From the Sector

Alchemie Technology is the latest company to join the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), as all of the organisation’s members gear up to showcase an array of new innovations at ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14 this year.

Cambridge-headquartered Alchemie is the inventor of two technologies – EndeavourTM and NovaraTM.

The Endeavour digital dyeing system produces no wastewater and reduces water consumption by up to 95% compared to traditional dyeing. The virtually waterless process delivers dyed fabric with high colour consistency and colour fastness and does not require post dyeing washing steps which leads to an energy reduction up to 85%. It can deliver any colour shade required and enables on-demand digital colour changeovers in any run length, from a few metres to several kilometres.

Similar energy savings can be achieved with the Novara precision finishing system which utilises a nozzle array to deliver finishing chemistry with millimetre resolution. Finishing chemistries penetrate deeply into the fabric due to the combination of high velocity liquid jetting and precisely-controlled vacuum and textile finishes are applied only where needed, reducing chemistry usage and enabling multi-functionality.

In the past year, Alchemie, backed by Swedish fashion giant H&M, has established a first demonstration hub at customer JSRTEX in Taiwan. It is now progressing plans to set up further centres at customer sites around the world.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported a record FY22 financial performance from the company’s global manufacturing footprint serving end-consumers’ resilient need for daily necessities. The unusually high level of customer destocking that weighed on the fourth quarter result is expected to have leveled out and business should return to normal operating conditions, with China’s reopening to further spur demand.

Full-year Core EBITDA climbed 31% YoY to $2.3 billion as revenue rose 28% to a record $18.8 billion. The company recorded strong cash flows of $2.2 billion, up 111% YoY. Indorama Ventures’ geographically diversified, integrated platform, backed by management’s agility, withstood unprecedented global events to generate earnings through the business cycle. During the year, the company continued to focus on its growth plan, successfully integrating its strategic surfactants business in Latin America and Vietnamese packaging acquisition. A dedicated senior team is working tirelessly and is committed to the company’s ‘Vision 2030’ sustainability goals including recycling technologies and introducing biomass feedstock to the company’s product portfolio. The ongoing ‘Project Olympus’ cost transformation program delivered an annual run rate of $449 million in efficiencies.

The annual result was impacted by an unusually challenging final quarter as fears of a recession and reduced transit times led to widespread destocking by customers. 4Q22 Core EBITDA declined 43% YoY to $264 million on a 1% drop in revenue to $3.9 billion. The pandemic lockdown in China also continued into the final quarter, reducing factory demand across Indorama Ventures’ portfolio and resulting in narrower margins from lower prices and higher costs. Higher energy and utility costs impacted European operations as the war in Ukraine continued into the winter.

To improve competitiveness and build resilience, Indorama Ventures rationalized underperforming assets in the Fibers business in Europe and a PTA site in Asia, resulting in a $7 million cash impairment in 4Q22 and a $253 million non-cash impact. As a result, the company looks forward to a $38 million uplift in EBITDA in 2023, reaching up to $65 million by 2025.

• At end 2022, Carbios has 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families for its innovation in enzymatic recycling of PET plastics and fibers, and its PLA biodegradation technology
• Carbios’ team of Intellectual Property experts is dedicated to protecting its innovations

 
Carbios has doubled its number of issued patents since the last review published at the end of 2020. Carbios (and its subsidiary Carbiolice) currently holds 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families.  In 2022, several titles protecting the proprietary PET-degrading enzymes were granted in countries of interest such as the United States and also in Asian countries including Indonesia, South Korea, China, Japan and India.  Carbios has also obtained grants within its patent families protecting the biodegradable plastics production process, notably the masterbatch containing the enzyme or its production process.
 
Carbios is expanding its intellectual property portfolio in regions and countries where there is strong demand for its disruptive technologies, notably :

• in Europe: 40 European titles, which could be granted in the 39 member states of the European Patent Organization
• in North America: 41 titles in the United States and 23 in Canada
• in Asia: 152 titles, including 37 in China, 27 in Japan and 24 in India

Carbios also has 14 patent applications that may be extended to other countries or regions of the world in the coming years.

“Over the past two years, we have mainly focused on strengthening the protection of our PET biorecycling process and its proprietary enzymes,” commented Lise LUCCHESI, Director of Intellectual Property at Carbios. “For the coming years, we will continue to consolidate the protection of this process, and that of our PLA biodegradation process, by filing new patent applications. We will also actively follow up on our filed patent applications in order to obtain granted patents.”
 
“Since the beginning of Carbios, the R&D and Intellectual Property departments have worked hand in hand to ensure maximum protection of our enzymes and processes,” commented Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer at Carbios.  “These continued efforts to obtain extensive international protection are crucial to safeguard our innovations and ensure the industrial deployment of our technologies.”

