From the Sector

Hologenix, creators of Celliant®, infrared responsive technology, and Kelheim Fibres, a world-leading manufacturer of viscose specialty fibers, have partnered to launch Celliant Viscose at ISPO Munich 2021. Celliant Viscose is a finalist in Best Products by ISPO and will be showcased in the Fibers & Insulations Category for ISPO Textrends, where realistic views and 3-D simulations will be available for each material.

The introduction of nature-based Celliant Viscose will be the first in-fiber infrared sustainable solution on the market and meets a consumer demand for more environmentally friendly textiles. An alternative to synthetic fibers and extremely versatile, Celliant Viscose blends beautifully with cotton, micromodal, lyocell, wool varieties including cashmere. It also has many applications across industries as it is ideal for performance wear, luxury loungewear, casual wear and bedding.

Celliant Viscose features natural, ethically sourced minerals embedded into plant-based fibers to create infrared products that capture and convert body heat into infrared, increasing local circulation and improved cellular oxygenation. This results in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep.

Celliant Viscose provides all the benefits of being a viscose fiber — lightweight, soft, highly breathable, excellent moisture management — as well as fiber enhancements from Celliant infrared technology. Celliant’s proprietary blend of natural minerals allows textiles to capture and convert body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy, resulting in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep. In addition, Celliant is durable and will not wash out, lasting the useful life of the product it powers.

An Affordable, Long-lasting Solution with Diverse Applications
As opposed to other IR viscose products which are coatings based, Celliant Viscose’s in-fiber solution increases wearability and longevity with a soft feel, durability from washing and longer life. The combination of Kelheim’s distinctive technology and the Celliant additives creates this unique fiber that provides full functionality without the need for any additional processing step — a new standard in the field of sustainable IR viscose fibers. This single processing also makes Celliant Viscose more cost-effective and time-efficient than coatings.

In addition, Kelheim’s flexible technology allows targeted interventions in the viscose fiber process. By modifying the fiber’s dimensions or cross sections or by incorporating additives into the fiber matrix, Kelheim can precisely define the fiber’s properties according to the specific needs of the end product.

Highly Sustainable
Celliant Viscose is a plant and mineral-based solution for brands seeking an alternative to synthetic fibers. It contains natural raw materials that are from the earth and can return safely to the earth.

Nature-based Celliant Viscose is certified by FSC® or PEFC™, which guarantees the origin in sustainably managed plantations, and is part of the CanopyStyle initiative to protect ancient and endangered forests. The production of Celliant Viscose takes place exclusively at the Kelheim facilities in Germany, complying with the country’s strict environmental laws and guaranteeing an overall eco-friendly product.

Backed by Science
Celliant is rigorously tested by a Science Advisory Board composed of experts in the fields of physics, biology, chemistry and medicine. The Science Advisory Board has overseen 10 clinical, technical and physical trials, and seven published studies that demonstrate Celliant’s effectiveness and the benefits of infrared energy.

For more information, visit www.celliant.com/celliant-viscose/

Video Material Stories focus on the highlight products of the PERFORMANCE FORUM which were rewarded with a 100% Jury Like and include detailed explanations by the exhibitors. You can watch the videos here, check out the details, ask any question to the exhibitors and request samples!

• Lightweight, Downproof & Insulation Trends of the Season

The selected insulations are all produced ecologically responsibly, at the same time they are lightweight, breathable and insulate well. The lightweight and downproof fabrics of winter 22/23 are ultra-light, breathable and heat-insulating. It is astonishing that lightweights can now be processed from Econyl and other recycled fibres without losing any of their lightness. Almost all fibres – from nylon, Econyl, polyamide to polyester – are over 90 per cent recycled, and often dyed with vegetable variants or dyed in a dope dyed process.

