From the Sector

• HUB 1922, the fashion division of the RUDOLF GROUP, takes the stage at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam and presents new technologies that make it possible to move away from environmentally questionable industrial practices.
• HUB 1922 also announces the opening of the new company building in an ancient textile factory near Milan.

Amsterdam/Geretsried/Milan. It was only six months ago that the RUDOLF GROUP, with its fashion Division named HUB 1922, began its journey through the fascinating world of garment finishing. Since then, the team has made significant progress and has moved from being a newcomer to the business to a solid and reliable reality. “HUB 1922 introduces the Rudolf Group to design thinking,” says Alberto De Conti, Head of Fashion Division at Rudolf Group. “And when you break perceived restrictions and paradigms within a strongly science-driven organization, only sky is the limit.”

For an entire semester, the organisation remained focused on one, single goal without getting distracted from it: to become the partner of choice for environmentally conscious advancements in garment processing that are rooted in real experience and science.

Emphasis was put on listening attentively to the market and on engineering solutions proactively, without being prompted.
When it comes to Denim, two separate yet correlated calls for action were heard:
1. the need for a serious departure from established industrial practices that are environmentally questionable
2. the opportunity to change the current rules and stir toward enhanced product quality.

Departure from the environmentally questionable

• HypNO: The next generation of bleach

Many attempts to technical alternatives to local and total denim bleaching have been launched in the market, over the past five years, by a number of competing players. Originality and innovation are at the base of HypNO technical uniqueness that can be injected into traditional denim processing, but that can also be used to create whole new processes and aesthetics.
Birth child of relentless dedication to science, HypNO is the latest alternative to the traditional denim bleaching agents currently under the spotlight because of their alleged safety issues. HypNO is the next generation of bleach.

- HypNO is based on the application of a whole new family of RUCORIT compounds, which are halogene-free and heavy metal-free
- HypNO can replace both potassium permanganate and sodium hypochlorite with one more eco-friendly solution
- HypNO is free from unpleasant smells; it is production friendly and suitable for both spray and bath applications
- HypNO does not require neutralisation with agents such as sodium metabisulphite or peroxides, hence reducing the need for chemicals significantly
- HypNO is GOTS approved. Bluesign and ZDHC Chemical Gateway certifications are intended
- HypNO further helps in the elimination of pumice stones
- HypNO is highly efficient and has been engineered to be cost competitive compared to other existing bleaching solutions

Toward enhanced product quality

• SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue

Durability over time still builds a brands’ reputation for quality. The notion of “durability” has changed over the years and has moved from sturdy workwear to the product's ability to retain its characteristics and structural properties.

“It goes against the whole denim philosophy, but, jeans are increasingly bought for what they look like at the time of purchase and are expected to evolve as little as possible. It is what it is; you can’t argue with consumers” says De Conti.

SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue, the three new technical concepts launched at Kingpins Amsterdam by the RUDOLF GROUP all sit under the umbrella wings of enhanced quality and specifically address long-lasting softness, preservation of original look and depth of blue.

• SoSoft

All appreciate the softness and suppleness of used/worn denim and the comfort benefit it delivers. It is a generic denim truth, and it is even stronger when it can extend over time. SoSsoft is about softeners carefully engineered for an enduring emotion, one that lives along favourite clothes.

Tried and tested to over 15 home washes, these marvels of chemical engineering allow consumers to toss domestic fabric softeners to the benefit of environmental sustainability.

• RawLong

Denim lovers want raw jeans to fade with time, soften and transform into what feels like an extension of their body. More often, people just want to prolong the look they chose. In both cases, home washing is a headache.

Years of testing have identified RawLong innovative, highly durable and natural solution that keep wearers fresh and at ease in their jeans allowing for long-wearing without washing. Moreover, less home washing means much less impact on the environment.

• DuraBlue

The role of designers is to come up with the bluest of blue jeans in a spectrum of fantastic new blue finishes and supporting textures. The role of DuraBlue is to ensure a continuously updated collection of technical solutions that keep that rich, deep, dark blueness of jeans for much longer while limiting the quality issues that come with denim rubbing. In other words, light underwear, snowy shoes, and white sofas no longer live in fear.

The launch of HUB 1922

• Busto Arsizio, Italy.

On a discreet street of Busto Arsizio, a village at the North of Milan is a red-brick building which in the 1800’s was the house of a textile mill. This 150-year-old structure is where the RUDOLF GROUP, the 100-year-old leader of textile, functional, responsible chemistry, is about to open its Fashion Division. Or, better, it’s HUB 1922.