• The SS23 Collection brings an update to the Road cycling range – and includes the introduction of the Road Cycling Shoe 2.0
• Featuring material technologies including AEROREADY and WIND.RDY fabrics, along with inclusive sizing for women, the spring/summer adidas Road Cycling Collection is designed to help more people clip-in to the sport
• Inspired by the inclusive ethos driving cycling collectives around the world, the new Collection is accompanied by a launch film celebrating cycling clubs in the cities of London, Dubai and New York.

Using feedback from new and experienced cyclists alike, the adidas Road Cycling Collection is a range of apparel designed to help more people clip-in to the power of cycling and become part of this community on the move.

Featuring material technologies including WIND.RDY and AEROREADY fabrics, along with inclusive sizing for women, this new and improved range helps keep cyclists light in the saddle while offering wind protection on cool, breezy days and managing body sweat to keep riders feeling comfortable for longer.

The spring/summer range includes updates to all apparel pieces. This includes a soft-touch Short Sleeve Cycling Jersey made with AEROREADY fabric that adapts to movement, while a versatile, packable WIND.RDY Cycling Gilet is an additional layer on breezy days.

Padded Cycling Bib Shorts make light work of endurance rides with supportive, dual-density pads absorbing vibrations, and AEROREADY fabric helping legs feel dry and comfortable for longer. A Cycling Cap made with soft, sweat wicking AEROREADY fabric and mesh inserts tops off a collection of road essentials made for cyclists at every stage of their journey.

Stella McCartney hosted a party in L.A in celebration of her 18 year partnership with adidas and to present its new Spring/Summer 23 collection. Kicking off the biggest weekend in music, the collaboration took over LA’s famous Henson Recording Studios for an iconic evening that brought together music and fashion.

​A collaboration that has always pushed the limits, from innovation and sport style to working with pioneers across fashion, music and art, the party celebrated a partnership that continues to champion individual expression and inspires the new wave of trailblazers. ​Together, adidas and Stella McCartney are committed to finding new ways to create and support a better future through the fusion of recycled materials and key performance technologies.

The key collections showcased at the party include:​

• ICONS: Blending sport and style through contemporary cuts, the capsule sees iconic adidas by Stella McCartney designs reimagined in staple shades of black, grey and white – providing next-gen athletes with a timeless blank canvas to move with purpose. Featured for the first time is the Sportswear Run Shoe, an all-new gender-neutral silhouette made in part from natural and renewable materials.​
• TRUENATURE: Designed for exploring the world outside, the collection captures a contemporary take on Earth and weather satellite images alongside conceptual contours and ley lines of maps. With leading technologies such as Parley Ocean Plastic and WIND.RDY, the collection has been crafted to protect the next generation of active activists.

For the SS24 Iluna focuses on the most precious lightness and intangibility with its Ultralight series of jacquardtronic laces reminiscent of the delicacy of Leavers.
This season, responsible developments did not stop at responsible ingredients and processes; in fact, the company focused on the circular economy! The stylistic research started from the company's historical archive, to give life to a collection that revisits the proposals in a "modern classic" key.
 
The company's design team recreated the iconic designs of the line, the heart of the Black Label proposal, ILUNA's signature line offering the finest laces. Focusing on upcycling, the team reworked archival stocks, creating new value through finishings, and reweaving from scratch only the missing widths in order to present a complete, coordinated underwear/nightwear range from allovers to galoons.

For the SS24 season the Iluna team continues its developments with GOTS-certified organic cotton in its galoons and allovers, to add a natural touch to its Green Label line.
Among the ingredients chosen by Iluna Group are: Renycle® and Q-NOVA®, both GRS-certified pre-consumer recycled polyamide yarns in addition to the recycled stretch ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei. Among the new technical developments on laces, Iluna then worked on variable elasticity modules, resulting in reinforced edges or zones of differentiated elasticity that can be variously positioned within the laces.
All this results in a comfortable, ultralight product that remains true to a high value of creativity and responsibility. The option is applicable to all the Iluna laces, with modular solutions at the customer's request on fashion items as well, where research continues on FSC-certified pre-dyed viscoses and unexpected metallic gleams with lurex.

Moreover, the continuous path through the new dimension of responsibility continues in several directions: experiments with 16 different natural dyestuffs; and continued investment in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including GREENDROP, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.
From athleisure to fashion, through lingerie to the world of high fashion, Iluna's lace continues to expand its applications, confirming its extreme versatility, remarkable performance and inimitable beauty.

• adidas unveils its SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection – an apparel range fit for performance
• Inspired by plants and florals, the collection features bold prints, vibrant colorways and a moiré effect textile
• The adidas SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13 2023

adidas launches its new SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection, a range of performance apparel featuring striking colorful prints, inspired by plant life and nature. Select pieces feature a contrast-color mesh layering that when in motion creates a moiré effect and helps to mask the player’s movements and positioning on court.

