From the Sector

Lectra, a leader in technology solutions for the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, will be listed in the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices of Euronext as of market close on September 15, 2023. This listing will enhance the visibility of the group with potential shareholders and customers in France and internationally.

Founded 50 years ago, the Lectra Group offers software, connected cutting equipment, data analysis solutions and associated services to players in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries to accelerate their digital transformation and transition to Industry 4.0. In 2017, the company initiated its Lectra 4.0 strategy, with the ambition of becoming an indispensable player in Industry 4.0 worldwide by 2030.

For Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Lectra: “Lectra's entry into the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices is an outstanding recognition of the successful actions we have taken over the past few years to ensure the profitable growth of our company and the success of our customers. We have changed dimension, notably with the acquisition of our historical competitor, Gerber Technology in June 2021. We have expanded our customer base, launched new cloud-based offerings which have enabled us to significantly increase the volume of SaaS software in our revenues, and offered new Customer Success Management services to support our customers. We have also made Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) one of the pillars of our strategy.”

• The new high-performance away kit design blends bold geometric prints with shades of halo pink and soft, pastel glow blue, pushing the boundaries of on-pitch sport style.
• The limited-edition range includes a gender-neutral game-day match shirt as well as comfort-first off-pitch pieces for pre- and post-match travel.

adidas and Arsenal have launched the next chapter of their collaboration with Stella McCartney, by revealing the first away kit and travel range for Arsenal Women.

The limited-edition range is designed to support Arsenal Women both on and off the pitch and includes a range of structured silhouettes including a jersey, shorts and stylish travel wear pieces such as a full zip jacket with neon accents, track-style pants, and an oversized tee. As the hero piece of the collection, the striking away shirt takes centre stage thanks to the fusion of geometric patterns with color-blocking accents of halo pink and glow blue. The shirt also features AEROREADY technology, which uses sweat-wicking and absorbent materials to keep players feeling dry.

Key pieces are crafted with at least 47% recycled polyester and 100% organic cotton as part of adidas' ambition to help end plastic waste.

After four decades in the packaging industry, the Manjushree Group is entering the Indian nonwovens market. The entrepreneurs rely on a flexible RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil to meet very different customer requirements.

The Manjushree Group operated a blown film line for packaging materials for the tea industry in the eastern part of India as early as 1983. In the years that followed, Manjushree Technopack Ltd. developed into one of the largest suppliers of solutions for rigid plastic products in South Asia - and the family business grew into a group with several business segments. In 2018, the entrepreneurial family repositioned itself: it sold its previous core business to a financial investor and established Manjushree Ventures with footholds in start-up financing, real estate business, and manufacturing - the largest of which is Manjushree Spntek as a producer of high-quality spunmelted fabrics.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-performance spunmelts on an RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil - benefiting both from many years of experience in the packaging industry and from experience with Reifenhäuser's blown film lines. "We know a lot about plastic extrusion, for example when it comes to line operating parameters such as temperature and pressure. Processing is similar in both industries," explains Rajat Kedia. "The main difference is the distribution of the products: In plastic packaging, we had an established customer base and sold a lot of material to the big consumer goods manufacturers. The nonwovens market in India, on the other hand, is still forming, with thousands of small companies currently getting involved." These serve customers in their regions, such as hospitals.

The RF Smart Composite line is a standardized spunmelt line for smaller and emerging markets. The line produces nonwovens of the highest Reicofil quality with appropriately adapted throughput. This makes it ideally suited for applications in hygiene and medical technology and, with typically 8,200 annual production hours, it is extremely reliable. In addition, operators can start production quickly because in many cases the line can be integrated into existing buildings.

Before production could start, Manjushree built a new production building in Bidadi, a town an hour's drive from Bangalore International Airport. The building is designed to be sustainable: It uses natural light and fresh air, has comprehensive contamination control, and obtains almost all of its energy from renewable sources. Reifenhäuser Reicofil then installed, commissioned and tested the RF Smart Composite line.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-quality spunmelted nonwovens, including ultra-soft fabrics and fabrics with special coatings for customers in the hygiene and medical industries. The material can be used, for example, for baby diapers and feminine hygiene products, but also for medical articles ranging from surgical gowns to surgical drapes.

