From the Sector

• Maschenbranche beklagt erschreckende Lockdown-Schäden: „Umsatzvernichtung im großen Stil„

Nach drei Monaten im harten Lockdown ist die Stimmung in der Maschenindustrie weit unter dem Nullpunkt angelangt. „In der Branche herrschen Verzweiflung und Zorn“, sagt Martina Bandte, Präsidentin von Gesamtmasche. „Die Politik lässt uns mittelständische Hersteller im Stich.“

Der Geschäftsklimaindex zum 2. Quartal sackte steil auf -19,3 Punkte ab (Jahresanfang: -5,17) Die Erwartungsindex für die kommenden drei Monate liegt mit -16,54 Punkten weiter im extrem negativen Bereich – dabei wurde die verbandliche Geschäftsklimaumfrage vor der aktuellen Lockdown-Verlängerung bis 18. April durchgeführt. Verbandspräsidentin Martina Bandte kritisiert die unkoordinierten und wenig effektiven Corona-Maßnahmen der Regierung: „Entscheidungen einiger weniger Politiker vernichten jeden Tag Existenzen und verursachen einen drastischen Anstieg der Arbeitslosigkeit.“

Martina Bandte zieht daraus das Fazit: „Unsere Industrie hat das Vertrauen in die wirtschaftliche und sozialpolitische Kompetenz der Regierung verloren. Konstruktive Vorschläge werden konsequent ignoriert. Und bei staatlichen Hilfen wie der Überbrückungshilfe III werden wir sogar wissentlich diskriminiert. Als Korrektiv bleibt uns nur noch der Rechtsweg.“

Die Umsatzeinbrüche in der Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie waren bereits im Jahr 2020 beispiellos. Die Modebranche trifft es besonders hart: Nach Umsatzverlusten von gut 20 Prozent hat sie bereits knapp 9 Prozent ihrer Beschäftigten entlassen müssen. „Richtig bitter wird es aber erst im laufenden Jahr“, sagt Martina Bandte. Im nächsten Quartal muss fast ein Fünftel der Hersteller Personal abbauen. Kaufkraft und Konsumlaune dürften sich angesichts der desolaten Zustände in vielen Teilen der Wirtschaft in Grenzen halten.

• Ausstieg aus dem Lockdown Bedingung für neues Wachstum

Nach Wochen des harten Lockdowns ohne Aussicht auf Verbesserung der Lage ist der Geschäftsklimaindex der deutschen Maschenbranche zum 1. Quartal auf einem neuen Tiefpunkt. Martina Bandte, Präsidentin von Gesamtmasche, fordert die Politik auf, klare Perspektiven aufzuzeigen und jegliche Maßnahmen zu unterlassen, die neues Wachstum beeinträchtigen würden. „Industrie und Handel müssen jetzt durch ein umsichtiges Konzept der Wiederöffnung ermutigt werden. Gedankenspiele zu Steuererhöhungen sind das völlig falsche Signal.“

Die Maßnahmen zur Bekämpfung der Corona-Pandemie hätten 2020 zu beispiellosen Umsatzeinbrüchen in der Textil- und Modeindustrie geführt. Nach schwachen Erholungszeichen im Herbst habe der Winterlockdown die Branche in größte Bedrängnis gebracht. Der Geschäftsklimaindex der Maschenindustrie fiel auf ein neues Tief von -5,17 Punkten (Oktober 2020: 7,9 Punkte). Die Zukunft sehen die Hersteller der Branche noch um einiges düsterer: der Erwartungsindex für das nächste Quartal stürzte auf einen Negativwert von -14,29. Ein Drittel der Hersteller gab an, aktuell unrentabel zu arbeiten. Für das kommende Quartal befürchten dies 47 Prozent der Firmen. Nur 7 Prozent erwarten eine Verbesserung ihrer Lage. Fast ein Fünftel der Firmen will aufgrund weiter sinkender Kapazitätsauslastung die Personalstärke reduzieren.

„Zahlreiche Händler öffnen ihre Türen nie wieder. Jeder weitere Tag im Lockdown vernichtet weitere Existenzen und bedeutet für viele Menschen Arbeitslosigkeit. Es ist höchste Zeit für den Abschied vom Gießkannenprinzip des allgemeinen Herunterfahrens – und für den Abschied von der Staatswirtschaft, die inzwischen Einzug gehalten hat“, fordert Martina Bandte. „Wachstum erreicht man nur durch wirtschaftliche Aktivität. Der Bund rechnet für die Jahre 2020 und 2021 mit Zusatzausgaben von 1,5 Billionen Euro. Der Fiskus würde sich das verteilte Geld gerne durch Steuererhöhungen zurückzuholen. Nach zahlreichen Insolvenzen, die wir erwarten müssen, und einem sprunghaften Anstieg der Arbeitslosigkeit wäre das der komplett falsche Weg, wenn wir hinwollen zu neuem Wirtschaftswachstum, zurück in die Ertragszone."