HUB 1922 is committed to research and develop innovation within garment processing for the privately held mother company. HUB 1922, whose doors are expected to open during fourth quarter of 2018, will foster collaborative efforts with international fashion brands and retailers, will provide product innovation ideas at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality and will introduce elements of unorthodox diversity rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true environmental responsibility, technical innovation and creativity. “At a time when science plays such a powerful role in the life of society, it is incumbent on fashion to be dealing with scientific research. HUB 1922 facilitates that reunion” concludes De Conti.

This year Swiss company Schoeller Textil AG, is celebrating 150 years of tradition and future opportunities. As a global textile solutions brand, the company specializes in the development and production of innovative technical fabrics and smart textile finishing technologies. What began as Switzerland’s first worsted yarn spinning mill in 1868, has achieved worldwide recognition for its high-tech textiles and its dedication to sustainability. For its more than 500 brand partners in 50 countries, Schoeller produces an average of over six million meters of performance textiles per year in its mills in Sevelen, Switzerland and Balingen, Germany.

When Rudolph Schoeller established what would be called “Schoeller & Sohne” in Zurich in 1868, it was within an age of ground-breaking achievement and progress inspired by the beginnings of the Swiss Red Cross and the completion of the Gotthard Tunnel in Switzerland. Schoeller quickly expanded its business and in 1954 went on to purchase a textile mill in Sevelen, located in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley, which currently serves as the company’s headquarters. That mill would soon launch the very first elastic fabric for the ski industry – or the world’s very first soft shell fabric – under the name “skifans.”

With an investment in an Innovation Center with testing labs and additional production facilities, Carl Meiser GmbH&Co KG gives a clear statement to it’s location in Albstadt in Central Europe. As well this underlines the know-how and the motivation of the whole team. The constructions were already launched. The first buildings for production and a part if the Innovation Center will be ready end of this year. State of the art offices and social facilities will be ready to move in mid of 2019.

“After our suffered setback with the fire in our production facilities in November 2017, this investment will move us much more forward and will give us the motivation to offer our customers even better and more innovative service and products. In long-term view this will creates the base for further growth”, says Jens Meiser CEO of Carl Meiser GmbH&Co.KG. During the last months we already invested in production technology and machines. During the last weeks we changed the complete production organisation to reach a lean product flow.

As well Meiser expanded it’s apprenticeship programme during the last years. At the moment we apprentice new staff members in three different education programmes. It is planned to add a fourth in management in future.

The company Carl Meiser GmbH&Co.KG with it’s brand „MEISER – Know How in textiles“ delivers to the high end underwear and lingerie industry as specialised dyehouse for knitted fabrics. With the brand “NOPMA technical textiles” the company acts as a fast growing development and production partner for the aviation, automotive and furniture industry as well the protection fabric industry. For this industries coated fabrics are developed and delivered to the markets. “In this sector we grow continuous during the last years. We are convinced that our investment in the Innovation Center will support this growth next to our first presence as exhibitor on the fair Techtex in 2019”, says Jens Meiser.

In the approval phase the company was supported by the city of Albstadt in all necessary questions. Fast and possible solutions were found. This shows the Mittelstands-friendly climate in this region in south Germany. The invest is supported by the national programme “Spitze auf dem Land” by the country of Baden-Württemberg and the EU.

Huntsman Textile Effects and ICI Pakistan today entered into a strategic collaboration under which ICI Pakistan will market and distribute Huntsman's wide range of high-quality textile dyes, chemicals, digital inks and services in Pakistan. The collaboration will combine Huntsman Textile Effects’ global experience in downstream marketing, product innovation and product stewardship with ICI Pakistan’s extensive and well established local network of customers and suppliers.

The textile sector accounts for *57% of Pakistan’s exports and 40% of the industrial workforce, but rising costs and tougher global competition are becoming increasing challenges for the industry as a whole. Huntsman Textile Effects and ICI Pakistan through this alliance are fully committed to support the efforts of Pakistan’s Ministry of Textile to boost productivity and sustainability of the sector.

“Sharing a common vision of a stronger textile sector in Pakistan, Huntsman Textile Effects and ICI Pakistan are combining our resources to respond to this important market with greater speed, more flexibility and a higher standard of service. Together, we are in an even stronger position to support customers here and help them produce higher-value products from a cleaner and more modern supply chain,” said Chuck Hirsch, Vice President, Commercial and Technical Resources, Huntsman Textile Effects.

“ICI Pakistan’s commitment to health, safety and environmental sustainability is the cornerstone of our operations, and in Huntsman Textile Effects we have found a partner who matches our dedication. As two customer-centric organizations with a passion for innovation, we are set to deliver enduring value for the textile sector by supporting local companies to capture global emerging opportunities,” said Arshaduddin Ahmed, Vice President Chemicals & Agri Sciences Business, ICI Pakistan Ltd.

