From the Sector

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the three finalists for the World of Wipes Innovation Award®. The Award will be presented at the annual World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 17-20, at the Hyatt Regency Minneapolis in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

The three products vying for this Award are multi-purpose cleaning wipes from Kimberly-Clark Professional, a bio-binder technology from OrganoClick, and facial care wipes from Rockline Industries. The winner will be announced on Thursday morning, June 20th.

The three companies competing for the Award are:

• Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes by Kimberly-Clark Professional:
  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are great for tackling extreme cleaning tasks, like removing oil, grease, grime, paint, adhesives, caulk, and more, yet are gentle enough to clean hands.  Featuring a patented citrus cleaning solution, the dual-action cleaning fabric incorporates a textured side to increase scrubbing action for cleaning tough soils and a smooth side for wiping surfaces clean.  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are truly a must-have for any DIY job and cleaning on-the-go.
• OC-Biobinder® Lily1450 by OrganoClick:
  OC-Biobinder® represents a series of bio-based and biodegradable binders intended for the nonwoven and paper industry. They are produced from renewable raw materials and residual streams from the food industry and replace traditional fossil-based plastic binders. OC-Biobinder® is available with many different properties adapted to the production of home compostable nonwoven materials such as premium napkins, table cloths and wet wipes.
• Facial Care Wipe with Glycine Amino Acid Complex by Rockline Industries:
  Rockline’s development of a facial wipe product containing a unique multifunctional complex of two glycines, a phospholipid compound and a blend of glycols allows for a multitude of skincare benefits as well as providing a self-preserving system for cellulosic nonwovens. Believed to be the first application of glycines in a wet wipe formulation, the product offers improved skin smoothness, elasticity, and hydration alongside an anti-aging claim.

INDA’s Technical Advisory Board selected the finalists based on the creativity, uniqueness, and technical sophistication employed in finding novel ways to expand the utilization of nonwovens. Categories considered for the award were wipes-related raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives, and end-use products.

The 2023 World of Wipes Innovation Award winner was Indorama Ventures and Polymateria for their Nonwoven Wipe Using Biotransformation Technology. This innovative spunlace wipe utilized advanced biotransformation technology developed jointly by Indorama Ventures and Polymateria. Meeting the BSI PAS 9017 specification, this wipe in the event it becomes fugitive, and exposed to heat, sunlight, air and moisture will transform into a harmless, bioavailable wax at its end-of-life, eliminating microplastic pollution. Compatible with mechanical recycling and combatting 'fugitive' waste, this wipe represents a significant leap towards eco-friendly, sustainable nonwoven hygiene products.

• Sales Volume rose 3% QoQ and 2% YoY to 3.55MT
• Adjusted EBITDA of $366M, a rise of 32% QoQ and a decline of 2% YoY
• Operating cash flows of $184M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.12
• Reported EPS of THB0.17

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported an improved quarterly performance as the prolonged destocking trend showed further signs of easing. During the quarter, the company progressed its IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to enhance earnings quality and transform its business to emerge stronger from the downturn in global chemical markets.

Indorama Ventures’ reported Adjusted EBITDA1  of $366 million in 1Q24, a 32% increase QoQ and a 2% decline YoY. Sales volume grew 3% QoQ as the widespread customer destocking that sapped demand through 2023 shows signs of a gradual recovery across all sectors, partially offset by a winter freeze in the U.S. The result was supported by lower utilities costs in Europe, Red Sea-related supply chain disruptions that benefited the company’s import parity advantages, and favorable shale gas economics that bolstered profitability in the U.S.

Indorama Ventures expects the recovery in volumes to continue through 2024, albeit at a gradual pace as destocking normalizes and the approaching summer supports demand. However, the overall landscape for the global chemical industry remains challenging due to excess capacity builds, as well due to persistent inflation and high interest rates which weigh on industry spreads and continue to impair profitability, especially across the polyester value chain. Our HVA segment ‘Indovinya’ is progressing well into the second quarter post the easing of destocking and anticipating a healthy 2024.