Das staatliche Umweltzeichen Blauer Engel für Textilien (DE-UZ 154) trägt zum Ziel der Bundesregierung bei, den Anteil nachhaltig produzierter Textilien in der öffentlichen Beschaffung deutlich zu erhöhen. Der 2023 aktualisierte „Leitfaden der Bundesregierung für eine nachhaltige Textilbeschaffung der Bundesverwaltung“ definiert klare soziale und ökologische Kriterien entlang der gesamten Textil-Lieferkette. Als vergaberechtskonformes Gütezeichen erleichtert der Blaue Engel Beschaffungsstellen des Bundes, die Vorgaben zu erfüllen. Unternehmen bietet der Blaue Engel für Textilien damit klare Wettbewerbsvorteile bei öffentlichen Ausschreibungen.

Für Unternehmen und Brands ist die Zertifizierung ihrer Produkte mit dem Blauen Engel ein Wettbewerbsvorteil, wenn sie sich auf öffentliche Ausschreibungen im Textilbereich bewerben. Dies ergibt sich aus dem neuen Leitfaden der Bundesregierung für eine nachhaltige Textilbeschaffung.

Der Leitfaden ist ein Ergebnis des Maßnahmenprogramms Nachhaltigkeit der Bundesregierung. Er adressiert alle Ebenen des Vergabeverfahrens: Eignungskriterien, Ausschluss- und Zuschlagskriterien sowie Ausführungsbedingungen. Indem er neben ökologischen auch soziale Kriterien aufstellt, ist er ein Novum. Adressiert werden drei Produktgruppen: Bekleidungstextilien, Bettwaren und Bettwäsche sowie Matratzen. Für die Bundesverwaltung gelten somit klar definierte und verbindliche Nachhaltigkeitskriterien für die Textilbeschaffung.  

Die Blauer Engel-Kriterien bilden die Grundlage bei der Herleitung der Umweltverträglichkeit von Textilien, die die Bundesverwaltung bestellt. Öffentliche Beschafferinnen und Beschaffer können pauschal auf den Blauen Engel verweisen, da der Blaue Engel für Textilen ein vergaberechtskonformes Gütezeichen ist. Alternativ können die einzelnen Kriterien einschließlich Nachweise als Ausschluss- oder Zuschlagskriterien genutzt werden.

Der Blaue Engel ist zudem auch als Voraussetzung für die Zertifizierung mit dem Grünen Knopf, dem Textilsiegel des BMZ (Bundesministerium für wirtschaftliche Zusammenarbeit und Entwicklung) anerkannt – seit 2021 sowohl im ökologischen als auch im sozialen Bereich.

Der Leitfaden wird den Beschaffungsstellen des Bundes Anfang 2021 im Rahmen einer öffentlichen Informationsveranstaltung vorgestellt.

Starting on December 8, professionals from the whole composites value chain across the globe will be able to meet online, network, and build long-lasting relationships thanks to the JEC Summit Sport & Health. The goal of this event is to allow decision-makers to learn about the current challenges and opportunities of the sports and medical fields, this thanks to the three-day program integrating keynote speeches, industry sessions, workshops, startups, and business meetings.

Please read attached document for more information about the program.

• World Cotton Day on 7 October Highlights the Importance of Cotton for Development Policy

Bremen - Stemming from a 2019 initiative of the African Cotton-4 countries Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali, World Cotton Day will take place this year on 7 October. The event is organised by the Geneva-based World Trade Organisation (WTO) and is supported by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO), the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the International Trade Centre (ITC) and the International Cotton Secretariat (ICAC). The Bremen Cotton Exchange is also involved.

“Cotton is often underestimated because it is so natural. Behind it are millions of people, for example many farmers, field workers, employees in ginning factories, logistics providers and traders. We want to honour their achievements,” said the President of the Bremen Cotton Exchange, Stephanie Silber.

According to the WTO, the aim of World Cotton Day is to highlight the global economic importance of cotton and to raise awareness of the raw material by recognising the work of everyone involved in its cultivation, processing and trade. At the same time, within the framework of international cooperation, it is hoped that supporters and investors can be found to aid with technological and economic progress within the cotton value chain.

This time, the entire world cotton community will be involved in World Cotton Day on Wednesday, 7 October 2020. A wide variety of campaigns and events are taking place everywhere to draw attention to the importance of cotton and its possible uses.

Cotton is one of the most relevant agricultural raw materials in the world. Around 26 million tonnes of it are harvested annually. Approximately 150 million people in almost 80 countries around the world live from the cultivation of the natural fibre. A large number of these live in developing countries, where cotton cultivation is of particular importance as a cash crop.

