From the Sector

TEXO AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, is currently seeing a surge in demand for its Compfelt weaving looms for press felt base fabrics.

“These are far from standard machines,” explains TEXO President Anders Svensson. “Off-the-shelf industrial weaving machines generally range in their working widths from 1.9 to 3.2 metres, with those purpose-built for technical applications such as geotextiles extending to wider widths of six metres and beyond. Meanwhile, one of the machines we have recently successfully delivered and commissioned has a working width of 23 metres and is not even the widest of the many such machines the company has engineered and delivered worldwide since its formation.”

A second recently-delivered line has a more modest working width – in relative terms – of 13 metres.

Paper machines
The demand for such machines comes from the suppliers of paper machine clothing (PMC) to paper mills, who in turn operate colossal machines for paper manufacturing.
On of the largest paper making machines is currently believed to be located on Hainan Island off the southern coast of China and is 428 metres long – roughly the length of four football pitches. Naturally, such machines require equally large-scale components, which is where TEXO comes in. All paper machines require a regular supply of PMC fabrics which are employed in three separate areas of the paper machine – the forming section, the press section and the drying section.

Press felts
TEXO Compfelt weaving machines are specifically employed for the production of endless (tubular) woven base fabrics for the press section of paper machines, where water is mechanically removed from the newly formed sheet of fibres. In the simplest press, the sheet is carried by the PMC fabric between two rolls, where water is squeezed out by the application of load and pressure. This can also be assisted by the use of vacuum and heat. The PMC fabrics here need to be replaced regularly, with a maximum lifespan of six months.

Press felts have become increasingly sophisticated over the years, consisting of complex woven base structures which are subsequently combined with nonwovens via needlepunching on equally huge machines. The woven base fabrics are primarily made from polyamide for its strength and hygroscopic and elastic properties.

Dobby harness
“A major refinement of the machine has been the ability to equip it with up to 24 dobby harness frames to meet the demand for sophisticated structures from the PMC manufacturers. Although the PMC business represents a small proportion of the total cost of manufacturing paper, it can have a significant impact on the quality of the paper, the efficiency of a machine and machine production rates.”

Another significant development has been that of a self supporting base pre-filled with concrete, which has eliminated the need to dig out foundations in a plant to support the machine.

Retrofits
TEXO’s looms are built to last, but technology moves forward, and the company is also currently active in the retrofitting of existing machines built as far back as the 1970s.

Integration
TEXO has also just integrated its offices and production centre at its base in Älmhult, Sweden, to create a unified 5,000 square metre site.

International technology group ANDRITZ will be presenting its special-purpose machines for needlepunch production (including its portfolio for carbon applications) at JEC World 2022 in Paris, France, from May 3 to 5.

Experience and Know-How
ANDRITZ designs, develops, and engineers special-purpose machines for very specific and sensitive applications, like aerospace, railway, and military needs. Therefore, it can provide the market with customized machines offering perfect solutions, whether they are needed for prototypes or for industrial production.

Skilled Engineers
In increasingly demanding markets, the skilled ANDRITZ engineers and technicians help customers get the most out of their investments. The variety of cases they face every day enables them to optimize both output and quality depending on the fibers used, the challenge, and the customer’s final application.

Carbon Expertise
Experience with conductive fibers enables ANDRITZ to overcome challenges and provide access to new product developments. The company’s expertise lies in textile know-how as well as a deep understanding of related constraints. It includes carded/crosslapped processes for nonwovens made from recycled carbon fibers, which can be delivered in rolls or die-cut shapes.

Unconventional Needling for End-Uses
ANDRITZ addresses customers’ challenges by offering solutions and expertise in terms of straight and multi-axial needling, enabling the consolidation of fibers on flat or non-flat surfaces (such as rounded shapes) and even of layers up to 350 mm thick. New developments are made possible thanks to the outstanding ANDRITZ testing facility.

Support and Development
The ANDRITZ needlepunch technical center in Elbeuf, France, is open to visitors. Innovative strength and adaptability are the characteristics that make ANDRITZ the preferred partner in the search for genuine, efficient, and reliable solutions in the interests of productivity and premium, state-of-the-art consolidation. Secrecy being key in such sensitive development work, ANDRITZ naturally always guarantees the utmost confidentiality.

Hexcel Corporation hosted customers and public officials at its manufacturing site in the Midparc Free Trade Zone in Casablanca as the company broke ground on an expansion that will double the size of its existing engineered core manufacturing operation in Morocco to meet increased demand from aerospace customers for lightweight advanced composites.