The company’s experienced management remains intensely focused on managing costs, optimizing competitiveness, and maintaining high liquidity. Indorama Ventures’ diverse geographical footprint is a key advantage in the current low-margin environment, allowing its businesses to maintain their strong market premium, supported by protection from trade and non-trade barriers.

In 1Q, the company made headway with its IVL 2.0 three-year plan to leverage its global leadership position and forge a new era of opportunity amid significant structural changes in chemical markets. Under the evolved strategy, which the company outlined at its annual Capital Markets Day in March, Indorama Ventures is optimizing assets, reducing debt, and focusing on generating free cash flow to deliver enhanced shareholder returns. Today, 70% of the company's revenue has deployed the SAPS/4HANA ERP and is using the infrastructure to enhance digital procurement, sales excellence, and integration of supply chains across the business. The company believes these AI tools will improve productivity and costs, as well as release working capital in line with its modernization strategy.

As part of IVL 2.0, the company is optimizing 7 sites, including the ongoing evaluation of its PTA/PET operation in the Netherlands. It has also made significant progress in its program to refinance $1.1 billion of debt within the first half of 2024 to ensure ample liquidity. Recent capital raisings include a $255 million ‘Ninja loan’, a THB 10 billion debenture, a $100M bi-lateral loan, and this week’s successful close of a $500 million syndicated loan – achieved at lower-than-average spreads compared to previous issuances.

To unlock value, Indorama Ventures is preparing its packaging and surfactants businesses for IPOs. From 1Q24, the Indovinya segment (previously named ‘Integrated Oxides and Derivatives’) is focused on developing its attractive downstream surfactants operations as a separate segment. The segment’s Intermediate Chemicals business, consisting of shale base integrated Ethylene MEG, MTBE and merchant Purified EO assets, have been moved under the Combined PET (CPET) segment where they are a natural fit.

Segment Performances
In 1Q24, CPET segment (including Intermediate Chemicals) posted Adjusted EBITDA of $249 million, a 34% gain QoQ and 4% YoY as supply chain disruptions and a consequent spike in global ocean freight rates supported high prices and margins, and as Western markets benefited from lower energy costs. The Indovinya segment reported a stable Adjusted EBITDA of $70 million, impacted by the winter freeze in the U.S and a mini turnaround at a PO/PG plant. The Fibers segment achieved a remarkable 73% increase in Adjusted EBITDA to $39 million QoQ, and 2% YoY, as destocking waned across all three business verticals and drove an 8% QoQ increase in volume.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and AFS, the American Filtration & Separations Society, announce their strategic partnership to create the FiltXPO™ 2025 Conference Program. FiltXPO, the International Filtration Conference & Exhibition, will co-locate with IDEA®25 from April 29 to May 1, 2025, in the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida.

The theme for FiltXPO 2025 is “The Future of Filtration: Advancing Technology, Performance & Sustainability.” The two-day FiltXPO conference program will feature technical insights into filtration innovations and technologies from industry professionals worldwide. INDA and AFS will issue a call for abstracts in the next few weeks.

Zum 11. Internationalen bvse-Alttextiltag lädt der Fachverband Textilrecycling in diesem Jahr vom 4. bis zum 5. Juni 2024 nach Dresden ein.

Neben den aktuellen Themen, wie sinkenden Qualitäten bei gesammelten Alttextilien und der durch Fast-Fashion Konsum hervorgerufenen Probleme für das hochwertige Textilrecycling, wird die bvse-Tagung in diesem Jahr ihr Augenmerk auf die Recyclingverfahren legen, die zukünftig einen Teil der textilen Kreislaufwirtschaft bilden werden.

„Chemische Verfahren – Neuer Stoffstrom“ sind die Schlagworte, die am Dienstag, 4. Juni, neue innovative Textilrecyclingverfahren ankündigen, die nach der Tagungseröffnung durch bvse-Hauptgeschäftsführer Eric Rehbock durch Fachexpert: innen vorgestellt werden.