Cotton is known as an agricultural product that is turned into a textile. The raw material is indispensable in fashion and clothing – and has been for thousands of years. But the use of cotton now goes far beyond textiles. For example, cosmetic products such as hand creams and hair shampoo are made from the oil of cotton seeds. The raw material is also used in the manufacture of banknotes, furniture and technical textiles, as well as in medical technology.

Against the background of the current discussion on sustainability and sustainable consumption, the role of natural fibres is becoming even more important. Cotton is biodegradable and a renewable resource. It can be grown again and again in agriculture through cultivation in crop rotation. This secures incomes and enables efficient value creation within the global production and processing chain.

The Bremen Cotton Exchange will actively support World Cotton Day with cross-media coverage. In addition, in time for World Cotton Day, three thematically different, emotionally appealing short films about cotton will be launched. They are aimed at consumers as customers of the textile and clothing trade and provide information about the benefits and properties of cotton and answer questions about its sustainability. In keeping with the times, they will be published via virtual media.

• Energy efficiency will be the topic of VDMA’s next edition of Textile Machinery Webtalks on 27 August 2020 (2 pm - 4 pm CEST).  

Efficient energy management is of increasing importance in textile dyeing and finishing. Innovative machine designs with minimal water and energy consumption as well as the recovery and use of the heat energy produced in the processes represent valuable potential savings for any modern company.

The presenters at a glance:

• Ludger Sommer, Thies, will show how to manage heat energy in wetprocessing.
• Benjamin Schnabel, Brückner Textilmaschinen is going to demonstrate how to make one of the most energy consuming processes in textile manufacturing more sustainable, eco-friendly and cost effective.
• Fabian Buckenmayer, PLEVA Sensors and Controls will inform about the specific opportunities for an energy-efficient textile production via measuring and controlling process parameters.  

After the presentations, the experts will be available to answer the participants' questions. The webtalk series is very well received by the textile industry. During the first three webtalks, VDMA welcomed almost 900 registered participants from more than 50 countries. Registration is still possible.

Carbon dioxide-based fibre for climate protection and interdisciplinary training with novel Smart Textiles test rig

The Wilhelm-Lorch-Stiftung, based in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, honours a project of the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, and awards a sponsorship prize to the ITA graduate Ricarda Wissel on 25 June 2020. She is awarded for her outstanding bachelor thesis " Implementation of elastic yarns made from carbon dioxide based thermoplastic polyurethane in socks " with funding for a subject-specific continuation of her education. The ITA receives the project sponsorship prize for the project "Smart Textiles - an interdisciplinary training course to promote young scientists in future technologies", which was submitted to the Wilhelm-Lorch-Stiftung by ITA´s PhD candidate Simon Kammler.

Carbon dioxide-based fibre from industrial waste contributes to climate protection

ITA scientist Dr.-Ing. Pavan Manvi has developed a melt spinning process at ITA for the production of elastic yarn from thermoplastic polyurethane, in which carbon dioxide is used as one of the raw materials. In her bachelor thesis, Ricarda Wissel successfully developed a process chain for the CO2-based yarn in a textile end product for the first time. In cooperation with the company FALKE and Dr Manvi, who supervised Ms. Wissel's work, the yarn was used to produce a sock (see figure "FALKE sock with carbon dioxide filaments").

By reusing carbon dioxide from industrial waste as a raw material for textile and clothing products, the carbon dioxide balance can be improved and thus contributes directly to climate protection. The sponsorship prize of the Wilhelm-Lorch-Stiftung is endowed with 6,000 € for the specialist further training of Ms. Wissel.

Interdisciplinary training with development of a new type of measuring stand for the future-oriented research field "Smart Textiles

The development of textiles with additional digital functions, so-called "Smart Textiles", is considered a future-oriented field of research. In his project submission, ITA´s doctoral candidate Simon Kammler presented a concept for a lecture series on Smart Textiles at ITA and develops a new type of measuring stand for measuring the capacity and conductivity of fibres. The project is funded by the Wilhelm-Lorch-Stiftung with a prize money of 10,000 Euro.

Smart Textiles enable the textile to interact with the environment and the human user. Today they are therefore in demand in many areas of everyday life such as sport, health, living, life and mobility and offer completely new practical solutions. In combination with digital networked services, Smart Textiles promise support and innovation in almost all situations of daily life.

With the conception of a new lecture series, Mr. Simon Kammler is supporting ITA in its goal of providing the best possible training for young scientists. The focus is on imparting far-reaching interdisciplinary skills in order to master the challenges of current fields of research.

Background:

The Wilhelm-Lorch-Stiftung supports particularly talented young people from all areas of the textile industry. Its purpose is the promotion of subject-specific education and further education as well as the promotion of projects at universities, academic schools and vocational schools, which are characterised by the sustainable communication of innovative learning content in science and research. In total, thirteen sponsorship prizes were awarded in 2020. Due to the Corona crisis, the forum of TextilWirtschaft, which is normally the venue for the awards ceremony, unfortunately had to be cancelled in 2020.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement, urging the government to institute Buy American policy changes to help bolster U.S. manufacturers producing personal protective equipment (PPE) for frontline workers battling the COVID-19 pandemic.

