From the Sector

Nach knapp 100 Tagen bei Better Rich zieht Wolfgang Lohe mit einer Umsatzsteigerung von 25 Prozent erfolgreich Bilanz.

Der Lifestyle-Anbieter konnte während der Orderphase für die Saison Frühjahr/Sommer 2020 knapp 50 neue Herrenkunden und 30 neue Damenkunden für sich gewinnen und stellt als logische Konsequenz nun ein hauseigenes Vertriebsteam auf. Ab dem 1.10.2019 setzt Better Rich auf neue Vertriebsstrukturen, die eine individuellere, partnerschaftlichere Zusammenarbeit mit dem Handel ermöglichen. Zusätzlich zu Roland Gomolla (44), der bereits seit 10 Jahren die Mitte Deutschlands betreut, werden insgesamt drei neue Mitarbeiter das Vertriebsteam bei Better Rich verstärken.

Niki Wiedmann (31) und Tamara Sadjedi (29) übernehmen Süddeutschland, während Ricarda Rabe (23) den Norden verantwortet.
Die Agentur Kamm & Kamm aus Zürich ist weiterhin Ansprechpartner für die Schweiz. In Österreich wird die Agentur Kranz Fashion Agency aus Salzburg neuer Ansprechpartner. Sowohl bei den Neukunden – von denen ein nicht unerheblicher Teil als namhafte Multiplikatoren der Branche gelten – als auch bei den bestehenden Kunden aus dem gehobenen Einzelhandel, setzt Lohe auf enge Partnerschaftsmodelle und individuelle Handelslösungen.

Die Weltmeisterschaften im Gerätturnen finden in knapp einer Woche in Stuttgart statt.

Damit werden vom 4. bis zum 13. Oktober die deutschen Top-TurnerInnen gegen die Elite der Welt antreten. Auch die ERIMA MarkenbotschafterInnen Elisabeth Seitz, Sophie Scheder und Lukas Dauser kämpfen um das Ticket für die Olympischen Spiele 2020. ERIMA ist seit 2003 offizieller Ausrüster des Deutschen Turner-Bunds und vor Ort mit dabei.

Zehn Tage lang kämpft das deutsche Turn-Team um Titel, Medaillen und vor allem um die Qualifikation für die Olympischen Spiele 2020 in Tokio.
Bei der heimischen Turn-WM treten SpitzensportlerInnen aus 93 Nationen an – ein Rekord.

Doch nur die zwölf besten Mannschaften können sich das begehrte Ticket für Tokio sichern. Gemeinsam mit Lukas Dauser konnten bei den Männern auch Andreas Toba, Karim Rida, Nick Klessing und Philipp Herder als WM-Teilnehmer überzeugen. Der zunächst nominierte Marcel Nguyen fällt aufgrund einer Schulter-Verletzung aus.

Auch Teamkapitän Lukas Dauser musste hart für seinen Traum kämpfen und hat sich in kürzester Zeit von seinem Mittelhandknochenbruch erholt. Im Frauenteam haben sich neben Elisabeth Seitz und Sophie Scheder auch Emelie Petz, Kim Bui und Sarah Voss nominiert.

• Interfilière Shanghai, 26th-27th September 2019, Booth 1C11

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable features, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of Interfilière Shanghaiwith a range of developments capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality.

"Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.Experts in the production of stretch lace  since 1985 ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. 

Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS(Global Recycled Standard) for their  transformed products together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).

A relevant  achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Labelcollection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family andQ-Nova® by Fulgar.

Shanghai - ROICA™ lands in Shanghai to showcase its complete range of premium stretch fibers for the modern wardrobe and disclose its visionary approach and strategy for a cutting-edge and sustainable fashion.

On show, leading material innovator Asahi Kasei introduces a premium stretch fiber starting from the ultimate ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family. The certified and multi-awarded range has astonished the textile world for its hyper-performative features. “The new premium stretch is synonymous of transformation: from standard to speciality, from basic to special, from ordinary to clever and from standard to Smart.” Explains Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager - ROICA™ Division.