The expansion, announced in September 2021, is expected to be completed in early 2023. The plant size will double to 24,000 square meters and employment is expected to increase from 120 to 400 people when the expansion is completed.

The Casablanca facility was built as part of Hexcel’s ongoing worldwide investment to create a diversified and robust global supply chain to support aerospace customers’ growing demand for engineered core. At the plant, Hexcel transforms lightweight honeycomb materials into engineered core parts to reinforce structures in the aerospace industry, particularly for aircraft, engine nacelles, and helicopter blades.

At the event, Thierry Merlot, Hexcel President – Aerospace for Europe, MEA/AP & Industrial, said, “We are pleased to celebrate this milestone with our customers and with the local community. The increased demand for lightweight, aerodynamic, advanced composites is growing, and our customers including Safran, Airbus, Airbus Atlantic, Boeing and Spirit AeroSystems have shown confidence in our ability to meet that demand. We appreciate the support from them as well as from the Ministry and everyone in the local community who continue providing us with the opportunity to further our investment in Morocco. The very successful establishment of Hexcel, the qualification of the workforce, the support of the state and the proximity of our customers have been real assets to launch this extension of our site in Casablanca.”

Display graphics print providers now have a powerful solution for saving media and reducing prep time with newly available EFI™ Fiery® Prep-it™ true-shape nesting and cut-preparation software. The newly available solution from Electronics For Imaging, Inc. connects to any digital front end (DFE) – including full integration with EFI Fiery proServer and Fiery XF DFEs – to increase the profitability of cut jobs printed on wide- to superwide-format inkjet printers.

Media and time savings

Automated cut job preparation

Economic advantages for all display graphics businesses

Whether print businesses do their nesting layouts manually in Adobe® Illustrator®, or use an existing nesting solution, switching to Fiery Prep-it software offers compelling productivity gains and media savings. It has some of the best true-shape nesting technology on the market, including its 1° increment rotation capability and accurate double-sided nesting, giving users the ability to reduce media waste and turnaround time even further.

On top of its ability to generate at least 10% in media savings, Fiery Prep-it also increases profitability by:

• Giving companies the ability to win more tight-deadline business by preparing cut jobs in a fraction of the time required with manual nesting methods
• Reducing errors and expensive rework due to minimal touchpoints in job production with hot folders and automation capabilities
• Removing production bottlenecks with increased utilization of existing printing and cutting equipment.

The software integrates with EFI Fiery proServer and Fiery XF DFE print servers, providing access to an additional 1,300+ cutter and router types on top of built-in Prep-it connectivity options. The software can also connect to any RIP or DFE that accepts PDF files, serving as a central hub for cut job preparation.

Reifenhäuser Cast Sheet Coating - specialists for cast film, sheet extrusion and extrusion coating lines - will showcase a new production process for cost-effective film/nonwoven composites with an exceptionally low grammage at ICE (International Converting Exhibition) Europe. The leading international trade show for paper, film, and foil conversion and processing will be held at Messe München (Munich trade fair center) from March 15-17, 2022.

The Covid-19 pandemic and current supply shortages have exposed the dependence of companies on global supply chains. This situation is both a warning signal and an opportunity to boost and reorganize the local production of semi-finished products from the ground up. Reifenhäuser Cast Sheet Coating has now developed a trend-setting production process termed Ultrathin Coating, in particular for the sector of medical protective clothing. The process will permit customers to produce particularly lightweight film/nonwoven composites with greater cost efficiency and, as a result, more competitively. The patent-pending process has several advantages: It cuts film grammage by 66%; material consumption in the overall composite is reduced by 28%; and it slashes costs by up to 34% compared to conventional semi-finished products. Significant cost savings are achieved in various ways, for example, by replacing hotmelt adhesives, which reduces line maintenance to a great extent at the same time.

Mark Borutta, Sales & Marketing Specialist bei Reifenhäuser Cast Sheet Coating, erklärt: „Wir erleben derzeit einen nachhaltig wachsenden Mehrbedarf für medizinische Schutzbekleidung verbunden mit einer Rückholstrategie für lokale Produktionskapazitäten. Vor diesem Hintergrund erzielen Produzenten mit ‚Ultrathin Coating‘ einen schnellen Return on Invest und hohe Profitabilität – auch bei einer Produktion innerhalb Europas.“ Die Vlies-erfahrene Schwesterfirma Reifenhäuser Reicofil –führender Hersteller von Vliesstoffanlagen – hat die Entwicklung unterstützt.