• Softshells & Outer Midlayers of the Season

Warming, windproof and water-repellent jackets worn outdoors as an outer layer during sports or leisure activities typify the Softshell/Outer Midlayer category. Polyamide and polyester fibres remain dominant in winter 22/23. But anyone on the lookout for natural fibres will find various blends of organic cotton, Tencel or wool.

• Midlayers of the Season

Midlayers are primarily intended to provide warmth when layering garments. The focus is on newer constructions to generate heat, yet at the same time, manufacturers are attempting to reduce or completely avoid the use of micro-plastics in the development process.

• The Bavarian Kelheim Fibres GmbH has become the first viscose fibre manufacturer worldwide to receive EMAS certification.

“Our aspiration is that our fibres offer an eco-friendly and high-performance alternative to synthetic materials”, says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres. “So, it’s not enough that our fibres are made from renewable resources and that they are fully biodegradable – our environmental awareness must include the whole production process and all that goes with it if we want to safeguard our credibility.

The EMAS certification proves that we take this responsibility seriously.” EMAS stands for “Eco Management and Audit Scheme” and is a standardised eco management certification system developed by the European Union. EMAS includes the globally applicable ISO 14001 standard and goes beyond its requirements by demanding more transparency and continuous improvement: Certified companies report in their annual EMAS Environmental Statement on their environmental goals and their progress in meeting them.

During the audit preceding the certification, the independent environmental auditor thoroughly investigated all departments of the company, from the production itself to the company canteen. He found no non-conformances and was impressed by the competence and the high sense of responsibility among Kelheim’s employees. In contrast to the EU Ecolabel and similar certifications, EMAS does not apply to individual products or services, but certifies the complete environmental performance of the company. This benefits not only the protection of the environment and climate, but also the improvement of a company’s ecoefficiency.

Craig Barker: “An efficient environmental management system ensures that economy and ecology go hand in hand – that gives us a decisive competitive edge.”

Tata Communications, a global digital ecosystem enabler, has been recognised by global environmental non-profit organisation, Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) with the distinguished ‘A-’ leadership score for implementing current best practices in sustainability for climate change. Tata Communications score is higher than the global average of ‘C’ and higher than the Asia region average of ‘D’. The Company scores the highest global score for playing a leading role in Climate Change governance, value chain management, energy efficiency, risk and opportunity disclosures in CDP 2020 reporting.

Tata Communications is among the top 34% companies globally to have received the leadership score for best practices out of 9,600+ companies that reported environmental disclosures this year. The scores are attributed basis a comprehensive peer benchmarking and sustainability performance.

The company made some strategic shifts in implementing several energy efficiency measures and this recognition reaffirms its focus on sustainability. In fiscal 2020, Tata Communications sourced approximately 15 million units of renewable energy and implemented emission reduction initiatives resulting in energy savings to the tune of 0.8 million units.

Tata Communications Sustainability strategy is based on the three facets of environment, social and governance (ESG) principles. The Company’s objective is to drive value creation for its stakeholders and drive sustainable business growth by managing risks and embracing opportunities, implementing robust governance practices and optimising the economic, environmental and social performance.

Kelheim Fibres has been named as one of the finalists for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2021” innovation award to be presented at the 2nd International Conference on Cellulose Fibres. With their plant-based and biodegradable fibres, the Bavarian viscose speciality fibres manufacturer presents a significant contribution to a plastic-free future for AHP (absorbent hygiene products). In contrast to other natural fibres, which are already available in fibre form and can only be treated on the surface, Kelheim’s technological flexibility offers the possibility to modify cross-sections and to introduce additives into the fibre matrix for intrinsic functionalisation. Through these modifications, Kelheim tailors its fibres specifically to the requirements of the individual nonwoven layers of the AHP and is able to achieve comparable performance values to synthetic fibres. 