With the help of innovation, adidas is seeing possibilities in turning towards new resources. For these products adidas turned to a greenhouse gas technology. It uses captured industrial emissions as a new material feedstock. CO₂ is fermented into ethanol which constitutes 30% by weight of a polyester yarn. adidas knitted this yarn into various products and now this carbon-based ethanol makes up a minimum of 15% by weight of these garments.

In addition, the collection also utilizes HEAT.RDY and Aeroready technologies. HEAT.RDY technology is designed to maximize airflow and optimize sweat distribution, while AEROREADY is powered by moisture-wicking fabric that absorbs sweat quickly for a dry feeling, helping players to move freely and comfortably on court.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be premiered on court by adidas athletes, including Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Garbiñe Muguruza, Qiang Wang and Maria Sakkari.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13.

Am 1. Januar 2023 ist das Lieferketten-Sorgfaltspflichtengesetz (LkSG) in Kraft getreten. Die Unternehmen werden damit verpflichtet, Menschenrechte und Umweltbelange entlang ihrer globalen Lieferkette zu wahren. Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) unterstützt die Medizintechnik-Branche bei der praktischen Umsetzung der neuen LkSG-Pflichten mit einer kostenlosen Handreichung. Die Orientierungshilfe besteht aus insgesamt sechs Modulen, von denen nun auch Modul 3 „Ausgestaltung des Beschwerdemechanismus“ und Modul 5 „Jährliche Berichterstattung“ online gegangen sind. Zuvor waren bereits Module zum Anwendungsbereich, zur Compliance-Dokumentation und zur Ausgestaltung der Governance vom BVMed veröffentlicht worden. Die Module können unter www.bvmed.de/lksg heruntergeladen werden.

Das Gesetz gilt für alle Unternehmen, die in Deutschland mehr als 3.000 Mitarbeitende beschäftigen. Ab dem 1. Januar 2024 gilt es ab 1.000 Beschäftigte. Auch kleine und mittelständische Medizinprodukte-Hersteller und -Zulieferer können mittelbar betroffen sein. Dabei gilt das LkSG für sämtliche Wirtschaftsbereiche, also auch für das Gesundheitswesen einschließlich des Medizintechnik-Sektors.

„Unser Ziel ist es, mit den Publikationen zu einem einheitlichen Branchenstandard für die Implementierung des LkSG in Medizinprodukte-Unternehmen beizutragen. Damit erreichen wir Harmonisierung, Rechtssicherheit und Effizienz. Moderne Medizintechnologien dienen den Menschen und ihrer Gesundheitsversorgung. Hierbei müssen die Lebensgrundlagen der Menschen im Blick behalten werden. Menschenrechte müssen umfassend geachtet und sichergestellt werden. Dies muss ein zentrales Anliegen in einer globalisierten Welt mit komplexen Liefer- und Warenströmen sein“, kommentiert BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll. Die Module wurden vom BVMed gemeinsam mit der Kanzlei Clifford Chance und der Produktkanzlei entwickelt.

Beschwerdemechanismus und jährliche Berichtserstattung
Die neu veröffentlichten Module 3 und 5 beleuchten die Ausgestaltung des Beschwerdemechanismus und die jährliche Berichtserstattung.

• Nach § 8 LkSG sind die Unternehmen verpflichtet, ein angemessenes und unternehmensinternes Beschwerdeverfahren einzurichten, welches es Personen ermöglicht, auf menschenrechtliche und umweltbezogene Risiken sowie auf Verletzungen menschenrechts- und umweltbezogener Pflichten hinzuweisen. Das dritte Modul enthält Vorschläge für die Ausgestaltung des Beschwerdemechanismus.
• Das fünfte Modul gibt eine Übersicht über die Mindestangaben, welche die Unternehmen im Rahmen ihrer jährlichen öffentlichen Berichterstattung nach § 10 Abs. 2 LkSG sowohl gegenüber der zuständigen Behörde, d. h. dem Bundesamt für Wirtschaft und Ausfuhrkontrolle („BAFA“), als auch gegenüber der Öffentlichkeit offenlegen müssen.
• Modul 4 zur Risikoanalyse, -priorisierung, -prävention und -abhilfe folgt bis Ende Januar 2023.

