From the Sector

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

The testing service provider and research partner Hohenstein is joining the Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn. There are already points of contact with AI applications in some interdisciplinary research projects. In addition, there is the cooperation with the Munich-based start-up Sizekick and its AI-based technology for size recommendations, which aims to reduce size-related returns in online fashion retail.

"We expect the connection to the IPAI AI network to provide us with valuable impulses to remain fit for the future," explains Hohenstein CEO Dr. Timo Hammer, "This unique platform brings together a wide variety of players with their experience and knowledge. New ideas, projects and even products can be generated with great dynamism in the network as an intelligent response to future requirements. Because one thing is clear - artificial intelligence is THE key technology of the future".

The Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn (www.ip.ai) sees itself as an innovation platform for applied AI and a German lighthouse project with international appeal. The center is intended to map the entire AI value chain, from the qualification of specialists to the application of ethically responsible AI. The aim is to use the AI ecosystem to bring together companies, start-ups, research institutions, scientists, and public institutions and to secure Germany's digital independence and competitiveness in a key future technology.

More than 82 companies, businesses and social organizations – including AkzoNobel – are involved in a major Dutch research program focused on developing new technologies that will help solve some of today’s societal challenges.
 
Seven broad consortia have been established as part of the government-funded “Perspectief” program, with AkzoNobel set to play a leading role in the SusInkCoat project, which will explore how to make inks and coatings more sustainable.

The company will work together with private partners and other societal stakeholders to develop new materials, processes and applications to improve the durability, functionality and recyclability of coatings, thin films and inks. The program, which will run for the next five years, is backed by the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Climate Policy and the Dutch Research Council (NWO).

“Our discussions about collaborating with our SusInkCoat partners have been very positive,” says AkzoNobel’s R&D Director of Scientific Academic Programs, André van Linden, who is also the co-lead of SusInkCoat. “We’re all facing the same societal challenges – how to become more circular – and we’re looking for the same solutions in different application areas. But we’ve never done that together for this specific research topic, so we need an ecosystem to help us solve these challenges.
 
Van Linden adds that the program – one of many R&D projects the company is involved with – will also support AkzoNobel’s ambition to achieve 50% less carbon emissions in its own operations – and across the value chain – by 2030.
 
 “We want to make the recyclability of materials - such as furniture, building materials and steel constructions - easier by introducing functionalities like self-healing, higher durability and triggered release,” he continues. “The more you can leave the materials in their original state, the more sustainably you can operate.”

AkzoNobel will be collaborating with Canon, Evonik, GFB, PTG and RUG Ventures, who together possess extensive knowledge of market demands, supply chains and production processes. All the SusInkCoat partners will also work with academic researchers at several Dutch universities in an effort to identify promising developments that can be commercialized, used for education purposes or for outreach to the public.

Research being conducted by the other six consortia includes investigating methods to make tastier plant-based food; flat optics for more sustainable hi-tech equipment; and cheaper and more accessible medical imaging technology.

Solvay awarded a scholarship to facilitate an educational alliance between the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Fermi High School in Cecina. The initiative unfolded during an event held at Solvay's Rosignano site in Italy, providing a platform for students and faculty. Through this partnership, 200 Fermi High School students participated in STEM* and digital lessons from MIT's Global Teaching Labs project, emphasizing the teaching of scientific disciplines by the American university.

Beyond the scholarship award ceremony, students received a tour of Solvay's factory in Rosignano. The tour highlighted the company's dedication to safety, sustainability, and bridging the gap between academia and industry challenges. The experience illustrated the practical application of academic studies in an industrial context, showcasing Solvay's advanced control procedures, safety protocols, technological innovations, digital transformation efforts, and sustainability measures.

Discussions during the event included key sustainability topics such as water conservation, energy efficiency, waste management, and Solvay's commitment to promoting a balanced work-life culture and diversity within the workplace.

This collaboration aligns with Solvay's global Corporate Citizenship program. Through this program, Solvay supports individuals and communities, channeling efforts to tackle worldwide societal challenges through strategic investments in education, sustainability, and local community initiatives.

*STEM stands for science, technology, engineering and mathematics

Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) has been awarded £50,000 of grant funding to collaborate with the University of Manchester on complex spin pack and spinneret designs. This funding will provide FET with access to the expertise of four universities and the National Physical Laboratory to develop the next generation of machinery.

