From the Sector

Hexcel’s Leading Position in Aerospace and Automotive Makes Hexcel a Trusted Partner for Urban Air Mobility

At this year’s JEC World in Paris on March 3-5, Hexcel will highlight the growing need for innovations in composite materials to support the emerging Urban Air Mobility (UAM) market.

Urban air mobility – urban transportation systems that move people by air or enable cargo deliveries – is the next big transportation innovation. Similar to taxis or ride sharing today, UAM will help remove congestion from our streets and provide a convenient, rapid method for travel in urban centers as well as in remote areas.

Advanced composite materials will be at the heart of UAM vehicles by providing lightweight, efficient, reliable, and cost-competitive options for manufacturing. “Materials have been a key driver of efficiency for aircraft today, and they will be even more important for the emerging UAM marketplace,” said Imad Atallah, Director of Strategic Marketing for Aerospace and Urban Air Mobility at Hexcel.

Already, Hexcel is a leader in advanced composite materials for the aerospace market and is a key supplier of composite materials to the automotive industry. So, the company is well positioned to offer solutions to meet the critical needs of high-rate and quick-part manufacturing cycles, in addition to low-cost needs for this space. Hexcel’s materials solutions approach for UAM is to make it greener and more sustainable, safer, more comfortable, and more affordable.

Hexcel’s broad range of carbon fiber and HexPly® prepreg solutions, including snap cure thermosets and thermoplastics, coupled with the most qualified positions on aerospace programs in the industry make the company a trusted partner for UAM. In addition to offering composite materials from carbon fibers, prepregs, honeycomb and reinforcements, Hexcel’s best-performing market solution in noise absorption on aircraft jet engines, Acousti-Cap®, provides a strong position of innovation to solve one of the most critical problems in the UAM space – community noise. “We are applying our technologies to the unique needs of urban air mobility vehicles,” Atallah said.

Hexcel’s ability to bring materials technology from the aerospace and automotive industries represents a unique strength in solving the critical challenges of UAM, especially around high-rate manufacturing, low-cost materials, light weighting, and noise. “Both thermoplastics and quick-cure thermoset materials are expected to have applications on UAM vehicles,” Atallah said. Furthermore, Hexcel’s broad product portfolio including unsized carbon fiber has proven to be the most compatible with thermoplastic resins from a consolidation perspective.

Captivating colours, optimum cost efficiency and a sustainable value chain: these are some of the typical features of Sappi’s Inkjet and Dye Sublimation Papers. The global manufacturer will showcase its diverse, high-quality product ranges at FESPA Madrid, in hall 3, stand D30.

• Transjet Drive dye sublimation paper tailored to industrial printing machines with a glue-belt system
• Scrolljet, a large inkjet paper, with impressively razor-sharp lines
• Digitally printed corrugated board with Fusion Topliner for consumer goods packing and displays

Eye-catching posters, textiles with excellent prints and labels that stand out clearly, this is how brand owners, advertising companies and retailers draw attention to themselves and their products. The comprehensive range of Sappi’s Dye Sublimation Papers, Inkjet Papers and Silicone Base Papers form the perfect basis for impressive brand communication. Customers and potential customers can come and convince themselves at this year’s FESPA event in Madrid, which takes place from 24 to 27 March.

Paper with impressive sustainable qualities
At its large exhibition stand in the Digital Printing hall, Sappi will showcase its Transjet range, which represents highest quality and optimal cost efficiency, offering also environmental advantages, such as low ink consumption and low transfer times. Minimal shrinkage of high elastic textiles is one of the key features of the Sportsline tacky grades. The special Transjet Drive, its extremely smooth backside and fast ink drying on the printable side, allow more efficient production on high-speed printers with glue belt systems. Sappi stands for much more than just the highest paper quality. Professional support through a special team of technical application engineers, Digital Solutions assist customers from their initial product idea to final production ensuring impressive results.

Differentiation through precision and sharpness
With its range of Inkjet papers, Sappi will demonstrate its considerable expertise in large format digital printing in Madrid. At the heart of the exhibition presentation is Scrolljet, a multi-layered coated paper for a wide range of outdoor applications, such as city light and mega light scrolling systems. DT-Plot and Swiss Matt are the best choice for graphic drawings and poster printing due to their exceptional colour results and the high precision and sharpness of the print.

