From the Sector

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts has secured a number of major orders from textile manufacturers in Central and South America recently, and was pleased to welcome a high number of visitors from the region to its stand at ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14.

Among new orders are those for three Montex stenters delivered to the AustralTex Group in Argentina and a further Montex range to denim manufacturer CIT in Brazil. Guatemala’s Global Textiles placed an order for its second Montex stenter, while Mexico’s Zentrix ordered its third and Avante, also in Mexico, has opted for its sixth.

Elsewhere, orders have also been placed for the delivery of three new Montex stenters to one of Pakistan’s major corporations, as well as a new Thermex dyeing range to nonwovens manaufacturer Orsa in Italy. Further orders – both for new machines and retrofit modules – are now anticipated following ITMA 2023, which attracted over 111,000 visitors to Milan.

“Visitor footfall at ITMA 2023 was well beyond the company’s expectations, and we were especially pleased at the constant number of visitors from South American companies, as well as from Asia and Europe,” said Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek. “We were able to provide them with detailed information about our portfolio of machines and technologies digitally and fielded an unprecedented number of serious enquiries, many of which promise to turn into new business.”

Monforts Montex stenters for processes such as drying, stretching, heat-setting and coating, she added, are already the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings. Other key technologies in the Monforts portfolio include relaxation dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and Monfortex compressive shrinking ranges.

Montex®Coat
“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” Croonenbroek said.

The Montex®Coat can serve a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system. It provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

Many refinements have been made to the Montex®Coat in the past few years, resulting in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. A number of advanced new improvements were introduced in Milan, including automatic edge limiters for immediately adapting to new coating widths and a new and simplified hand-held control device. These save considerable time in setting up the machine and ensuring consistent production.

The Montex®Coat unit displayed in Milan was sold to Vietnamese company Thai Tuan during the show.

RadiciGroup took part in the Phygital Sustainability Expo, this year in its fourth edition, which was held in Rome on 5 and 6 July. This event is entirely dedicated to the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation. The show is an important platform for discussion on sustainable transition issues, involving Italian and international brands, fashion tech start-ups, representatives from the institutional, business and educational fields, and consumers.

RadiciGroup's participation in the event was further evidence of the Group's commitment to making a contribution to sustainability and circularity in the fashion and textile industry, in collaboration with all the other players in the supply chain. During the narrated fashion show, held on the evening of Wednesday, 5 July, in the evocative archaeological complex of the Imperial Forum Museum, RadiciGroup presented a maxi dress made of Biofeel® eleven, a yarn of completely natural origin featuring high technical, aesthetic and environmental performance. This yarn is produced starting from a small bean cultivated in India on semi-arid land and thus does not compete with human food production. These beans yield a special oil ideal for obtaining biopolymers, such as the one produced by Arkema and spun into yarn at RadiciGroup in Italy.

The dress is not only made from a low environmental impact raw material, but is also an example of ecodesign: the garment was realized on a Shima Seiki WholeGarment knitting machine, where the entire item was knit directly from spools of Biofeel® eleven yarn, bypassing the traditional stages of weaving and tailoring. It is a zero-waste process, as only the quantity of yarn strictly needed for the garment is used.

Biofeel® eleven yarn endows the dress with unique characteristics, including low moisture absorption, greater lightness and high resistance and durability. Besides being 100% biobased, the yarn is also 100% recyclable because it is made of a mono-material polymer, which facilitates its end-of-life recycling and processing into new materials suitable for any application requiring high performance.

Mimaki Europe, a provider of industrial inkjet printers, cutting plotters, and 3D printers, has announced the introduction of two technologies at ITMA 2023: a Textile Pigment Transfer Printing System and the Neo-Chromato Process. These innovations are showcased for the first time, and ahead of commercial availability, at the exhibition in Milan, Italy, solidifying Mimaki's commitment to sustainable and environmentally friendly solutions in the textile printing industry.

Mimaki’s New Textile Pigment Transfer Printing System
The transfer printing method is more sustainable than both analogue and digital textile dye printing methods with zero water consumption and substantially lower CO₂ emissions. The system comprises three essential elements: the Textile Pigment Ink, the Transfer System and the Textile Pigment Transfer paper, Texcol®.