In addition to this, the speciality fibres from Kelheim offer a very attractive ratio of cost to performance in comparison with other fibres of natural origin such as organic cotton. They are therefore not only able to enhance the performance of the final products more effectively than other bio-based alternatives, but are, at the same time, financially attractive. "Consumers of absorbent hygiene products are often faced with a choice between sustainable solutions made from fibres of natural origin and products with better performance and good fluid management properties produced using synthetic fibres,“ says Dominik Mayer, from Kelheim’s R&D team. „Our goal is to offer products to the consumer which combine both sustainability and performance. Our sustainable and functional fibre technologies now make this possible.“

The project is a good illustration of the central element of Kelheim Fibres‘ innovation philosophy: the identification of unsolved problems in the market and the development of solutions in close cooperation with experts along the value chain using open innovation techniques. Fibres from Kelheim also offer a significant contribution to overcoming one of the biggest global challenges of our time, by reducing the amount of plastic waste in the environment. Step by step, or in this case layer by layer – Kelheim Fibres is moving towards a vision of a plastic-free future.

Kelheim’s developments include the hydrophobized Olea fibre (for fast acquisition and efficient transfer of liquid and for better rewet values in the topsheet) as well as the Galaxy® fibre (for an efficient and optimised distribution of liquids in the Acquisition Distribution Layer (ADL) via capillary channels) and the Bramante fibre (which can store up to 260% of its own weight of liquids in chambers inside the fibre). Kelheim’s fibres can also be processed in the textile sector, to enable solutions in the field of reusable hygiene products such as menstrual underwear. All these fibres are already commercially available. Kelheim Fibres is cooperating with an innovative AHP manufacturer and an innovative nonwoven supplier to incorporate the fibres into new end products.

• Partnership offers customers access to full-scale garment design, manufacturing and packaging

Ascend Performance Materials has announced a commercial agreement with The S Group, a globally recognized provider of apparel design, development and manufacturing. The alliance will focus on commercialization of Acteev Protect™ antimicrobial yarns, fibers and fabrics, offering customers full-scale supply chain service from garment design to delivery.

The agreement pairs Ascend's world-class manufacturing operations with The S Group’s track record of success in the wholesale and direct-to-consumer apparel industry. “Our customers will now benefit from a revolutionary antimicrobial material combined with end-to-end support to guide a product from ideation to actualization,” said Lu Zhang, vice president of Acteev.

The S Group offers complete supply chain management for apparel brands, including product development, manufacturing, logistics, quality assurance, packaging and order fulfillment. The company lists some of the world’s most recognized brands among its partners, including Lululemon, New Balance and Mack Weldon. Athleisure, performance, scrubs, and seamless products such as intimates, leggings, active wear, socks and gaiters will be available.

Gary Peck, CEO of The S Group, says his team is excited about the commercial potential of Acteev, especially given the new reality of global health concerns. “Garment design has primarily focused on functionality, sustainability and comfort,” said Peck. “The past year has made us all aware that safety can be a valuable feature of fabrics as well, and Acteev checks all those boxes.”

Acteev is Ascend’s patent-pending technology that embeds zinc ions in a polymer to create fibers with long-lasting antimicrobial properties. The result is a fabric that destroys odor-causing bacteria and fungi. Acteev technology is available in a wide range of textiles featuring the flexibility, softness and durability of nylon 6,6.

Recent testing on knit fabric completed at the University of Cambridge has demonstrated that Acteev technology deactivates the virus that causes COVID-19, SARS-CoV-2, with 99.9% efficacy on contact1. Ascend is working with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and other governmental agencies to obtain the appropriate regulatory clearances to make specific claims regarding the technology’s antiviral properties.

International technology Group ANDRITZ has signed an agreement with Laroche, based in Cours, France, to acquire LM Industries comprising Laroche SA and Miltec SA, France. ANDRITZ will take over all Laroche entities and their business worldwide. Closing of the transaction, which is subject to approval by the ANDRITZ Supervisory Board, is expected at the beginning of 2021.

