From the Sector

Stahl, an active proponent of responsible chemistry, has taken an important step toward realizing its target of having lifecycle assessment (LCA) data for all strategic products by the end of 2023. By working closely together with Spin 360, a tech-enabled sustainability consultancy, Stahl has achieved certification of LCA data generation systems, allowing verifiable information to be collected for its products.
LCA is a methodology that measures the impact of any product on the environment over the course of its life. The LCA methodology can provide quantitative data in a format that permits comparisons to be made. The certification of LCA data generation systems is a foundational step to ensuring the accuracy and reliability of future LCA analyses.

Through close collaboration, Stahl and Spin 360 have implemented an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) system – certified by Bureau Veritas – at Stahl’s site in Palazzolo, Italy. An EPD is an independently verified and registered document that communicates transparent and comparable information about the environment impact of products across their entire lifecycle. This implementation underlines Stahl’s commitment to enabling the sustainable development of its industry by driving accountability and transparency.

Michael Costello, Stahl Group ESG Director: “One of Stahl’s strategic ESG goals is to collect verifiable, high-quality LCA data for its products, thereby paving the way to lowering the environmental impact of the whole supply chain. This EPD system certification is an important achievement, and a key step in realizing this goal. Looking ahead, we’ll continue to work with our partners to enable our certified LCA data availability and shape a better industry.”

Federico Brugnoli, CEO of Spin 360: “We are very proud to have supported this complex process that will ensure the complete reliability of Stahl’s LCA data. Now we will look at the next steps in supporting Stahl, focusing environmental footprint reductions through science-based evolution of the industry. We’re confident that – together – we can ensure a better future for us all.”

For its 2021 Green Collection, the Italian luxury hosiery brand Sarah Borghi presents a broadened product offer in terms of colors and categories, meeting the needs of a stylish, yet sustainable consumer. By mixing fashion, quality, innovation and research, the tights and stockings powerhouse continues its development in the journey towards a conscious future.

The evolution of the Green Collection, the sustainable hosiery collection first launched in 2020, confirms the efforts of the brand in promoting a new generation of attractive fashion and design which actively encourages and supports a responsible change in culture and smart products offer.

Lately, a decisive step has been added to the brand’s history thanks to the publication of the Integrated Report by Gizeta Calze, Sarah Borghi’s top-notch producer and first Italian company in the hosiery sector to include sustainability throughout its business model. A commitment of responsibility and transparency on a path that has been carried on for years and that, today more than ever, becomes of the utmost importance, as stated by Luca Marzocchi, CEO of Gizeta Calze. The Integrated Report provides a complete view of the business strategy, operating model and governance, which combines financial information with sustainability insights, conceived as complementary to other strategies and, indeed, essential for increasing business value.

The collection
The collection presents a range of versatile, colorful products combined with extra-luxury comfort and designed for every type of woman: from seductive tights to everyday socks, together with knee- highs, up to athleisure with leggings.
 
The responsible collection features two new generation materials. One is Amni Soul Eco®, the world’s first biodegradable in anaerobic conditions polyamide 6.6 yarn that degrades in around 5 years* after disposing of in landfill, developed by SOLVAY and produced and distributed by FULGAR. The other is ROICA™ V550 by leading fiber manufacturer Asahi Kasei, a premium sustainable stretch yarn boasting the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute** as it has been evaluated for impact on human and environmental health. Moreover, it smartly breaks down without releasing harmful substances in the environment according to Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certification. Key elements that makes ROICA™ V550 a precious choice when it comes to Circular Economy material approach.

As of October 1, 2021, Dr. Annegret Vester has assumed responsibility for sustainability issues of the CHT Group. With the Doctor of Chemistry, the ideal person for the CSO position could be found in many respects.
 
Dr. Vester has many years of experience in the transformation of CHT into today's sustainability-focused chemical company in her positions as Head of Global CHT Marketing and as Head of Strategy and Business Development.

In recent years, she has been responsible for the company's excellent rating in the EcoVadis assessment with regard to corporate social responsibility activities. The realignment of the corporate strategy with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UNSDG) has been one of her tasks, as has the annually published CHT Sustainability Report documenting the measures and successes.

With the appointment of Dr. Vester, the CHT Management Board once again underlines the essential importance of sustainability for the strategic orientation of the globally operating group of companies.

Tonello presents O-Zone, a new garment finishing project developed with Candiani Denim, a leading brand in the denim industry.

