From the Sector

Outgoing 2018-19 National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Marty Moran delivered the trade association’s 2019 State of the U.S. Textile Industry overview at NCTO’s 16th Annual Meeting on March 21st at the Capital Hilton in Washington, DC.

Mr. Moran’s speech outlined (1) U.S. textile supply chain economic, employment and trade data, (2) the 2019 policy priorities of domestic textile manufacturers, and (3) other NCTO activities.  

A link to his remarks as prepared for delivery are included in this press statement along with a link to a data infographic prepared by NCTO illustrating the current economic status of the U.S. textile industry.

Mr. Moran is CEO of Buhler Quality Yarns, Corp., a fine-count yarn supplier headquartered in Jefferson, Georgia with plants and/or offices in America, Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.  

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 594,147 in 2018.  
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $76.8 billion in 2018.  
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $30.1 billion in 2018.  
• Capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaled $2.0 billion in 2017, the last year for which data is available.

TINTEX is this year sole recipient of the unique and prestigious annual award from The “Instituto de Apoio às Pequenas e Médias Empresas e à Inovação” (IAPMEI). TINTEX has been selected in recognition of its pioneering, Naturally Advanced global leadership, and the company’s superior and responsible fabric making for a fashion system that is driven by investments, transparency and fully traceable innovation.

TINTEX is pleased to open its doors as the Naturally Advanced centre of excellence in the latest IAPMEI OPEN DAY for textile leaders, protaganists, media and customers to experience, understand and enjoy the unique achievements TINTEX offers to the contemporary Portuguese textiles industry . “We selected TINTEX to underline the importance of taking advantage of digitization and modernization at different levels in the textile industry being stunned by their commitment, shedding light on our territory’s most advanced and responsible processes and skills” José Marques dos Santos, president of IAPMEI.

In a fast moving globalized market, all companies must be able to adapt quickly and using innovation, creativity, and responsibility can help deliver successes. And here TINTEX can network between Technological Centers, Universities, and Knowledge Centers, as a strategic business and holistic imperative. And so sharing the Naturally Advanced strategy of TINTEX as a driver for change, IAPMEI recognizes this TINTEX OPEN DAY as a demonstration of practical market potential, and has partnered with CENTI  (Centre for Nanotechnology and Smart Materials the Institute for New Technologies) and CITEVE (an institution of national and international reference for the promotion of Innovation and Technological Development) as a way to guarantee this success.
 
Being able to drive material innovation, and to promote a new generation of sustainable values to contemporary fashion, active, sports and lingerie markets through responsible supply chains can be transformative for our future fashion systems, and TINTEX is proud to be selected as part of the Make Fashion Circular initiative by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, helping  to better activate these changes across the fashion industry for all to enjoy.

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a company that develops, designs and markets innovative digital printing solutions for the global printed textile industry, today announced it has received an order from DTG2Go, a Delta Apparel, Inc (NYSE American: DLA) company and leader in the direct-to-garment printing and fulfillment marketplace.  
 
The order follows several months of beta-testing of the recently released Kornit Atlas system by DTG2Go, during which Kornit was able to showcase the enhanced features of the most advanced industrial direct-to-garment solution available on the market.  Key features of the Atlas include high volume throughput, attractive cost of ownership and featuring the new NeoPigment™ Eco-Rapid inkset specifically designed for sustainability and retail-quality digital textile printing. Per the agreement, DTG2Go will take delivery of 10 Atlas systems in 2019, along with a significant number of HD upgrades for DTG2Go’s existing Kornit Avalanche systems.  
 
Kornit’s Chief Executive Officer, Ronen Samuel commented, “We are honored to expand our partnership with Delta Apparel as a key technology supplier as they expand their reach with digital printing. Delta’s unique platform strikes at the core of the changing needs in the retail supply chain, by offering a vertically-integrated digital print fulfillment model with quick delivery at an affordable price. The inclusion of the Atlas will greatly enhance the options and capabilities that Delta will be able to offer its customers. The all-new industrial Atlas has leading-edge technology with annual production capacity of over 350,000 impressions and optimizes production efficiency at the best cost of ownership available. We look forward to working collaboratively with Delta to deliver on this order and expand on this important relationship.