Everything from a single, innovative source
When it comes to making classic packaging, shelf-ready packaging and POS displays stand out from the rest, marketing managers, brand owners and designers can always count on Fusion Topliner with its high degree of whiteness. As the topliner reproduces colours brilliantly and can be processed excellently, products made with this clearly stand out and attract attention. The product range presented by the paper and paperboard specialist is topped off by Silicone Base Papers for self-adhesive applications such as car wrapping, outdoor advertising and office supplies. This makes Sappi a versatile, long-term partner on which customers can rely. Sappi’s paper and paperboard thus go far beyond FESPA 2020: “Where colour comes alive.”

FOR POLYESTER AND “ACTIVE WEAR” COLOR TRENDS FOR WINTER 2021/2022

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is at the Première Vision exhibition to present its 'Color Atlas by Archroma®' for polyester. This very first color library for polyester brings together 1,440 colors for sportswear and athleisure, swimwear, children's clothing, shoes, as well as for fashion and home textiles. In this context of innovation, Carlin, a pioneer in anticipating trends since 1947, will present its selection of trends in active wear and will unveil the 3 hottest colors for winter 2021/2022: “In our societies now ruled by the vital need for ENTERTAINMENT, the DIVERGENT "extroverted Slashers", free-spirited and efficient, stimulate a MAXIMUM SELF-EXPRESSION which combines communicative power and contagious adrenaline.

In terms of shapes, we imagine assertive, shaked, keeled proportions, with volume contrasts: ultra-tight and stretched volumes. Concerning the materials, this refers to compact knits, fine nervous gauges (neo milano stretch pop), embossed ribs, colored furs, knitted materials, city: ultra-matte color drapery, double sides, jeans, over dye, deep dye.”

Selected in collaboration with fashion, sportswear and trend experts, the Color Atlas by Archroma® Polyester Library brings together new colors for in line with current trends, from the most neutral tones to the most vivid hues to fluorescent colors.

Fashion giant H&M Group and Danish retailer Coop are joining chemical expert NGO ChemSec’s call to action to end the use of harmful PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains.
This commitment comes on the same day as award-winning actor Mark Ruffalo and director Todd Haynes address the EU Parliament to speak about the true story that inspired the duo’s latest film Dark Waters, in which an environmental attorney takes on chemical giant DuPont and exposes decades of PFAS pollution.
ChemSec’s corporate PFAS initiative includes:

• A call on policy makers to regulate PFAS efficiently, without the possibility for manufacturers to simply swap one PFAS chemical for an unregulated “cousin”.
• A call on the chemical industry to put money into innovation and develop safer alternatives to PFAS for all kinds of products.
• A recognition that PFAS are a major health and environmental problem.
• A serious commitment to end all non-essential PFAS uses in products and supply chains.
• A call on all other brands to join this commitment and work towards a phase-out of PFAS in all kinds of consumer products.

The single biggest problem with PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop it from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing.  

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favoured for their durability and well-functioning properties; they provide properties such as non-stick, water repellence and anti-grease to many types of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans, outdoor gear and firefighting foam.
The industrial use of PFAS has been so prevalent in the last decades that today 99% of every human, including foetuses, have measurable levels of PFAS in their bloodstreams.   
What is worrying is that human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders, including various cancers, lowered birth weights and negative effects on the immune system.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

The origins of both Industry 4.0 and an awareness of the need for more sustainable manufacturing methods can arguably be traced back to the year 1971.

It was in 1971 that the first microprocessor was introduced by Intel, and also that the first and perhaps now most well-known environmental campaigner, Greenpeace, was founded.

As such, a direct line can be charted from that year to today’s automated textile manufacturing machinery concepts, as well as the drive to develop more increasingly resource-efficient processes.

All of the recent innovations which have been introduced to the market by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, for example, are being powered by the possibilities of Industry 4.0 and developed in response to the market demand for more sustainable production.

They include the new ‘digital twinning’ capability introduced in 2019 for all Monforts machines, with advanced sensor technologies which make it possible to access comprehensive technical machine data from any location using the company’s Smart Support and Smart Check apps. In addition, the digital twin system provides information on individual wear parts, such as, for example, converters or gears.

These latest developments have been very favourably received by Monforts customers, especially in Europe.

