From the Sector

ISKO is taking part in the Kingpins Show in New York City. At the event taking place on 17 and 18 July at Pier 36, Basketball City, ISKO presents a selection from its diverse collections.

Attendees have the opportunity to explore a selection from ISKO’s main collection, alongside some of the company’s most innovative technologies and products. Each piece exemplifies ISKO’s commitment to blending sophisticated designs with sustainable practices.

The Main Collection is organized into five main macro groups:

• Inflexible: a range of rigid fabrics for contemporary needs, true to denim’s original heritage.
• Motion: combining comfort and an authentic look for good old rigid denim with freedom of movement.
• Extended: traditional denim aesthetic and its ultimate stretch expression. Elegance, treatments, and 4-way-stretch technologies.
• Elite: fabrics families where softness, shine, and silky feel reach their full potential.
• Momentum: unique finishes, intricate constructions, colored coatings, and special denim features.

Other highlights are:

• Casual Line: the premium experience showcasing a versatile and innovative woven fabric collection made with FSC® certified viscose and certified postconsumer recycled polyester.
• ISKO™ Luxury by PG: curated by Paolo Gnutti, this collection merges classic tastes with contemporary visions.

Finally, as ISKO’s FW 25-26 collection features RE&UP fibers, visitors can learn more about the circulartech company that recycles cotton, polyester and polycotton textile waste and transforms it into high-quality Next-Gen fibers, becoming the go-to alternative to virgin options.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

Stratasys Ltd., a company in polymer 3D printing solutions, announced their financial results for the first quarter 2024.

First Quarter 2024 Financial Results Compared to First Quarter 2023:

• Revenue of $144.1 million compared to $149.4 million.
• GAAP gross margin of 44.4%, compared to 43.8%.
• Non-GAAP gross margin of 48.6%, compared to 47.3%.
• GAAP operating loss of $24.5 million, compared to an operating loss of $16.8 million.
• Non-GAAP operating loss of $1.2 million, compared to non-GAAP operating income of $1.5 million.
• GAAP net loss of $26.0 million, or $0.37 per diluted share, compared to a net loss of $22.2 million, or $0.33 per diluted share.
• Non-GAAP net loss of $1.7 million, or $0.02 per diluted share, compared to non-GAAP net income of $1.1 million, or $0.02 per diluted share.
• Adjusted EBITDA of $4.1 million, compared to $7.0 million.
• Cash generated by operating activities of $7.3 million, compared to cash used by operating activities of $17.9 million in the year-ago quarter.

2024 Financial Outlook:
Based on current market conditions and assuming that the impacts of global inflationary pressures, relatively high interest rates and supply chain costs do not impede economic activity further, the Company is reiterating its outlook for 2024 as follows:

• Full-year revenue of $630 million to $645 million.
• Compare to 2023 revenue of approximately $616 million excluding divestments and annualizing Covestro.
• Full-year non-GAAP gross margins of 49.0% to 49.5%, improving sequentially throughout the year.
• Full-year operating expenses in the range of $292 million to $297 million.
• Full-year non-GAAP operating margins in a range of 2.5% to 3.5%.
• GAAP net loss of $88 million to $72 million, or ($1.24) to ($1.01) per diluted share.
• Includes one-time extraordinary costs associated with Stratasys’ strategic alternatives process.
• Non-GAAP net income of $9 million to $14 million, or $0.12 to $0.19 per diluted share.
• Adjusted EBITDA of $40 million to $45 million.
• Capital expenditures of $20 million to $25 million.
• Positive cash flow from operating activities.

Non-GAAP earnings guidance excludes $29 million to $31 million of share-based compensation expense, $26 million to $28 million of projected amortization of intangible assets, and reorganization and other expenses of $29 million to $35 million. Non-GAAP guidance includes tax adjustments of $2 million to $3 million on the above non-GAAP items.