"Datacenter in a box" is the new powerful, flexible and secure IT infrastructure solution for the textile industry of the future

Remscheid/Berlin – Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment Industrie 4.0 solutions for the production of polyester, nylon and polypropylene are based on the digitalization of the production landscape and the intelligent processing of the flood of data generated in this way. In the future, the segment will offer its customers a new powerful, flexible and, above all, secure IT infrastructure. The "Datacenter in a box" was presented for the first time at the OpenStack Summit in Berlin, Germany, to a broad specialist audience. The compact datacenter works on the basis of the open operating system OpenStack, which enables virtual computing in a secure private cloud environment.

Externally, the datacenter looks unspectacular: The box contains standard hardware such as server rack, network components, batteries for reliability, monitoring sensors and a few more things. But what counts are the inner values. The Open Source software OpenStack consists of many different services and allows the virtualization of a large pool of computing, storage and network resources in a flexible, scalable private cloud. This brings two central advantages: On the one hand, virtual operation reduces costs and simplifies configuration, adaptation and expansion of the IT infrastructure today and tomorrow. On the other hand, long-cherished wishes for high data protection are fulfilled, because a private cloud maintains secure, highly encrypted data connections away from the World Wide Web.

"The functional diversity of a cloud, operation and hardware in one's own four walls at the same time – our customers immediately understood these advantages" reports Mario Arcidiacono, specialist for Business Intelligence & Data Warehouse at the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment. The IT architecture also guarantees infrastructure management without downtime, the system and virus protection are automatically kept up to date at all times. Another major advantage is the scalability of the hardware and software, which can be adapted to changing requirements.

OpenStack Summit: Project example with yarn manufacturer from Vietnam presented

With these trump cards and a project example, the Group segment confidently presented itself to a genuine specialist audience in mid-November. At this year's OpenStack Summit in Berlin, where thousands of cloud professionals met, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment CEO Georg Stausberg presented the customer installation at Century Synthetic Fibre Corporation, which supplies many well-known sporting goods manufacturers. The Vietnamese producer of high-quality yarns not only uses the new datacenter, but also the connection to the new "Common Service Platform (CSP)" of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment as well as an innovative new dashboard solution in prototype status. In this case, the digital instrument panel supports employee communication during shift changes in the yarn factory and introduces agile methods into the work process. The board visualizes the progress of central key figures and operating parameters from the current production process. Based on this, the employees of the successive shifts can now exchange important process and quality information and possible instructions for action within a few minutes in a structured stand-up meeting. "For the customer this means an immediate improvement of the processes, and he can significantly increase the efficiency and quality of his employees' work," assures Joerg Gross, Senior Manager in the IT-architecture team at the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

New IT-basis for the Plant Operation Center (POC) already successful established on the market

The fixed connection to the "Common Service Platform (CSP)" of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment plays a pioneering role in such solutions. This enables services and software updates to be provided smoothly, quickly and automatically. In this way, service applications can transform collected data into instructions or automated commands to secure and improve processes. For example, the secure availability of management solutions such as the Plant Operation Center (POC) for process monitoring can be increased and possible errors can be rectified very quickly. The new digital solution AIM4DTY (AIM = Artificial Intelligence Manufacturing), which was unveiled at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, China, a few weeks ago, can also be implemented in this way. AIM4DTY uses methods of machine learning, determines probable causes of errors in texturing and helps to improve quality during production.

Launch at ITMA Barcelona 2019

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment offers such remote-supported services on request. Data will therefore only be transferred to the “Common Service Platform (CSP)” with the customer's consent. In addition, all data is processed in accordance with the new European General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) and all other international data protection standards. Against this backdrop, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment plans to provide its datacenter with graded or customer-specific solutions: from complete service to provision with customer training for its own operations. After initial practical experience with several pilot customers, the segment intends to launch its offering on the market next year and officially present it to the textile industry at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain.

• Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC (‘Chemours’) have agreed to expand their long-term alliance in the area of durable water repellence (DWR).

Singapore – By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support and marketing, the expanded co-operation unlocks the full potential of the alliance to develop and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry.  This historical alliance that was established in the early 1990s has been at the forefront of delivering state-of-the-art solutions to the textile industry for durable water repellent effects. In addition to
fluorinated solutions, the expanded alliance will now be able to offer non-fluorinated alternatives as well. The alliance will cover different aspects of the value chain including research, marketing, technical support and manufacturing.

