From the Sector

Perlon^® - The Filament Company - headquartered in Munderkingen, Germany, which specializes in the manufacture of synthetic filaments for the Paper-, Brush-, Cosmetics- and Dental industry buys NOWO Products Sp.z.o.o. in Kluczbork, Poland. NOWO is a leading European producer of twisted monofilaments for the global paper industry. Perlon® herewith expands its market leadership in the Paper Machine Clothing segment through this acquisition which is regarded as a vertically integrated investment for the Perlon® Group.

“With the merger of the Perlon^® Group and NOWO, we are reinforcing a company that is geared towards the global paper industry of the future and we are expanding our market leadership in this segment. NOWO is a perfect fit for the Perlon^® Group with its long-term experience and special knowledge in the production of twisted monofilaments and this complements our existing product portfolio well.” states Florian Kisling, CEO of Perlon^®.

The Perlon^® Group will take over NOWO Products with all 40 employees and production lines located in the NOWO factory in Kluczbork, Poland.

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. has received two European Digital Press (EDP) Awards from the European graphics arts trade press, a prestigious technical awards programme that recognises innovative advancements in digital print production. The EFI™ VUTEk® Q5r roll-to-roll UV LED printer beat competition in the large/wide- format printing systems category for printers above 350-centimetres wide. EDP judges honoured EFI Fiery® software integration with finishers as the top solution in the awards programme’s category for software automation tools.

Automation, quality and value with award-winning roll-to-roll technology
The EFI VUTEk Q5r printer is a roll-to-roll display graphics printer, capable of running at speeds of up to 672 square metres per hour. The 5.2-metre-wide printer delivers a full system solution from file submission to a finished print with options such as in-line quality inspection, in-line slitting and cutting, roll and tape collection, auto-calibration, automated backlit printing, automated blockout printing and much more.
 
EFI VUTEk Q series printers, which include both the Q5r and a 3.5-metre wide VUTEk Q3r model, are available with up to nine colours including white and clear, and feature EFI UltraDrop™ Technology with native 7-picolitre printheads and multi-drop addressability for high-definition quality. Benefits include smoothness in shadows, gradients, and transitions, as well as precise and sharp 3-point size text with a true resolution of up to 1,200 dots per inch.

Fast, flawless finishing
EFI Fiery software integration with finishers, the winner in the EDP Awards category for best software automation tool, offers advanced integration with in-line or offline slitter/cutter/creasers. Operators can define cut, crease, and perforation locations on the job content in the Fiery software solution, which then communicates the configuration to finishing equipment, eliminating operator touchpoints and errors from incompatible layouts.

EFI Fiery software integration with finishers is offered in two different EFI Fiery software products: Fiery Impose and Fiery Finishing Designer.

Morocco has created an optimal basis for companies with the introduction of the duty-free zone. RINCO ULTRASONICS will take advantage of this opportunity and strengthen its own position in the Moroccan market by establishing RINCO Morocco. RINCO Morocco will act as a center for the African continent. The automotive industry as well as the textile industry are particularly well represented locally.

RINCO ULTRASONICS AG, headquartered in Romanshorn, Switzerland, has specialized in the development and manufacture of ultrasonic welding machines and ultrasonic cutting systems since its founding in 1976. RINCO products are used for reliable welding of plastic parts as well as for cutting food and synthetic textiles.

Zünd has evolved into a complete solutions provider in cutting/finishing workflows and automation. The market leader in digital cutting systems offers customers tailor-made workflow solutions for every step of digital production. In recognition of the wide-ranging benefits and exceptional price-performance ratio of these software solutions, a jury of experts from the European Digital Press Association EDP awarded them the distinction of «Best in Class».

Zünd receives EDP awards for three of its software tools. The jury declares PrimeCenter the «Best Workflow Solution», while the Pick&Place Interface Option and the Visualizing Option are recognized as «Best in Robotics» and «Best Print Support Tool», respectively.

Zünd is known worldwide for its advanced, high-performance digital cutting systems «made in Switzerland». For some time now, the Swiss manufacturer has also been making a name for itself with user-friendly automation software such as PrimeCenter for prepress, as well as the Visualizing Option and the Pick&Place Interface Option for digital production. The latter are two highly effective solutions for removing/unloading cut parts, offering visual support and robot integration, respectively. On account of its exceptional know-how and consulting expertise,

• PrimeCenter automation software serves as control center for creating print & cut files and enables a highly efficient and productive prepress workflow. In a few clicks, users create fully nested print & cut jobs.
   