Kann der Weg zu einer zirkulären Textil- und Kreislaufwirtschaft durch ein neues chemisches Verfahren zum Monomer-Recycling von PET-Kunststoffen und Polyesterabfällen gelingen? Einblicke dazu gewährt Ben Rump, Geschäftsführer von matterr. Wie der Entwicklungsprozess bei der chemischen Verwandlung alter Textilien in Zellulose- und Polyesterkomponenten vom Labor bis zum Markt aussieht, erklärt der Mitbegründer des Startup-Unternehmens eeden GmbH, Steffen Gerlach.

Bringt vielleicht ein neues Faser-zu-Faser-Verfahren, das ganz ohne Chemie auskommt, den Durchbruch? Über den TURNS®-Faserkreislauf als Textilrevolution aus Franken berichtet die Mitbegründerin des im April 2023 gegründeten Startups TURNS GmbH, Katja Wagner. Anschließend teilt Klaus Wohnig (Atmedio GmbH) sein langjähriges Expertenwissen zu Alttextilien und dem Chemischen Kunststoffrecycling mit den anwesenden Teilnehmern und Branchenexperten. Der Tagungstag endet mit einem ersten Fazit des bvse-Vizepräsidenten und Fachverbandsvorsitzenden, Stefan Voigt, und des Fachreferenten für das Textilrecycling, Thomas Fischer.

Am Mittwoch, 5. Juni, konzentriert sich das Tagungsprogramm auf mögliche Modelle eines Systems der erweiterten Herstellerverantwortung (EPR) für Alttextilien in Deutschland sowie die Sichtweise der betroffenen Stakeholder:innen darauf.

Zunächst startet André Rückert, Projektmanager bei der ECOLOGICON, mit Beschreibungen der praktischen und operativen Herausforderungen bei der Umsetzung eines EPR-Szenarios. Jonas Stracke, der sich als Textil-Ingenieur eng an der Schnittstelle zwischen Textil-/ Bekleidungsindustrie und Abfallwirtschaft befindet und nun beim Gesamtverband Textil- und Mode maßgeblich an der Entwicklung und Umsetzung nachhaltiger Strategien innerhalb der Branche beteiligt ist, gibt einen Einblick dazu, was EPR aus Sicht der Inverkehrbringer abdecken sollte.

Welche Rolle die angewandten Wissenschaften in den Prozessen des Textilsektors spielen, der durch aktuelle politische Regulierungen auf nationaler und europäischer Ebene immer weiter vorangetrieben wird, und wie sich Unternehmen daran beteiligen können, erläutert anschließend die wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiterin im Bereich Produkte und Stoffströme des Öko-Instituts, Clara Löw.

Wie wichtig verlässliche Qualitätssicherungsmaßnahmen für die Sicherstellung von Inputqualitäten bei Recyclingunternehmen sind, weiß der Gründer der SRE GmbH und langjährige Branchenexperte, Thomas Staudt, genau. Sein Vortrag dreht sich um ein Modell zur Faserqualitätsbestimmung.

Ein abschließendes Podium bietet die Gelegenheit, die vorgetragenen Impulse der Referent: innen im Gespräch mit den Teilnehmenden noch einmal unter Moderation gemeinsam zu vertiefen und weitere relevante und aktuelle Themen der Branche zu diskutieren.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement welcoming the appointment of Katherine White as Chief Textiles and Apparel Negotiator for the U.S. Trade Representative’s Office (USTR).

“Katherine White is an excellent choice for the critical position of Chief Textiles and Apparel Negotiator. We are also grateful to U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Katherine Tai for elevating this position back to a political appointee role, which is historically how it has been designated.

Katherine comes to this position with an outstanding resume, including a strong knowledge base and expertise in manufacturing policy and on textile-related trade issues, having worked most recently as an International Trade Policy Advisor on the House Ways and Means Committee, and prior to that, at the U.S. Department of Commerce and the White House.

Given the prominence of both the agency and her political appointment, we know she will play a highly instrumental role in shaping policy impacting our industry. She is a fantastic choice.  We thank Ambassador Tai for the redesignation of this critical office and her support for our textile industry and its workforce. We also sincerely thank Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama for her service in the role through this transition.