“Strengthening the partnership between Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours unlocks the full potential of both companies to shape technology and product offerings in sustainable durable water repellency. Our cooperation, which has stood the test of time, has clearly demonstrated that strong environmental credentials and performance can co-exist in equal measure. We are excited to move forward with a broader alliance as we strengthen our position as the industry leader in DWR textile solutions,” said Jay Naidu, Vice President, Strategic Marketing and Planning, Huntsman Textile Effects.

“Chemours is excited to expand our partnership with Huntsman Textile Effects. This partnership reinforces our commitment to take a leadership role in the innovation and development of more sustainable and high performing products that address the rapidly evolving needs of the textile industry and the consumers that use these products,” said Jesal Chopra, Vice President, Chemours Fluoropolymers.

Together, Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours have worked to lead the textile industry’s transition  from long-chain water repellent products to more environmentally friendly short-chain chemistry and, more recently, non-fluorinated chemistry. The collaboration has resulted in new, market-leading DWR solutions that deliver on performance and sustainability. Chemours introduced Teflon EcoElite™ with Zelan™ R3 technology in 2015, a renewably sourced, non-fluorinated water repellent finish. Containing 60% plant-based materials* and complying with all key industry standards, Zelan™ R3 repellent offers excellent water repellency and durability while preserving fabric breathability. It meets or exceeds performance levels possible with fluorinated technologies. Teflon™ Eco Dry with Zelan™ R2 PLUS technology, which compliments Teflon EcoElite™, was recently introduced. Zelan™ R2 PLUS contains 30% renewably sourced plant-based raw materials* and is focused on delivering a high level of durable water repellency for all substrates.

In 2017, Huntsman Textile Effects introduced PHOBOTEX® RSY non-fluorinated durable water repellent, which was developed to specifically meet extreme protection, comfort and durability requirements for both synthetic and cellulosic fibers, delivering an enhanced environmental profile for brands. PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent raises the bar in performance on synthetics, allowing brands to offer high-performance weather protection with an assurance of eco-friendly sustainability. Providing effective protection in extreme environments together with breathable comfort, PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent repulses rain, sleet, and snow, ideal for highperformance outerwear fabrics.

Both companies bring a rich and established heritage firmly centered on research and innovation. Through their expanded alliance, joint research and development efforts in DWR enable Huntsman and Chemours to stay at the forefront of industry trends and regulatory changes for a more sustainable textile industry.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, recently entered in a partnership with Carlin, the world’s very first trend forecasting agency founded in 1947, aiming to promote the use of Archroma’s exclusive color inspiration tools to fashion designers and stylists in France.

Under the terms of the new partnership, Carlin will use the ‘Color Atlas by Archroma®’ color references in the Carlin’s 16 publications per year, including the InMouv trend books. Carlin will also use the Color Atlas during its color workshops, and Carlin and Archroma will organize regular conferences and events for fashion brands in major French cities, including Paris.
The partnership agreement also appoints Carlin as Archroma’s sales agent for its color management products in France, including the Color Atlas by Archroma® color library and related tools. Archroma’s color management services will continue to be sold through the existing channels.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® uses complementary tools to enhance creative possibilities for designers and brands. It incorporates the six-volume ‘Color Atlas’ Library, with over 4,300 colors on cotton poplin; the two-volume ‘Color Atlas Compact’ for improved portability; and the ‘Color Atlas Online’ which enables you to take an image with your smartphone and identify the closest Color Atlas shades.
“Just like designers, brands, retailers, manufacturers and Carlin, we are passionate about color trends,” explains Chris Hipps, Global Director of Archroma Color Management Services. “We redefined the concept of a color library for the textile industry with our Color Atlas, an essential and inspirational reference that gives creatives options that they had never dreamed of. With our new partnership with Carlin we’ll be able to share our Color Atlas and our passion for color with a new audience.”

“Carlin is at the forefront of trend forecasting,” explains Edouard Keller, Head of International Sales, Carlin. “And that includes the use of color. Archroma offers a suite of services and tools that are both practical and instantly available for our clients; this is what makes their solution so attractive to us. Our partnership with Archroma will empower us to share the advanced Color Atlas and associated tools with creatives throughout France, helping them to unlock their creativity with color.”