Laroche is a leading supplier of fiber processing technologies such as opening, blending and dosing, airlay web forming, textile waste recycling and decortication of bast fibers. The product portfolio further complements the ANDRITZ Nonwoven product range. ANDRITZ is now able to offer the complete supply and value chain, from the raw material, to opening and blending, web forming, bonding, finishing, drying, and converting. Laroche’s high-performance technologies for opening and blending enhance the ANDRITZ scope of supply for spunlace, needlepunch and wetlaid production lines. Moreover, both companies have agreed to further strengthen the development of their existing technologies for high-speed and high-capacity applications and also to continue pursuing the development of textile recycling processes in order to stay ahead of the changes the industry is facing.

Laroche SA has been developing fiber processing technologies for more than 100 years. With integrated manufacturing, the company supplies lines for a wide range of industries/products: spinning, bedding and furniture, automotive, acoustic and thermal insulation, geotextiles, filtration, wipes, and many more.

Robert Laroche, President of Laroche: “This acquisition is the logical conclusion in view of the successful long-term relationship between ANDRITZ and Laroche. We have been working in close cooperation for more than ten years and are very much looking forward to becoming a member of the ANDRITZ family.”

Andreas Lukas, Senior Vice President and Division Manager, ANDRITZ Nonwoven: “By adding Laroche’s state-of-the-art products and expertise to our existing capabilities, ANDRITZ Nonwoven will further strengthen its market and technology position.”

Finer adjustment of the yarn suction force, lower compressed air consumption for the same yarn tension, smooth, ergonomic compressed-air valve – all promises fulfilled by the modernized AS H 32 and AS H 38 yarn suction devices.

Also known as hand injectors, these yarn suction devices are standard components of all spinning positions. The AS H 32- and AS H 38-series are high-performance hand injectors with lower compressed air consumption for the same yarn tension. This is made possible due to the higher yarn suction forces, particularly in the case of the AS H 38 series. In addition to this, string-up without ‘ramp-up’ is possible in certain applications. Also new is a smoother, more ergonomic compressed-air valve, which makes deploying the yarn suction devices more comfortable for users. Furthermore, the required yarn suction force can be adjusted more finely.

The new ‘high-performance devices’ have been designed for applications that require a particularly high suction performance. For several months now, they have been successfully operating in pilot projects within the context of a BCF yarn application in Europe and a tape yarn system located in the US.

Cobra International, Chonburi, Thailand: COBRA International, one of the world’s largest OEM manufacturers of composite goods for Water Sports, Automotive, Marine and Civil Engineering, is pleased to confirm the shipment of its first 36 composite canoes to ARE Tahiti.

COBRA has collaborated with leading outrigger canoe brand ARE Tahiti to mass produce its new OC-1 canoe, ‘Mana’. Designed by former professional windsurfer Baptiste Gossein  (JP Australia and Neil Pryde), ‘Mana’ features a closed deck on which the paddler sits on top of the hull. Available in two models; a hybrid version weighing 12kg, using an 80:20 mix of E-glass and carbon fibre reinforcement fabrics, and the PRO model – a weight optimized, ultra-light, full carbon version that weighs as little as 9kg.   

“We required the best in composite construction for both models, a stunning final finish and a build rate that could keep up with our growing order book”, comments Baptiste Gossein.

As with all of COBRA’s watersports’ projects, a perfect master model formed the basis of the mass production tooling and two sets of composite hull tooling were taken from the master plug allowing a build rate of up to 50 OC-1 canoes per month.

For the lay-up and construction process, COBRA’s high-performance PVC foam sandwich windsurf board construction provided a solid starting point.  Having selected vacuum consolidated epoxy wet layup for the mix of woven and stitched biaxial reinforcements, COBRA was able to build down to the customer’s weight target with the absolute minimum of waste and additional consumables.  Top and bottom sections of the hull were moulded separately then bonded together, with the smaller outrigger hull – known as the ‘ama’ – produced in the same way.  Prepreg carbon fibre and in-house split mould tooling was also used for the two ‘Iakos’ - the two cross beams that join the ama to the main hull. 