The grant is awarded by a consortium led by AMPI (The Advanced Machinery and Productivity Institute) and NPL (The National Physical Laboratory). AMPI’s Innovation for Machinery (I4M) programme supports businesses in West Yorkshire and Greater Manchester as part of an overall initiative to drive innovation for the UK’s advanced machinery manufacturers to meet the challenges of developing new technology and entering emerging markets.

In this project, FET will be working with the University of Manchester to conduct computational fluid dynamics (CFD) studies on a number of complex spin pack and spinneret designs. The aim of this work is to identify areas of improvement for FET’s spin packs and spinnerets and to use computer aided designs to develop significantly more efficient versions. The goal is that the research will improve the throughput of FET extrusion systems, thus reducing the amount of polymer lost through inefficient flow paths. This development, in turn, will reduce the environmental impact of synthetic polymer processing.

FET designs, develops, and manufactures extrusion equipment for a range of high value textile material applications worldwide. Established in 1998, FET’s major strength has always been to collaborate with customers in testing, evaluating and developing high value materials with diverse, functional properties. Efficiency and sustainability are key, so enhanced development of spinneret technology will contribute significantly to these objectives.

Archroma proudly announced the continuation of its longstanding partnership with SANITIZED AG, marking collaborative success in the textile industry. This enduring alliance has been a cornerstone in driving innovation and setting industry standards, particularly for odor and hygiene management within the home textiles and apparel industry.

Archroma, one of the best chemical suppliers in the markets, further solidifies its position through the acquisition of Huntsman’s Textile Effects division in February 2023.

The acquisition enabled Archroma to broaden its global reach and technical expertise. Paired with our strong expertise in freshness additives, we enhance our marketing teams for joint communication, enhance the salesforce in the regions and strengthen our innovation force to drive the industry towards more sustainable solutions,” says Michael Lüthi, CEO of SANITIZED AG.

With a focus on strategic development, Archroma and SANITIZED AG aim to reinforce mills and brands in elevating their products by adding the value of freshness to their products and providing high-quality effects. This collaboration offers customers a flexible package, completed with application support through technical service and expertise, along with access to a strong product portfolio. Notably, the partners are ready to lead market trends and transformations, particularly in freshness finishes, ensuring their collective success in the dynamic landscape.

Disney unveiled the HoloTile floor, created by Disney Research Fellow and longtime member of Walt Disney Imagineering Research & Development Lanny Smoot.

The HoloTile floor is a multi-person, omni-directional, modular, expandable, treadmill floor. It allows any number of people to have a shared virtual reality (VR) experience, walk an unlimited distance in any direction, and never collide or walk off its surface.

The HoloTile floor can also be an insert in a theatrical stage, allowing performers to move and dance in new ways, or stage props and structures to move around or appear to set themselves up.

The new technology was revealed (see here), as Lanny Smoot is being inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame. He is the first Disney Imagineer to receive this recognition.

Smoot is also credited with giving Madame Leota her ability to “float” in the Séance Room at the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland Park; crafting the state-of-the-art extendable lightsaber used by Disney Live Entertainment; inventing the Magic Playfloor interactive game experience on the Disney Cruise Line; producing the immersive Fortress Explorations adventure at Tokyo DisneySea; and designing the virtual and interactive koi ponds at the Crystal Lotus Restaurant at Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel.

Archroma is showcasing its planet conscious innovations and solution systems at this year’s Colombiatex de Las Américas, being held from January 23 to 25, 2024.

Archroma is using its attendance at Colombiatex 2024 to introduce a new concept that promises to help the region’s brands and mills optimize their productivity, add value to their products and create a positive impact on the environment: Super Systems+.

The Super Systems+ solutions offer great performance, including end-product durability, while meeting sustainability targets with cleaner chemistries that comply with current and anticipated industry regulations or deliver resource savings, or both. Solutions are currently available for popular end-use segments, from denim to cotton and poly-cotton knits.

For black denim with a cleaner environmental footprint, brands and mills can choose DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK to create unique shade and wash-down effects with an overall impact reduction of 57% compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* For authentic blue denim, Archroma’s aniline-free** pre-reduced DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ produces coveted indigo colors with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a more planet-friendly way.