We could not be more delighted to work with Katherine in her new capacity and look forward to coordinating with her on manufacturing and worker-centered trade policy that will help bolster the vital domestic textile sector.”

Der Mittelstand ist das Rückgrat der deutschen Wirtschaft. Statistische Zahlen in einschlägigen Internetportalen beschreiben das. In Deutschland gab es im Jahr 2021 rund 3,15 Millionen kleine und mittlere Unternehmen. Damit machen die KMU über 99 Prozent aller Unternehmen in Deutschland aus. Sie tragen mit rund 61 Prozent zur gesamten Netto-Wertschöpfung bei, stellen 55 Prozent der Arbeitsplätze und beschäftigen 80 Prozent der Auszubildenden.  

Insbesondere die Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie ist klein und mittelständisch strukturiert. Über 70 Prozent der produzierenden Unternehmen des Verbandes haben weniger als 50, nur 18 Prozent mehr als 100 Mitarbeiter. Neue bzw. erweiterte Regulierungen mit umfangreichen Nachweispflichten, wie das Lieferkettensorgfaltspflichtengesetz oder die Lieferkettenrichtlinie der EU, die Nachhaltigkeitsberichterstattungsrichtlinie oder die in Arbeit befindliche EU-Regelung zu entwaldungsfreien Lieferketten, überfordern die Unternehmen oder können aufgrund fehlender Ressourcen schlichtweg nicht geleistet werden, so der Verband. Beteuerungen der Politik, dass ja nur große Unternehmen davon betroffen seien, wären, wie die Praxis zeige, falsch.     

Ohne eine auf den Mittelstand ausgerichtete Wirtschaftspolitik bestehe die Gefahr des Rückgangs und des Verlusts der industriellen Leistungsfähigkeit des Landes. Auch die Arbeitsplätze würden verloren gehen. Der zunehmende Bürokratieaufwand und Nachweispflichten müssten auf ein absolut notwendiges und für den Mittelstand ertragbares Maß reduziert werden.   

Umsätze / Konjunktur
Die meisten der Verbandsmitglieder klagen über sinkende Umsätze und rückläufige Auftragseingänge.  

Die puren Umsatzzahlen bildeten die reale Situation in den Unternehmen nicht mehr ab. Durch den Einfluss der Inflation in Form gestiegener Kosten in allen Bereichen, wüchsen zwar die Umsätze, jedoch die Erträge schmelzen. Zu den Kostentreibern zählen Energie (sowohl Strom als auch Gas), Rohstoffe, Aufwendungen für Logistik und Transport und die Arbeitskosten.

Zwar sind nach teils massiven Kostensteigerungen der Rohstoffe in 2022/2023 diese wieder auf niedrigere Niveaus gesunken, die Energiepreise bleiben jedoch auf einem historisch hohen und nicht wettbewerbsfähigen Niveau. Damit ist insbesondere die Textilindustrie im Nordosten mit einem Exportanteil von 48 Prozent zunehmend gefährdet.

Die Umsätze der ostdeutschen Textilindustrie (> 50 MA) sind nach einem relativ stabilen Jahr 2023 zum Jahresende deutlich weggebrochen. Der Dezember-Umsatz verlor zum Dezember 2022 ca. 9 Prozent. Besonders die Bekleidungsindustrie geriet 2023 unter extremen Druck. Geradezu dramatisch präsentierte sich für beide Sparten der Januar 2024: Textil verlor 10 Prozent, die Bekleidung 10,9 Prozent.  

Im Jahresvergleich 2023 zu 2022 stieg der Umsatz im Textilbereich um 5 Prozent, er sank bei der Bekleidung um 16,7 Prozent. In der Gesamtbetrachtung wuchsen Textil und Bekleidung um 4,2 Prozent.
Insbesondere die Entwicklung zum Jahresende und im Januar lassen die Hoffnungen auf eine Erholung der Branche im neuen Jahr sinken.  