• The Pick&Place Interface Option lets Zünd Cut Center – ZCC control a robotic device, enabling fully automated parts removal—picking, sorting, and placing at pre-defined locations.
   
•  The Visualizing Option provides visual support for parts removal. Cut parts are labeled via projection or monitor. The user is able to see at a glance which parts belong to which job and can apply labels for continuous Track&Trace.

For more than ten years, EDP has been evaluating products and developments in the graphics industry for excellence and for commendation through an evaluation process involving the EDP technical committee, a jury of experts, and finally, a general award assembly of EDP members.

Altri has awarded AFRY engineering, site selection and integrated environmental authorization services assignment for a greenfield textile fiber factory in Spain. In addition, AFRY will support Altri to conceive, create and implement foundations for Industry 4.0 technologies in this new plant.

The demand for sustainable textile fibres is growing quickly globally. To support this growth, the Portuguese pulp producer Altri has become the industrial partner to public-private consortium Impulsa (Society for the Development of Strategic Projects of Galicia) as the lead investor and technologist to study the wood-based textile fibers biofactory exclusively. This biofactory will use Galician wood as the primary raw material together with recycled remains from the textile industry to produce dissolving pulp and Lyocell fibre. The plant will be designed based on the best available techniques (BAT), best environmental practices, as well as cutting-edge proven technologies and the production will be fossil-fuel-free. The project is expected to benefit from the “Next Generation EU” program.

Altri is responsible for designing and developing the biofactory project to transform wood into a textile fiber, evaluating site locations and exploring alliances with the entire value chain. Altri has assigned AFRY to support the project development and planned project implementation.  

The industrial biorefinery to be built from scratch will be able to provide the textile cluster of the Iberian peninsula with sustainable cellulosic fibers, contributing to the strengthening of the circular economy and decarbonisation of an important economic sector such as the textile sector.

AFRY has been involved in the project development from the very early stages. AFRY supported the project concept idea initially developed by Altri and led the preliminary feasibility study. A multi-disciplinary team of AFRY’s engineering and consulting experts is currently supporting Altri on the site selection activities, engineering and permitting processes.

• 76 KL/Day water saving by optimizing pH analysis process in dye vessels
• A step closer to achieving the ‘Huntsman Horizon 2025’ goal
• Potential savings of over Rs 10 crore or USD146,000 annually from the project

Huntsman Textile Effects, the global leader in innovative and environmentally sustainable dyes, chemicals, and digital inks, has successfully implemented a water conservation process to improve water efficiency and reduce net water usage at its Baroda facility, which is located in the western region of India. The initiative undertaken at the plant aims to save around 76 kilo liters of Reverse Osmosis water per day by modifying the phase sequence in the pH measurement program.

Water is used extensively throughout textile processing operations. The amount of water used varies widely in the industry, depending on specific processes operated at the plant, equipment used, and policies concerning water use. This conservation project at the Baroda Plant will have a potential savings of Rs 10 crore or USD146,000 a year for the organization.

Speaking on the development, Mark Devaney, Vice President Manufacturing and Operations Excellence, Huntsman Textile Effects said, “At Huntsman, we recognize the important role we play in creating a more sustainable future and are committed to the well-being of the communities where we operate, and the protection of the environment. We are continually looking for ways to improve the environmental footprint of our manufacturing sites and have been implementing numerous projects in recent years to reduce our water usage.”

“The team has done a detailed assessment of the pH analysis process in dye vessels, mapping the existing water usage and potential conservation method. After a brief study and several brainstorming sessions, we were able to adjust the phase sequence, resulting in conservation of Reverse Osmosis water by almost 76 kilo liters of water per day.” said Kavishwar Kalambe, Site Director, Huntsman Textile Effects. “This project directly contributes to Huntsman’s Horizon 2025 goals to reduce net water usage at facilities in water-stressed regions,” he added.

Jamé’s concept.   
Jamé is inspired by the ancient Pay-Jamé: a piece of clothing that a woman or a man used to wear for fluid wellbeing 24/7 regardless of the activity, or the location, or duration time it is needed for. It’s a comfy refined outfit to make people feel free.