Major developments:

• Currency-neutral sales up 8% driven by growth in all regions except North America
• Double-digit DTC growth reflects strong adidas sell-through
• Gross margin improves 6.4pp to 51.2%, reflecting healthier inventory levels, reduced discounting, lower sourcing costs and a more favorable business mix
• Operating profit of € 336 million compared to € 60 million in the prior-year period
• Inventories down more than € 1.2 billion versus the prior year to € 4.4 billion
• Top- and bottom-line guidance upgraded on April 16 due to successful start to the year

Full-year outlook
adidas expects revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024
On April 16, adidas upgraded its full-year financial guidance as a result of the better-than-expected performance in the first quarter. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid-single-digit rate). Within this guidance, it is assumed that the remaining Yeezy inventory will be sold on average at cost, resulting in sales of around € 200 million throughout the remainder of the year. This corresponds to a projected total amount of Yeezy-related sales of around € 350 million in FY 2024 (previously: around € 250 million), of which around € 150 million were generated in the first quarter. For its underlying business, adidas remains focused on scaling its successful franchises, introducing new ones, and leveraging its significantly better, broader, and deeper product range. Improved retailer relationships, more impactful marketing initiatives, and the company’s activities around major sports events are also expected to contribute to sales increases throughout 2024.

Outlook impacted by significant currency headwinds
Unfavorable currency effects are projected to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability in 2024. They are expected to continue to adversely impact both reported revenues and the gross margin development in the remainder of the year.

Operating profit of around € 700 million projected
Following the better-than-expected performance in the first quarter, the company also increased its full-year profit guidance on April 16. The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 700 million (previously: to reach a level of around € 500 million). The improved bottom-line guidance includes a contribution of around € 50 million from Yeezy (previously: no Yeezy contribution) related to the drop in Q1. The sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory is assumed to result in no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

• Sales of CHF 1 418.6 million in the 2023 financial year
• Order intake of CHF 541.8 million in the 2023 financial year; order backlog of around CHF 650 million as of December 31, 2023
• EBIT margin of 7.2%
• “Next Level” performance program on track
• Proposed dividend of CHF 3.00 per share
• Outlook 2024 with sales of around CHF 1 billion

The Rieter Group closed the 2023 financial year with slightly lower sales of CHF 1 418.6 million (2022: CHF 1 510.9 million), down 6% on the previous year. In line with expectations, the order intake of CHF 541.8 million was considerably below the prior year period (2022: CHF 1 157.3 million). In a challenging business environment, Rieter generated an EBIT margin of 7.2%. Implementation of the “Next Level” performance program to increase profitability is proceeding according to plan.

Outlook 2024
Markets remain under pressure from the economic slowdown, high inflation rates and noticeably dampened consumer sentiment. Customers are reluctant to place orders due to financing challenges. The first signs of a recovery in the 2024 financial year have emerged in the key markets of China and India. Rieter expects demand to increase in the coming months.
For the full year 2024, Rieter anticipates sales in the region of CHF 1 billion and a positive EBIT margin of up to 4%.

Kelheim Fibres is showcasing recent research findings at this year's Cellulose Fibres Conference (13rd-14th of March). The development, led by Dr. Ingo Bernt, Project Leader of Fibre & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres, and Dr. Thomas Harter from Graz University of Technology, provides insights into the correlation between the geometry of viscose fibres and the liquid absorption of tampons.

Kelheim Fibres has long been engaged in the functionalization of viscose fibres, including the specific adaptation of fibre cross-sections. The trilobal Galaxy® serves as an example. The current study underscores the properties of the fibre, primarily rooted in its geometry. This involves taking a closer look at the underlying mechanisms. It has been confirmed that, in contrast to the traditionally round viscose fibres and despite similar chemical compositions and mechanical properties, Galaxy® enables significantly better liquid absorption.

