From the Sector

Rejects Importer Attempts to Remove China 301 Tariffs on Finished Products

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, issued a statement today welcoming the Trump administration’s proposals on an economic stimulus package to gird the economy against the impact of the coronavirus outbreak, but the organization urged officials to reject any attempts by importers to remove China 301 tariffs on finished products as part of any relief package.

As part of a Phase One deal with China, the administration reduced duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept.1 from 15 percent to 7.5 percent. Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S. imports from China in the sector; while fiber, yarn, and fabric imports from China only represent 6.5 percent, according to government data.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers, including artificial and synthetic filament and fiber producers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 594,147 in 2018.

• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $76.8 billion in 2018.

• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $30.1 billion in 2018.

• Capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaled $2.0 billion in 2017, the last year for which data is available.

Diverging development in the two business units impact fiscal year 2019 of SGL Carbon – Group guidance for 2020 confirmed

• Consolidated sales revenues in fiscal year 2019 up by 4 percent to around 1.1 billion euros
• Consolidated recurring EBIT down by 25 percent to 48 million euros; record results of graphite specialities business did not fully compensate for the weak development in the carbon fiber business
• Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM): Cyclical und structural weaknesses impact the result of the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications, which have limited strategic significance in the medium term
• Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS): Sales and earnings on record level due to strong growth in the market segments Semiconductors and Automotive
• Non-cash impairment charge of around 75 million euros was recorded at CFM in the third quarter of 2019
• Free cash flow significantly improved
• Issue of a new corporate bond and early redemption of the 2015/2020 convertible bond has significantly improved the maturity profile
• SGL Carbon confirms guidance for fiscal year 2020: sales expected slightly below previous year; recurring EBIT approximately 10 to 15 percent below previous year level
• Dr. Michael Majerus, Spokesman of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon: “The financial development of the fiscal year 2019 conceals the fact that our strategic orientation is correct. This is evident from our growth and the increasing number of contracts and projects we acquired in our strategic core markets. Main drivers are the topics of sustainable mobility and energy as well as digitization. Therefore, we expect that we can grow our consolidated revenue by a mid to high single-digit percentage per year on average between 2020 and 2024.“

The fiscal year 2019 developed very differently in the two business units of SGL Carbon. The record results in the graphite specialities business could not fully compensate for the weak development in the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications in the carbon fiber business. Group sales grew by 4 percent to 1.1 billion euros. Recurring Group EBIT declined by 25 percent to 48 million euros. Due to the ongoing weakness in the market segments Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications the business unit CFM recorded a non-cash impairment loss of 75 million euros in the third quarter of 2019. With minus 90 (prior year: plus 41) million euros, consolidated Group result declined significantly compared to last year’s good results. The Group confirms its guidance for 2020 published in October 2019.

Group sales are expected to decline slightly compared to the prior-year level, whereas Group recurring EBIT is expected to reach a result around 10 to 15 percent below the prior-year level. Consolidated net result of the Group in 2020 should strongly improve compared to prior-year level to a low double-digit loss.

ISKO presented its 100% responsible platform, R-TWO™.

The denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWO™ to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, ISKO was the headline sponsor at The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum brings together responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.
As evidence of its Responsible Innovation™ approach, ISKO presented the R-TWO™ program, its latest
responsible achievement. Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWO™ represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its  environmental performance.
The R-TWO™ reduces the amount of raw material sourced by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric production.
Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, depending on the content percentages. Together with this cutting-edge and fully responsible program, ISKO also uses automated laser
technology developed in partnership with Jeanologia.

“How technology can help make the fashion industry more sustainable”:
On March 11th, ISKO hosted a discussion about ways, to make the fashion industry more responsible
The panel was moderated by David Shah, consultant on design and marketing development, Publisher and CEO at Metropolitan Publishing BV and Associate Professor at ARTez (Arnhem, the Netherlands) and Associate Professor at Renmin University, (Beijing, China). The talk involved Keith O’Brien, ISKO Marketing & Business Development Manager, Victoria Soto, Jeanologia Custom Technology Consultant and Filippo Ricci, Fashion Open Studio Program & Partnership Manager.

A BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY FOR DYEING POLYESTER AND ITS BLENDS

Huntsman Textile Effects introduces TERASIL® BLUE W, the latest addition to our TERASIL® W/WW range of wash fast disperse dyes. TERASIL® Blue W is designed to meet all major requirements for high-performance sportswear and athleisure wear. TERASIL® BLUE W stands out as the leading disperse wash fast blue dye in the market which is not sensitive to reduction, leading to higher reproducibility, right-first-time results and operational excellence.

Polyester fiber has become the fiber of choice in the textile industry, the demand for polyester and man-made fibers is expected to rise over the long term, as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand around the world. At the same time, leading brands, retailers and mills are increasingly focused on achieving brilliant and deep shades, consistent shade reproducibility, as well as water, energy and cost savings.

With cutting-edge disperse dye technology at its heart, TERASIL® BLUE W is developed by Huntsman Textile Effects to provide the leading solution for meeting industry’s wash fastness requirements. TERASIL® BLUE W offers an attractive shade and high build-up for deep blues which stays vibrant. TERASIL® BLUE W also provides quality assurance as products are bluesign® approved and suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products(1).

Non-contact precision spray technology enhances productivity, sustainability and process control

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has announced that it will showcase the TexCoat G4 non-contact precision spray fabric finishing system at the Techtextil North America tradeshow, held from May 12 to 14, 2020, in Atlanta (booth #3048).

With extensive sustainability benefits, unprecedented tracking and process control, and industry 4.0 integration, the TexCoat G4 provides consistently high-quality fabric finishing, with no chemistry waste, as well as minimal water and energy consumption. 

Baldwin’s innovative non-contact spray technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes. The TexCoat G4 consistently and uniformly sprays chemistry across the fabric surface and applies it only where needed, on one or both sides of the fabric. Customers can expect no bath contamination during the finishing process, as well as minimal downtime during changeovers, which are made easy with recipe management that includes automated chemistry and coverage selection.

The TexCoat G4 also enhances sustainability by wasting no chemistry during color, fabric or chemistry changeovers, and because only the required chemistry volume is applied to the fabric, wet pick-up levels can be reduced by up to 50 percent—leading to 50 percent less water and energy consumption. Furthermore, in single-side applications, drying steps can be eliminated for various textiles, including those that are back-coated and laminated, thereby streamlining and simplifying the production process.

• Order intake up 7% on previous year; orders amounting to CHF 401.6 million booked in fourth-quarter 2019 (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million)
• As expected, sales significantly down on previous year, falling by 29% to CHF 760 million
• EBIT margin of 11 .2% and net profit of 6.9% of sales, non - recurring profit contribution from sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany)
• Proposed dividend of CHF 4. 5 0 per share

In financial year 2019, Rieter recorded an order intake of CHF 926.1 million, which was 7% up on the prior-year period (2018: CHF 868.8 million). This development is attributable to a strong fourth quarter, in which Rieter booked orders totaling CHF 401.6 million (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million). At the end of 2019, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 500 million (December 31, 2018: about CHF 325 million).

In 2019, Rieter Group sales amounted to CHF 760.0 million (2018: CHF 1 075.2 million), which corresponds to a decrease of 29% compared to the previous year.

EBIT Margin, Net Profit and Free Cash Flow

Rieter generated an EBIT margin of 11.2% or CHF 84.9 million (2018: 4.0% or CHF 43.2 million). This includes the non - recurring profit from the sale of real estate in Ingolstadt in the amount of CHF 94.5 million. As a result of the capacity adjustment and cost reduction measures, the number of employees decreased by 11% to 4 591 (December 31, 2018: 5 134).

Net profit rose to CHF 52.4 million (6.9% of sales) and thus was significantly higher than in the previous year (2018: CHF 32.0 million or 3.0% of sales). The contribution from the sale of real estate in Ingolstadt had an impact of CHF 67.2 million (EUR 61.6 million) at the net profit level. Free cash flow in 2019 was CHF 42.3 million (2018: CHF 63.6 million). Net liquidity rose to CHF 162.1 million (December 31, 2018: CHF 150.2 million ). The equity ratio as of December 31, 2019, was 47.8% (prior-year balance sheet date: 44.6%).

