From the Sector

On April 11^th, 2019, the 9 Partner Institutes of the AZL opened the doors of their machinery halls and research labs to provide an extensive and on-site insight into the research and development capaci-ties in the field of lightweight production and composites at the RWTH Aachen Campus. As a special highlight of this year, the AZL presented the "iComposite 4.0" self-optimizing process chain: fiber-spraying - dry fiber placement - adaptive RTM as well as AZL´s new prototype machine development "Ultra-Fast Consolidator Machine" for highly productive and flexible processing of thermoplastic tapes with in-situ consolidation (winner of the JEC World Innovation Award 2019).

More than 100 Participants from external companies as well as from the AZL Network had the possibility to experience updates on the latest lightweight production technologies and equipment, get to know the bene-fital infrastructure on the Campus and network with internationally represented companies of the entire light-weight value chain researches by taking part in five guided tours to the lightweight institutes.

The AZL brought together content in the field of textiles (ITA), plastics and composite materials (IKV), pro-duction technology (WZL, IPT, ILT, and ISF), quality assurance and production-integrated measurement technology (WZL), lightweight design (SLA), automotive production (IKA) as well as multi-material systems and process integration (AZL).

Once a year at the Open Day, the AZL offers an exclusive and widespread unique insight into the R&D capacities of the institutes in the field of lightweight and composite technologies on the campus of RWTH Aachen University. Within walking distance, researchers and students from 9 institutes are working on the latest technologies for the cost-efficient development and production of lightweight components within one of the largest research landscapes in Europe. The research, closely involving industrial companies, covers the entire value chain from fiber production, materials and processing technology to quality assurance and com-ponent testing.

At home, at work, on the street, in the sky, on the water, even in space, technical textiles and nonwovens are swinging towards ever higher performances in amazing applications. Versatile and light, but sometimes stronger than metal, these materials of the future gain their superpowers from the interaction of precisely coordinated textile systems. At Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main from May 14 to 17, 2019 in Hall 3, B06, Oerlikon will be showing chemical fiber applications made of polyester, polypropylene and Co. and what they can do in these fields. However, these exhibits are only a communicative means to an end, as Oerlikon is primarily interested in placing the associated machinery and plant solutions at the centre of discussions with trade fair visitors.

More than two thirds of all technical innovations are directly or indirectly based on new materials, says the German Research Ministry. One could add: The key to a more advanced world, for technological products with amazing functions, breathtaking performance and greater environmental benefits, is also to improve the properties and processing of materials. This applies first and foremost to textiles. Probably no other fabric is so strong as a "team player" who draws its strength from its cohesion. A single polyester thread, for example, looks inconspicuous. Processed into a thigh-thick special weave, however, high-strength High Modulus/High Tenacity fibers anchor floating oil platforms in the deepest waters. These kilometer-long "Mooring Ropes" withstand a breaking load of well over 1,000 tons and perform their task better than steel. For decades, Oerlikon Barmag has been offering special solutions for the production of so-called industrial yarns (IDY) that are tailored to customers worldwide. "We will once again be presenting numerous innovations at this trade fair to inspire our customers," explains Dr.-Ing. Dipl.-Chem. Roy Dolmans, Technology Manager IDY and R&D Filament Processing.

The brand Re.VerSo ™, representative of a zero-waste circular production system for wool and cashmere, has been selected as one of the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking project of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. The Exhibition aims to provide an artistic and cultural contribution on the crucial issue of sustainability, understood as "a development that meets the needs of the present, without compromising the possibility of future generations to meet their needs "(Brundtland Report, 1987).

Re.VerSo™, the advanced supply chain entered the exhibition project. Leftovers can be sourced directly by Re.VerSo™ supply chain, otherwise the Re.VerSo™ advanced technology process welcomes retailers and brands to supply their pre-consumer wool and cashmere woven and knitted off cuts, transforming them into high quality yarns and fabrics integrated for a circular economy.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at Techtextil to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets.
Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.
Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of ground-breaking innovations, such as the EarthColors®, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, or more recently, the purest indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018.
At Techtextil, Archroma will present 10 solution systems and 4 innovations, and will hold an “Innovation Session” to present the most prominent of those for the first time ever: Appretan® NTR, a new nature-based binder. (See “Agenda” below).

The Archroma Way
The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have all been selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.
The Archroma Way is based on 3 pillars:

1. Safe - with the deeply rooted goal to protect people and our planet. Safe to use, safe to release and also safe to wear.
2. Efficient - with innovating application processes that minimize resources and maximize productivity, both in Archroma’s and its customers' manufacturing.
3. Enhanced – with the added value created from additional effects, functionalities and aesthetics.

