From the Sector

The textile industry, one of the major industrial sectors worldwide, is going through a significant revolution, with changes taking place in various sections of textile processing. Biotechnology and biomimicry, for example, are continuously playing an important role in redefining the influence of the textile industry on society, and so is progress made in auxiliary chemistry, with advances investigated and then applied in almost every section of textile processing.  The outcome is amazingly promising.

Modern, real science is inextricably intertwined with environmental consciousness and they are definitely not mutually exclusive.

At RUDOLF GROUP modern, real science means pushing R&D so to constantly explore new technology and innovations that help transform the textile and fashion industries. We work to reduce the overall dependency on traditional and virgin resources.  Getting textile manufacturers as well as brand and retailers on board is key to achieve real change. By 2030 we aim for a significant fraction of our products to be either sourced through paths alternative to the traditional petrochemicals, or by upcycling waste and/or byproducts from other industries.

“This is the kind of genuine, tangible, environmental consciousness that truly defines us and that entails that RUDOLF GROUP has a responsibility for the needs of society as a whole.” Said Alberto De Conti, Head of Rudolf Fashion Division “We have a maniacal attention to the environmental impact of our operations and products. We have truly embedded in ourselves the notion that “sustainability” is a key issue and critical to the long-term survival of our company and of society at large. “

The combination of modern, real science and environmental consciousness leads to what RUDOLF GROUP call aspirational chemistry something unique and something that positions us as shining example and guiding light throughout the industry. That is, in fact, BETTER CHEMISTRY.

Two are the innovations rooted in aspirational chemistry that RUDOLF HUB1922 presents. The first one is our WASHLESS technology and the second one is a brand new launch: LASER SMOOTHER, which supports laser technology and helps creating much better denim looks.

WASHLESS

HUB1922 WASHLESS, which can be applied to both denim and non-denim, is the simultaneous application of
-    proprietary fluorine-free DWR (Durable Water Resistance) based on biomimicry to repel dirt
-    anti-microbial, anti-bacteria and anti-viral, non-migrating chemistry to stop body odour.
The combination of the 2 translates into garments that don’t require to be washed as much.

Life cycle assessment studies on clothes, detergents and washing machines show that home laundering is always the most energy‐demanding period during these products' life cycle, even higher than production or transportation phases.

“WASHLESS aims at changing consumer habits in clothing maintenance to a more environmentally friendly direction and represents a change that is the most feasible and efficient. Making washing machines obsolete is impossible, but even though the technologies in clothes cleaning have improved greatly, the washing frequency has not been reduced. We own more and more clothing and wash it more frequently. This increased amount of washing counteracts the technological improvements in home laundry. “ said De Conti.

It is only by understanding the climate change impact associated with home laundering that product innovations and consumer education can be explored. Studies consistently show that a carbon dioxide reduction of 105 MT and electricity savings of 142 thousand GWh can be obtained by reducing home laundering, on average, by 1/3. This is roughly equivalent to removing 12% of the 140 M passenger cars in the US, or taking 23 coal power plants off the grid. In addition, more than 60% of water consumed while laundering (2,000 billion liters) can be reduced through these strategies.

LASER SMOOTHER

Laser denim is the current dominant technology available to the denim industry to create locally abraded areas, vintage effects, whiskers, patterns, patches, and even intentional holes and tears in a garment. Laser technology uses less water, harmful chemicals (such as potassium permanganate) and energy to create a wide variety of denim looks.

However, laser is not always able to produce the desired look, on the desired fabric, in the desired time. Therefore, chemical companies have been developing laser boosters that can be pre-applied to the garments in order to intensify the effect of the laser to mimic heavier bleaching applications. Unfortunately, laser boosters can create blurred images where the definition is lower and the overall image less natural.