And finishings of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection, continuing its ethical and sustainable path and having also exclusives collaborations with international brands
Italian Converter, a leading manufacturer of innovative fabrics for fashion, footwear and accessories, expands E.C.O. Kosmos, the fully traceable, transparent and 100% Made in Italy cross-collection. The acronym E.C.O. - Ecologic, Conversion, Optimization perfectly reflects the founding values of the Italian Converter philosophy and represents a further step in the company's responsible path. E.C.O. Kosmos has also been selected to be part of C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy) and also welcomed with enthusiasm the proposal to support C.L.A.S.S. Smart Materials Bank, the educational platform and e-shop of C.L.A.S.S. designed for young designers who want to discover and experiment with innovative and sustainable textile solutions from the best manufacturers in ways suitable for their reality.

Here are some highlights of the collection:

• E.C.O. Alba – E.C.O. Aurora, fabrics made of 50% casual cotton combined with AMNI SOUL ECO ® technology.
• E.C.O. Sonica is a semi-shiny satin with an elegant and refined appearance. the textile sector at an international level.
• E.C.O. Aly is a vintage effect raffia, a very trendy theme right now.

Netherlands-based operation expands on-demand garment decoration capabilities

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announces Netherlands-based Simian, an online total print provider to more than half a million businesses and end-consumers, is implementing the Kornit Atlas digital direct-to-garment (DTG) system to increase its capacity for delivering sustainable, retail-ready decorated apparel on demand. Simian is the parent company of online print providing sites Reclameland, Drukland, and Flyerzone.

Having established itself as a total print solutions provider for signage, banners, posters, flags, and other digitally printed textiles, Simian first entered the decorated apparel market by implementing two entry-level, single-pallet DTG systems. Kornit Atlas, which can imprint more than a thousand garments per day with a single operator, will enable them to increase capacity to accommodate ongoing growth in this line of business.
Offering lower total cost of ownership than other DTG systems, Atlas meets the retail quality, wash and light fastness, and sustainability standards of the world’s largest apparel brands. Simian will use the system for nontoxic decoration of baby apparel and accessories, in addition to t-shirts, polos, sweaters, vests, and tote bags.

In keeping with the brand’s internationalization strategy, Pinko is glad to announce an ambitious retail expansion plan in the Korean market.
The first phase of this retail project, developed in collaboration with Mitsui & Co. Italia and La Pace as local partner, saw the opening of two stores located inside two of the most important and prestigious Korean duty free shopping destinations.

The first Pinko shop in Korea opened its doors at the end of January at Seoul’s Shilla Duty Free Downtown Store, which houses the boutiques of the most prestigious global luxury brands. The inauguration of the second Pinko store in Korea was celebrated with an opening party on Feb. 20. This store is located in Seoul at the Hyundai Department Store Duty Free Dongdaemun, one of the most important Korean touristic attractions at day and night, thanks to its wide offering of merchan-dising categories, spanning from international luxury and fashion items to the highly popular Made in Korea beauty products.

Pinko’s retail expansion plan in the Korean market also includes the opening of two new stores by the end of 2020, while the company aims to operate a total of 14 boutiques, 6 inside department stores and 8 at Duty Free destinations, within three years.

Trevira will be joining the first BCFA Open Berlin pop-up exhibition, which will be held at the British Embassy on 6 May at the same time of Berlin Design Week (4 – 10 May 2020). The one-day fair is being organised by the British Contract Furnishing Association (BCFA), and members of the association will have the opportunity to display their products in the atrium of the post-modern embassy building.  

At the exhibition, specially invited interior designers and furnishers, along with purchasers from the contract market, will be able to find out more about the collections and products of high-end British manufacturers and textile houses, and attend interesting talks by two top specialists of the sector.

Trevira will be showing a selection of Trevira CS fabrics which were on display earlier this year at the Heimtextil 2020, where they featured in the special exhibition ‘Textile Future by Trevira CS’. These fabrics are permanently flame retardant and can be deployed in a wide range of applications, as Berlin design company studio aisslinger impressively showed in the exhibition at the Trevira stand. For the Heimtextil fair, the prestigious studio aisslinger design team worked together with Trevira, creating a concept that revealed just how attractive and playful Trevira CS fabrics can be in a variety of settings on the contract market, including hospitality, healthcare, workspaces, public spaces and transport.

Designers and architects who are interested in taking part in the event are welcome to register their details with Trevira.