From the Sector

Singapore - Huntsman Textile Effects today confirmed that it has joined the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme as a Contributor. This adds a new dimension to Huntsman’s long-standing efforts to promote sustainable chemistry and best practice in the textile and footwear industries and help lead the sector’s shift to a cleaner and more transparent global supply chain.

Huntsman Textile Effects is proud to be joining over 25 leading brands working together to drive industry-wide change in responsible chemicals management and commits to working on this task in a collaborative and open manner.

As a ZDHC Contributor, Huntsman Textile Effects has uploaded detailed safety and sustainability information of its key products onto the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module. This will support brands and mills in selecting products and practices to make their supply chains more sustainable. Huntsman Textile Effects will also continue to work to help brands improve their competitiveness while protecting consumers, workers and the environment.

The addition of industry-leader Huntsman Textile Effects to the ZDHC Contributor base represents a significant strengthening of ZDHC as a robust, broad-based solution with the potential to harmonize the industry’s approach to sustainable chemistry and the elimination of hazardous chemicals.

“Huntsman Textile Effects firmly believes that collective action is the best way forward for our industry and that working with ZDHC will help us further accelerate the shift to a cleaner and more transparent supply chain,” said Rohit Aggarwal, President, Huntsman Textile Effects. “As one of the world’s leading suppliers of sustainable textile dyes, inks and chemicals, we have seen time and time again that brands and mills that embrace sustainability can also boost their productivity and competitiveness and reduce costs. Our approach has always been to marry environmental and economic sustainability for a stronger, cleaner and more viable textile sector.”

Huntsman Textile Effects has been a leader in promoting sustainability through continuous innovation and industry collaboration for many years. It champions an inclusive and holistic approach that ensures compliance to industry regulation and standards and considers the impact of the textile value chain on the ecosystem, economy and society at large.

• Interfilière Paris, 6th-8th July 2019, booth D60

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

A range that culminates today in the launch of an athleisure and sporty-chic capsule collection that perfectly fit the contemporary modern wardrobe, result of a qualified and totally traceable supply chain, from yarn up to garment, based on design, sustainability and performance.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the AI2020/2021 on the extension of the offer with new Black label’s developments between lace and embroidery, the premium R&D line.

The range of new Ultralight multicolor laces offers jacquardtronic and textronic 4 or 5 colours galloons with a 3D effect. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives life to unique coordinated solutions for creatives. The match between expectations of brands and retailers are met always keeping as a priority the contemporary design, that is integrated to unique strategy committed to responsibility both at corporate and product level.

To ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project, its space at Interfilière where visitors will have the chance to discover the new collection and above all to experience and touch latest boundaries of lace smart innovations pursued staying true to the values the brand. Iluna team is pleased to welcome you with a special cadeaux created in collaboration with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Miles Johnson and Creative Room™ designed a capsule collection “Light on the Land”, for men and women to showcase ISKO™’s R- TWO™ program.

As the world’s leading ingredient denim brand, ISKO™ is at the forefront of the sustainable and responsible fashion movement. ISKO™, who loves to partner with likeminded designers, brands and retailers in the  industry that have a passion for Responsible Innovation™, is proud to announce its partnership with renowned British fashion designer Miles Johnson. Together they have created a visionary collection that will be launched at a private showing event on September 12th, at the Fremin Gallery in New York City.

For those who love denim and cherish the planet, this partnership is a perfect match as  Miles is known for prioritizing sustainability and responsibility in his work. Miles has held leadership positions such as Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., where he served as a pioneer in creating clothing using sustainably sourced materials. For this capsule collection, Miles worked side by side with ISKO™’s Research & Development team utilizing the ISKO R-TWO™ program which combines a mix of reused and recycled materials. The reused cotton comes from ISKO™’s own production loss, which they continuously track and trace. This has the CCS (Content Claim Standard) certification. They combine this reused cotton with recycled polyester derived from PET bottles. Depending on the content, fabrics can have the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

The creative direction for the collection takes form with “Light on the Land” and the whole collection is made using low impact materials and responsible finishing techniques. Miles and the ISKO™ team carefully crafted 34 designs at the Creative Room™ in Italy. The styles incorporate responsible design principles which include:

• Minimal washing;
• Removable trims made of eco-metal;
• Natural based buttons and labels;
• Green bar tacks;
• Embroidered rivets.

Environmental messages are embroidered on six of the pieces, by the artist Giulio Miglietta. The garments are built to last and the more you wear these pieces, the more beautiful they become.

The new generation of smart - and water saving! – cotton, an innovative brand-new collaborative business model bringing companies together to create smart and sustainable collections for the wardrobe, a textile ‘bank’ to inspire and empower creatives committed to design responsible fashion and more…

C.L.A.S.S. – the acronym for Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy - is the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication. Founded by Giusy Bettoni - entrepreneur, innovator as well as Première Vision’s sustainability consultant - the platform has become an influential player supporting leading textile and fashion companies to develop, establish and narrate their true sustainable commitment. In Paris, C.L.A.S.S. will bring forward its vision and strategy with a set of initiatives, talks and projects.