Sustainability and a responsible approach are the true core of research and development to create high-tech engineered yarns.Such visionary imprint imbues all ROICA™ innovations:

• ROICA Eco-Smart™ family: A true world-first with the most contemporary sustainable range of responsibly produced premium ingredients. ROICA Eco-Smart™ family offers 2 sustainably designed stretch yarns

- ROICA™ EF is GRS by Textile Exchange certified, thanks to the fact that more than 50% of yarn content comes from the recycling of pre-consumer waste.
- ROICA™ V550 yarn got the Cradle-to-Cradle® Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL Material Health certificate for impacts on human and environmental health. This yarn is also Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificated, signifying at its end-of-life, ROICA ™ yarn smartly breaks down without releasing harmful materials.

• ROICA Feel Good™ family: A unique range of advanced stretch yarns that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness, freshness and comfort metrics for travel, sport, leisure and more.
   
• ROICA Colour Perfect™ family: A range of yarns that can give excellent, flawless and world unique colour dimensions in advanced fit solutions.
   
• ROICA Resistance™ family: A high performance range of stretch solutions with performance resistance designed for match particular applications.
   
• ROICA Contour™ family: A range of yarns that create new shaping, stretch and silhouette solutions for a calibrated fit, effortless control, softness, comfort and support.

ROICA™ already entered the most advanced collections of leading brands as: Wolford for exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, Sarah Borghi for hosiery, SITA Active for Smart pret-a-porter,  Daquini for athleisure, Livy for sensual lingerie, SCOTT Racing Team for cycling uniforms, Closed for denim, Un-Sanctioned for running suits, Vitamine A for beachwear and many others.

In Shanghai, ROICA™ is set to stand out as leader in Smart Innovation. As tangible proof of this, the company brings to Intertextile Shanghai some of its ultimate collaborations across China and the Far East.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Textilhersteller beteiligt sich an Prismatek

Mit Wirkung zum 1.7.2019 hat Schmitz Textiles Gesellschafteranteile des US-Unternehmens Prismatek International LLC erworben, um die nordamerikanische Expansion voranzutreiben. Im amerikanischen Markt ist das 1989 gegründete Familienunternehmen eine gesetzte Größe: Als einer der führenden Importeure und Großhändler für Textilien aus Europa ist Prismatek durch ein Partnernetzwerk und Showrooms landesweit präsent. Am Sitz in Cape Coral, Florida, befinden sich Lager- und Konfektionskapazitäten. Zukünftig wird Prismatek unter der Führung von CEO Anke Kondek als Schmitz Textiles firmieren. Dabei wird sie von den Schmitz Textiles Sales Directors Hubert Reinermann (drapilux) und Wouter Hof (swela) unterstützt.

„Die Beteiligung ist eine klassische Win-Win-Situation“, erklärt Anke Kondek. Schmitz Textiles war auf der Suche nach einer Beteiligung auf Augenhöhe. Prismatek strebte eine nachhaltige Zusammenarbeit mit einem vollstufigen Hersteller von hochwertigen Textilien ‚made in Germany‘ an. „Es ist ein großer Vorteil für uns, dass wir zukünftig mit der Power eines deutschen Mittelständlers im US-Markt agieren können“, erläutert Kondek weiter. Für Schmitz Textiles bietet die Beteiligung Chancen im US-Markt. „Wir möchten das Wachstum außerhalb unserer starken Basis in Europa fördern und somit die weitere Entwicklung des Unternehmens absichern“, bekräftigt Stefan Ruholl, Geschäftsführer von Schmitz Textiles. Bisherige Erfahrungen im US-Markt hätten jedoch gezeigt, dass dies nur mit einer engen Verbindung zu einem Partner in den Vereinigten Staaten möglich ist, da die Marktgegebenheiten und Mentalitäten sich sehr unterscheiden. Mit Prismatek sei genau dieser Partner gefunden worden. „Insbesondere für unsere Marken drapilux und swela sehen wir großes Potenzial in den USA“, ergänzt Stefan Ruholl.