Mark Borutta, Sales & Marketing specialist at Reifenhäuser Cast Sheet Coating, explains: "We are currently experiencing a sustained increase in demand for medical protective clothing combined with a return strategy for local production capacity. Against this backdrop, producers achieve a fast return on investment and high profitability with Ultrathin Coating - even when production is based in Europe." The sister company, Reifenhäuser Reicofil, an experienced and global leading manufacturer of nonwoven lines, provided their support to the development.

Even if manufacturers already produce medical protective clothing and prefer to handle the coating process internally in the future instead of importing the necessary composites, it is worthwhile to set up an in-house production facility. In either case, the investment in Ultrathin Coating usually pays for itself in less than 12 months. The lower material input also reduces the consumption of fossil raw materials and this in turn responds to the increased demand for more sustainable products.

With just 3 months to go before Techtextil Frankfurt, UK company Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET), is looking forward to exhibiting at this trade show once again. Techtextil attracts international blue-chip companies at the cutting edge of technology, seeking innovative solutions to technical challenges, so this event represents an ideal opportunity to demonstrate how FET can help achieve their goals.

FET is an acknowledged leader in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment for a vast range of applications, such as precursor materials used in high value technical textiles, sportswear, medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. Where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides a viable alternative with pilot and small scale production wet spinning systems.

However, FET will also showcase at Techtextil its more recent laboratory scale spunbond system, which enables client development of nonwoven fabrics in a number of formats and polymers. FET already has a number of spunbond systems in the field, including composite systems which utilise both spunbond and meltspun functions.

A major theme to be highlighted on the FET stand is Sustainability. The FET range of laboratory and pilot extrusion lines is ideally suited for both process and end product development of sustainable materials.

FET has successfully processed almost 30 different polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and non-woven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes.

• Carbios has succeeded in producing a 100% enzymatically recycled white PET fiber from colored textile waste
• At the same time, the company has produced the first 100% recycled PET bottles, that have successfully passed the food contact validation tests, from the same textile waste.
• Carbios received €827,200 for the validation of this final technical stage of the project co-funded by ADEME

Carbios announced the validation of the 3^rd and final technical step of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by ADEME3 (France’s Environment and Energy Management Agency), for which Carbios is the lead partner alongside its academic partner TWB. This achievement confirms, once again, the full potential and breadth of Carbios’ enzymatic recycling process, C-ZYME™. This breakthrough innovation makes it possible to produce a wide variety of products of equivalent quality to those of petro-sourced origin from any PET waste, including textiles.
 
The first white PET fiber recycled enzymatically from colored textile waste
Worldwide, around 90 million tons of PET are produced each year, more than 2/3 of which are used to manufacture fibers. However, only 13% of textile waste is currently recycled, mainly for downcycling, i.e. for lower quality applications (such as padding, insulators or rags). By successfully manufacturing at pilot scale a white PET fiber that is 100% enzymatically recycled from colored textile waste, Carbios is paving the way for the circular economy in the textile industry.  C-ZYME™ is now on the doorstep of industrialization and will soon enable the biggest brands to move closer to their sustainability goals.
 
Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of Carbios: « Thanks to our breakthrough process, it will soon be possible to manufacture, on a large scale, t-shirts or bottles using polyester textile waste as raw material. This is a major breakthrough that gives value to waste that currently has little or no value. It is a concrete solution that opens up a global market of 60 million tons per year of potential raw materials and will help to reduce the use of fossil resources. »
 
Separate collection of textile waste soon to be mandatory in Europe
From 1 January 2025 the separate collection of textile waste, which is already in place in some countries, will be mandatory for all EU Member States (European Directive 2018/851 on waste).  Carbios’ process will enable this waste to be sustainably recovered and included in a true circular economy model.
 
These technological validations were carried out as part of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by ADEME3. In particular, the project aimed to develop Carbios’ enzymatic PET recycling process on textile waste. The C-ZYME™ technology is complementary to thermomechanical recycling and will make it possible to process plastic and textile waste deposits that are currently not or poorly recovered. For the validation of this stage of the project, Carbios received €827,200 (€206,800 in grants and €620,400 in repayable advances).