While the higher specific surface area of trilobal fibres already promotes improved liquid absorption, this is not the main factor accounting for the difference in absorption. Instead, the geometric shape of the fibres proves to be crucial. Trilobal fibres create and maintain a more voluminous, extensive network within the absorbent body, providing a larger volume for liquid absorption.

Dr. Ingo Bernt emphasizes, "The results of our study are not limited to tampons—any application requiring increased absorbency can benefit from the properties of our Galaxy® fibres."

The lecture "Geometry Matters: Unveiling Tampon Absorption Mechanisms" by Dr. Ingo Bernt und Dr. Thomas Harter takes place on the 14th of March at 2:50pm.

Highlights Q4 2023 (compared with Q4 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 4% on higher volumes and pricing (reported revenue -3%)
• Operating income improved to €214 million (2022: €103 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €221 million (2022: €126 million); ROS at 8.7% (2022: 4.8%); €244 million before €23 million negative impact from hyperinflation accounting
• Net cash from operating activities positive €574 million (2022: €291 million)

Highlights full-year 2023 (compared with full-year 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 5% driven by pricing (reported revenue -2%)
• Operating income improved to €1,029 million (2022: €708 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €1,074 million (2022: €789 million), despite €77 million adverse
• currency effects from translation; ROS at 10.1% (2022: 7.3%)
• Adjusted EBITDA at €1,429 million (2022: €1,157 million), despite €92 million adverse currency
• effects from translation
• Net cash from operating activities positive €1,126 million (2022: €263 million)
• Net debt to EBITDA leverage ratio improved to 2.7 (2022: 3.8)
• Final dividend proposed of €1.54 per share (2022: €1.54)

Outlook mid-term
For the mid-term, AkzoNobel aims to expand profitability to deliver an adjusted EBITDA margin of above 16% and a return on investment between 16% and 19%, underpinned by organic growth and industrial excellence. The company aims to lower its leverage to around 2 times in the mid-term, while remaining committed to retaining a strong investment grade credit rating.

“From Earth to Earth”: The new plan defines goals and concrete actions in Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) areas to foster value creation for all stakeholders and put new sustainability regulatory requirements at the centre of attention.

A project, designed to enhance RadiciGroup's transparency and commitment to develop a responsible business along its entire value chain from an economic, social and environmental perspective and focus on the ever more widespread and stringent sustainability regulatory requirements. These are the features and goals of the Sustainability Plan presented by the Group and called "From Earth to Earth", precisely to emphasize the intent to focus on the Earth and future generations.

In the context of a complex and constantly changing scenario, the Group has therefore decided to capitalize on the goals achieved and look beyond them with a plan defining the medium-term targets and the actions to be taken to fulfil them and covering all areas considered to be "material”, i.e., relevant from the point of view of ESG and financial risks, opportunities and impacts. Indeed, the ultimate goal of "From Earth to Earth" is to support business continuity and the growth of the company and all its stakeholders.

The project was the result of a multi-year collaboration with Deloitte, which contributed an external and objective viewpoint on the definition of the material targets and themes. However, it was not an armchair exercise, but the result of an extensive listening process involving internal and external stakeholders, all of whom were sustainability experts who helped define a shortlist of strategic themes for both the Group and its main stakeholders. These issues were then analysed in detail using working tables on the different themes to identify the objectives in Environmental, Social and Governance areas and the related concrete actions needed to achieve them, in line with the European decarbonization and energy transition policies and the
United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, a global blueprint for sustainable growth.

In particular, RadiciGroup’s environmental goals include: a 20% increase and differentiation in renewable source electricity consumption, an 80% reduction in total direct greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 compared to 2011, attention to water consumption to limit the impact on local communities and biodiversity, the extension of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology to measure the environmental impact of 70% of the products (in terms of weight) manufactured by the entire Group, collaboration among the various actors in the supply chain from an ecodesign perspective and the search for increasingly more sustainable and circular packaging solutions.

