond the individual layers without losing breathability or softness, while meeting technical requirements such as resistance to a number of wash cycles.

Bonding solutions meeting top quality requirements, as well as ambitious standards for environmental protection and sustainability, were reinvented by the Cavitec brand from the Santex Rimar Group. This company’s hotmelt technology uses one-component polymers applied to textiles in a hot, molten state. Bonding based on hotmelts is both water- and solvent-free. Drying and exhaust air cleaning are not necessary, which is an ecological advantage. Energy consumption is also significantly lower. Cavitec hotmelt technology is also developed for laminated medical protection fabrics which are safe, high-quality and sustainable. These fabrics can be washed, sterilized, and used again.   

A second skin with added value is the result of Jakob Müller Group’s cooperation with an institute for an established outdoor fashion brand. They have devised a heating mat applied as an inner jacket. Outdoor gear with a heated inlay offers the wearer a comfortable feeling even in a cold climate. The heating mat is particularly light, breathable, flexible and adjustable to three temperature levels.

Fabrics with these advantages are now possible thanks to multi direct weaving (MDW) technology from the Jakob Müller Group. A lacquer-insulated heating strand is inserted into the base textile as a ‘meander’ using MDW technology. The technology is offered with both label weaving machines and the latest generation of ribbon weaving machines. The textile pocket calculator is another MDW based future-oriented application developed in cooperation with a textile research institute.

Safety and health
Life-saving reliability is a must for vehicle airbags. They have to fulfil high security aspects, and must remain inflated for several seconds when an accident occurs. Airbags made of flat-woven fabric – cut and seamed – can show weakness at seams during the inflation phase. Latest Jacquard technology by Stäubli enables one-piece-woven (OPW) airbags to be produced, creating shape and structure in a single process. The final product is an airbag consisting of a sealed cushion with woven seams. OPW airbag weaving reduces the number of production steps, and increases the security aspects.
Another big advantage of Stäubli’s new weaving technology is the flexibility in formats required in today’s mid- and upper-range cars, where lateral protection (in the seat or in the roof over the door) has become standard and is designed in line with the car shape. Safe airbags are woven on modern high-speed weaving machines. The warp material, the variety of fabric patterns, and the importance of precisely shaped airbags require the use of a robust and reliable Jacquard machine.

A revolution for orthopaedic patients is a knitting machine from Steiger Participations, which uses compressive yarns developed to meet the needs of the specific health market. This machine model was exclusively designed for production with inlaid elastic yarns and offers optimum performance with guaranteed final product quality.

In the orthopaedic field, many Steiger flat knitting machines have already been operating as automatic, custom-made production systems. For example, the dimensions of an injured limb are taken by the doctor and fed into a web-based application. The doctor selects the compression class in the various sections of the item and a data file created by the software automatically applies a preconfigured program. With no human intervention required, the program is generated and produced on the machine, precisely matching the patient’s dimensions. Each product is different, and generally available within 48 hours.

ITM 2022 hosted textile technology leaders in Istanbul for 5 days, presenting the latest innovations in every field of textile from weaving, knitting, yarn, digital printing, finishing to denim. The ITM 2022 Exhibition, where a business volume of over 1.5 billion Euros was created in 5 days, accelerated the Turkish and world economy.

Organized by the partnership of Teknik Fairs Inc. and Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım Inc., ITM 2022- International Textile Machinery Exhibition was held at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between 14-18 June.  ITM 2022 Exhibition, attended by 1280 companies and company representatives from 65 countries, was visited by 64,500 people from 102 countries, consisting of 44% international and 56% domestic visitors.

Turkey became a Supply Center at the ITM 2022 Exhibition
The successful sales graph achieved at the ITM 2022 Exhibition proved that the difficulties experienced due to the pandemic for the last 3 years have been left behind. Turkey has become a supply center for European, Middle Eastern and African countries, especially with the disruption of the supply chain in Far East countries, including China. The profile of the professional visitors visiting the ITM 2022 Exhibition revealed that in the new world order that has shifted after the pandemic, the trade network has also changed hands and new players have appeared on the scene. The fact that manufacturers from all over the world such as Andorra, Angola, Honduras, Peru, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Egypt, Iran, and Oman purchased a large number of machinery and signed collaborations at the ITM 2022 Exhibition has proven this.