O-Zone, just presented at Kingpins 24, represents a new leap in quality and an important step in the growth of Tonello'a range of ozone processes, which are born from direct experience, research and a deeper knowledge of technology.

First with ECOfree2, then with SaniCare and OBleach, now with O-Zone, Tonello are defining ozone finishing and taking it to its maximum expression in every field of application: creation of special effects, garment sanitization, cleaning and reduction of water consumption, etc.

What is O-Zone?
At first glance it is similar to a cabinet. A special cabinet, however, inside which the garments are placed and treated, through an innovative, sustainable, responsible process.

A process that is also flexible, fast, safe and fully controllable by a touch screen that allows you to easily set all the desired parameters to obtain unique and customizable aesthetics, such as localized discoloration and lightening, sun-faded looks and degradé effects.

O-Zone is designed for small productions and is ideal for doing experiments and research directly on the garment, quickly verifying the result.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles concluded its 27th autumn edition in early October. Held alongside four other concurrent textile shows, the fair was the only major event for this sector able to take place in China during this season, providing a much-needed business platform for 735 exhibitors and 20,106 trade buyers. The fair was held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd expressed: “Due to the valuable cooperation of many parties and the continued support of our exhibitors and other partners, we were able to hold the fair as scheduled despite a number of challenges. Since the pandemic situation was brought under control in China last year, we have expended considerable resources to ensure our textile fairs still take place to provide trading platforms that connect the global industry. This edition was especially important as it was the only major fair to take place in the country at this time.”

While a number of international exhibitors participated this year with individual booths, the Belgium Pavilion presented home and contract products and five Chinese regional pavilions from Hangzhou, Shaoxing, Huzhou, Haining, and Tongxiang also featured. Two trend forums also provided inspiration for 2022, while the IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery, New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers City Roving Exhibition and China International Fiber Art Exhibition gave further insights into various aspects of the industry.

Fair’s fringe programme highlights sustainability, design and more
As with all of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs around the world, sustainability is a big focus. A number of events under this focus took place in the fair’s fringe programme, including a half day forum titled How Sustainable Fashion is Reshaping Lifestyles, with a range of innovative companies and prestigious universities participating as speakers.

The Design Talk session featured a series of presentations from leading international designers, including from China, Japan and Europe, to share their design insights. And a new concept this year, titled New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers – Intertextile Upholstery Design and City Roving Exhibition, showcased the work of six groups of young local designers from across China who presented the interior design ideas of their generation through displays and a forum. And reflecting the changes that continue to accelerate in the industry, a number of e-commerce and cross-border trade events took place, including sessions from the likes of JD Home, AliExpress and Tmall.

The 2022 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition will take place from 9 – 11 March, while the Autumn Edition is scheduled for 23 – 25 August 2022.

• Polynova to gain market share for the GRAFE Group in the Swiss region from November The GRAFE Group, Blankenhain, has found a new sales representative for Switzerland in Polynova Group AG, Risch-Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

The partnership will be officially launched at Fakuma 2021. "Our new Swiss agency specialises in the distribution and production of high-quality technical plastic granulates and has been active on the market for more than 20 years. The company has a large customer base and the necessary technical expertise to advance our goals in this important market. This includes raising our profile, educating people about our product range and ultimately gaining market share," says Stefanie Theuerkauf, Sales Manager for the D-A-CH region. Polynova employs five sales staff and three in logistics, all of whom have a technical background. The company's own warehouse in Rothenburg also ensures the availability of the plastics.

"GRAFE fits perfectly into our product portfolio," says Thomas Weigl, co-owner and responsible for business development at the Swiss distribution company, whose employees recently underwent intensive training in Blankenhain. "Our customers come from the sports goods, housing technology, automotive supplier and medical technology sectors - there are many synergies with GRAFE." Weigl himself has extensive experience in the masterbatch sector and has worked for two companies in the industry - Sukano and Americhem - as managing director. "Swiss companies want Swiss contact persons. We speak the languages German, Italian and French, are on site in the shortest possible time, offer direct contact and understand the needs of the customers and the requirements of the market," he explains. "Polynova is thus faster, closer and more direct." "The Swiss market is large and important for us," reports Theuerkauf and Weigl explains the background: "There are over 300 plastics processors, many are family-run and very technically oriented. The origins of the companies are often in the watch industry and in the production of the smallest precision parts such as gear wheels. In addition, coffee machine manufacturers, medical technology providers and automotive suppliers are important market players. A large number of well-known OEMs are located here."