The brand new RUDOLF HUB1922 LASER SMOOTHER is an all-in-one formulation, very easy to pre-apply to garments before laser burning and that return a very natural image which is very similar to the highly desirable hand scraping. Laser smoother can be applied by traditional exhaust or through nebulization and it dries at normal temperature in normal tumble driers.  Advantages of LASER PRIMER are:

•    Remarkable enhancement of the fabric’s characteristics (heightening of material)
•    Overall effect much more natural and similar to manual scraping (craftsmanship dimension)
•    Reduced required laser power to achieve the wanted effect (conspicuous energy saving)
•    A faster laser burning process (significant time saving, depending on the final effect)
•    Any other chemical spray is not required (environmental friendliness)
•    Reduced cost compared to other solution (financial viability)

Two ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 looks make their debut at the Graduate Fashion Foundation, part of London Fashion Week, a springboard for new talent striving to bridge the gap between education and industry.

Following an unprecedented academic year, GFF celebrates how the Class of 2020 have adapted and overcome adversity to complete their degrees across 26 fashion specialisms, from Design and Knitwear to Comms, Marketing and Business. London, 17-22 September – To bring together fashion educators and industry leaders and to support their graduates to reach their full potential once they have graduated: this has always been GFF’s main goal for the past 28 years. Now more than ever, GFF continues in its long-standing commitment to share good practice and knowledge and to inspire students to become innovators, environmental leaders, employees, and educators while promoting cultural diversity and inclusivity within an international platform – very much in keeping with ISKO I-SKOOL™ values and approach which resonate throughout the contest’s Denim Awards.

Designers Kotryna Adomaityte and Isabel Hambly from Nottingham Trent University were 2 of the 9 winners of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 Awards, announced in a phygital ceremony held on July 22. The two students were invited to showcase their winning creations at GFF. Kotryna, winner of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ PERICOLO Award by Cadica Group, impressed the audience with her “Wild West Denim” look to London at the GFF Showroom.

Isabel Hambly, winner of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ Best Marketable Product, stole the show with her “Women at war” outfit which was displayed at the Catwalk Show, live-streamed from Samsung KX on September 22. That two of ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 winners and finalists were part of this important event is proof of the significant role the contest – developed and supported by ISKO – plays in nurturing and championing talent and creativity. This edition’s main concept was world’s citizenship, with the Creative Theme “North, East, South, West – connected by one planet”. The twenty shortlisted finalists were asked to dig into their roots and to approach different cultures, defining and tracking down the geography of the world connecting them through responsibility. In addition to exploring the planet both locally and globally, they were also required to take into account the product life cycle of their outfits – featuring a 5-pocket jeans to interpret their view on the “local” concept and two Denim Show Pieces to reflect their worldwide influences and topics of interest. These were made with top ISKO™ denim fabrics, meeting the designers’ needs and providing a strong sustainable ingredient.

“We are really proud that two of our winners made it to GFF, with which we have many values in common – it marks another important step in their journey” said ISKO Senior Executive ISKO I-SKOOL™ Project Irem Orhun. “All of this goes to show how ISKO I-SKOOL™ plays a fundamental role in providing the foundation to enter the industry more aware of your skills and capabilities.”

Messe Frankfurt India has announced new dates for the Mumbai edition of Screen Print India - the leading trade fair for screen, textile, sublimation and digital printing technologies The exhibition will be held in parallel with Gartex Texprocess India, from 19 – 21 March 2021 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai. With the gradual re-opening of commercial activities and businesses, the co-located fairs will enable the industry to channel their efforts back towards business development and cater to the needs of screen printing, textile and garment manufacturing industry players as it gears up to bring the production and manufacturing value chain under one roof.
 
While the focus segments under Gartex Texprocess India will draw attention to innovations in garmenting & apparel machinery, the product launches and live demos at Screen Print India will enable business visitors and traders to track technological advances in digital textile and screen-printing technologies. The secure, business-focused ambience will enable both printing and textile sector players to showcase, source and strengthen their supply chains and keep pace with the shifting demand for screen printing, textile printing, digital and sublimation technologies across other sectors.
 