„Das LkSG begründet umfangreiche Sorgfaltspflichten zum Schutz von menschenrechtlichen und umweltbezogenen Belangen entlang der gesamtem Lieferkette“, erläutern BVMed-Nachhaltigkeitsexpertin Clara Allonge sowie BVMed-Rechtsexpertin Dr. Katja Marx. Die Pflichten umfassen unter anderem die Risikoermittlung, -vermeidung und -beseitigung, die Einrichtung einer Überwachungsfunktion – in der Regel durch eine:n Menschenrechtsbeauftragte:n – und eines Beschwerdemechanismus, das Erstellen oder Ergänzen von Compliance-Dokumenten sowie die regelmäßige Berichterstattung. Die BVMed-Handreichung enthält zur Unterstützung der MedTech-Unternehmen praktische Umsetzungshilfen in Form von Beispielen, Musterformulierungen und Checklisten.

In Workshops des BVMed und der BVMed-Akademie werden die Pflichten vertieft erläutert und die Möglichkeit für Rückfragen gegeben.

Die kostenlose BVMed-Handreichung für Medizintechnik-Unternehmen besteht insgesamt aus den folgenden sechs Modulen:

• Modul 0: Anwendungsbereich
• Modul 1: (Compliance-)Dokumentation
• Modul 2: Ausgestaltung der Governance
• Modul 3: Ausgestaltung des Beschwerdemechanismus
• Modul 4: Risikoanalyse, -priorisierung, -prävention und -abhilfe
• Modul 5: Jährliche Berichterstattung

Carbios published its first Sustainability Report using 2021 as the baseline year. The report outlines Carbios’ commitment to developing environmental, social and governance (ESG) initiatives that go beyond the industrial development of its innovative plastics biorecycling technologies. Although not subject to the regulatory requirement of the Non-Financial Reporting Directive (NFRD), Carbios has nonetheless structured its report in accordance with the requirements of the European directive on Extra-Financial Performance Statements.

Carbios’ sustainability strategy is based on three pillars (governance and ethics, the environment, social and societal issues) divided into 22 priority material challenges. Carbios’ Sustainability Report reflects the company’s dedication to transparency in action and highlights its efforts in areas such as environmental sustainability; employee relations, diversity and inclusion; and corporate governance.

Within its 2021 Sustainability Report, Carbios has formalized several targets including:

ENVIRONMENTAL OBJECTIVES

• Use the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) method to maximize circularity and aim for the lowest carbon impact
• Commit to depolymerizing 60 tons of PET in 2023 at the Demonstration Plant in Clermont-Ferrand: the equivalent of about 3.2 million plastic bottles or 4 million food trays

SOCIAL OBJECTIVES

• Contribute to local economic development in France: the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant in Longlaville will create 150 direct and indirect jobs
• In a context of strong growth, promote employee well-being and safety by developing training, and ensuring the management and prevention of psycho-social risks
• Strengthen commitment to supporting international research through academic partnerships and scientific publications

GOVERNANCE OBJECTIVES

• Achieve 40% female members of the Board of Directors by end 2023, and 40% on Executive Committee by end 2024
• Achieve 60% independent members of the Board of Directors by end 2024
• Structure CSR governance with the creation of a CSR committee and integrate sustainability objectives into Executive’s compensation starting fiscal year 2023

• Building Leadership Position in Luxury Market

Oerlikon announced that it has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Riri, a leading provider of coated metal accessories for the luxury fashion industry. This transaction marks a milestone in Oerlikon’s growth strategy and diversifies Surface Solutions’ offerings and market access. The transaction is expected to close in the first quarter 2023, subject to regulatory approvals and standard closing conditions.

“Riri is highly complementary to our existing luxury business and will reinforce our fashion jewelry and metallic components for leather goods. It is the ideal next step after our acquisition of Coeurdor in 2021 and will make us a market leader and an integrated provider with a complete offering of coated luxury metalware for high-end fashion brands,” said Michael Suess, Executive Chairman, Oerlikon. “The acquisition will drive cross-selling and strengthen our footprint in the global luxury metalware market, which sees mid- to-high single-digit growth rates annually.”

“Our portfolio, particularly in zippers and buttons, is an excellent fit to Oerlikon’s strengths in coated metal-based fashion components. Together, we are ideally positioned in Italy and France – the two major European fashion hubs – and can provide a complete offering to fashion customers,” said Renato Usoni, CEO, Riri. “We are excited to join Oerlikon as it will allow us to accelerate the luxury goods industry’s sustainability transition to greener technology by applying technologies such as Oerlikon’s PVD¹.”

Riri, headquartered in Mendrisio, Switzerland, is a market leader in metal accessories manufacturing, with a wide product range and unique offering. The company supplies global leading brands in the luxury fashion industry and has a strong foothold in the Italian luxury market. The company has more than 1 100 employees and expects to generate sales of EUR ~170 million (CHF ~165 million) in 2022.

¹ PVD, or physical vapor deposition, coating is a thin-film coating solution that is more environmentally friendly than traditional processes such as chrome plating.