Even though there are already masterbatch manufacturers in the Alpine country, says the sales expert, no one has the know-how to adjust compounds and masterbatches as perfectly and precisely as the company from Thuringia. In addition to a complete range of colours on practically all plastic substrates, flame retardants, UV additives, thermal stabilisers or lubricants are further examples of the extensive product portfolio. GRAFE is one of the specialists in the modification of thermoplastics and is an innovation driver in the production of colour masterbatches. "The technical possibilities in terms of a state-of-the-art technical centre and production machinery, as well as one of the largest research and development departments in the industry, are also not to be found elsewhere on the Swiss market. Our task now is to bring these to the attention of domestic customers," says Thomas Weigl, co-owner of Polynova AG together with founder Renato R. Huebscher.

WEIDMANN GmbH in Süßen is known worldwide as a specialist for the finishing of fiber and down-proof articles and woven industrial fabrics. Customers particularly appreciate the company's reliability and flexibility with regard to their individu-al requirements, and consistently high quality of its products. The Swabian textile manufacturer finishes premium fabrics, mainly for the bedding industry, using the latest technology and in an environmentally conscious manner.

The complex production and finishing processes for high-quality fabrics require a reliable and efficient machine technology. With this in mind, WEIDMANN has always relied on the proven stenter technolo-gy from BRÜCKNER. For many decades, the German textile machinery manufacturer has been a world leader in the con-struction of production lines for the finishing of classical textiles, woven industrial  fabrics, nonwovens, glass fabrics and floor coverings. In addition to stenters, the company's production program also in-cludes coating lines, relaxation dryers, sanfor lines, continuous dyeing lines as well as ovens for the bonding of nonwovens and other special lines. All machines are produced 100% in-house in Germany.

Both companies continuously invest in new and innovative technology in order to be successful and competitive today and in the future. Only Recently, a completely newly developed BRÜCKNER stenter was installed in the ultra-modern plant at WEIDMANN. During the intensive project engineering phase it soon became clear which features are of special importance for their daily production requirements:

• uniform moisture distribution in the machine entry and during pick-up of the specialized   chemicals in the finishing padder before the thermoprocess
• weft-straight fabric flow with minimized residual distortion
• very good accessibility for maintenance and daily cleaning
• sensor technology and automation of setting parameters for energy optimization
• heat-recovery with hot water generation for the dye house
• the line must be fully Industry 4.0 capable

Textechno reports launch of a new standard for the drapability and deformability of fabrics and non-wovens: ISO 21765

World market leader for precision testing equipment Textechno and their partner SAERTEX, global market leader in non-crimp fabrics (NCF) are proud to announce that the newly developed international standard ISO 21765:2020 to quantify material behaviour in terms of drapability and deformability was recently published by ISO.

The new standard ISO 21765 allows the world-wide comparable measurement of all relevant parameters regarding the deformability and drapability of all kinds of fabrics, including woven fabrics and NCFs as well as knitted fabrics and non-wovens on Textechno´s precision testing equipment DRAPETEST. This can be very useful in the carbon fibre recycling since one of the most efficient applications of recycled carbon fibres will be in non-wovens.

This is the first testing instrument world-wide to quantify not only the force which is required for deforming a fabric, but also the various defects such as gaps, undulation, or wrinkles which can arise due to the deformation.

In the frame of a publicly funded project which started in 2011, Textechno developed the award-winning automatic drapability tester DRAPETEST along with other partners, amongst them SAERTEX.  

Dietmar Möcke, CTO at SAERTEX says: „With ISO 21765, we finally have a standardized testing method with world-wide validity. It allows us to provide our customers with comparable and reproducible measurement values regarding the draping characteristics of our products.”

Ulrich Mörschel, Managing Director of Textechno adds: “We are grateful for the support from all around the world allowing us to establish the new ISO standard. The standard finally fills a gap in the testing methods for fabrics both in the fields of textiles and composites.”

Dr. Michael Effing, Managing Director of AMAC GmbH and Senior Advisor to Textechno: “A lot of research is dedicated to new production technologies of composites, non-crimp fabrics and classical fabrics for thermosets have with 33 % a significant market share in the production of all composite materials. The application of the new standard for non-wovens from recycled carbon fibres comes perfectly on time for this market sector which will gain more and more importance within the next years.