Screen Print India will also host a series of sessions on processes and innovations related to the graphics industry. Another key highlight of this successful trade fair is the Screen Print Excellence Awards that upholds a strong tradition of honouring technology inventors and trailblazers within the screen-printing industry. With this in mind, the Mumbai edition will curate a special “SPI Gallery” to showcase award winning pieces of screen-printing excellence.

The conference on sustainability in production, trade and consumption will take a second round: On March 24, 2020, the Weser-Kurier’s conference SUSTAIN will take place in the run-up to the International Cotton Conference once more. The Bremen Cotton Exchange is again cooperating partner of this event. The theme “City and Change – the Future of the Textile Retail Trade” is on focus this year.

Shirt and trpousers or blouse and skirt – clothing is an instrument of expression, a social must and a major factor of consumption. Internet and debates on climate change have changed the indicators. On the one hand, textile online trade is booming, while local stores have come under pressure to an increasing degree and cities are on the search for new ideas. On the other hand, consumers increasingly ask for products considering aspects of fairness and ecology during production. Manufacturers and stores have to react. These subjects are on focus during the Sustain that takes place on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 in Bremen in the Glocke.

Exciting keynote speakers and panel guest from fashion, science and the textile industry
Sustain will feature outstanding speakers from the economy, politics and society discussing for instance the possibilities of new techniques in stationary retail trade, the compatibility of fair production with business interests of manufacturers as well as the question whether consumers are willing to pay the additional costs of sustainability. These are themes that influence the vitality of the cities just as the purchase decisions of the consumers.

Prof. Dr Niko Paech, Professor of Economics, Wolfgang Krogmann, Advisory Director Primark, Urs-Stefan Kinting, Managing Partner of the Zero Group, Model & TV Presenter Alena Gerber, Rolf Heimann, CEO Hessnatur Stiftung, Kai Falk, Managing Director Communication of the German retail association Handelsverband Deutschland and many others confirmed their participation.

Focus on Sustainability and Climate Change

Passion for Cotton: The 35th International Cotton Conference Bremen starts on 25 March in the Hanseatic city’s historic Town Hall. But before subject-specific questions are discussed in depth in the individual sessions, the concise and inspiring keynotes by leading business experts from science and industry will draw attention to the current trends and challenges in the industry at the start of the conference. A large part of the presentations is shaped by the current discussion on environmental and sustainability issues and the resulting consequences for the global economy.

Climate Change and Sustainability

“Climate change - a storm in a teacup?” asks Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee, Washington D.C., USA, in a provocative speech. The aim of his presentation is to work out the challenges of climate change especially for agriculture and cotton production. This should form the basis for later discussion on concrete approaches and solutions within the cotton community.

With his lecture “The HUGO BOSS sustainability programme ... and what our customer has to do with it” Andreas Streubig, Director of Global Sustainability at Hugo Boss AG, Metzingen, Germany, rolls up the textile value chain from a different angle, starting at the consumer level. As a representative of a premium brand for women's and men's clothing, Streubig discusses sustainability as a strategic element of the corporate strategy and provides information on how elements of the strategy are being implemented at Hugo Boss.

Rüdiger Senft, Head of Sustainability at Commerzbank, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, looks at the changing role of banks in financing the cotton market. In addition to a general introduction to the topic of sustainability and banking regulation, Senft's presentation deals with the financing of the cotton trade from a social and ecological point of view.
The opening session on 25 March is hosted by Bill Ballenden, founder and owner of Dragontree, Swindon, UK, an online auction platform for the cotton trade. As a former cotton manager for Louis Dreyfus in Europe and Asia, Bill Ballenden has many years of experience in the industry.

Cross-Cutting Issues: Digitalisation, Gender, Value Chains

The subsequent session in the conference programme with the headline “A Wider View” is devoted to currently defining trends and important cross-cutting issues in the industry. This goes far beyond classic cotton themes.

A lecture by Mark Messura, Senior Vice President, Global Supply Chain Marketing for Cotton Incorporated, Cary, North Carolina, deals with the role of cotton in an increasingly digitally controlled supply chain. Significant keywords here are faster delivery times, vertical integration, transparency and traceability.