At Kingpins Amsterdam, RUDOLF GROUP launches a selection of chemical auxiliaries for fashion and function as well their new HUB 1922.
The RUDOLF GROUP, not completely new to garment and denim finishing, decides to take the first steps of what will be a long and exciting journey in the field. In order to shorten the distance with both manufacturers and apparel brands and retailers it deploys two synergic initiatives:

• A refined selection of chemicals auxiliaries targeting garment finishing and delivering, in addition to current aesthetics, sophisticated functionalities that take denim to the next level in terms of both performance and enhanced quality.
• The launch of a new project that, combining German engineering and Italian style, provides solutions at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality. The project, called HUB 1922, introduces elements of unorthodox diversity and fosters collaborative environments that can be truly disruptive.

The word HUB is evocative of the main part of something where there is most activity, whereas the number, 1922, is the year of foundation of the RUDOLF GROUP and therefore symbol of heritage, tradition and significant experience. Ultimately, HUB 1922 wants to be the unmatched one-stop shopping for fashion and function, innovation and creativity in garment processing. A hub that enables continuous, synergetic, and powerful collaboration with brands and retailers to deliver disruptive innovations in the global markets.

It introduces functional chemistry in an universe that is almost entirely driven by aesthetics and the extension to other materials and product categories (such as outdoor apparel and performance wear), of knowledge and techniques developed for denim over the past 50 years. Very aware of its status of rookie and yet very determined, the project HUB 1922 begins exploring through concepts and values rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true responsibility, technical innovation and fresh creativity.
At Kingpins Amsterdam, HUB 1922 will present 3 concepts rooted in RUDOLF’s sophisticated and conscious chemistry:

• ODYSSEY: a voyage through textures and innovation, softness, comfort and signature handfeels.
• SHELTER: performance inspired by natural models for urban protection and for much reduced domestic washing.
• MEMOFLEX: A modern-day miracle preventing denim from sagging and bagging. A truly denim Botox that shows improved quality on many stretch fabrics.

Since when it was founded, almost 100 years ago, RUDOLF GROUP’s secret of success is being big enough to matter, small enough to care. Captured in this definition are an obvious desire to play a meaningful role in the textile industry and an equally palpable vocation to customer service.

Alberto de Conti, Head of Rudolf Fashion Division: “Every generation has their time to make a mark on the world. Considering the environmental emergencies in garment production and the lack of real innovation on the retail shelves, for the current generation of companies active in garment finishing that time is now.”

RUDOLF GROUP acknowledges therefore that there is an additional opportunity to responsibly further redefine the future and turns their sizeable R&D power towards refining their approach to what is fashion quintessential staple: garment and denim finishing. Through a renewed, highly responsible involvement in garment finishing and with the introduction of HUB 1922, the RUDOLF GROUP wants to send out a message of true optimism. It is about showing the entire industry that there is a blank canvas ahead and tangible difference can be made.

Huntsman Corporation (NYSE: HUN) is pleased to announce that the Patent Re-examination Board of the State Intellectual Property Office, China (PRB) upheld Huntsman’s Chinese Patents Nos. ZL00106403.7 and ZL200480003051.4.  These patents were contested by Shaoxing Bangyi Chemical Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. By its ruling, the PRB rejected the positions of the petitioners and confirmed that Huntsman’s patented technology, which is used in Huntsman’s NOVACRON® Super Black G and NOVACRON® Super Black R dyes, is Huntsman’s valuable innovation for producing deep black shades.

Huntsman sued Jiangsu Jinji Industrial Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. for infringing the above mentioned Chinese Patents at the Beijing Intellectual Property Court by using Huntsman’s patented technology in six black dyestuff products. Huntsman is seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement.  Huntsman is also seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement in a separate lawsuit against Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Keyong Chemical Co., Ltd., and Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. This matter is currently being heard before the High People's Court, Shanghai.  In earlier decisions, both the Shanghai Intermediate People’s Court and the Shanghai High People’s Court ruled that Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. had infringed Huntsman’s Chinese Patent No. ZL00106403.7 by manufacturing and selling Colvazol Super Black LC-G and Colvazol Super Black LC-R dyes.