Sustainability has become a major trend in the global home textiles industry. It is more common nowadays to find natural and sustainable fibres in an extensive range of home furnishing products. From this angle, the Lenzing Group (Lenzing) will take led in a brand new pavilion at Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition. Lenzing is the world’s leading manufacturer of renewable specialty fibres, and will highlight the latest eco-friendly fibres that can meet the ever-rising sourcing demand. The fair is set to take place from 14 – 16 April 2022 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

As an upswing from the growing public awareness of environmental issues, consumers are now more willing to switch to sustainable products. According to a CottonWorks’ survey, 90% of the interviewed Chinese consumers want their home textiles to be environmentally friendly[1]. It also found that more consumers are paying attention to the fibre content that can deliver safe and sustainable home textiles.
Furthermore, the Chinese government’s ‘Outline Of the Development of the Textile Industry during the 14th Five Year Plan’, also encourages the acceleration of low cost, functional and sustainable renewable fibres in the local textile industry.

The Lenzing satellite pavilion: a one-stop platform for green home textile materials
To help home textile suppliers source a variety of eco-friendly materials efficiently, one of the fair’s long-time exhibitors is set to form a new pavilion at the upcoming Spring show. Lenzing, the Austrian brand widely known for its ecologically responsible production of specialty fibres made from renewable raw material wood, gathers seven of its local downstream supply chain manufacturers to showcase their renewable products.

Mr David Dai, Senior Commercial Director Textile China of Lenzing spoked about why they decided to organise a new pavilion at the show: “As we received positive feedback from our pavilion at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, our business partners from the home textile supply chain were hoping for a similar arrangement in this sector. We believe all the participating manufacturers can benefit from this pavilion by finding ways to better serve their clients and consumers.”

Brands in the Lenzing satellite pavilion will include:
•    Lenzing Group will introduce the first Carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibres which are CarbonNeutral™ certified products by Natural Capital Partner.
•    Botou Jinglun Textiles Co Ltd focuses on new fibre yarns. The company develops multi-component yarns for cotton, wool, silk and linen with combinations of MODAL, TENCEL™ fibres and various functional materials.
•    Fujian Yongtai County Huaerjin Textile Co Ltd provides high-quality, natural, renewable pure and blended yarns including TENCEL™ fibres, US cotton, Australian cotton, acrylic cotton, silk and other plant-based yarns.
•    Jiangsu Dasheng Group Co Ltd has one of the largest cellulosic fibre yarn spinning mills in China and focuses on producing top-quality home textiles.
•    Qingdao Textiles Group produces natural fibres, cellulose fibres, copper antimicrobial fibres and other nature-based materials for home and contract textiles.
•    Suzhou Zhenlun Spinning Co Ltd is an advanced enterprise specialising in regenerated cellulose yarns like ECO VERO, FSC Viscose, Circulose, Carbon Zero Yarn and more.
•    Ton Design Industrial Co Ltd produces medium and high-end bedding fabrics. The brand’s TENCEL™ Lyocell fibres and TENCEL™ fibres blend cotton series products are certified by Lenzing.
•    Wuxi Tianmu Extra Width Printing Dyeing Co Ltd mainly produces extra-wide, high-count and high-density down-proof fabrics and fabrics for bedding. The technique can handle different procedures for dealing with pure cotton, bamboo fibres, TENCEL™ fibres and other fibre fabrics.

In addition to the new pavilion, a number of other featured exhibitors will also showcase their sustainable products at the fair. This includes Cotton Council International (CCI) promoting US cotton fibres and cotton products, and Zhangjiagang Coolist Life Technology Co Ltd bringing their unique bedding products made from organic and environmental-friendly materials.

• Symm-Net articles made using the new MJ 92/1 B impress with their perfectly symmetrical appearance

Lace is a delicate seducer. The more finely crafted its ground structure, the more effective its refined designs come across, and as such, the higher the overall quality. The innovative Symm-Net pieces, which can be produced on KARL MAYER’s new MJ 92/1 B, have a look that sets new standards.

Lace offering maximum clarity and balance
Symm-Net lace is characterised by an extremely delicate design, offering absolute symmetry. This is thanks to the particular configuration of the MJ 92/1 B – the new multi-bar jacquard raschel machine features a split-design jacquard bar with separate threading, and can thus work using both equal and counter lapping. In addition, the newcomer has two ground guide bars at the back for counterlapped elastane. For Symm-Net’s ground structure, GB1 works a pillar notation whilst the jacquard bar works a counter-lapped inlay. The result is a net structure with absolutely symmetrical, clearly defined symmetry. To perfect the geometry, the two elastane bars with split threading – i.e. 1 in, 1 out – and counter-lapping patterning mirror the movement of the jacquard bar.