Built on an island right off the Finnish capital Helsinki, the Nolla cabin represents an ecological alternative to cabin life.

This summer, living with minimal emissions will be put to the test. Neste is building a prototype of a cabin that has a minimal environmental impact in terms of both carbon dioxide emissions and concrete impact on nature. The Nolla (= zero) cabin, designed by Finnish designer Robin Falck, is located just outside Helsinki city center, on the Vallisaari island. The cabin has been built from sustainable materials and is designed for a simple lifestyle with minimal to no emissions, taking into account the surrounding nature in every respect.

Located on the idyllic island of Vallisaari in the Helsinki archipelago, the Nolla cabin encourages people to consider how modern solutions and innovations could enable sustainable cabin living. Vallisaari has been in a natural state for decades and is thus the perfect location for an urban cabin experience, located at a 20-minute boat ride away from the Helsinki market square. The ecological and mobile Nolla cabin will be in Vallisaari until the end of September, demonstrating a lifestyle that generates minimal to no emissions.

Placing the compact and mobile cabin on its private lot does not require a construction permit
and it has been designed to use building materials as effectively as possible. The cabin is the size of a small bedroom and can be assembled and transported without heavy machinery, leaving its environment nearly untouched. The Nolla cabin has been designed by Finnish designer Robin Falck, whose earlier design, Nido cabin, has been globally acknowledged.

The Nolla cabin introduces solutions, which enable minimizing cabin life emissions remarkably. The energy supply of the cabin is entirely renewable; electricity is generated by solar panels, whilst the Wallas stove, reserved for cooking and heating, runs entirely on Neste MY Renewable Diesel, made 100% from waste and residue. The Aava Lines raft operating between Helsinki city centre and Vallisaari will also run on Neste MY Renewable diesel that can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by up to 90%.

“With the Nolla cabin, we want to offer visitors the possibility to experience modern cabin life in the realm of nature, with minimal emissions. An ecological lifestyle does not only require giving up unsustainable commodities, but also discovering modern, sustainable solutions that can be used instead. This has been an essential part of the design process”, says Falck.

“Finns are known for spending time at their beloved summer houses. We wanted to explore sustainable solutions that could enable cabin life with minimal emissions. Shared and circular economy, as well as new technologies and innovations have made it possible to enjoy our cabins without harming or burdening the environment. Some of the solutions that have been used at the Nolla cabin are perfectly adaptable at any cabin”, says Sirpa Tuomi, Marketing Director at Neste.

The Nolla cabin is executed in collaboration with Fortum, Wallas and Stockmann and is part of the Journey to Zero project by Neste, which explores new ideas and aims to steer the world towards a cleaner future with fewer emissions.

The Perlon Group is making great strides on its journey towards the future and is therefore vigorously implementing the measures required to achieve its aim. This aim (known internally as ‘strategy 2020’) provides for the next level of globalisation and the sustainable growth of the market leader in the production of synthetic filaments. Through the extensive relocation of existing; and the generation of additional production capacity, the requirements have been accomplished and will thus directly serve increasing demand in the main volume markets. Part of this strategy, is the integration of one of the four German sites into the remaining three, this will then strengthen those sites and support the expansion of the factories in the USA and China.

The key to this success is a highly qualified and motivated personnel, engaged and focussed project staff and lastly but by no means least, loyal customers all of whom welcome this future direction and support us, their longstanding business partner. Important milestones are being reached with minimum disruption to the daily business in spite of a continuingly healthy order book

Important Milestones have so far been

• Implementing the newly built finished goods warehouse and a production line for PMC-Monofil at Hahl Inc, the production site in Lexington, SC
• Completing the building of the production hall with integrated admin building and starting to fit out the interior of the new production site in Haining, China. This is on schedule for the fixed opening date of 29 November 2018.
• Implementing an additional production line for PMC-Monofil into the Munderkingen site in Germany. Furthermore the planning for the transfer of an additional production line has also been finalised.
• Completion of the plant layout in the Industrial park in Bobingen (Germany) to allow for the transfer of several production lines from their current homes in Dormagen and Recytec in Munderkingen (Perlon’s recycling business).

With the help of a tailwind from the targets achieved thus far, Florian Kisling (Perlon CEO) and his team are looking forward with optimism to the additional transformation and the finalisation of this mammoth ground breaking project. They are already thinking ahead to the subsequent project ‘2020+’.

Emphasis on Process, Third-party Validation and Outcome-based Testing

Ventura Uniform Services of Kenner, Louisiana has had their certification renewed for Hygienically Clean Healthcare, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.

The laundry was first certified in 2014. Recertification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.