ALLIED Feather + Down, global leaders in high performance, ethically sourced down, and MN Inter-Fashion, manufacturers of high performance luxury outerwear, announced that the ALLIED Feather + Down outerwear collection will be available to the European market.  

Originally released only in Japan, the exclusive collection will be available to select European boutique retailers for the fall 2024 season. Limited to a few hundred pieces, this line will showcase the breadth of ALLIED’s down offering, from their industry-leading ExpeDRY down insulation to their exceedingly high performance 1000 fill power down. It will also include MN Inter-Fashion’s experience delivering quality design and craftsmanship to some of the best known fashion houses in the world.

Designed, cut, and sewn by MN Inter-Fashion in Japan using materials from ALLIED and Pertex, the jackets shall represent a collision between cutting edge fashion aesthetics and materials normally reserved for highly technical outerwear. The result is a unique garment with a sophisticated urban look blended with performance that rivals the most technical outdoor apparel available. 

Suedwolle Group introduces ACTIVEYARN®, the company’s first seasonless corporate collection: ACTIVEYARN® is composed of a selection of weaving, flat and circular knitting, hosiery and technical yarns, with advanced spinning technologies, wool blends and other natural and traceable fibres. It is a seasonless collection of yarns suitable for different occasions, to support everyone’s attitude and style.

This idea is expressed by the concept of “Get active”, which is not just about using Suedwolle Group’s products in sports applications, but about a new mindset, a changing perspective. By taking a fresh look at the company’s wide offer, ACTIVEYARN® provides new opportunities and inspiration to explore Suedwolle Group’s full potential in terms of technology, sustainability and innovations. It considers with a new point of view on the collections for knitting, weaving and technical uses, creating new connections among them and offering a mosaic of new possibilities and versatile combinations.

This theme of the collection and the new mindset may be represented in the concept of a “kaleidoscope”, symbol of the active change inspiring Suedwolle Group’s creativity.

The yarns in the ACTIVEYARN® collection embody the company’s six strategic pillars of innovation – sustainability, circularity, traceability, design, performance and technology – drivers of the entire process of design and production.

Jasmin GOTS Nm 2/48 (100% wool 19,5 μ X-CARE) is a natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn with GOTS certification that meets the company’s demand for sustainability. X-CARE, the innovative treatment by Suedwolle Group, uses eco-friendly and chlorine-free substances that make wool environmentally friendly and suitable for easy-care quality.

Tirano Betaspun® RWS FSC (41,5% wool 17,2 μ TEC RWS certified, 41,5% LENZING™Lyocell 1,4 dtex 17% polyamide filament 22 dtex GRS certified) is a fully traceable high performance yarn, suitable for sportswear and activewear.

OTW® Midway GRS Nm 2/60 (60% wool 23,5 μ X-CARE, 40% polyamide 3,3 dtex GRS certified) comes from the recycling of pre-consumer polyamide and thus is a perfect example of circular production. Suitable for weaving, it combines the added performance that comes from our OTW® patented technology applied to a high durability blend, ideal for active garments.

Wallaby Betaspun® Nm 1/60 (87,5% wool 18,4 μ TEC, 12,5% polyamide filament 22 dtex) is the result of application of latest-generation Betaspun® technology to a natural fibre like wool, allowing production of fine yarns with extra strength and abrasion resistance, ideal for seamless and wrap knitting.

Banda TEC X-Compact Nm 2/47 (100% wool 17,2 μ TEC) is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn benefitting from the innovative X-Compact, permitting production of particularly linear yarns ideal for clean design and fabrics appropriate for today’s fashions.

Caprera GRS Nm 1/60 (45% wool 19,3 μ Non mulesed X-CARE 55% COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester 2,2 dtex GRS certified) increases the performance of the wool-based non mulesed fibre through combination with COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester. This is a material coming from recycling of post-consumer PET bottles, dyeable at low temperatures, that aids evaporation of moisture from the skin to maintain stable body temperature, enhancing the comfort of activewear and urban garments.