From the Sector

KM.ON launches its new Quality Monitoring System (QMS) for the retrofit market at ITM from June 4 to 8 in Istanbul, presenting a solution for quality management on warp knitting machines.
For its performance in defect detection, the QMS uses the advances of our time: a camera system that captures images of the production process, and a specialized artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the images. Particularly in terms of handling, reliability and precision of defect detection, the QMS from KM.ON offers advantages over conventional systems that do not rely on AI analysis.

The QMS is designed for easy setup and can be operated without prior expertise. If a defect causes the machine to come to a standstill, the operator is informed immediately via a user-friendly interface. The immediate warning enables rapid intervention and therefore less downtime and more productivity.

Thanks to its conceptual design, the QMS only stops production when actual defects are detected. Unnecessary interruptions caused by external disruptive factors, such as changing light conditions, are avoided. This precision prevents productivity losses and helps to ensure continuous operation. Costs due to unnecessary machine downtime are avoided.

Unlike conventional camera systems, the QMS detects even the most complex defects and triggers an immediate machine stop. This minimizes material waste. During operation, the AI-controlled system learns from the data to enhance its detection accuracy, thereby reducing the reject rate and costs. The QMS also adapts to evolving production environments to ensure consistently high efficiency.

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and the premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions, unveils the first of three short films which comprise the company’s multifaceted Beyond Begins Today campaign. Featuring Eva Karlsson (CEO, Houdini), Chris Parkes (Natural World Photographer), and Karen Beattie (Director of Product Management, Polartec), the first chapter explores our Planet and the intrinsic value of our natural world.

As a global initiative through which Polartec aims to raise awareness and unity around important universal themes including sustainability, diversity and positive change, Beyond Begins Today leverages static and multimedia content published on multiple touchpoints and channels throughout the year. Chapter 1: the Planet, is the first of three chapters with the second and third chapters dedicated to Product and People respectively.

AkzoNobel has announced the intention to close the manufacturing sites of Groot-Ammers (The Netherlands), Cork (Ireland) and Lusaka (Zambia) and transfer the production to other locations in the region. This intention is the first part of a multi-year industrial efficiency plan to be fully finalized by the end of 2026.
 
The intended site closures align with AkzoNobel's strategic priorities and its commitment to industrial excellence. By focusing on units with scale and higher cost efficiencies, AkzoNobel aims to rationalize, upgrade and optimize its industrial network to improve competitiveness and drive sustainable growth.
 
The related social partners have been informed about the intended closures and next steps.  Finalization will follow after the usual consultation process with employees and local social partners.

Monforts, which is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, will exhibit a Montex stenter chamber with an integrated overhead heat recovery unit at the forthcoming ITM textile machinery exhibition in Istanbul from June 4-8.

The heat recovery unit on display at the stand of Monforts partner Neotek is just one of a range of energy saving options the company is now providing for both new and existing line installations.

Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

coaTTex
At ITM, Monforts will also introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit, dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coaTTex is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts lines, especially Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and coating, including black-out coating.

Central location
“In Turkey we are very strongly supported by our representative Neotek, our solution partner on the ground for service, installation and commissioning, providing specialised and rapid help to all of our customers,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Paeffgen. “ITM is always one of the most important exhibitions for Monforts, for meeting customers not just from Turkey, but across the Middle East and Central Asia, as well as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“Istanbul’s centralised position makes it accessible to the majority of the major textile manufacturing hubs and as we mark our 140th anniversary in 2024, having been founded back in 1884, the ITM show will provide us with the ideal opportunity to celebrate with colleagues and customers all together in one location.”

British technology company Hypetex has been awarded a significant grant from Innovate UK to develop the world’s first technical coloured flax fibre, which will have applications in the sustainable manufacturing of cars, boats and other products that are usually made with carbon fibre.

Called FlaxTex the material is strong, lightweight and 100 per cent biodegradable, having a net positive carbon footprint at point of manufacturing. It can be colourised whilst enhancing its performance properties, with the process adding some important manufacturing attributes compared to standard flax fibre.

As such, FlaxTex’s mechanical properties represent the closest sustainable substitute for robust and lightweight materials like glass fibre and carbon fibre in composite structures.  

The performance of standard flax fibre is often hindered by its high moisture absorption, resulting in reduced structural integrity when used in composite construction. In addition, the natural brown colour of flax has been deemed unappealing for product use.