Exhibitors of ITM 2022 enlarge their stands for ITM 2024
Many company officials, who stated that they have achieved a sales graphic far above their expectations starting from the very first day of the ITM 2022 Exhibition and that they have hosted visitors from all over the world, decided to enlarge their stands at the ITM 2024 Exhibition. During the exhibition, companies visited the registration application points and applied for ITM 2024 participation.

The next meeting of the ITM and HIGHTEX Exhibitions will be held in Istanbul between 4-8 June 2024.

Weg von fossilen Rohstoffen und deren Knappheit – hin zu bisher ungenutzten Rohstoffen aus Pflanzen und Pilzen. Um diesen Wandel zu nachwachsenden Roststoffen zu unterstützen, hat das Fraunhofer UMSICHT im Projekt »FungiFacturing« Pilzwerkstoffe untersucht, die aus Reststoffen wie Stroh oder Holzspäne bestehen. Zum Abschluss des Vorhabens zeigen die Forschenden, dass sie neben einem Schallabsorber auf Pilzbasis auch weitere biobasierte Lösungen für die Bauindustrie entwickelt haben.

Ein Werkstoff aus pflanzlichen Rohstoffen und Pilzmyzel als Double-Porosity-Schallabsorber - so lautete das Ziel des Projektes FungiFacturing von August 2019 bis Juli 2021. »Pilzwerkstoffe stellen eine biobasierte Alternative zu konventionellen Materialien wie Polyesterschäumen oder Verbundstoffen auf Mineralbasis dar«, erklärt Julia Krayer, Biodesignerin am Fraunhofer UMSICHT. »Der Schallabsorber besteht aus Pilzen und pflanzlichen Reststoffen. Sägespäne, Treber aus der Bierproduktion oder Stroh nutzen wir als Nährboden, um die Pilze zu züchten und nutzen zu können.«

Die richtige Rezeptur für Paste und 3D-Druck
Gestartet haben die Forschenden des Fraunhofer UMSICHT das Projekt mit der Entwicklung einer pilzbasierten Paste, die mittels eines 3D-Druckverfahrens in die gewünschte Form gebracht werden konnten. Parallel dazu haben sie die Bewachsbarkeit der Paste untersucht. »Wir haben dabei festgestellt, dass der Pilz erfolgreich auf dem Treber wächst«, erläutert Lina Vieres, Biologin am Fraunhofer UMSICHT. »Allerdings behindert der Treber den Druckvorgang durch die enthaltenen Spelzen. Daher verzichten wir auf ihn als Substratzugabe und haben weitere Rezepturen mit Stroh und Holzspänen getestet.«

Rezeptur und Grundsubstrat haben gleichzeitig auch Auswirkungen auf die akustische Leistung des Materials. Hier stellte sich beispielsweise heraus, dass sich die sehr feinen Fasern für den Druck sehr vorteilhaft zeigen. Für die Akustik sind die Fasern aber eher hinderlich. Ebenso behinderten sie das Pilzwachstum, da dieser auf einen Gasaustausch in dem Material angewiesen ist. Mithilfe einer genauen Abstimmung zwischen Paste, Pilzwachstum, Eigenschaften und 3D-Druck haben die Forschenden eine Lösung gefunden: eine durchwachsbare, druckbare Paste.

Mehr als ein Schallabsorber
Die im Projekt FungiFacturing getesteten Werkstoffe besitzen weiterhin vielversprechende Eigenschaften in Bezug auf Druckfestigkeit, Wärmedämmung und Brandverhalten. »Mit diesen Eigenschaften eigenen sich Pilzwerkstoffe für weit mehr als nur Schallabsorber«, betont Krayer. Die Werkstoffe seien beispielsweise druckstabil und besitzen gute wärmedämmende Eigenschaften, die mit Holzfaserdämmplatten vergleichbar sind. In Brandversuchen sind keine offenen Flammen aufgetreten, und der Pilzwerkstoff lässt sich leicht am Anwendungsort anbringen. Pilzwerkstoffe können also auch in der Praxis leicht angewendet werden z.B. auch als Wärmedämmstoffe.

Weiterentwicklung des FungiFacturing-Ansatzes
Die Projektergebnisse zeigen, dass sich der entwickelte Prozess auf viele verschiedene Anwendungen und Werkstoffe übertragen lässt. Neben 3D-Druck sind weitere Herstellungsprozesse sowohl für pilzbasierte, als auch rein pflanzliche Pastenwerkstoffe denkbar. Das Fraunhofer UMSICHT prüft dazu nun verschiedene Produktionsverfahren und deren Ergebnisse.