“If the government is sincere about reconstituting a U.S. production chain for medical personal protective equipment (PPE) to resolve the drastic shortages we are experiencing during the current pandemic, it is going to have to make key policy changes to help incentivize domestic production. A strong Buy American mandate for these vital healthcare materials needs to be instituted for all federal agencies, coupled with other reasonable production incentives, to help ensure a strong U.S.  manufacturing base for these essential products.

Our government already has an existing example of such a mandate that serves as an excellent model. The U.S. Department of Defense operates under a fiber-to-finished product Buy American rule for military textiles. This rule ensures that the vital textile materials our U.S. warfighters depend upon, come from a secure domestic production chain that cannot be severed during a military emergency by offshore entities.

There is a bipartisan call for action as members of Congress on both sides of the aisle have begun to acknowledge the need for these types of reasonable and essential policy changes.

Anything short of fully instituting domestic purchase requirements through Executive Order and other legislative initiatives will ensure that PPE production through U.S. supply chains that have been created overnight don’t evaporate as soon as this crisis is over.  

In the midst of the crisis, our failure to confront this challenge will allow for a repeat of the sins of the past that allowed sourcing agents to offshore the entire production of medical PPE in search of lucrative profits. While chasing the lowest cost import may have seemed cost effective at the time, these past few months have demonstrated that we paid a deadly price through this approach by jeopardizing the very lives of frontline medical personnel that are fighting the pandemic.   

This is a national security issue. It’s also a vital healthcare issue and it is decision time for U.S. policymakers. If our country is to be prepared for future deadly pandemics such as the one it is now facing, reasonable policy changes need to be implemented to ensure that we strengthen our domestic supply chain to address America’s security, safety and healthcare requirements.”

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers, including artificial and synthetic filament and fiber producers. 

Coalition of Iconic American Apparel Brands & Textile Companies Heeds Call of Nation to Produce Medical Face Masks

A coalition of iconic American apparel brands and textile companies, responding to the urgent call of the White House for medical supplies, have come together to build a supply chain virtually overnight and fast-track the manufacturing of medical face masks to help hospitals, health care workers and citizens battling the spread of the COVID-19 disease.

Parkdale Inc.-- the largest yarn spinner in the U.S. headquartered in North Carolina—helped lead the effort to build the coalition with Hanesbrands, Fruit of the Loom and six other companies to set up a manufacturing supply chain and begin ramping up production of the masks.

The coalition consists of iconic American brands such as Hanesbrands and Fruit of the Loom, often competitors in the marketplace, who are banding together for the greater good of a nation facing one if its most monumental challenges.

American Giant, Los Angeles Apparel, AST Sportswear, Sanmar, America Knits, Beverly Knits and Riegel Linen are also part of the coalition working tirelessly to respond to a national emergency in the nation’s time of need.

Dr. Peter Navarro, assistant to the President and director of the White House Office of Trade and Manufacturing Policy, worked with the coalition and helped expedite the production of these masks. The first face masks have been approved by the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

The companies expect to begin production on Monday and will make the first deliveries by mid-week.

They are dedicating their assets, resources and manufacturing capacities to create a high output of facemasks. Once fully ramped up in four to five weeks, the companies expect to produce up to 10 million facemasks per week in the United States and in Central America.

If companies are interested in dedicating resources to help the cause, please reach out to the National Council of Textile Organizations at kellis@ncto.org

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers, including artificial and synthetic filament and fiber producers.
 

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 594,147 in 2018.  
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $76.8 billion in 2018.  
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $30.1 billion in 2018.  
• Capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaled $2.0 billion in 2017, the last year for which data is available.

NCTO Supports Administration’s Proposals on Economic Stimulus in Coronavirus Response; Rejects Importer Attempts to Remove China 301 Tariffs on Finished Products

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, issued a statement today welcoming the Trump administration’s proposals on an economic stimulus package to gird the economy against the impact of the coronavirus outbreak. But the organization urged officials to reject any attempts by importers to remove China 301 tariffs on finished products as part of any relief package.

“The president has outlined the need for a broad economic stimulus package that would include various tax incentives to help impacted industries and workers. We support the administration’s efforts to bolster the economy as a response to the coronavirus outbreak, while opposing add-ons to any stimulus package designed to exploit the crisis,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

As part of a Phase One deal with China, the administration reduced duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept.1 from 15 percent to 7.5 percent.

Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S. imports from China in the sector; while fiber, yarn, and fabric imports from China only represent 6.5 percent, according to government data.