Rohit Aggarwal, President of Huntsman Textile Effects said: “We are very pleased with the PRB’s decision which demonstrates the State Intellectual Property Office’s commitment to steadfastly uphold intellectual property rights in China which protect valuable and advanced technology. This encourages companies like Huntsman to continue to invest in research and development in our aim to bring cutting-edge innovation to the textile industry. Huntsman will vigorously pursue those who are infringing our intellectual property rights to stop the unlawful infringement and pursue full compensation for our losses”.

Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines received the Textile Industry Award during the award ceremony of the “Trophées de l’Industrie des Hauts-de-France” (Trophies of the Industries of Hauts-de-France) which is hosted each year by the Société Industrielle du Nord. These trophies reward companies who are selected by trade and pooling associations based on their exemplary performance, innovations and achievements in an area of specialty which is different each year.

Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines (IFFC), a subsidiary of the Belgian Beaulieu International Group of companies, announced today that it was awarded the Textile Industry Award, which is one of the Trophies of the Industries of Hauts-de-France. The award ceremony took place on the 29th of March of this year at the Cité des Échanges of Marcq en Baroeul, France. Michiel Leys, Manufacturing Manager for Europe and General Manager of the production site, and Loïc Derôme, Operations Manager at IFCC, attended the ceremony and received the prize in person.

As part of the Industry Week, the ceremony is each year a time of exchange, optimism and encouragement to flagship companies of the industrial trades.
Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines’ production site has been based in the North since 1993 and manufactures high quality polypropylene and polyamid based textured yarns for applications in the automotive, and commercial and residential building sectors. “We regularly invest in technology on the one hand, and in safety, security and working conditions on the other”, says Loïc Derôme, Operations Manager at IFCC. “For the past two years, we have invested around for million euros and, this year, we are in the on-going process of further developing our manufacturing resources to meet the technical needs of the market and to increase the safety of our site.”

“We have selected IFCC because of its significant surface, but also because it is a French company belonging to a Belgian group, who decided to build on France as a country”, adds Eric Mezin, Délégué Général UIT Nord. Such attributes as open-mindedness, strong focus on sustainable development and effective communication efforts in view of attracting new talents, including among older, more experienced people, are but a few of the multiple aspects that accounts for the election of IFFC as an award-winner.

The DyStar® Group recently launched a new concept of their resource saving module – Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous.

Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous is a modified pad-dry-thermosol-pad-steam dyeing process for open width PES/CO fabrics. In contrast to the standard PDTPS process, Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous does not require a separate reduction clearing process and thus saves more than 40% chemicals, water and energy. This effect is obtained by using a special dye choice of Dianix® XF/XF2 and SF disperse dyes in combination with selected Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes and a modified steaming and wash-off process with Sera® auxiliaries.

The Cadira concepts considerably reduce process costs, water, waste and energy consumption and machine utilization. Cadira supports Brands & Retailers and their production partners in their effort to save valuable resources and to reduce the carbon footprint of their textile goods.

The first Cadira module was developed in 2016. Since then DyStar has launched Cadira concepts for various substrates and applications. So far, the following Cadira concepts are available.

Cadira Polyester
Cadira Recycled Polyester
Cadira Vat
Cadira Reactive
Cadira Procion PX
Cadira Wool
Cadira Denim

DyStar will continue their effort to support the textile industry to reduce the environmental footprint.

About DyStar
DyStar® Group is a solution provider, offering customers across the globe a complete range of colorants, auxiliaries and services. The DyStar Group has offices, competence centers, agencies and production plants in over 50 countries to ensure the availability of expertise in all important markets. With a heritage of more than a century of product development and innovation for the textile and leather industry, DyStar has developed into new markets and now in addition serves the paper, plastic and many other specialty chemical industries.

DyStar’s service division assist brands & retailers and their industry partners from their first inspiration throughout the entire supply chain to ensure that they meet stringent quality and ecological specifications, reduce costs and shorten lead times. The service division offers state of the art color communication through CSI, textile and ecology testing through Texanlab, ecology and environmental advice, supply chain auditing and consulting for RSL compliant sustainable processes through Sustainable Textile Solutions programs.

The DyStar econfidence® program provides assurance that provided products comply with legal, voluntary and brand & retailer RSL (Restricted Substance List) requirements. It is an assurance that our products are in compliance with chemical and environmental legislation in each market in which they are sold.
Visit www.DyStar.com for more information.