At Techtextil, visitors will be able to discover how The Archroma Way can help them create value in their textile applications and markets.

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

• essenscia Innovation Award is Belgium’s most prestigious prize for industrial innovation
• UltraBond is a cost-effective solution for fully recyclable, latex-free, sustainable carpets
• Significant reductions in ecological footprint and cost for carpet manufacturers

Beaulieu Fibres International, Europe’s largest producer of polyolefin fibres, was nominated for the 2019 essenscia Innovation Award for its recently introduced UltraBond fibre.

The biannual award is the most prestigious prize for industrial innovation in Belgium. Created by essenscia, the Belgian Federation for Chemistry and Life Sciences industries, it aims to promote innovations in the Belgian industry and encourages companies to invest even more in innovative and sustainable products and applications. During the evaluation of the nominated innovation projects, the jury assesses their link with chemistry, life sciences and materials, their contribution to sustainable development, their intellectual property management strategy as well as their added value for the economy.

Formally introduced in early 2019, UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bond nonwovens. It enables carpet manufacturers to create 100% PP needlepunch carpets that meet the same performance requirements as traditional constructions, while also reducing end-of-life environmental impact.

UltraBond helps manufacturers make a significant contribution to the circular economy through the production of 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, their total lack of water use and reduced energy use result in significant environmental advantages and financial savings. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint to the tune of a 35% reduction in CO2 emissions during the full production process.

Techtextil 2019: Schoeller launches its new finishing technology called NanoSphere® Plus. The special effect of this new development is its protection against fingerprints and greasy stains. Furthermore, even after being absorbed by the fabric stains are quickly and easily wiped away without washing.

Every human being leaves its marks. In particular, on daily-use items that are picked up or touched often. Especially on textile surfaces, hand and fingerprints in combination with dirt and dust particles leave an unpleasant, greasy dirt film, which is very difficult to clean.

NanoSphere® Plus, developed by Schoeller Technologies AG, the business unit for technologies at Schoeller Textil AG, works on the basis of a functional chain. Textiles are equipped with a matrix finish to reduce the capillary effect in the textile’s fibers. Especially unpleasant sebum residues and dirt that are often released by finger and handprints are less absorbed by the fabric and can be easily wiped away.

Beside the excellent protection against finger and handprints, textiles with NanoSphere® Plus are additionally water and oil repellent, abrasion resistant and extremely durable. The finishing technology rarely affects the look or feel of the fabric.

Non-washable textiles that are often touched by hands or fingers, or fabrics that are in direct contact with the skin benefit most from this new technology. Therefore, NanoSphere® Plus is ideal for woven fabrics and synthetic leather or synthetic suede for bags, covers of electronical devices, head phones, loud speakers or other items in the field of interior equipment.

• Exclusive market insights, best practices and inspirational thoughts, alongside previews of Kornit’s new dedicated polyester printing technology

Kornit Digital, (NASDAQ: KRNT), a global market leader in digital textile printing technology, invites all textile printers, garment decorators, Kornit users, prospective customers and anyone who is curious about the latest trends and technology in digital textile printing, to its “Kornit Discover” events.

Taking place April 3-4 in the New York Metropolitan area, April 11-12 in Duesseldorf, Germany and April 15-17 in Hong Kong, each event will feature educational workshops with real-world insights delivered by high-level guest speakers. Highlighting the North American event will be a keynote by Breakaway Sports owner Scott Goldstone, multiple case study presentations, and a panel discussion with editors of key publications serving the imprinted apparel industry. The European event will feature a keynote called “The Future of Retail” by futurist Kai Gondlach, a digital transformation review of the textile industry by Tansy Fall, editor-in-chief of Digital Textile 4.0 and an insightful chat with Kornit user Shirtracer, Nuremburg. The Asian instance will feature Ron Gilboa as main speaker and Kornit’s customer Paintory.

Omer Kulka, Kornit Digital’s Vice President of Marketing and Product Strategy, said: “There are still a lot of perceptions and opinions in the market about direct-to-garment printing and what its opportunities and limitations are. Printing on dark polyester is a prime example: there is an opinion in the market that digital printing and dark poly don’t go well together, and we just lifted this barrier. With Kornit Discover, we are creating an industry event that will challenge these established thinking patterns. In fact, we will transform the way visitors think and print!”

FONG’S EUROPE, based in Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, will celebrate the 100th anniversary of its flagship THEN brand for advanced dyeing technology with a special reception for customers and agents at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

The company, which has been a member of the CHTC FONG’S group since 2004, has its origins in the German city of Chemnitz, where back in 1919 Rudolf Then founded a barrel-making business which soon branched out into piece dyeing machines.