Jamè’s values.
Jamé is designed and made in Italy, digitally printed and created to deliver wellness, style, and 24/7 comfort.  
Jamé’s fabric of choice is Bemberg™, a textile that gives Jamé the highest contemporary qualities: Jamé garments are cool in summer, warm in winter, perfect all year round, fashionable, trendy and versatile. The ideal companion for everyday activities, Jamé is perfect for both indoors and outdoors, the perfect outfit for every occasion, day or night.

Environmental responsibility.
Every Jamé clothing is 100% recyclable and manufactured following a very contemporary and responsible made-to-order business model. The latest and greatest digital print technology assures us to avoid waste and over-production.
This means endless customization possibilities, creating a long lasting, high-quality product.

Styling.
Thanks to the expertise and knowledge of its founders Patrizia Marforio and Niccolò Zucchi Frua, Jamé’s vision is deeply rooted in the Italian design and textile tradition.
Jamé's historic archive - made up of more than 17.000 different textures from the 1920s to present day - seamlessly translating into the widest and deepest pattern choice in this one-of-a-kind collection.

Jamé’s fabric of choice:
Bemberg™ is the name of a technologically advanced fiber produced by Asahi Kasei. Bemberg™ is based on regenerated cellulose fiber made from the smart tech transformation of cotton linters.
As a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cotton seeds oil that is converted into fiber through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ DNA is deeply based on a circular economy approach.
Bemberg™ is gentle on the skin, with amazing touch and exceptional moisture management properties: it quickly absorbs and releases moisture through very small waterways, keeping the wearer cool, fresh, and comfortable at any time of the year.

Just under a year ago, the EREMA Group started to repurpose the premises of Gruber & Kaja in St. Marien, which they took over as a reserve site in January 2021. In the meantime, a lot is going on there.

"When this site came up for sale, it only took us a few days to decide to buy the 40,000m² plot, including the workshop hall, which has an area of 15,000m²," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of EREMA Group GmbH. Around EUR 20 million was invested in the purchase, as the site offered the opportunity to increase production capacity by 60 percent in the immediate vicinity of the company headquarters in Ansfelden.

The fact that this site is now already being used so intensively was not envisaged at the time, because at the end of 2020 the company was just completing the expansion to their headquarters in Ansfelden, involving an investment of around EUR 17 million. 20 new jobs have already been created as a result, with a further 30 to follow in the next few months. By the time the new site is completed, the total number of new jobs will be up to 150.

This development is due to the high demand for the EREMA Group's plastics recycling technologies and the trend towards ever-larger recycling plants. "Just in December, we delivered a VACUREMA® system to Brazil that will produce up to 40,000 metric tonnes of recycled PET (rPET) per year. That is equivalent to recycling around 1.1 billion 1.5-litre PET bottles. This site provides the perfect conditions for building this scale of machine," says Hackl.

Markus Achleitner, Upper Austria's Minister for the Economy, was also impressed by this development during his visit to St. Marien. "There is hardly any other region in the world that focuses as closely on materials expertise and the circular economy as in Upper Austria. We want to fully exploit this potential with our #upperVISION2030 business and research strategy. EREMA is an important driver in this industry. It makes me all the more pleased that the company owners have once again confirmed their commitment to Upper Austria as a business location, to the circular economy and to the employees by developing this site," says Achleitner. "This investment is an important positive signal for the entire region of Upper Austria location, especially in the current challenging times, and all the more so for creating 150 jobs," he emphasises.

New site milestones
Since January 2021, part of the existing office and hall space at Kunststoffstraße 1, as the site's address is now called, has been occupied by companies and departments of the EREMA Group. UMAC GmbH, a subsidiary specialising in servicing and trading previously owned recycling machines, which was severely short of space at its main location in Styria, moved its entire production and administration to St. Marien. Large areas of hall storage space were adapted for both UMAC and EREMA GmbH. The paint shop was also relocated from Ansfelden to St. Marien, and another hall was equipped for building large-scale VACUREMA® systems - these are systems used all over the world to recycle PET bottles. Production in this workshop is now being ramped up step by step.
Space that is not being used in St. Marien over the medium-term will be rented out. An industry-related firm has already moved in, and another 300 m² of office space is currently still available.