Wirtschaftliche Lage
In der Auswertung einer von der IG Metall durchgeführten Befragung von bundesweit über 2.500 Arbeitnehmervertretern im Februar/März 2024 warnt auch die Gewerkschaft vor verstärkter Abwanderung der Produktion ins Ausland. Über 30 Prozent der befragten Betriebe berichten von einem hohen bis sehr hohen Verlagerungsrisiko insbesondere der Produktionsbereiche. 63 Prozent der Betriebe haben noch im Herbst 2022 von einer guten bis sehr guten Lage berichtet. Im Frühjahr 2024 waren das nur noch 51 Prozent.  
 
Auch Textilunternehmen des nord-ostdeutschen Verbandsgebietes haben bereits in Produktionsstätten im Ausland investiert. Viele Betriebe lassen Produktionsschritte im osteuropäischen Ausland durchführen oder importieren Vorprodukte, die in Europa nicht mehr produziert werden. Solche Entscheidungen werden stets durch die wirtschaftspolitischen Rahmenbedingungen beeinflusst. Wettbewerbsfähige Kostenstrukturen für Energie und Rohstoffe, Rücknahme des politischen Einflusses auf die Entwicklung der Arbeitskosten und die Beachtung der regionalen Produktion insbesondere bei der öffentlichen Beschaffung können dazu beitragen, auch weiterhin Wertschöpfung durch Industrieproduktion in Deutschland möglich zu machen. 

In accordance with California’s Proper Labeling of Wet Wipes law (AB 818), state wastewater agencies and industry experts went deep to find out exactly what is passing through—and clogging up—municipal wastewater systems. The Responsible Flushing Alliance (RFA) alongside the California Association of Sanitation Agencies (CASA) and the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) released the results from the largest known domestic sewage collection study conducted to reveal what’s really being flushed down the drain – and shouldn’t be.

“We took a forensic approach to this collection study, engaging industry and wastewater experts to examine our findings and determine what exactly is being flushed and how much of it,” said Adam Link, Executive Director at CASA, a co-sponsor of the Proper Labeling of Wet Wipes Law. “Now that we have the data to see what Californians are flushing and the types of non-flushable items that are causing issues within wastewater systems, local agencies can refine their public outreach and messaging to target specific problems and educate more efficiently.”

Collection and material investigation took place in October 2023 at two locations: Inland Empire Utilities Agency (IEUA) in Southern California and Central Contra Costa Sanitary District (Central San) in the greater San Francisco Bay Area in Northern California. Wastewater and wipes experts collected, sorted and identified more than 1,700 items pulled from the two locations during peak flow times. Kennedy Jenks, an independent engineering firm, designed the study and compiled the findings into the report.

Why Study What’s Being Flushed?
When products that aren’t meant to be flushed down the toilet wind up in the sewer system, it can cause serious threats to public and environmental health. In fact, estimates show that local public agencies throughout California (and the ratepayers they represent) are spending more than $47 million annually to repair wastewater treatment equipment and respond to sewer overflows caused by improper flushing.

“Part of keeping communities healthy requires not flushing things we shouldn’t,” said Lara Wyss, President of the RFA. “However, the data to support which non-flushable items to target as part of education campaigns has been lacking. That’s likely why when we surveyed Californians about what they are flushing, the results revealed that approximately 25% think baby wipes are flushable (which is never true) and 60% self-reported that they flushed something they knew they shouldn’t have.2 Our study results reinforce that finding, as more than 99% of materials collected were items that shouldn’t have been flushed.”

The breakdown of items collected from pipes at the two study locations included:
•    34.1% wipes labeled with the “Do Not Flush” symbol (baby wipes, cleaning wipes, makeup wipes, etc.)
•    64.9% other non-flushable items (paper towels, period products, trash, etc.)
•    0.9% wipes labeled as flushable

“We pulled material larger than 1-inch square directly from the bar screens, and it wasn’t until everything was sorted and identified that we could see what we actually had,” said Matt O’Sickey, Director of Education and Technical Affairs, INDA. “There were a lot of paper towels and baby wipes and all of the ‘Do Not Flush’ labeled wipes we collected were fully intact, showcasing why they should never be flushed.”