Carbios inaugurated its textile preparation line at its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, in the presence of Mr. Lescure, French Minister for Industry. To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process. This patented line integrates all preparation stages (shredding and extraction of hard points such as buttons or fasteners), and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The platform will help validate the biorecycling technology for textiles at demonstration plant scale (by 2024), and provides Carbios with expertise in working with collection and sorting operators to specify the quality of textiles and the preparation steps needed to make them suitable for enzymatic recycling. This expertise will also be invaluable to brands in the eco-design of their products.

Current collection, sorting and preparation infrastructures limit the amount of textile waste available for “fiber-to-fiber” recycling. Collection rates average around 15-25% worldwide^[1], and much of the waste collected is exported to Africa, Asia or Latin America for sorting.

Moreover, textiles are highly complex materials, with yarns of different composition (or nature) that are difficult, if not impossible, to physically separate. However, the highly selective enzyme developed by Carbios can specifically depolymerize the PET (polyester) present in textile material.

At present, textiles are sorted and prepared mainly by hand, with low yields, particularly for disruptors to recycling processes such as “hard points” (zips, buttons, etc.). To optimize this crucial phase, Carbios is contributing a textile preparation solution to accelerate the development of biorecycling in the textile industry. Enzymatic recycling, or biorecycling, therefore contributes to the construction of a textile recycling chain and the acceleration of textile circularity, also enabling brands to do away with used bottles.

^[1] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

Every year, the internationally widespread and renowned Pantone color system releases the trend colors for the coming seasons with the Pantone View Colour Planner to show which color tendencies the fashion world is indicating. Pantone shows whether next season will be gaudy, pastel, nude, dark or earth-tone. The lifestyle-oriented color trend forecast offers seasonal inspiration, lead colors, color harmonies, and application ideas by material and product, providing plenty of ideas in advance for anyone designing women's and men's fashion, sportswear, cosmetics, interiors, industrial products, or multimedia content.

These trends are part of the newly released CHT Fashion News Spring/Summer 2024. Inspired by Pantone, CHT creates three different focus color worlds to realize your ideas color-wise. To ensure that these trend colors can also be precisely implemented and realized in practice, CHT offers the exact recipes in various product ranges at the same time.

With these clear recipe sheets, the desired shade can be easily dyed. There is something for every sector, from recipes for garment and polyamide dyeing to polyester, cellulose and printing, as well dye selections to support the achievement of C2C Certified® textiles.

Fashion News is available digitally as an e-paper on CHT ePaper Portal or in printed version on request.

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, a global sustainable chemical company, announced that it has recycled 100 billion post-consumer PET bottles since February 2011. This has diverted 2.1 million tons of waste from the environment and saved 2.9 million tons of carbon footprint from the product lifecycles. Demonstrating its commitment to support the establishment of a circular economy for PET, in the last ten years Indorama Ventures has spent more than $1 billion towards waste collection of used PET bottles.

The company has also committed a further $1.5 billion to expand its recycling business. To support increased recycling rates globally, Indorama Ventures has expanded its recycling facilities, infrastructure, and public education programs. The unique PET plastic used in soft drinks and water bottles is fully recyclable and is collected in practice and at scale. As a result, PET is the most recycled plastic in the world, and the company’s recycling achievements support that. Building on its position as the world’s largest producer of recycled resin used in plastic beverage bottles, Indorama Ventures is also seeking advanced technologies to deliver more recycling infrastructure globally and reduce lifecycle carbon emissions.

The company now has 20 recycling sites in Asia, the Americas, and Europe. Recent developments include doubling the capacity of a recycling site in Brazil; and the opening of PETValue, the largest bottle-to-bottle recycling facility in the Philippines, in partnership with Coca-Cola. Both part of a $300 million ‘Blue Loan’ Indorama Ventures received in 2020 from the International Finance Corporation (IFC), part of the World Bank, and Asian Development Bank. The loan has the objective of increasing recycling capacity and diverting plastic waste from landfills and oceans in Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, India, and Brazil - countries seeking support in managing environmental waste. Indorama Ventures has also partnered with the Yunus Foundation, a leading non-profit organization promoting sustainable development with a global network, with the goal of educating one million consumers globally about recycling by 2030 with 200,000 reached so far.