• Biotransformation technology for nonwovens

Avgol^® has received the prestigious Innovation Award at the RIGHT Hygiene conference in recognition of its collaboration with Polymateria in development of pioneering biotransformation technology for nonwovens.
 
Biotransformation is a unique functionality wherein a conventional nonwoven fabric can be modified to react to certain triggers to then begin a cascade, and importantly a fundamental chemical transformation of the polymer resin into a wax that is readily degraded by natural bacteria, microbes and fungi normally found in the environment.
 
“The transformation is triggered through the combined effects of the natural elements of decay - air, moisture, heat and sunlight,” said Mr. Sanjay Bhayani, Director of India Operations with Avgol. “Once triggered, the material will transform into a low molecular weight wax structure leaving no microplastics or toxic residue behind. Moreover, if the product comprising the biotransformation technology is disposed of in the normal way and facilities are available, then it can be recycled by readily available means.”

“By bringing the Biotransformation technology to the various potential markets in India, we hope to offer a real-world solution to waste management,” he said. “We particularly hope to address aspects of the creation of fugitive waste and remove this from the environment without causing additional, and potentially more dangerous, problems.”

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), einer der weltweit führenden Petrochemieproduzenten mit globaler Präsenz in Europa, Afrika, Nord- und Südamerika sowie im asiatisch-pazifischen Raum, wird auf der Techtextil die neuesten Entwicklungen und Innovationen seiner drei Faser-Sparten MOBILITY, HYGIENE und LIFESTYLE vorstellen. Diese drei Geschäftsbereiche vereinen Schlüsselkompetenzen in den Bereichen Fasern, Vliesstoffe und Gewebe für die Märkte Automobil, Hygiene, Funktionsmaterialien und Verbundwerkstoffe.

Unter dem Motto "Reimaging Chemistry together for a better World" wird ein breites Portfolio an nachhaltigen Produkten, fortschrittlichen Technologien und verbraucherorientierten Lösungen vorgestellt.

Ein Schwerpunkt wird die Marke Deja® sein — die Plattform für nachhaltige Produkte von Indorama Ventures. Sie umfasst u.a. Materialien wie Fasern aus recyceltem PET (rPET). Ziel ist es, Produkte im Umlauf zu halten und die Kreislaufwirtschaft zu etablieren.  Außerdem werden Materialien mit einem neutralen Kohlenstoff-Fußabdruck, darunter Breathair® und bio-basierte Produkte, präsentiert.

Auch andere neue Technologien werden vor Ort zu sehen sein. Um die Verschmutzung der Umwelt durch Kunststoffe zu verringern, führt Indorama Ventures Polyolefinfasern und Vliesstoffe ein, die durch die kürzlich eingeführte Biotransformationstechnologie biologisch abbaubar sind. Biotransformation ist ein Prozess, bei dem sich der physikalische Zustand einer Faser von einem kristallinen Feststoff in ein bioverfügbares Wachs ändert.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, along with its Italian subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., will be participating in the Techtextil exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany from the 21st till the 24th of June 2022.

On display will be SHIMA SEIKI’s latest innovation in flat knitting technology as applied to the field of technical textiles—a prototype weft knitting machine capable of multi-axial yarn insertion. Fabrics produced on this machine use inlay technique for the production of hybrid textiles that combine the stretch characteristics of knitted fabrics with the stability of woven textiles, suited to various technical applications. To this, warp yarn is inserted to further expand its capability to produce 3D-shaped carbon fiber and composite preforms directly on the machine. This is made possible by taking advantage of the fact that flat knitting as a textile production method is capable of producing end products that are shaped-to-form and with added thickness. Compared to current methods of preform production, savings in post-processing time, material, labor and associated costs are immense, realizing efficient and sustainable production. SHIMA SEIKI’s own yarn unwinding technology is also used for optimum yarn feed and tension for use with technical yarns that are otherwise difficult to knit. Industrial textile samples knit on the multi-axial machine will also be available for examination on-site.

SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will be available for demonstrations as well. Of particular interest should be its ultra-realistic simulation capability that realizes Virtual Sampling. When countless variations must be evaluated before arriving at a final design, virtual product samples can be used to streamline the decision-making process by minimizing the enormous amount of time, cost and material normally associated with producing actual samples for each variation. When approved, the same data can be converted to machine data for immediate knitting, significantly reducing lead times.

Archroma will be at Techtextil 2022 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, from 21 to 24 June 2022, to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized sustainability, productivity and value creation in their markets.