Not only since 2021 has sustainability been a topic high on society’s agenda. And yet the importance of sustainability for consumers and companies has once again increased sharply as a result of the Corona pandemic, as numerous studies confirm. Then why is it often so difficult to implement this conviction in everyday life? One of the biggest obstacles to sustainable consumer behaviour is the lack of availability of alternatives.

In addition to changing consumer demands, the EU Commission's recent decision on the single-use plastics directive is also prompting many nonwovens manufacturers to look at alternative solutions. Kelheim Fibres is exhibiting at this year's INDEX in Geneva and online with bio-based fibers that offer an alternative to synthetic materials in a wide range of applications. The Bavarians have decades of experience in the nonwovens and hygiene sectors and work on individual customer-specific innovations.

"We want to make it easy for consumers to choose an environmentally friendly option. That’s the case when bio-based solutions offer the same performance as synthetic products," said Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres." Our fibre technology allows us to create just that: unlike natural fibres, which are available already in fibre form and can only be treated on the surface, we can engineer the properties of our fibres they need for specific applications by specifically intervening in the production process. That way we combine nature - our fibres are made of wood pulp - with performance."

Kelheim's special fibres are made of wood pulp from sustainably managed sources, are produced in Kelheim in an environmentally friendly way and are fully biodegradable at the end of their product life. Kelheim Fibres is the first viscose fibre manufacturer in the world with an EMAS validated Environmental Management System and was awarded a dark green/light green shirt in the most recent Canopy HotButton-Ranking.

• FILO, 29th-30th September 2021, booth C5

Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei has been invited to showcase at Filo fair, the international exhibition of orthogonal weaving yarns for clothing and furnishings, circular knitwear and technical textiles, in a new special area, a dedicated open space reserved to sustainable fibers that will allow visitors to discover all their production cycle and performances, in full relax and transparency.

Bemberg™, an exceptional fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, will brings to Filo its history, experience, know-how and market partnerships to prove its versatility and design-driven look and touch Last but not least we are talking about a true circular economy-oriented ingredient, with certified sustainable performance: Bemberg™ is biodegradable and compostable material as verified by the INNOVHUB 3rd party test and it has GRS (Global Reycled Standard) certification from Textile Exchange proving recycling authenticity.

Bemberg™ application history starts with high-quality suit lining, but today we can find it in many other applications such as fashion couture, outerwear, innerwear, bedding, and sportswear where its amazing unique touch and quality is offering a distinctive performance.

And to prove all of this, Bemberg™ will be at Filo showing some selected fabric innovation, and three responsible-driven designers representing different and complementary part of contemporary consumer wardrobe: ZEROBARRACENTO, Maurizio Miri and WAXEWUL - who have all chosen Bemberg™ fiber to create special collections. Three different ways to see and represent how sustainability and style – even if completely different ones – together can be highly successful, performing and interesting to the new consumer.

ZEROBARRACENTO, a gender-neutral emerging outerwear brand focusing on zero-waste product development, selects Bemberg™ for two fundamental reasons: firstly, from a stylistic point of view for its extreme versatility: in the various collections we have adopted it to create Kimonos, padded jackets, wrap dresses as well as for the interiors of our garments, which are intended to be soft embraces for total physical and mental comfort. The second but no less important reason is that this fibre has circular values in line with their zero-waste commitment.

The concept of the brand "Maurizio Miri" has a strong personality and a clear intent: to create a product that stimulates the wearer towards beauty. A garment should not simply be worn, but it has also to create a perfect symbiosis with the person wearing it and generate an exchange of positive energies. The purpose is to make the individual feel in perfect harmony with their own image. With this aim in mind, the designer selects extremely precious Bemberg™ linings for their sophisticated tailor jackets. 

Finally, WAXEWUL, a brand of sartorial clothing and artisan accessories with an urban-afro soul that has environmental and social sustainability as its basic ethics. WAXEWUL will bring to Filo its brand-new product, the J_Hood Bag: a doubleface jacket with a comfortably removable hood that can be transformed into a finely hidden doubleface bag. An exclusive, innovative and sustainable garment with minimal impact on the environment made of BemBAZIN™ - a new generation of bazin created, patented and produced by Brunello which is composed by the high-tech and responsible fibers of Bemberg™ - on one side and of wax on the other, traceable and certified, guaranteeing a reduction in waste (two jackets in one) and a long-life cycle.