To embrace circularity and create natural shades on cellulosic-based fibers including cotton, kapok, linen and viscose, brand owners can now turn to Archroma’s patented EarthColors® technology. It makes high-performance biosynthetic dyes from non-edible natural waste, such as almond shells, bitter orange residues and cotton production byproducts, helping conserve natural resources. For next-generation processing of polyester and its blends, Archroma’s ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary combines pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath to achieve substantial savings of water, energy and time.

For weather protection and stain resistance that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, Archroma Super Systems+ draw on an extensive portfolio of fluorine-free durable water repellents.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

BTMA member Vickers Oils has marked an important milestone in its partnership with knitting machinery leader Lonati by earning Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) approval for its VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 needle oil.

VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 is a mineral-based needle lubricant designed to meet the criteria for modern knitting machine technology. It provides a high standard of lubrication as well as holding very good stability properties and having a high resistance to oxidation. The product is readily scourable and holds a well-balanced additive system meaning that it is fully compatible with all machine components. It can also be used with machines producing any yarn type – including tricky elastanes – to produce the highest quality end product.

Lonati, headquartered in Brescia, Italy, has been a prominent name in knitting machines for over 70 years, designing and manufacturing an impressive average of 8,000 annually. It places a strong emphasis on delivering the highest quality textile machinery, underpinned by a commitment to research and development that ensures the use of cutting-edge products, technologies and processes in its machines.

Vickers Oils, based in Leeds, West Yorkshire, shares these values, leading the industry in quality and assurance through its continuous focus on research and development, technological leadership, quality control and customer service. As it has done for almost two centuries – the company will mark its 200th anniversary in 2028.

Lonati is now officially recommending VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 for use in its single-cylinder GOAL series of knitting machines, marking a successful collaboration that required dedicated efforts from the teams of Lonati, Vickers Oils and its Italian representative Lubrogamma. Vickers Oils is committed to sustainable product development and VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 meets the clearly defined criteria set out by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and conforms to ZDHC MRSL Level 1 certification.

Devan will showcase the newest additions to their R-Vital NTL Range and Thermic High Cooling technology.

R-Vital® NTL enables textile manufacturers to boost their textiles with a range of active, natural ingredients that have a positive effect on the body and mind. Elements such as Chamomile oil and Arnica Montana are absorbed by the skin and have relaxing, moisturizing or hydrating effects. The biobased content of the R-Vital well-being technology is +97%, readily biodegradable (OECD 301B).

R-Vital® NTL Regenight™: Devan and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics join forces to launch a ground-breaking technology, R-Vital NTL Regenight™, a technology which improves sleep quality and also improves nighttime skin recovery. Using an upcycled oil soluble fraction obtained from Australian Tea tree oil distillation process, Regenight™ acts through both inhalation to improve nighttime rest and through topical action to provide skin recovery.

Tested in real-life context using proven biometric technology, the dual action provided individually by Regenight™ proposes a breakthrough approach to reduce the impact of poor-quality sleep on the skin.

R-Vital® NTL Chamomile oil: Chamomile oil is known for its moisturizing and soothing properties. Additionally, this oil is believed to have antioxidant and inflammatory properties. Furthermore, chamomile oil is renowned for its calming effects and potential to reduce stress and anxiety, helping improve sleep quality.

R-Vital® NTL Warming: Engineered to deliver a gentle warmth, the R-Vital NTL Warming technology ensures a cozy and comfortable sleeping experience. This blend is a solution that infuses a sense of warmth, promoting physical and emotional well-being.

R-Vital NTL Arnica Montana: Harnessing the natural benefits of Arnica Montana, this ingredient, is celebrated for its potent healing and recovering properties.

At Heimtextil Devan will also present a new high cooling technology that provides an optimal and refreshing sleeping climate, ensuring a cool and restful night's sleep. Thermic High Cooling is based on reactive microencapsulated Phase Change Materials (PCMs). The smart heat exchange mechanism keeps the body within its comfort zone. This makes the body suffer less from night sweats, and results in a longer, healthier and more comfortable sleep with fewer awakenings. This new formulation with high cooling level and high solid content, presents around 30% more cooling than standard PCM formulations. One padding allows to achieve high cooling level (no need to run multiple applications). A Bio-based version is also available - Thermic® Bio, where the PCMs are derived from sustainable, natural sources.