Texcol® is a transfer paper pioneered by Dutch paper manufacturer, Coldenhove that allows for transferring a digital print using an environmentally friendly 3-step transfer process to create a vibrant application on a wide range of materials, including natural fibres. The design is initially printed onto the paper using a customised TS330-1600 - Mimaki’s high-volume, high-quality dye sublimation printer - and Mimaki’s new pigment inks developed for the process. The module that adapts the TS330-1600 will be available as an option for existing and new Mimaki customers in Q3 2023 but is being previewed on the Mimaki stand at ITMA.

Mimaki’s new Textile Pigment Ink is undergoing bluesign certification before commercial availability. bluesign is a renowned certification programme that ensures the highest levels of safety, environmental friendliness, and sustainability within the textile and apparel industry.

As the final stage, the Texcol® paper undergoes a one-step waterless process, through an entry-level calendar machine onto the textile of choice.

Cyclical textile technology
Mimaki is also debuting its new, unique Neo-Chromato Process, which revolutionises the reuse of coloured polyester textiles.

By decolourising polyester textiles that have been dyed using dye sublimation technologies, this innovative process allows materials to be re-printed or dyed immediately, contributing to a smaller circular economy. There is no limit to how many times reused polyester can be treated with the Neo-Chromato Process and the process itself minimises water usage and pollution by enabling the disposal of the absorbent paper and decolouring solvents used in the process as burnable waste.

HeiQ will display its biobased textile solutions for allergen reduction, odor control, and dynamic cooling at ITMA Milano 2023. The event will take place from the 8th to the 14th of June at Fiera Milano in Italy, where HeiQ will also showcase HeiQ AeoniQ™, its cellulosic fiber and flagship advancement in biobased textile technologies.

The focal point of the HeiQ exhibition at ITMA Milano 2023 will be the company’s biobased textile technologies. These innovations address one of the major challenges faced by the textile industry, making fabrics more functional while contributing to a sustainable future.

The ready-to-use HeiQ technologies on display are HeiQ Allergen* Tech, providing synbiotic protection in home textiles and unmatched defense against inanimate allergens, HeiQ Cool, the dual-action cooling that keeps one cool and comfortable, even in the most demanding conditions, HeiQ Mint, the botanical odor control that provides plant-based and effective odor management, and HeiQ Fresh, for sustainable odor control.

Additionally, HeiQ will present a glimpse into the future with HeiQ’s groundbreaking carbon-positive continuous filament yarn, HeiQ AeoniQ™, that turned from an idea into a breakthrough piece of garment in just 15 months.

This cellulosic fiber has the objective to render polyester and nylon obsolete until 2030 and has attracted the support and active engagement of global partners who saw HeiQ AeoniQ™ as the solution to change the future of the textile industry.

As a global provider of sustainable woodfibre products, Sappi will be showcasing its solutions for the garment industry under the theme “Fashion meets Forest” at ITMA 2023 – with sublimation papers and its dissolving wood pulp, used for the production of garment fibres under the “Verve” brand name.

How can the woodfibre industry support a more sustainable garments market? Sappi is eager to answer this question at the ITMA and has created a “knowledge trail” for visitors to explore under the motto “Fashion meets Forest”. Visitors to the stand can follow the journey from wood via cellulose and fibre to the finished yarn and the printed garment.

Sublimation papers: Expanded production capacity in Carmignano
Sappi’s Transjet sublimation papers stand for fast, uniform ink transfer and minimal ink consumption. As a premium supplier, Sappi is constantly striving to meet its customers’ needs. So, at this year’s ITMA, various sublimation papers with optimised qualitative properties will be on show.

Sappi maintains the high quality of its coated Transjet and uncoated Basejet sublimation papers by regularly investing in new, state-of-the-art technologies. At the end of April, a new warehouse has been inaugurated at the Carmignano mill in Italy. In the next month’s, Sappi will further invest in two new converting machines with a width of 1.9 meters and 3.2 meters as well as in a fully automated packaging line. All the investments will support the company’s vision of having a complete in-house solution for the sublimation industry, have a positive impact on CO2 emission, satisfy the increased demand of their customers as well as further improve lead times.
 
“Verve” dissolving wood pulp for high-quality textiles
Sappi will also be showcasing its dissolving pulp (DP) brand “Verve”. DP provides the feedstock raw material toward producing rayon fibres such as Lyocell and viscose and further into yarns and fabrics. Textiles produced from wood based cellulosic fibres are noted for their breathability, colour fastness, softness, drape, absorbency and biodegradability. In addition to the garment industry, dissolving pulp is also used in various household and pharmaceutical products.