“For the third time, we will join Première Vision’s SMART CREATION district with a triple mission: providing all strategic tools to trigger change, raising awareness on sustainability and bringing companies and professionals together to share the ultimate smart innovation.” Explains Giusy Bettoni.

DyStar released its Sustainability Performance Report for 2018 – 2019, based on its defined Four Key Performance Indicators – Creating responsible products and services, Sustainable business growth, Conserving planetary resources and Caring for people.

Mr. Eric Hopmann, CEO of DyStar Group said, “Our commitment to sustainability at DyStar is illustrated across the way we performed our businesses. By making positive impacts toward the entire supply chain, we are being a responsible corporate citizen, and at the same time helping our customers to do likewise.”

Into its ninth year of reporting, DyStar has shown significant improvements through the year of 2018. Among other achievements, DyStar’s relentless efforts have paid off in terms of organization’s financial performance, achieving double-digit growth in revenue of 11%, and has helped to operationally reduce overall production footprint by 20% for every ton of production.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

• Production capacities increased to 320,000 tons p.a.
• Investments of EUR 60 mn enhance self-sufficiency and strengthen autonomy from market prices
• Project serves as a significant economic driver in the region

Lenzing AG, producer of pulp and fibers from the renewable raw material wood, has concluded its expansion and modernization drive at the pulp plant at the Lenzing site. The company invested EUR 60 mn for this purpose, increasing production capacities for dissolving pulp extracted from beech wood from 300,000 to 320,000 tons per year. The coming on stream of the additional pulp capacities over the past weeks strengthens Lenzing’s self-supply of pulp in accordance with the sCore TEN corporate strategy.

“The successful expansion brings us closer to achieving our strategic objective of increasing our self-supply of pulp to a level of 75 percent, thus making us even more resistant to price fluctuations in sourcing pulp”, says Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group. “We are also pleased that this project enables us to make a further significant contribution towards strengthening the Lenzing site as well as the regional economy”, Mr. Doboczky adds.

The expansion drive was completed in less than two years. In addition to 100 Lenzing Group employees, numerous external partner companies from Upper Austria and neighboring regions were involved in implementing the project. About 40,000 working days were needed by external companies in order to install the delivered machinery on site. The Lenzing Group secured additional jobs due to the pre-production work required in the factories of these suppliers.

In line with the corporate strategy of the Lenzing Group, the self-supply of dissolving wood pulp will be successively increased in the coming years to 75 percent of consumption. At present, Lenzing’s own pulp plants in Lenzing and Paskov (Czech Republic) cover 60 percent of the Group’s pulp requirements. The Lenzing site primarily makes use of beech wood which is not suitable for producing furniture, whereas it mainly relies on spruce wood in the Czech Republic. The remaining dissolving wood pulp is sourced from a variety of hardwoods and softwoods from international partners. In this case, in the spirit of sustainability, Lenzing applies procurement rules which are just as strict as when it purchases wood for its own pulp production.

„CONTENT, EXCHANGE AND INSPIRATION“

“We are on exactly the right track with our focal topics and concepts on the subject of Digitalisation, Sustainability and Retail Experiences. The feedback was overwhelmingly very positive. The concepts we have developed in recent months are spot on the contemporary pulse and there is considerable need for dialogue between all the parties. At PREMIUM we succeeded in breathing life into a new dynamic with the new brand mix in the halls and the focus on key looks. The stands looked truly amazing and a lot of time had clearly been spent working on the collections, too. The buyers loved the overall impact of this. They felt better appealed to, oriented – and entertained.
 
The PREMIUM GROUP stands for content, communication and inspiration. The feedback on the quality of the visitors to PREMIUM, SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM and SEEK resonated overwhelmingly positively. Visitors are taking new trends and contacts home with them. There were buyers visiting from Stylebop, Macy’s or Caliroots. 

A new generation of ecological PU coatings with water vapour permeability

Today, nearly all “breathable“ PU direct coatings are applied from solvent systems. These products partly contain very harmful and environmentally hazardous solvents.
To solve the “solvent“ problem, RUDOLF GROUP developed ECO-VENT®:

A water-based coating solution that opens up new perspectives for numerous coated fabrics, which are permeable to water vapour and, thus, breathable.
The optimum PFC-free, waterproof and breathable protective clothing can be finished with RUDOLF’s cluster of supreme technologies:

• Outer fabric finished with BIONIC-FINISH®ECO
• Direct coating made from ECO-VENT®
• Lining with moisture control due to hydrophilic HYDROCOOL®