Flaxtex solves these issues by removing moisture through the colouring process and sealing the fibres, which waterproofs them and enabling their core mechanical properties. Hypetex’s patented nano-pigment technology changes the colour adding an aesthetic quality to the material.  

This colouring process is set to transform industrial design possibilities of Flax natural fibres by enhancing the strength and performance while simultaneously reducing post-processing requirements and total energy usage. This also aligns with Hypetex's commitment to supporting the green transition and helping manufacturers meet government expectations on the path to UK Net Zero targets and the European Green Deal.

Over the course of a 12-month industrial research project, Hypetex will further optimize its resin systems and processes, expanding the use of FlaxTex across various markets.  

FlaxTex has a range of industry uses, including on construction, automotive, sports equipment and furniture products.

An innovative web application now enables independent, flexible, and digital fitting when selecting workwear. By using Sizekick's AI-based technology, which the start-up developed together with Hohenstein, the textile service provider Elis is offering its customers personalised size recommendations based on individual body measurements for the first time.

The web application implemented by Sizekick in collaboration with Elis uses a two-stage process to determine the right size for the web shop’s customers: First, realistic body shapes are suggested and selected using the BodyFinder. Then, sizing is completed with the BodyScanner, a video-based body scan using a smartphone camera. The data is transmitted anonymously, so only the correct clothing size is sent to Elis, and the entire user-friendly sizing process only takes a few minutes.

• Revenue up 5.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 658.4 million
• EBITDA more than doubles year-on-year to EUR 71.4 million
• Free cash flow of EUR 87.3 million (compared with minus EUR 132.3 million in the first quarter of 2023) and thereby positive for the third consecutive quarter
• Performance program shows positive effect on revenue, EDITDA, and free cash flow
• Lenzing confirms EBITDA guidance for 2024

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose for the textile and nonwovens industries, recorded a further improvement in fiber sales volumes in the first quarter of 2024. An expected recovery in markets relevant for Lenzing has to date failed to materialize. Fiber prices remained at a low level. Although the costs of raw materials and energy continued to decrease, they remained higher than in the pre-crisis 2019 year.

Outlook
Even though the IMF has upgraded its growth forecast for 2024 from 3.1 percent to 3.2 percent, a number of risks remain for the global economy: potential geopolitical shocks, persistently higher inflation and key interest rates, as well as market risks emanating from the Chinese real estate market are currently considered to be the most relevant.

General inflation and falling incomes in real terms are continuing to exert a negative impact on consumer sentiment. A recovery in the consumer clothing market, which is important for Lenzing, will also depend on a further normalization of stock levels.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, a stable price trend is expected for the 2023/2024 harvest season.

Earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Revenue and earnings in the first quarter exceeded Lenzing’s expectations, despite the persistently difficult market. Lenzing is ahead of schedule with the implementation of its performance program. By appointing a separate Managing Board member, the projects identified to date are to be implemented even more rapidly, and new potentials are to be leveraged. Lenzing expects that these measures will increasingly contribute to further earnings improvement over the coming quarters compared to the first quarter of 2024.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2024 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

Meisheng Group has started up a new ANDRITZ needlepunch line at its facility in Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province, China. It is the third line supplied by ANDRITZ to the manufacturer of high-end nonwoven synthetic leather. This expansion will enable Meisheng to address the growing demand for synthetic suede in the automotive industry, particularly for New Energy Vehicles (NEVs).

The advanced line is equipped with a ProWid™ system that allows Meisheng to ensure an optimum web weight regularity across the full product width. As a result, the web distribution is improved, which reduces material consumption (fibers) and improves web weight evenness (CV%) – factors that are particularly important in synthetic leather manufacturing for automotive applications.

Stahl, a provider of speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates, has appointed former AkzoNobel CEO Thierry Vanlancker as a Non-Executive Director to its Board.

As a Non-Executive Board Director, Mr Vanlancker will provide valuable oversight, advice and strategic guidance to Stahl’s leadership, supporting the company’s position as a leader in speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates.

From 2017 to 2022 Mr Vanlancker served as CEO and Chairman of the Management Board of AkzoNobel NV. Prior to his tenure at Akzo he held several senior positions in Europe and the US at Dupont.

Mr Vanlancker also serves as Chairman of the Board at Sika and as Non Executive Board Director at Aliaxis and Etex. He brings over 30 years of experience in the  speciality coatings and chemicals industries and holds a Master's degree in chemical engineering from Ghent University.