50th anniversary
The very first Heimtextil – the leading trade fair for the home textiles market – was also held in Frankfurt in January 1971 and Monforts customers Bierbaum Group and Konrad Hornschuch AG are amongst the German companies who were there from the very start and have attended every annual show since.

Bierbaum Group, based in Borken, is the company behind the well-known Irisette bedding brand and is celebrating its own 125th anniversary in 2020. It has also introduced products bearing the German government’s new Grüner Knopf textile seal of approval for sustainable production.

As a specialist in synthetic leathers for home surfaces, as well as vehicle interiors, Konrad Hornschuch AG, of Weissbach, has been a member of the €44 billion automotive giant Continental AG since 2016.

Representatives from both companies received memorial trophies at a special presentation held on January 7th during the 50th anniversary Heimtextil show.

The home textiles market remains very strong in Germany, with sales amounting to some €9.6 billion in 2019, according to analyst IFH Cologne.

Global growth
The first Heimtextil in 1971 was a significant success, attracting 679 exhibitors from 26 countries.

This year’s show, however, attracted a total of 2,952 exhibitors from 66 countries, reflecting not only the growth of the home textiles industry, but also the globalisation which has taken place over the last half century.

Monforts now has customers for its advanced finishing technologies around the world, with home textile customers from India and Pakistan being particularly well represented at Heimtextil 2020.

Among stand outs from Indian companies at this year’s show was the 2020 collection of Welspun India’s famous Christy England brand, inspired by botanical studies of the gardens of British stately homes. Welspun towels meanwhile benefit from the company’s HygroCotton hollow core yarn technology, produced by a proprietary spinning method which ensures they become softer, fluffier and more absorbent after every wash.

An equally ground-breaking new technology is being introduced by Trident Group, which is one of India’s largest vertically-integrated home textiles manufacturers and two years ago installed five complete Monforts finishing ranges for its new linen department.

Trident’s patented Air Rich yarns feature pores throughout their cross sections for high breathability and absorbency, as well as rapid drying.

Monforts home textile customers from Pakistan stressed the resource efficiency of their processes and products as a result of investments in advanced technology, and during the show the ‘Sustainable Pakistan’ initiative was announced.

Supported by GIZ, the German Society for International Cooperation, the initiative aims to reshape global perceptions of Pakistan’s manufacturers and their innovations. So far, twenty producers have been carefully chosen to be presented on this global platform and will help rebrand Pakistan’s textile industry at the Heimtextil exhibitions going forward.

Heimtextil’s organiser Messe Frankfurt also announced its own new alliance with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, in order to support the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

Constancy
Many things have changed since 1971 and home interiors are certainly no longer predominantly orange and brown – and perhaps unlikely to ever become so again.

It’s clear, however, that there has been a constancy in the push to consistently improve textile technologies, processes and products that may have originated in Europe, but have subsequently spread around the world.

And the significance of both microprocessors and sustainability in 2020 could only have been guessed at back in 1971.

Hexcel is collaborating with Madshus, innovator in the world of cross-country skiing, on the engineering of a range ofdry carbon fiber tapes for Madshus’ acclaimed cross-country racing skies. Hexcel’s new HiTape® Dry Carbon Tapes improve the performance, manufacturing efficiency and surface finish of Madshus Skis.

“HiTape® gives us exactly what we need for our automated production processes - consistency and quality. In particular the exceptionally clean edges of the tapes, really makes a difference in our molding process and enhances the surface finish of the finished ski. We always aim for the highest levels of quality and Hexcel HiTape® helps us to deliver that.” concludes Bjørn Ivar Austrem, Technical Director, Madshus.

Hexcel’s new HiTape® Dry Carbon Tapes for Madshus Skis will be on display at ISPO Munich 2020, from 26 to 29 January.

• Investment of approx. USD 1.3 bn in 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant
• Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
• Significant step towards carbon neutrality

The Lenzing Group and Duratex announced that they will build a 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant in the State of Minas Gerais, near Sao Paulo (Brazil). The start-up is planned for the first half of 2022. In the joint venture, Lenzing holds a 51 percent, Duratex a 49 percent stake. The expected industrial CAPEX will be approx. USD 1.3 bn. The project is financed through long-term debt. The corresponding financing contracts are expected to be concluded at the end of the first quarter of 2020.

Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
The new dissolving wood pulp plant strengthens the Lenzing Group’s backward integration and cost position as well as its specialty fiber growth in line with its sCore TEN corporate strategy. The single-line dissolving wood pulp plant with an annual nameplate capacity of 500,000 tons will be the largest and most competitive production facility of its kind. Dissolving wood pulp is a key raw material required for manufacturing Lenzing’s biobased fibers. The joint venture will supply the entire volume of dissolving wood pulp to the Lenzing Group.

“Wood-based cellulosic fibers offer an important contribution to enhance sustainability in the textile industry. In line with its corporate strategy sCore TEN, Lenzing is committed to drive organic growth in this market. With this investment, we will become more competitive, act more independently and subsequently strengthen our market position. The trust and support of the main shareholders of Lenzing and Duratex were of great importance for this key project”, states Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

Strong focus on sustainability
In planning the new production facility, particular importance was given to sustainability aspects. The joint venture secured FSC®-certified plantations1 covering an area of over 44,000 hectares to provide the necessary biomass. These plantations operate completely in accordance with the guidelines and high standards of the Lenzing Group for sourcing wood and pulp. The plant will operate among the highest productive and energy-efficient in the world and will feed the 40 percent of excess bioelectricity generated on site as “green energy” into the public grid. With this project, Lenzing sets a milestone in its strategy to carbon neutrality.

At the Shanghaitex trade fair Mayer & Cie. China (MCN) exhibited its new machine for manufacturing three-thread fleece. The MFC 3.2 is the first in-house development by the German circular knitting machine manufacturer’s Chinese subsidiary. It produces light to heavy linings and is specially geared to processing polyester yarn. The MFC 3.2 will be available from spring 2020; the material it produces is used in sports- and leisurewear.

“Three-thread fleece linings are popular all over the world,” says Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s technical director, “albeit with important regional differences. In Europe and America customers appreciate heavier, warm cotton fabrics, whereas in Asia light, fluffy fabrics made of mixed synthetic fibres are preferred. That is why the MFC 3.2 is a major addition to our Chinese portfolio.“

MFC 3.2: Tried and trusted basis, market-specific alignment
The new Chinese three-thread fleece machine is based on the established Mayer & Cie. MBF 3.2, the qualities of which deliver the goods in the MFC 3.2. They include the high quality of material on both sides of the fabric and the production of challenging weaves. At the same time, the Chinese Mayer & Cie. team attached importance to catering for local requirements, first and foremost processing polyester yarns. Thanks to cam parts developed in-house the new machine performs these tasks reliably and efficiently. At up to 30 rpm on a 30-inch diameter cylinder the MFC 3.2 produces three-thread fleece for sports- and leisurewear.

The MFC 3.2 is more than a three-thread fleece machine, however. A conversion kit transforms it into the MSC 3.2 II, the most popular machine in Mayer & Cie. China’s portfolio. The conversion works in both directions, which further upgrades the single jersey machine because “in the highly saturated Chinese single jersey market the fact that the MSC 3.2 II can be converted into a threethread fleece machine is an important selling point,” Managing Director Mayer notes.

“100 % NATURE” collection by Calida reflects a shared vision for sustainable fashion. A mission and a strong commitment combining comfort with technology, style and a responsible attitude.

Manufactured in a closed, particularly energy-efficient cycle and sourced from sustainably managed forests, the man/woman underwear and loungewear collection by leading fashion brand Calida reaches the 100% of sustainability thanks to the premium stretch fiber  ROICA™ delivers ultimate hyper-performance in both stretch and sustainability.

Cellulose-based premium materials are blended with ROICA™ V550; the non-toxic-release* innovation in sustainable elastic fibers, matching the need for elasticity , quality , comfort with the request for sustainability and respect for the environment.

ROICA™ V550 is part of ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, the latest and cutting edge range of ROICA™, the premium stretch fiber for the modern wardrobe by leading innovator Asahi Kasei.

“100% NATURE” is certified CRADLE TO CRADLE™, which means that raw materials can be used time and again in an ongoing biological cycle. CALIDA is also the first clothing brand worldwide to be awarded the ‘MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®’ label, which is based on compliance with strict social responsibility and ecological criteria and certifies that the textiles carrying the label have been tested for harmful substances.