The lapping patterns thus look as follows:
• JB 91: 0 – 0 / 2 – 2 // and JB 92: 2 – 2 / 0 – 0 //
• GB 93: 0 – 0 / 1 – 1 // and GB 94: 1 – 1 / 0 – 0 //

The ground structure is not only more uniform, but also more stable than its counterparts manufactured with equal lapping. The advantages of Symm-Net are particularly visible when working finer mesh constructions. “When it comes to a delicate appearance, Leavers lace traditionally sets the standard; in particular, Endsor- Net is known for its delicate design. There is hardly any discernible difference with Symm-Net, which should open up new design perspectives, especially for the premium brands in Europe,” explains Jamie Heather, lace expert at KARL MAYER. Symm-Net offers a further advantage thanks to its simple pattern development. For example, the patterning process does not require any updates to the commonly used patterning software, SAPO and ProCad – only the machine database needs to be adapted.

High design flexibility
In addition to the Symm-Net variants, all existing patterns of the OJ 91/1 B, MJ 85/1 B and OJ 83/1 B can be implemented on the MJ 92/1 B in E 24 without restrictions; switching from the new counter lapping to the traditional JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE pattern is seamless. Jamie Heather is certain this flexibility will give customers a real competitive advantage.

All the prerequisites for a bestseller
The MJ 92/1 B has been successfully offered on the market since May 2021. The newcomer is available in gauge E 24, with a working width of 134". Despite its high design flexibility, it still offers first-class productivity. It can also reach speeds of up to 800 rpm when producing Symm-Net articles. To allow for diverse product design, 88 pattern guide bars and two elastane bars, arranged in 16 shogging lines, are available. Thanks to these features, the MJ 92/1 B mainly produces elastic galloon lace, but also all-over lace for stylish lingerie items.

• Where performance and responsibility all together become the new norm
• Discover ROICA™ groundbreaking innovations in the sports field, and the bold partnerships that made them possible

Today ROICA™ main objective is to focus on and respond to new generation values in fashion. Values that are key for contemporary consumers, who are the ones leading the change throughout all the supply value chain, and have received even more attention since the beginning of the pandemic. ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei team knows that value creation is the basic foundation of contemporary business. Its teams are ready to go to the next level, answering to the market demand for top-notch innovation while sharing its responsibility efforts towards the new generation of consumer.

For this reason, the ROICA™ strategy is based on two key elements. On the one side, a strong focus on responsible innovation, able to respond to new fashion needs and desires while not harming the environment nor the society at large. On the other hand, a consolidation of partnerships along the whole supply chain through conversations and collaborations with companies sharing the ROICA™ values, in order to deliver creativity, solutions and design to all contemporary consumers.

It is of the utmost importance to share the current wardrobe stories developed and offered to contemporary consumer throughout our ROICA™ supply chain efforts. Starting from the various applications of ROICA™, from the fibre down to the outfits, passing from fabrics and manufacturing.

Activation
Performance sportswear styles for Gym, Athletics, Cycle wear, Athleisure as well as mindful Yoga and Exercisewear. Its main keywords are freedom, fit, performance and responsibility. Among the brands recurring to this application we can find:

- Edelvissa is an emerging all-Italian brand, born in the heart of Milan. The designer Elisabetta Bianco, who grew up under the wings of her grandfather and father, both expert knitters, decided to found a reality that would fully represent her vision of luxury homewear. Flanked by her partner and her brother, Elisabetta created a brand with a transparent soul, based on the quality of materials, complete product traceability and social and environmental sustainability. From the heart of Milan, Edelvissa aims to share the centuries-old textile culture and the high Italian craftsmanship tradition. In its first collection, a crop top with a beautiful embroidery of blooming flowers and a pair of comfortable, yet stylish leggings are both crafted from a Maglificio Ripa fabric developed with Q-NOVA® BY FULGAR recycled polyamide and ROICA™ EF* recycled stretch yarn, both GRS certified. Maglificio Ripa is a premium partner of ROICA™.

- Scott Racing Team: A partnership born in 2019 and celebrated at Ispo 2020, based on two premium partnerships: Rosti for the style and manufacturing, ROICA™’s partner Sitip for technical fabrics made from GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns including ROICA™ EF*, the certified recycled stretch ingredient produced by Asahi Kasei. A synergy that has given life to high-tech clothing, customized for this team able to face the climatic conditions and the performances necessary to face the activity in the summer season: light resistance as well as maximum comfort. In addition to the values of sustainability, high performance, breathability, comfort on the skin, shape  retention and resistance, ease of maintenance, style and ergonomics, there is now the commercial distribution of the uniform, which finally passes from the team to the end consumer who can purchase it exclusively on the Rosti e-shop.