After participating in industry trials, Renewcell and TextileGenesis™ have the intention to establish an agreement for full pulp-to-retail traceability for Renewcell’s CIRCULOSE® recycled raw material across the entire textile supply chain, announcing it at Challenge the Fabric (Milan, Italy).

Renewcell uses a patented process to breakdown and recycle cotton and other cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out jeans and production scraps, to create CIRCULOSE®, a biodegradable raw material that can be used to create viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and other man-made cellulosic fibers. These regenerated fibers are then spun into yarns, woven or knitted into fabrics before being cut and sewn into new high-quality textile products.
 
With TextileGenesis™, Renewcell will be able to share real-time digital traceability with its customers and supply chain partners.

• The platform uses digital tokens to ensure a secure chain of custody for all supply chain processes from raw materials to retail.
• The company’s “fiber-forwards” traceability captures real-time shipments; its Fibercoins™ digital tokens verify point of origin and eliminate “double counting” of sustainable materials.
• Its AI (augmented intelligence) engine verifies transactions between supply chain partners.  

 
Furthermore, TextileGenesis™ is already partnering with fiber producers including Lenzing AG, Eastman, and Birla Cellulose.

Renewcell is the recepient of the Fast Company 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards for the Sustainability/Energy category with the development of recycling unused textiles into pulp, branded as CIRCULOSE®, used for man-made cellulosic fiber production of viscose, modal, lyocell, acetate and other fibers. Additionally Renewcell is recognized as a finalist in the Europe, the Middle East, and Africa category, as well as a finalist in the climate category for the 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards.

World Changing Ideas Awards honor sustainable designs, innovative products, bold social initiatives, and other creative projects that are changing the way we work, live, and interact with the world.

This year’s World Changing Ideas Awards showcase 45 winners, 216 finalists, and more than 300 honorable mentions—with health, climate, energy, and AI among the most popular categories. A panel of Fast Company editors and reporters selected winners and finalists from a pool of more than 2,200 entries across urban design, education, nature, politics, technology, corporate social responsibility, and more. Several new categories were added this year including rapid response, crypto and blockchain, agriculture, and workplace. The 2023 awards feature entries from across the globe, from Italy to Singapore to New Zealand. Fast Company’s Spring 2023 issue (on newsstands May 9, 2023) will showcase some of the world’s most inventive entrepreneurs and forward-thinking companies that are actively tackling global challenges.

After the recent acquisition of Texo S.R.L. which has strengthened the company's presence in the luxury segment, C&S takes a further step forward in the creation of a widespread garment manufacturing hub in the heart of Italy. C&S takes ownership of the Seville brand together with the Bianchetti family, who remain co-owners covering mainly style research and development functions. The Italian style, which amounts to an aesthetic identity and a guarantee of artisan quality, a cultural orientation toward manufacturing excellence and product design, finally to an approach to the market characterized by availability, openness and interaction with the customer.

This acquisition strengthens C&S direct contact with retail, going alongside HAIKURE, PDF and other brands still being finalized, and will be able to generate a profitable exchange with the Style Services Luxe and Style Services Denim divisions, through which C&S stands out as an exceptional partner for all the brands that choose to rely on its experience in the world of jeans, luxury and formalwear.

High quality and Made in Italy trousers, but there is more, the brand Siviglia from the Marche region brings to C&S a wealth of tailoring skills and product construction. Born in Marotta (PU) in 2006 from the Bianchetti family, Siviglia is a reality that has experienced rapid commercial success since its entry into the market thanks to the intuition of the iconic trousers with fabric inserts at mid-thigh inspired by the Spanish horsemen, hence the name that recalls the Andalusian capital.

The success of Siviglia is built on coats, trousers and jeans characterized by fit and linear style, thanks to the continuous research on the product, on the fabrics and on the emerging trends, in a personal reinterpretation of the codes of elegance. The corporate style permeates not only the choice of materials and accessories, but is distinguished by the packaging components and the use of visual and communicative languages in line with the brand identity. By interpreting the contemporary and foreseeing the future needs of a constantly evolving market, Siviglia aims to provide its customers with the best in the broadest sense, including among its qualitative goals the reduction of the environmental impact of productions and materials used.