COBRA International is collaborating with HG Robotics, a leading drone manufacturer that specializes in unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) for the agricultural market, on a composite fuselage cover for the cutting-edge Tiger Drones.

Undertaking a full range of services with HG Robotics and having been involved from the outset: from the design and engineering through to the prototyping of the composite drone fuselage cover, COBRA has now delivered nearly 100 sets and will produce approximately 500 units throughout 2019.

The multi-rotor Tiger Drones typically carry spraying equipment and can also carry high definition cameras that provide a wide range of field information. Farmers can measure land profiles, identify any problem plants or areas and manage their cultivation in the most efficient way. The 420 mm square shaped fuselage cover protects the drone’s electronic controls and forms an aerodynamic fairing between the central fuselage and the craft’s 4 rotor arms.
 
The COBRA Design and Development team selected a composite laminate of glass fibre reinforcements for the cover – which don’t interfere with GPS signals used by the drone - and combined these with epoxy laminating resins in a hand laminated, vacuum bag consolidated production process.

COBRA also designed all of the mould tools for the project. The 2-piece aluminium mould was produced by one of COBRA’s long-term tooling partners. This metallic tooling provides an excellent surface finish to the part with absolutely minimal trimming and finishing required.   Moulded parts can go swiftly through a painting and clear coating process before final inspection and delivery to the client.

Danu Chotikapanich, CEO of COBRA International comments: “Our collaboration with HG Robotics is going well, and we are hoping to collaborate further with them on other multi-rotor and fixed wing VTOL (vertical take-off and landing) drone models in the future. These are COBRA’s first parts for the agricultural industry, and they provide an exciting vision as to just a few of the possibilities for lightweight composites in this area and also in the wider commercial UAV market as a whole.”

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

ROICA™, premium stretch fiber for the modern wardrobe by leading material innovator Asahi Kasei and world’s leading wool manufacturer Reda have teamed up to elevate premium merino wool to a highest level of sustainability. At Première Vision, the companies present Reda Flexo, the new Reda Group smart stretch fabrics line interwoven with the cutting-edge ROICA™ V550, the new generation of stretch fiber.

As part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, ROICA™ V550 is the world first range of responsible premium yarn: a non-toxic, veritable revolution in terms of sustainable elastic fibers, matching the need for elasticity and comfort with the request for sustainability and respect for the environment.

“Reda Flexo represents an innovative and technologically advanced alternative, allowing to widen business horizons, addressing Made to Measure, performing suits for both women and men as well as contemporary solutions which are ideal for a younger target.” Explain at Reda. “Reda Flexo is a Smart Stretch fabric able to cover different fashion market segments thanks to its technologically sustainable and high-performing nature.”

• Customer Story
• Technology takes uniform making to the next level
• To meet new challenges in the professional garment market and preserve over a century of savoir-faire, Balsan chose Lectra to modernize its production tools.

The challenge

A Groupe Marck company, Balsan designs and manufactures corporate and ceremonial clothing, tailored and customized uniforms, and personal protective equipment and clothing for the public and private sector which comply with international standards. The biggest challenge is to meet the new expectations of customers who seek increasing levels of customization with ever-shorter time-to-market deadlines.
The professional garment sector is subject to the same pressures as prêt-à-porter, and Balsan’s challenge was to produce customized clothing more quickly using intelligent manufacturing methods.

Results

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process. “Using a measurement chart, Fashion On Demand by Lectra allowed us to generate well-adapted and customized patterns with which to produce our garments. The solution also provides extensive flexibility: we can send the model to the cutter, select the cutting orders and  even group them by fabric, and detect defects and launch re-cuts when necessary. This improves overall performance and delivers estimated productivity gains of 7%”. Stéphane Quiniou, Industrial and Quality Director, Groupe Marck

Lectra's response

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process.