An in-mould applied finish coat was then used for the hybrid OC-1 while the PRO carbon fibre model benefits from COBRA’s ultra-light paint system.

“COBRA is able to provide mass production capability and rapid new model turnaround, as well as delivering consistently high quality. We are delighted with the first COBRA built OC-1s and have received exceptionally positive feedback from both customers and racers” comments Baptiste Gossein.

The next ARE project to enter mass production at COBRA will be the V-1 canoe. Similar to the OC-1 but an open boat that the paddler sits inside, the V-1 will have no rudder or steering system, requiring more finesse to manage underway.

“The OC-1 outrigger canoe is a superb example of our customer focused approach to production process development.  By working closely with Baptiste and the ARE team, COBRA is able to provide mass production capability and a rapid new model turnaround, as well as delivering consistently high quality.  This is a sector in which we expect to see significant expansion over the next few years”, comments Danu Chotikapanich, CEO, COBRA International.

• An introspective and emotional journey of transformation
• The global leading jersey manufacturer launches a brand-new collection deliberately “raw”, a back to matter, materials and origins as individuals that are able to change and evolve.
   

Another big step of TINTEX Naturally Advanced Evolution

TINTEX has over time established itself as a global leader in smart innovation with its high quality, natural based responsible jersey fabrics using the latest and best sustainable high-tech dyeing and finishing processes, implementing expertly controlled processing to drive material innovation and manufacture a full range of natural based smart materials, optimizing superior and responsible fashion solutions.

The new collection confirms the Naturally Advanced Evolution vision as the right approach:  to work together in a deeper way - textile producers and fashion brands - to develop solutions, innovations with a strong environment-driven approach and cutting-edge technology able to offer contemporary consumer a brand new smart and performing choice.  As result, Raw is a true Naturally Advanced Evolution of the modern human being, explaining a story with no more genders and races, just focused on contemporary values.

The concept behind the AW 21/22 Raw Collection is turning back to nature and to our origins, a journey through emotional, spiritual and physical changes. Thinking about what’s happening around us as planet and individuals in an era of unpredictable challenges, we need to be creative reinventing us every day in different ways, aware of a new society and way of consuming where environment and human needs count.  A unique collection with three different approaches to mix together through a colour palette that goes from raw, dirty beige to a warm pinkish red and a false black-bluish gray.

fluidity, human, natural reconnection. An introspective journey where it’s all about ourselves and who we are. Through light and translucent fabrics, touches of peach and waxes in warm reds and burgundy, we find delicate, natural and extra light fabrics that flow on the skin to symbolically represent the inner fight from who we are and who we want to be. Organic cotton and Tencel™ Modal Micro processed in a special way, are at the center of this stage.
 
raw beauty, reuse, less is more. With this line, the company gives new life to existing articles, showing all the beauty of the raw material and the transformation they went through. This re-transformation of materials reflects the inner transformation; reborn of human beings, of time, of challenges through a new perspective where we reinvent ourselves, home, habits and planet. Our capability, skills to give new life to things it is not something we forgot through time. Organic cotton, Tencel™ Modal Micro, European hemp, Q-Nova® recycled polyamide and ROICA™ EF premium sustainable recycled stretch fiber are the materials boosting th experience.
 
timeless, versatile utility, urban. In a history of deep blues, with clean and dense touches, we come to acceptance, to a future where we relearn to live with what we already had. Organic cotton, Tencel™ Modal Micro and Texloop™ guarantee timeless performed articles, where the high-performance pairs to sustainable process especially at yarn level.

Freedom for ourselves, comfort, flexibility, movement are the concepts the company explores looking not only to sportswear market, but to all the markets where the most comfortable yet performing and responsible materials - from recycled synthetics to organic cotton - are the “right value choice”.