The presentation by Roger Gilmartin, Managing Director of Tri-Blend Consulting, Charlotte, USA, entitled “The secret recipe for timely, cost-optimised and high-quality cotton clothing” promises exciting and enlightening insights. Tri-Blend Consulting conducts studies on the performance of different cotton varieties during the entire consumption process to the finished yarn and evaluates them from an economic point of view.

Amy Jackson, from the Better Cotton Initiative, London, UK, presents ICA Liverpool's “Women in Cotton” initiative. With this commitment, the initiative aims to increase the influence of women in the cotton industry and give them a stronger voice, for example by building networks in cooperation.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi, International Strategic Management Consultant at the Gherzi Textile Organisation, Switzerland, gives an insight into the current development of the value chain for cotton, textiles and clothing in Africa. Looking ahead to the coming decades, also in view of population growth, Africa is seen as having a high potential for building economic structures to improve income and prosperity.

Thomas Schneider, Professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Berlin and active in the field of production planning and control, textile materials and materials testing will host the session. A leading light in his field, Thomas Schneider has more than 30 years of experience in scientific and application-oriented research in the textile and fibre sector, including at the Fibre Institute Bremen e.V.

At the Shanghaitex trade fair Mayer & Cie. China (MCN) exhibited its new machine for manufacturing three-thread fleece. The MFC 3.2 is the first in-house development by the German circular knitting machine manufacturer’s Chinese subsidiary. It produces light to heavy linings and is specially geared to processing polyester yarn. The MFC 3.2 will be available from spring 2020; the material it produces is used in sports- and leisurewear.

“Three-thread fleece linings are popular all over the world,” says Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s technical director, “albeit with important regional differences. In Europe and America customers appreciate heavier, warm cotton fabrics, whereas in Asia light, fluffy fabrics made of mixed synthetic fibres are preferred. That is why the MFC 3.2 is a major addition to our Chinese portfolio.“

MFC 3.2: Tried and trusted basis, market-specific alignment
The new Chinese three-thread fleece machine is based on the established Mayer & Cie. MBF 3.2, the qualities of which deliver the goods in the MFC 3.2. They include the high quality of material on both sides of the fabric and the production of challenging weaves. At the same time, the Chinese Mayer & Cie. team attached importance to catering for local requirements, first and foremost processing polyester yarns. Thanks to cam parts developed in-house the new machine performs these tasks reliably and efficiently. At up to 30 rpm on a 30-inch diameter cylinder the MFC 3.2 produces three-thread fleece for sports- and leisurewear.

The MFC 3.2 is more than a three-thread fleece machine, however. A conversion kit transforms it into the MSC 3.2 II, the most popular machine in Mayer & Cie. China’s portfolio. The conversion works in both directions, which further upgrades the single jersey machine because “in the highly saturated Chinese single jersey market the fact that the MSC 3.2 II can be converted into a threethread fleece machine is an important selling point,” Managing Director Mayer notes.

Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network announces commitment to the Sustainable Development Goals in global collaboration with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships to integrate the Sustainable Development Goals into over 50 leading international textile trade fairs attracting more than 22,000 companies and over half a million trade visitors annually.

In January 2019 the Sustainable Development Goals were introduced to a Messe Frankfurt event for the first time during the world's leading platform for sustainable fashion, Neonyt, in Berlin as part of Berlin Fashion Week, where the Conscious Fashion Campaign was presented.

The initiative, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, engages global industry events to commit to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals and champions fashion as an influential sector to address the world’s most pressing issues. The campaign is dedicated to driving change through advocacy, education and engagement

Special features: over 30 top clients at a joint stand and a special exhibition highlighting trendsetting textile concepts for the contract market

Trevira, which manufactures high-quality, flame retardant polyester fibres, will be repeating its successful joint booth concept at the upcoming Heimtextil fair, due to take place from 7-10 January 2020 in Frankfurt. Together with 32 of its major customers, Trevira will be located on a stand of over 2000 msq in Hall 4.2.