What Not to Flush—and How We Tell Consumers
According to the Proper Wet Wipes Labeling law, manufacturers of non-flushable wipes, including products such as baby wipes, cleaning wipes, makeup removal wipes and many others that are primarily used in a bathroom setting must include the “Do Not Flush” symbol on the front of the packaging.
The #FlushSmart consumer education campaign promotes the “Do Not Flush” symbol and provides information on what should and should not be flushed. The message shared with consumers is simple: Look for the “Do Not Flush” symbol on wipes packaging, and if you see it – throw the wipe out. Extrapolating from the results of this study, refraining from flushing “Do Not Flush” labeled wipes, paper products and feminine hygiene products would capture over 90% of items clogging sewers.

The association has launched another initiative to promote upskilling and reskilling in the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear industry: the “TCLF SkillBridge” project will focus on establishing regional skills partnerships.

In the context of the EU TCLF Pact for Skills, EURATEX will work together with CEC  and COTANCE  to support the creation of regional partnerships in the area skills; this new SkillBridge project, supported by the European Commission DG GROW, will specifically help to develop action plans with regional authorities, local TCLF industry and education providers. These action plans should respond to the changing needs of the TCLF industry in the area of education and skills. The project will also offer a mobility scheme for regional stakeholders from the industry and offer support to SMEs, to help them develop reskilling or upskilling initiatives in their company.

The TCLF SkillBridge project complements the MetaSkills and Aequalis projects, which have been launched earlier this year. They all share the same objectives which have been established in the TCLF Pact for Skills, and thus contribute to addressing one of the most critical bottlenecks which is faced by the TCLF industry: the shortage of qualified labour. These 3 projects will, collectively, allow EURATEX and its partners to work with all relevant stakeholders from our sector across the EU and beyond.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, welcomes these initiatives to support the TCLF industries: “Addressing the skills gap, and attracting young people with the right set of skills, is essential to strengthen the European textiles industry. We are grateful to the European Commission to offer the necessary support, and want to reach out especially to the regional authorities, to work together and design a skills strategy that works for its local TCLF industry.”

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announces its membership to Paris Good Fashion, the association that unites over 100 French players in the sector - brands, designers and experts - around their commitment to sustainable fashion. CARBIOS is the first recycling technology supplier to join, demonstrating the importance given to recycling to achieve textile circularity. By contributing its solution for the biorecycling of polyester, the world's most widely used and fastest-growing textile fiber, CARBIOS aims to contribute Paris Good Fashion’s mission, which focuses on concrete actions, best practice sharing and collective intelligence to accelerate change in the fashion industry.

CARBIOS will be particularly involved in the association's project to set up a working group dedicated to the development of a "fiber-to-fiber" industry, one of Paris Good Fashion's top priorities over the next five years. While only 1% of textiles are currently recycled fiber-to-fiber (circular), this working group will identify levers for significantly increasing the share of recycled fibers in the industry.  Polyester currently follows a linear model from which we need to break out: virgin polyester is made from petroleum, and recycled polyester from PET bottles. After use, most of these products end their lives in landfill or incineration. A circular, "fiber-to-fiber" industry will give new life to textiles and reduce the environmental impact associated to their end-of-life management.

In the fringes of the EU Research and Innovation Days, the European Commission has announced 9 new European co-funded and co-programmed partnerships, including “Textiles of the Future”. These partnerships will be at the core of the Horizon Europe Strategic Plan 2025-2027, addressing the green and digital transition, and a more resilient, competitive, inclusive and democratic Europe.

EURATEX has been working towards such a partnership over the last few years. Investing in innovation is a critical component to successfully implement the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. EURATEX therefore welcomes the Commission’s decision, as a measure to help their 200.000 EU textile companies to remain competitive.

The Textiles of the Future Partnership will be co-managed by the European Technology Platform for Future of Textiles and Clothing (ETP). With a deep knowledge in textiles research and a vast innovation network, ETP stands ready to bring that partnership into reality.