The continued weak development of the markets relevant to Lenzing, coupled with very cautious market expectations in 2023, requires a reassessment of Lenzing AG’s macroeconomic environment.

Taking into account the current lack of market recovery, the previous earnings forecast is not expected to be achieved. The Lenzing Group is therefore adjusting its forecast for earnings development and is assuming EBITDA in a range of EUR 270 mn to EUR 330 mn for the 2023 financial year.

CEO Stephan Sielaff: “The recovery expected for the second half of the year in the markets relevant to us has not yet occurred. This makes the early measures we took all the more correct. We launched an ambitious cost reduction program back in November 2022, which delivered the expected results ahead of schedule. Building on this, we are implementing a holistic and consistent value creation program with a focus on measures to strengthen profitability and cash flow generation and to exploit the growth potential in the fiber markets through targeted sales activities.”

The Lenzing Group will announce further details about the value creation program when it publishes its quarterly results on November 3, 2023.

Team Jumbo-Visma’s triumphant victories in Europe’s three Grand Tours of cycling, including the recent Vuelta a España, were supported by AGU’s cycling kits that are powered by the HeiQ Smart Temp thermoregulation technology.

HeiQ celebrates its collaboration with AGU, a high-performance sports gear manufacturer. Together, the companies integrated HeiQ Smart Temp technology into the jerseys of Jumbo-Visma, the triumphant team whose outstanding cyclists Jonas Vingegaard, Primoz Roglic, and Sepp Kuss won Europe’s three Grand Tours; the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Vuelta a España.

HeiQ Smart Temp, an innovative thermoregulation solution, dynamically responds to body heat and moisture, providing cyclists with a cooling effect when they need it most. This technology enhances comfort and performance, making it ideal for next-to-skin apparel, sportswear, and activewear.

AGU's product developers harnessed the power of HeiQ Smart Temp to create jerseys with cooling properties. The Jumbo-Visma team's lightest-weight jersey, weighing 25% less than their regular aero shirt, keeps athletes up to 2.5°C cooler than other performance fabrics.

Stahl, a leading provider of coating technologies for flexible substrates, has been awarded a Platinum rating by the sustainability rating agency EcoVadis for the second consecutive year. For the 2023 EcoVadis assessment, Stahl’s rating increased by three points compared to its 2022 score, reflecting the company’s improved performance in the area of labour and human rights.

Progress in the Labour & Human Rights category
The 2023 EcoVadis assessment revealed the progress Stahl is making in the Labour & Human Rights category, where Stahl scored 90 out of a possible 100 points. This reflects the company's recent work to improve its health and safety management systems. In particular, the majority of Stahl’s global manufacturing sites are now ISO 45001 certified and more than 94% are ISO 14001 certified. Stahl has also taken steps to improve its approach to employee career development and well-being. These include the creation of an individual career plan for all employees and the introduction of a new company-wide employee satisfaction survey.
 
Stahl moves forward with 2030 ESG ambitions
Stahl has set a 2030 target to maintain its EcoVadis Platinum rating by working closely with its value chain partners to help them reduce their impact. In 2022, 83% of Stahl’s total spend on raw materials was sourced from EcoVadis-rated suppliers.

EcoVadis is a globally recognised, evidence-based rating platform that assesses the performance of more than 90,000 organisations against key sustainability criteria across four categories: Environment, Labour & Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement. For the 2023 EcoVadis assessment, Stahl received an overall score of 80 out of 100, up from 77 in 2022. This score indicates an advanced level of sustainability maturity and ensures that Stahl retains its Platinum rating. This is awarded to the top 1% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. Stahl achieved its first Platinum rating in 2022, having undergone its first EcoVadis assessment in 2015.