The participants of the Trevira CS joint stand will cover the entire textile value chain: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor. Trevira’s customers will present their latest Trevira CS products for home and contract textiles at individual stands, demonstrating their contribution to the value chain. This year, Trevira welcomes a new partner to its Heimtextil stand, design and engineering specialist ima-tuve.

“We’re excited that our joint fair booth has proved to be so popular and that we are increasing the number of Trevira CS customers joining us for Heimtextil year on year. This means that we can once again look forward to displaying the extensive range of possibilities and applications available in Trevira CS,” said Trevira CEO Klaus Holz.

Trevira’s joint booth, which will be situated in Hall 4.2, immediately next to the Messe Frankfurt exhibition “Interior. Architecture. Hospitality”, will also feature a special showcase, “Textile Future by Trevira CS” especially for the contract market. To curate this special display, Trevira is proud to have secured a collaborative partnership with renowned Berlin design company studio aisslinger. The studio is known for its outstanding work in experimental and product design, innovative materials and architectural concepts.  As a designer, studio founder Werner Aisslinger is particularly interested in how the newest technologies and unusual materials can be integrated into product design. Besides a focus on furniture, his most recent projects include interior design concepts for hotels and workspaces.

SEEK is edgy, clear and unpolished. It’s all about cool statement designs, the new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show for the fashion community that knows the facts, prompts sales and meets the needs of the new generation of decision-makers. Compared to other trade shows, SEEK is particularly unconventional and the antidote to boring.

At the start of the season in January SEEK will be showcasing one thing more than anything – relevance. SEEK epitomises values like honesty, loyalty, consciousness of quality, local proximity; and the brands that exhibit at SEEK are on exactly the same page. The BRIGHT brands relevant to retail are now fully integrated.

FOCUS TOPICS

• Responsible Future
  Sustainability is part of SEEK’s DNA and has always informed how the team and community operate. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated, Sandqvist and Kings of Indigo.
  The SEEK team places great value on personal contact with customers and puts a great deal of love into the details and in honest collaboration with all stakeholders.

• Retail Experiences
  There is no other comparable brand portfolio at any other trade show. SEEK’s unique brand mix is becoming even more dynamic, reflecting retail concepts that have had international success. In the world’s most in-demand stores, such as End Clothing (London), Voo Store (Berlin) and Caliroots (Stockholm), EUR 500 designs are placed next to EUR 50 t-shirts and bought by the same customers. That’s the status quo – end consumers decide on and bring the range to life

• #FASHIONTECH at SEEK
  Digitalisation remains one of the most important topics in the industry. For this and other reasons, formats of #FASHIONTECH will take place at SEEK. For the first time, topics relevant to SEEK will be initiated in the style of talks and masterclasses at #FASHIONTECH. SEEK is taking a fundamental look at topics such as Brand Building, Social Media and Gaming.

   

Celebrating 25 years as Asia’s leading trade fair for the interior textiles industry, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles opened its doors from 28 – 31 August. Covering seven halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Center, around 1,150 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions displayed their latest products and technologies for the home and contract textiles sectors (2018: 1,091).

Exhibitor highlights from 2019

•    Country and region pavilions from Belgium, Pakistan, Taiwan and Turkey
•    Expanded finished products zone: more sourcing options were available in hall 8.1 this year for finished products and a range of home décor items.
•    Finished curtain zone located in the North Hall
•    Bed, bath, kitchen and table: suppliers from China were joined by exhibitors from Australia, Austria, Denmark, Hungary, Japan and elsewhere in these product categories.
•    Whole-home and editor zones: buyers could source the latest luxury branded products and gain decoration concept inspiration in these high-end zones.
•    Textile design zone: 20 design studios from 12 countries including China, Finland, France, India, Japan, Korea, the Netherlands, Portugal, Switzerland and the UK showcased their avant-garde collections.