• Evopreg® range expanded with unidirectional fibre-reinforced thermoplastic tapes

Composites Evolution, a developer, manufacturer and supplier of prepregs for the production of lightweight structures from composite materials, has announced the launch of a new range of unidirectional thermoplastic tapes, to sit alongside its existing line-up of Evopreg® prepregs. The first product families being launched are Evopreg® PA polyamide tapes, and Evopreg® PP polypropylene tapes, with further product lines expected as new customer requirements emerge.

Thermoplastic tapes, also known as thermoplastic prepregs, can be used in a wide variety of markets and applications, including flexible pipes for oil & gas and water transportation, pressure vessels (for example; hydrogen storage tanks and compressed natural gas tanks), and for providing local reinforcement to pre-formed components.

Marketing Director, Ben Hargreaves, explains further: “Our state-of-the-art manufacturing line gives us the capability to produce tapes on an industrial scale, using a variety of combinations of fibre and polymer. This is complemented by a pilot-scale line that allows us to carry out development trials, or manufacture small quantities of tape if required.”

“Because they can be repeatedly re-formed (via the application of heat and pressure), Evopreg® thermoplastic tapes are also very well-suited to multi-stage processing, meaning they are an excellent choice for producing hybrid structures, inserts or over-moulded components. In addition, this ability to be repeatedly re-formed opens the door to much easier recycling than is currently possible with thermoset composites.”

• The Green Revolution: How Microfactories Can Change the Face of Fashion by Mark Sollman, Product Manager EMEA, Mimaki Europe

With the all-important COP26 Climate Change Conference having taken centre stage in November, there is no time like the present for the fashion world to rally together in stepping up sustainability efforts and getting carbon emissions under control. Globally, the fashion industry is now estimated to account for around 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of wastewater , making the pursuit of greener production methods more pertinent than ever before. Thankfully, we are seeing a new era of production enter the fashion arena, with the increasing emergence of technologically advanced, highly automated microfactories.

Along with reducing unnecessary waste through on-demand production, microfactories have a smaller ecological footprint than traditional garment production and require no water use during the production process, making it not only a faster solution, but a greener one too.

Last year’s FESPA saw Mimaki team up with fashion designer Carolina Guzman to bring her designs to life in real time at the show, setting up its own working microfactory live on-site to take her designs from screen to garment within just a day. Guzman’s designs were created using Mimaki’s TS100-1600 Sublimation Printer, before being transferred to textile, digitally cut and finally pieced together. Devised with a string of ethical and environmental objectives threaded throughout, the microfactory also exclusively utilised eco-friendly Greentex fabric, and any remaining material was donated to Sheltersuit: a wind- and waterproof coat that can be transformed into a sleeping bag, which is provided free of charge to homeless people and refugees.

Through working with a number of strategic partners – including transfer printing expert, Klieverik; paper solutions specialist, Neenah Coldenhove; and digital cutting equipment provider, Summa – Mimaki was able to produce a collection of unique, high-quality garments live on the stand during the tradeshow, demonstrating to visitors from more than 100 countries some of the key reasons that microfactories seem set to change the future of fashion…

Unparalleled speed and versatility
Where traditionally, apparel manufacturing has centred on a production chain model of sourcing materials and producing garments in bulk, microfactories are now enabling on-demand, on-location production, making it possible to create everything from unique, one-off pieces and samples right through to entire product lines – all at unprecedented speeds. This means greater flexibility and customisation, enabling designers to modify or update designs and respond to market trends as they occur.

Simplified supply chains and minimised risk
The microfactory setup brings production in-house and on-demand, minimising the cost of not only storing stock, but also of shipping it and responsibly disposing of unsold items. Where recent geopolitical events have highlighted the fragility of global supply chains, microfactories offer a unique independence from these systems, empowering garment manufacturers to future-proof their businesses, become less reliant on external systems and suppliers, and reduce the risk of disruptions.

A boosted bottom line and a greener future
Facilitating savings in a whole line of resources, from physical storage and production space to time and energy, microfactories ultimately have the potential to significantly increase profitability for garment manufacturers, with the additional benefit of being easily scalable as production increases. Perhaps even more compelling, however, are the environmental considerations. Demonstrated on a small scale through Mimaki’s recent project, the environmental benefits inherent to microfactory production will have an even greater impact as it becomes more prolific and commonplace throughout the fashion world, with the potential to effect meaningful environmental change as adoption increases in the years to come.