“Congratulations to Ventura Uniform Services on their recertification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their ongoing commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Koch Membrane Systems, Inc. (Koch), a global leader in membrane filtration technologies, announced its PURON® Membrane Bio-Reactor (MBR) modules have been selected for the Ji’nan Wastewater Treatment Plant I and Plant II Expansion Project. Each plant will have 100,000 m3/day treating capacity. The site is located in the Shandong province, which is China’s second-most populated province, with over 100 million people. This project continues the strong presence of Koch’s PURON® MBR in various municipal and industrial wastewater treatment projects in China, demonstrating exceptional performance and creating value to clients.

Strict new discharge requirements by the Chinese government are forcing municipalities to upgrade or build their wastewater treatment plants using new technologies. PURON® MBR technology was selected for these two new plants for its reliable and consistent effluent quality, adherence to new discharge limits, and reduced footprint compared to conventional wastewater treatment technology.

These wastewater treatment plants will be built and operated by China Everbright Water Limited Co. Ltd, a company principally engaged in construction and operation of integrated environmental water services. The project is expected to be commissioned by the end of 2018.

“We have had good experience with Koch Membrane Systems PURON® MBR technology in the 55,000 m3/day Beijing Daxing Tiantanghe Waste Water Treatment Project,” said Mr. Wang Huailin, president of Jiangsu Kaimi Membrane Technology Co. Ltd, who will design, build and supply the membrane system for these plants. “Since the 2016 Beijing plant startup, the PURON® membranes have been used in an underground construction model to provide a pollution-free installation. We have been impressed with the low fouling and low operating costs from the PURON® product, due to its unique single header and central aeration design features and the process expertise Koch brings to the table.”

“Koch has developed advanced membrane solutions for the municipal and industrial market segments,” said Mr. Manny Singh, president of Koch Membrane Systems. “Unique features of our PURON® product help the market treat wastewater to meet strict discharge and reuse targets with a low cost of ownership. We are excited that Everbright Water Group recognized the benefits of our PURON® product in their existing plant and selected us for their flagship new projects.”

• Fibres for automotive composites, technical textiles, hygiene and medical nonwovens
• UltraLink fibres offer sustainable system cost reduction solutions to the automotive industry
• Meralux offers improved liquid management for a dry feeling
• Stand 2034, ANEX 2018, 6-8 June, Tokyo Big Sight, Japan

Beaulieu Fibres International, the leading European polyolefin fibre supplier, marks its Asia Nonwovens Exhibition and Conference (ANEX) debut with unique products and capabilities to support innovation at a local level within the automotive and hygiene segments.

At Stand 2034, Beaulieu Fibres International demonstrates its commitment to the global market growth for automotive composites and technical textiles, as interest increases in adopting lightweight materials to reduce vehicle weight and fuel efficiency.

The company will present UltraLink bonding fibres that improve the mechanical, thermal and functional properties of the final part, allowing customers to meet OEM specific standards in a more sustainable way. They are available in both MONO and BICO technology – a first for the composites industry.

Jefrem Jennard, Global Sales Director – Industrial Fibres, comments: “Beaulieu Fibres International developed UltraLink fibres over the past two years to provide an answer to the automotive industry’s continuous strive for lower weight, lower emission, lower cost and better properties. They are being introduced in new global automotive programmes with SOP 2019-2021. We are delighted to introduce them to the Asian market at ANEX.”

At ANEX 2018, Beaulieu Fibres International also presents its platform of unique Meralux fibres offering significant improvements to the dryness of nonwoven for hygiene and medical applications. The BICO fibre has a special cross section, which enables it to provide bulk, opacity and enhanced fluid management compared to standard round fibres to nonwoven constructions. As a result, a dry feeling is achieved for the final nonwoven.

Petra Bohle-Stricker, Global Sales Director – Hygiene Fibres, comments: “As Asia Pacific heads towards becoming the largest regional tissue and hygiene market by the end of 2025  , nonwovens producers can already take advantage of the benefits of Meralux to launch new and innovative products that will grab the attention of global and local manufacturers. Visitors to our ANEX booth can experience Meralux fibres first-hand in nonwoven samples.”

Since Meralux was first launched in April 2017, the portfolio has expanded to include Meralux T and Meralux Soft. Beaulieu Fibres International is currently expanding its production programme with polyester-core (PET) BICO. In addition a pilot line for new developments is under construction. Both are expected to come on stream in 2018.

Emphasis on Process, Third-party Validation and Outcome-based Testing
HandCraft Linen Services’ Richmond, Virginia laundry has had their certification renewed for Hygienically Clean Healthcare, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.

The laundry was first certified in 2014. Recertification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

•             Employees are properly trained and protected
•             Managers understand regulatory requirements
•             OSHA-compliant
•             Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.