The company’s reputation for innovation began early, with the introduction of ceramic linings for dye baths, which were then made of wood, in order to avoid staining and allow easy cleaning. At the end of the 1920s, Rudolf Then was also quick to recognise the acid-resistant advantages of stainless steel for dyeing vessels.

Relocating to West Germany after World War 2, Rudolf Then ran a number of businesses in Schwäbisch Hall, eventually founding THEN in 1955 with partner Karl Kurz, who later took over the business specialising in dye vats and other textile equipment.

Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the company continued to further improve its technologies, but it was the introduction of the first THEN AIRFLOW system at ITMA 1983 in Milan which significantly boosted the company’s fortunes, representing a milestone in the development of dyeing machines.

Prior to this, the dyeing of just one kilo of fabric required around 150 litres of water and THEN’s AIRFLOW system, invented by engineer Wilhelm Christ and colleagues, drastically reduced the requirement to between just 35-40 litres. Instead of the traditional dye liquor used for hydraulic fabric transport it efficiently distributed much smaller amounts of dye liquor via aerosol. This technology has subsequently been further developed in successive machine models and has made an enormous impact on sustainable dyeing operations.

Now, as FONG’S EUROPE, the company continues to innovate, and at ITMA 2019 is showcasing the THEN SMARTFLOW TSF hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine, designed to achieve the lowest possible energy and water consumption rates available on the market for jet dyeing.

The company has a number of patents pending on the innovative new features of this machine, including the SMARTFLOW’s fabric transport design. This is based on a smart, winchless fabric transport system which eliminates the need for a loading rope, and a circular plaiter with programmable rotation speeds which provides full filling of the drop zone.

Its newly-developed nozzles and reel-less transport, in combination with smart controlled circular plaiting and variable chamber adjustment, provide even fabric treatment without entanglements and the highest loading capacity with the lowest kier volume

“Further developments, including the new THEN AIRFLOW PLUS system with a round design are in the development pipeline and will once again result in further reductions in power consumption without sacrificing performance,” says FONG’s Europe Sales Director Richard Fander. “Similar innovations are being made to our hydraulic long shape machine, the THEN SUPRATEC LTM. The ability to transport fabrics with reduced tension and without the need for a transport winch which is being introduced on all of our recent machines will allow new fabrics to be created and further increase the efficiency of textile finishing.

Fong’s Europe will be at stand D101 in Hall 2 at ITMA 2019.

On March 7th, European Commissioner on the Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and Small and Medium-Sized Enterprises has been welcomed in Prato by the mayor Matteo Bittoni and by the Councilor for Productive Activities Daniela Toccafondi, together with the economic categories for a meeting organized by the Department of Economic Development with reference to the Fashion System.

By the end of the meeting, the only company visit planned has followed, and brought to the Manteco headquarter. Manteco is a firm leader in the production of wool and recycled fabrics since 1943.  Today led by Matteo and Marco Mantellassi, Manteco is able to value territory, sharing economy, sustainability, internationalization and the use of renewable energies – not only as an investment policy but also as a distinctive element for the identification of the company as an international reference point for the fashion textile sector.

The company visit was attended by European Commissioner Elzbieta Bienkowska, Justina Morek, member of the Commissioner's Cabinet, Beatrice Covassi, director of the Representation of the European Commission in Rome, Slawomir Tokarski, director for advanced and innovative manufacturing in the general direction of the internal market and European Commission industry, MEP Hon. Nicola Danti, dr. Alberto Biginelli, Councilor Daniela Toccafondi; The Mayor of Prato Matteo Bittoni, the Mayor of the Municipality of Montemurlo, Mauro Lorenzini.

The key topic of the meeting has been the circular economy  – that is to consider very close to Manteco – along with some others explored such as the value of Made in Italy, the importance of a responsible approach to reuse and the need for a traceability system. Noteworthy the visit to the Manteco Archive, during which the focus has been on raw materials, with reference to the tradition and experience that today are perfectly combined with the strong innovative drive and creativity. Upon request of the European Commissioner, the corporate approach with a view to circular economy, km0 production system and how it fits into the productive district were also dealt with.
 
«I visited a textile company that recycles or reuses waste materials to produce wool of the highest quality: this is an excellent example of circular economy. The circular economy is an extremely interesting subject everywhere in Europe, because we are leaders in sustainability, and we want our children and ourselves to be able to live in a country that is livable in the future, so that's why it is worthwhile to show stories in Europe of success like this, which is a good practice that we are putting into practice, starting with the big industries and the energy-intensive ones » - Elzbieta Bienkowska -