• Sales of CHF 1 510.9 million,
• Order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022; order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million as of December 31, 2022
• EBIT margin of 2.1%
• Implementation of action plan to increase profitability ongoing
• Dividend of CHF 1.50 per share proposed

With record sales of CHF 1 510.9 million, Rieter achieved an increase of 56% compared with the previous year (2021: CHF 969.2 million). In the second half of 2022, especially in the fourth quarter, the measures introduced to address material bottlenecks had a positive impact. Consequently, sales increased to CHF 890.3 million compared with the first six months (first half-year 2022: CHF 620.6 million).

Order intake was CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022 (2021: CHF 2 225.7 million) and thus remained at a high level thanks to the company’s technological lead and broad international presence. The market situation, especially in the second half of 2022, was characterized by investment restraint and below-average capacity utilization at spinning mills due to geopolitical uncertainties, rising financing costs, and consumer reticence in important markets.
The company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million at the end of 2022, which thus extends into 2023 and 2024.

The profit at the EBIT level in the 2022 financial year was CHF 32.2 million (2021: CHF 47.6 million). The result was strongly influenced by substantial cost increases, which could only be offset in part through price increases or other remedial measures. In addition, to compensate for material shortages, expenses were incurred in connection with the development of alternative solutions, and in relation to the acquired businesses.

Completion of the Acquisition
Rieter consolidated the acquired automatic winding machine business with effect from April 1, 2022. This acquisition completes Rieter’s system offering in the largest market segment of ring and compact spinning, thus significantly strengthening the company’s market position.

Action Plan to Increase Profitability
Implementation of the action plan to increase profitability is ongoing. With regard to the margins for the order backlog, which remains high, the already implemented price increases in combination with a positive trend in costs, particularly in logistics, are having a favorable impact. In addition, progress was made in eliminating material bottlenecks and reducing expenses for the three acquired businesses.

Dividend
The Board of Directors proposes to the shareholders the distribution of a dividend of CHF 1.50 per share for 2022. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 56%.

Outlook
For the coming months, Rieter expects below-average demand for new equipment at first, with a revival expected in the second half of 2023 after ITMA, the leading trade fair in Milan (Italy). Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will recover during 2023.
For the 2023 financial year, due to the high order backlog, Rieter anticipates sales in the order of magnitude of the previous year.
The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in connection with the ongoing geopolitical uncertainties, rising financing costs, continuing bottlenecks in the supply chains, and possible, currently unforeseeable consequences of the earthquake in Türkiye in February 2023. Despite the price increases already implemented, further global cost increases continue to pose a risk to the growth of profitability. Rieter will specify the outlook in the 2023 semi-annual report.

• Style3D is sole shareholder of Assyst
• Integration of both product lines from 3D design to production
• Assyst remains independent within Style3D

Assyst GmbH is as of now part of Style3D. The German fashion technology market leader and the leading 3D software company are joining forces. For Assyst customers and partners nothing will change.
 
Die Assyst GmbH betreibt ihre Geschäfte weiterhin eigenständig, entwickelt alle ihre Produkte weiter und strebt mit Style3D eine gemeinsame, durchgängige Produktwelt an. Der erste gemeinsame Auftritt des Assyst-Style3D-Teams findet bereits auf der Assyst Experience im Rahmen der Munich Fabric Start (24.-26. Januar 2023) statt.

Assyst will continue to operate its business independently and to develop, sell, and service all its existing products. Style3D and Assyst will start to integrate their products into a universal, seamless product world. The Assyst-Style3D team will make its first joint appearance already at the end of January at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start (24-26 January 2023).

Both companies are deeply rooted in apparel development and production: Style3D in Asia and Assyst in EMEA. Together, they are planning to create a global product offering for producers and brands that covers the entire apparel value chain from development to production and the various sales touchpoints.

Starting point will be the integration of the flagship products of both companies – Style3D and Assyst.CAD. Style3D is currently the most advanced 3D fashion design software with a high growth rate globally. While Assyst is market leader with its 2D CAD technology in Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland and offers a seamless software portfolio from 2D and 3D CAD to production (Automarker) and to all sales touchpoints.

Major driver of the merger is the companies’ complimentary technology offering and the vision to create a seamless digital process from providing digital fabric and accessories up to the realization of products.

The merger also strengthens Assyst's competitive position in the 3D design sector. Style3D, in turn, will benefit from Assyst's expertise in the development, CAD and digital simulation of apparel products and the access to the international market.

Looking ahead to the future, both parties will offer 2D-based & 3D-based one-stop solutions for business clients leveraging on their global tech base and complementary serviceable resource dominance. On January 24-26, the Assyst-Style3D team will meet clients and present its products at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start.