Archroma will present 9 new solution systems and 3 innovations, and will hold 2 booth events.

3 innovation highlights

• PFC-free* Smartrepel® Hydro SR, a new solution developed for the repellence of water-based soil;
• Biocide-free OX20, a new odor-neutralizing technology newly launched by our partner SANITIZED AG;
• Perapret® AIR, a new mineral finishing technology for air purification is activated by natural and artificial light sources and can be applied on all fabrics

9 new solution systems
Archroma introduced its first ever solution systems at the Techtextil 2019 edition, and since then has developed more than 30 systems for technical textile and nonwoven applications.

• CLEAN AIR, a mineral air purification system that stays put on all kinds of fabrics and is activated by artificial and natural light, for as long as there is light; ➔ based on the new Perapret® AIR;
• CONSCIOUSLY DEEP, a metal-free one-step scouring and dyeing system for medium to very dark colored nylons that stay deep and bright day after day, and are good for you and the planet;
• EARTH SOFT, a biomass-based and vegan softening system that is suitable for all kind of fibers and makes you comfortable in your own skin;
• NATURE BOUND, a compostable binder system for food filtration materials that protect you and the planet;
• ODOR CONTROL 2.0, a system for odor-free sportswear where permastink cannot build up on your favorite clothes, that’s applicable on polyester, cotton and nylon; ➔ based on the new OX20;
• RAG N’ROLL, a compostable binder system for nonwoven cleaning rags, that protect you and the planet;
• SAFE SEATS NextGen, a PFC-free* and halogen-free* modular surface treatment system for safer and cleaner seating materials, ➔ based on the new Smartrepel® Hydro SR;
• SWEET DREAMS, a metal and particle free* system that redefines protection for mattress ticking fabrics, with long-lasting hygiene and outstanding softness, that protects you and the environment;
• TAKE A BREATH, an enhanced filtration system that keeps your air clean and fresh for longer putting health first and your competition behind;

2 booth events
A WORLD WITHOUT ODORS, FIGHT OR FLIGHT?
Innovation highlight: Biocide-free OX20 odor management solution by SANITIZED AG

Speakers:

• Nuria Estape, Panel Moderator, Head of Marketing & Promotion, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma
• Georg Lang, Head of CC Finishing, Archroma
• Stefan Müller, Head of BU Textiles Additives Sanitized
• Yann Ribourdouille , Global registration expert Product Stewardship, Archroma

A WORLD WITHOUT PFC, DREAM OR REALITY?
Innovation highlight: PFC-free* Smartrepel® Hydro SR

Speakers

• Nuria Estape, Panel Moderator, Head of Marketing & Promotion, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma
• Roland Borufka, Head of Competence Center Repellents, Archroma
• Wolfgang Knaup, Head of R&D repellents, Archroma
• Yann Ribourdouille, Global registration expert Product Stewardship, Archroma

The ITMC 2022 conference, which will take place at the BAnQ from September 19 to 21, 2022, is aimed at attendees from various sectors of the textile industry. Its interdisciplinary approach is the key to maximizing the potential and development of textile materials and tools for various applications. The objective of the conference is to explore new ideas, effective solutions and collaborative partnerships for business growth by creating synergy between designers, manufacturers, suppliers, students and end users from all sectors and fully exploiting this potential.

The main topics are: Composites and textile reinforcement - Sustainable Production & Ecotextiles - Smart and functional textiles - Nanotechnology & Advanced Technical Textiles - Comfort & Protective Textiles - Medical Textiles - Digital Tools & Mass Customization

Keynote speakers :

• Omar Cherkaoui, ESITH : how ESITH was able to support the operators of the Moroccan textile sector during the covid-19 crisis
• Tracy Toulouse, TT : the impact and legacy of our clothing is to identify us as a nation
• Prof. Raul Fangueiro, University of Minho: fiber-based materials: from nano to macro scale
• Pierre-Alexandre Fournier, Exoskin: the role of smart textiles in the future of health
• KyoungOk Kim, Shinshu University: Patternmaking for attractive clothing for mass customization
• Marie O’Mahony, Consultant, Royal College of Art (RCA): smart materials & systems: has embracing uncertainty become vital to commercialization?
• Xianyi Zeng, Ensait: intelligent garments for online monitoring of human health and well-being
• Corinne Farace, Techtera: The collaborative approach: a major stake in meeting the challenges of tomorrow